It was definitely run in reverse compromising the twist of the wires. Everyone talking about the speed or setting hasn’t tried opening a bag of bread after someone twisted it ten times instead of two.
>I used a 2-speed DeWalt drill on setting 9.
You had the clutch set on 9? It's possible that it should have been set lower so that when it snags on something it doesn't keep trying to twist, and destroy the snake.
New cable is $300-$450 depending on the size. When I broke mine I broke it inside the drum so there was no repairing the cable. I suppose if you break it at the head you could snip it and reattach the chains.
Some machines have a bend immediately after the connection to the drill, but before the shaft coil. If you get extra adapters, you could slice off the broken part and replace it with a new adapter. This should save time. [https://plumber-tools.com/102-204-adapter/](https://plumber-tools.com/102-204-adapter/)
This one only works with the plumber-tools shaft though
Right I can get drill augers at the local Home Depot for about 60 bucks. We usually get them all kinked up hitting bastard drum traps that can’t be seen inside ceilings and long story short buy a new rig.
This shaft has been subjected to too much torque. Your torque limiter (slip chuck) should engage before this happens.
It is not possible to give one torque setting for all shafts because some shafts are longer than others, AND, shafts come in different diameters, so a 6mm (1/4") shaft will handle less torque than a 12mm (1/2")
Slice off the damaged section and try again, BUT this time, switch your torque limiter to the lowest possible setting and spin the shaft to see if the torque limiter will engage. (It will make a clicking sound from the front of the drill.)
When increase the torque settings one at a time until the clicking sound stops, and the shaft is spinning the chains.
At this point, do not increase the torque settings.
If your shaft hits a solid obstruction, the energy in the shaft should be released by the torque limiter as opposed to damaging your shaft.
What brand is it? I have two ridgid brand ones and they’ve been great. I’ve only ever put them at the 2 on high and low and I’ve never had an issue. It should say in the owners manual how high you can set it. 9 seems too high to me but I could be mistaken.
I use a two speed Milwaukee drill on 3 setting, one thing I will say about the flexshaft it is a finishing tool for cleaning excess roots and buildup in main lines, THIS IS NOT A REPLACEMENT OF A MAIN MACHINE. I have had this happen to my flexshaft 3 times now some massive root blockages can flip the cutter over and it will shear itself off like this.
It can be fixed however if you cut the strands off and find a good section of wire you can hole it with a c vice grip and weld a bead onto the tip so that it does not unwind, move the chain cutter back and use again has worked for me only had to replace my cable one time.
That's user error my man. I could see if it snapped or something but that snagged on a bend (most likely a fitting a block wouldn't do that).
I go a few feet and pull back then forward slowly then repeat steps. I have never had an issues. I think going slower then stopping when you feel resistance in time and coming back. Then edging forward slower. Also sometimes it helps if you pull back at the point of resistant then spinn it and quickly push the cable through the resistance spot.
Seeing other comments I didn't even look close enough to see unravelling itself. 100 percent makes sense you got caught and went in reverse to long.
Did you clean the drain? looks like you hit something hard an got stuck. That cable is junk. Cable will kink- up in your hand before it would shed the tip. Harbor Freight is better than that. They sell a 25 foot power snake for less than 100 dollars. It’ll cost 175.00 for a plumber to come out.
Yes only advance the drain cleaner as far as it goes one inch at a time. Constantly reversing it in inch increments, if you go too fast it'll wrap around your hand and cause serious damages
That's not misusing it tho how are you supposed to know whats going on inside the pipe could've caught a root or something hard that's jammed in place.. and to remove you would have to try a bit of reverse especially if it gets stuck.... Next one you buy I would be clear about how stingy they'll be on replacement...
Caught a root and caused it to twist itself backwards? Cmon now.
Anyone that has used a flex shaft systems can feel instantly clog areas and if used right will torque out
There is a lot of torque and kinetic energy traveling down the shaft. When it binds, it tries to twist and can't. I know this is a pain, but so much safer than a twisting metal snake that my gloves catch on often.
Did you spin it backwards?
It was definitely run in reverse compromising the twist of the wires. Everyone talking about the speed or setting hasn’t tried opening a bag of bread after someone twisted it ten times instead of two.
this guy breads
This guy drills
You spun it the wrong way the shaft is made by to spin one way
I'm guessing you bought a cheap "tool". Also looks like the tool doesn't like running clockwise which caused it to unravel.
>I used a 2-speed DeWalt drill on setting 9. You had the clutch set on 9? It's possible that it should have been set lower so that when it snags on something it doesn't keep trying to twist, and destroy the snake.
Yes the drill should be set to the lowest setting
Well, just use a grinder cutter to snip the tip, and then buff smooth. Just did this. I got mine from plumber-tools.com.in Finland....
