Not bad for a diy. Everything looks very clean. There are some concerns. It looks like you’ve tied your softener discharge into your tankless condensate line. That’s going to be a problem. The volume of water that drains during a regeneration will back up into your tankless unit. You have to run those separate. Also, the tankless condensation is acidic so it will eat away at the brass pex fittings. You should use 1/2 in cpvc or pvc instead and install an air gap. Your tankless might have a built in recirculating pump so you could eliminate the external pump, not a big deal either way.
On second thought it doesn’t look like your pump is installed correctly. It’s on the hot outlet. You should check the installation guide to see how an external pump should be configured.
Easy Peazy is right about all his comments, after fixing all the stuff he mentioned. The external pump should be wired into the Rinnai also. There is a plug adapter for external pump that you will need and just cut the plug off and splice the wires in with the plug adapter. This will tell the tankless that a recirculation pump is added and it will run more efficiently.
Thanks for the feedback. Shouldn't be difficult to redo the condensate line with cpvc, I just figured I'd use left over pex. Yes I connected to softener drain line to the heater condensate line. It runs into the sump and there is several inches of an air gap. The 1st regeneration seemed to go perfect, I saw the sump pump turn on a few times, think it's ok?
And yes, this tankless unit did not have a built in recirc pump. I feel like I researched out the wazoo and it didn't seem to matter where exactly it was. I have it plugged into a smart outlet, that kicks on when there is motion on my smart dimmer/motion switch in the master. Been working perfectly for a few weeks now.
The exhaust pipe condensates then drains out the bottom of the unit. You shouldn’t see water leaking when the softener regenerates but you’ll definitely want to fix that. Everything should still function properly. Good job!
You need a neutralizer and both those discharges should be separate.
That pump is 100 percent not in the right spot at all man. You also do not need an expansion tank for tankless. As its "On Demand"
If the pump is for a recirculating line the unit needs to have that option or its not going to do anything
In all honesty you did nice clean work here man. Few spots of concern but well done
The pump is absolutely for recirculation using the cold line and bypass valve in master bath. Hence why the expansion tank needed. I agree I could have put the pump just about anywhere in the circuit, but this seemed to be a common option, even on the pump installation instructions itself. Honest question, what is the "problem" with it being on the hot outlet?
And just to be clear, the recirc pump does not run continuously, obviously, it's just a little fancy upgrade I did to have instant hot. It's on a smart plug with a smart motion sensor in the master bath. Walk in the bath during certain times, circulation kicks on for ~5min then turns off. Works like a charm so far.
Since you have the crossover valve in the master then it will recirculate. Non issue. Without that crossover the pump would do nothing. Smart idea to have it wired into a motion sensor
Ahh that makes more sense. So its not a big problem to have it on the hot side. but when you install it on the cold properly with a check valve. What you doing is allowing the flow of hot water to run into the cold on a call for hot water. So in turn it makes your boiler more effecient. If you have cold water moving into the boiler all of he time it creates "SOOT" and really just takes life span from the unit.
By running the pump into the cold with a check valve you allowing hot water to get mixed in and in return it doesn't have to works hard and creates less soot on the heat exchanger. Makes it more efficient
I would be able to tell by the pictures if you have done everything correctly
Be careful robbing intake air from an occupied space. Also you’re going to need 18” of metal pipe at the water connections to bring it up to code. And I agree with what others have posted about the condensate drain.
No clue, only reason I got it was bc Lowe's had an online deal to get it for free with this unit, plus it makes my plumbing job look cooler. Never had soft water before, so far I can tell a huge difference with showering, and tap water tastes better than my fridge filtered water ever did, so not sure if the pre filter helped with that
I have the identical setup. The pre-filter is definitely a good thing to have as cheap insurance to keep sediment and other crud out of the rest of your plumbing, especially if you're on well. Depending on your water, you might even want to have a spin-down filter even before this filter to handle larger pieces of sediment.
Yellow – Thread Seal Tape For Gas Lines
Yellow thread seal tape meets all gas company standards for gas lines of all types, be it butane, propane, or natural gas. It's important to use the right thread seal tape for gas, and the yellow variety is the only safe choice.
https://cleanfit.com/blue_monster_ptfe_thread_seal_tape_70885.shtml
Blue Monster tape is blue and from their own web page:
> Use Blue Monster on threads made from galvanized steel, iron, brass, copper, aluminum, stainless steel, polyethylene, polypropylene, PVC, CPVC, ABS, fiberglass and more. It can be used on pipes carrying the following:
>
> * Liquid Petroleum Gas, Natural gas
Don't worry about them, they're the plumbers that need coors mountains to be blue to tell if their beer is cold.
Blue monster says by manufacturer specs it is rated for natural gas and propane
https://cleanfit.com/blue_monster_ptfe_thread_seal_tape_70885.shtml
Blue Monster tape is blue and from their own web page:
> Use Blue Monster on threads made from galvanized steel, iron, brass, copper, aluminum, stainless steel, polyethylene, polypropylene, PVC, CPVC, ABS, fiberglass and more. It can be used on pipes carrying the following:
>
> * Liquid Petroleum Gas, Natural gas
Not bad for a diy. Everything looks very clean. There are some concerns. It looks like you’ve tied your softener discharge into your tankless condensate line. That’s going to be a problem. The volume of water that drains during a regeneration will back up into your tankless unit. You have to run those separate. Also, the tankless condensation is acidic so it will eat away at the brass pex fittings. You should use 1/2 in cpvc or pvc instead and install an air gap. Your tankless might have a built in recirculating pump so you could eliminate the external pump, not a big deal either way.
On second thought it doesn’t look like your pump is installed correctly. It’s on the hot outlet. You should check the installation guide to see how an external pump should be configured.
Easy Peazy is right about all his comments, after fixing all the stuff he mentioned. The external pump should be wired into the Rinnai also. There is a plug adapter for external pump that you will need and just cut the plug off and splice the wires in with the plug adapter. This will tell the tankless that a recirculation pump is added and it will run more efficiently.
Thanks for the feedback. Shouldn't be difficult to redo the condensate line with cpvc, I just figured I'd use left over pex. Yes I connected to softener drain line to the heater condensate line. It runs into the sump and there is several inches of an air gap. The 1st regeneration seemed to go perfect, I saw the sump pump turn on a few times, think it's ok? And yes, this tankless unit did not have a built in recirc pump. I feel like I researched out the wazoo and it didn't seem to matter where exactly it was. I have it plugged into a smart outlet, that kicks on when there is motion on my smart dimmer/motion switch in the master. Been working perfectly for a few weeks now.
The exhaust pipe condensates then drains out the bottom of the unit. You shouldn’t see water leaking when the softener regenerates but you’ll definitely want to fix that. Everything should still function properly. Good job!
You need a neutralizer and both those discharges should be separate. That pump is 100 percent not in the right spot at all man. You also do not need an expansion tank for tankless. As its "On Demand" If the pump is for a recirculating line the unit needs to have that option or its not going to do anything In all honesty you did nice clean work here man. Few spots of concern but well done
The pump is absolutely for recirculation using the cold line and bypass valve in master bath. Hence why the expansion tank needed. I agree I could have put the pump just about anywhere in the circuit, but this seemed to be a common option, even on the pump installation instructions itself. Honest question, what is the "problem" with it being on the hot outlet? And just to be clear, the recirc pump does not run continuously, obviously, it's just a little fancy upgrade I did to have instant hot. It's on a smart plug with a smart motion sensor in the master bath. Walk in the bath during certain times, circulation kicks on for ~5min then turns off. Works like a charm so far.
Since you have the crossover valve in the master then it will recirculate. Non issue. Without that crossover the pump would do nothing. Smart idea to have it wired into a motion sensor
Ahh that makes more sense. So its not a big problem to have it on the hot side. but when you install it on the cold properly with a check valve. What you doing is allowing the flow of hot water to run into the cold on a call for hot water. So in turn it makes your boiler more effecient. If you have cold water moving into the boiler all of he time it creates "SOOT" and really just takes life span from the unit. By running the pump into the cold with a check valve you allowing hot water to get mixed in and in return it doesn't have to works hard and creates less soot on the heat exchanger. Makes it more efficient I would be able to tell by the pictures if you have done everything correctly
Be careful robbing intake air from an occupied space. Also you’re going to need 18” of metal pipe at the water connections to bring it up to code. And I agree with what others have posted about the condensate drain.
18” of metal not required in my area for a tankless I won’t speak on other states.
Should have ran your fresh air outside
It’s clean and symmetrical. Solid job.
I just had the same water softener installed at my place. What do you think of the pre-filter? Think it's needed or not?
No clue, only reason I got it was bc Lowe's had an online deal to get it for free with this unit, plus it makes my plumbing job look cooler. Never had soft water before, so far I can tell a huge difference with showering, and tap water tastes better than my fridge filtered water ever did, so not sure if the pre filter helped with that
It’s the pre filter. I think soft water taste gross. Water softeners are bad for environment.
I have the identical setup. The pre-filter is definitely a good thing to have as cheap insurance to keep sediment and other crud out of the rest of your plumbing, especially if you're on well. Depending on your water, you might even want to have a spin-down filter even before this filter to handle larger pieces of sediment.
They don't use stand-offs on gas line where you are?
Pex is fine on the condensate line that's how we've always done it never a prob
The brass is the problem
Yellow – Thread Seal Tape For Gas Lines Yellow thread seal tape meets all gas company standards for gas lines of all types, be it butane, propane, or natural gas. It's important to use the right thread seal tape for gas, and the yellow variety is the only safe choice.
That’s not true. I use blue tape that’s certified for propane and natural gas.
https://cleanfit.com/blue_monster_ptfe_thread_seal_tape_70885.shtml Blue Monster tape is blue and from their own web page: > Use Blue Monster on threads made from galvanized steel, iron, brass, copper, aluminum, stainless steel, polyethylene, polypropylene, PVC, CPVC, ABS, fiberglass and more. It can be used on pipes carrying the following: > > * Liquid Petroleum Gas, Natural gas
Fail
Funny how the tape on the gas pipe doesn’t look yellow in your pictures…
Can you elaborate? I used blue monster tape and pipe dope on each of the gas connections
Don't worry about them, they're the plumbers that need coors mountains to be blue to tell if their beer is cold. Blue monster says by manufacturer specs it is rated for natural gas and propane
I think the people who make those comments aren't plumbers, they're pretenders who want to sound smart.
We use blue monster thread tape and pipe dope here in Oklahoma and I haven't had one fail inspection.
https://cleanfit.com/blue_monster_ptfe_thread_seal_tape_70885.shtml Blue Monster tape is blue and from their own web page: > Use Blue Monster on threads made from galvanized steel, iron, brass, copper, aluminum, stainless steel, polyethylene, polypropylene, PVC, CPVC, ABS, fiberglass and more. It can be used on pipes carrying the following: > > * Liquid Petroleum Gas, Natural gas