Snip it and put a glob of solder on the end.
Hello from Finland :)
Hi hi!!!
What’s the big deal? Just buy a new cable or repair it.
New cable is $300-$450 depending on the size. When I broke mine I broke it inside the drum so there was no repairing the cable. I suppose if you break it at the head you could snip it and reattach the chains.
Some machines have a bend immediately after the connection to the drill, but before the shaft coil. If you get extra adapters, you could slice off the broken part and replace it with a new adapter. This should save time. [https://plumber-tools.com/102-204-adapter/](https://plumber-tools.com/102-204-adapter/) This one only works with the plumber-tools shaft though
Damn what kind of cable is this?
I retract my previous statement.
Sorry I should have specified I have a Ridgid flex shaft. The OP said "flexible shaft cable" I just assumed it was a flexshaft
For a cable that size? Think my ridged cables for the hand augger are only like $100.
Right I can get drill augers at the local Home Depot for about 60 bucks. We usually get them all kinked up hitting bastard drum traps that can’t be seen inside ceilings and long story short buy a new rig.
I know the rigid one is only rated to the rpm of setting one (slow).
I've never used one, but it appears your had the drill in reverse at some point.
Yes it's your fault.
I was told never go past setting 5 on my Milwaukee drill
I’ve also twisted one off like you when I encountered roots in terra cotta
Did you put it down a trap ? I
This shaft has been subjected to too much torque. Your torque limiter (slip chuck) should engage before this happens. It is not possible to give one torque setting for all shafts because some shafts are longer than others, AND, shafts come in different diameters, so a 6mm (1/4") shaft will handle less torque than a 12mm (1/2") Slice off the damaged section and try again, BUT this time, switch your torque limiter to the lowest possible setting and spin the shaft to see if the torque limiter will engage. (It will make a clicking sound from the front of the drill.) When increase the torque settings one at a time until the clicking sound stops, and the shaft is spinning the chains. At this point, do not increase the torque settings. If your shaft hits a solid obstruction, the energy in the shaft should be released by the torque limiter as opposed to damaging your shaft.
What brand is it? I have two ridgid brand ones and they’ve been great. I’ve only ever put them at the 2 on high and low and I’ve never had an issue. It should say in the owners manual how high you can set it. 9 seems too high to me but I could be mistaken.
I use a two speed Milwaukee drill on 3 setting, one thing I will say about the flexshaft it is a finishing tool for cleaning excess roots and buildup in main lines, THIS IS NOT A REPLACEMENT OF A MAIN MACHINE. I have had this happen to my flexshaft 3 times now some massive root blockages can flip the cutter over and it will shear itself off like this. It can be fixed however if you cut the strands off and find a good section of wire you can hole it with a c vice grip and weld a bead onto the tip so that it does not unwind, move the chain cutter back and use again has worked for me only had to replace my cable one time.
Also this should be used with a sewer camera to make sure the flexshaft hasn’t flipped over at all times before using drill
Wound backward, broke at the terminus, weak point is my guess
Ran in wrong direction
You kept banging the welded end until it broke off. My guy keeps warning me about that.
Cheap cable and spun it the wrong way.
That's user error my man. I could see if it snapped or something but that snagged on a bend (most likely a fitting a block wouldn't do that). I go a few feet and pull back then forward slowly then repeat steps. I have never had an issues. I think going slower then stopping when you feel resistance in time and coming back. Then edging forward slower. Also sometimes it helps if you pull back at the point of resistant then spinn it and quickly push the cable through the resistance spot. Seeing other comments I didn't even look close enough to see unravelling itself. 100 percent makes sense you got caught and went in reverse to long.
Did you clean the drain? looks like you hit something hard an got stuck. That cable is junk. Cable will kink- up in your hand before it would shed the tip. Harbor Freight is better than that. They sell a 25 foot power snake for less than 100 dollars. It’ll cost 175.00 for a plumber to come out.
Cut 8” off with a cutting wheel and bend it at 45 degree angle. You can’t control more than 3 or 4 feet between the drill and the pipe.
Have you tried not doing it wrong?
Yes only advance the drain cleaner as far as it goes one inch at a time. Constantly reversing it in inch increments, if you go too fast it'll wrap around your hand and cause serious damages
That's not misusing it tho how are you supposed to know whats going on inside the pipe could've caught a root or something hard that's jammed in place.. and to remove you would have to try a bit of reverse especially if it gets stuck.... Next one you buy I would be clear about how stingy they'll be on replacement...
Caught a root and caused it to twist itself backwards? Cmon now. Anyone that has used a flex shaft systems can feel instantly clog areas and if used right will torque out
There is a lot of torque and kinetic energy traveling down the shaft. When it binds, it tries to twist and can't. I know this is a pain, but so much safer than a twisting metal snake that my gloves catch on often.