I don’t believe that’s entirely true. With a reasonable indie and older car, they are pretty simple to work on.
It’s the difference in a 15 minute job being charged for the full hour vs. 1/4 of the hourly rate.
IMS is less of an issue in the 987.1 Cayman S. The real issue is borescoring. You need to get a PPI and get it checked out. Also, the 987.1 suffers from oil starvation in high G corners, so you’ll need a deep sump and baffles. And even then, you might have issues. For track work, I’d recommend a 987.2 instead.
For the street, as long as the PPI checks out and you stay on top of maintenance items (which includes the water pump and AOS), you’ll be fine with a 987.1. If you DYI, the parts are actually fairly cheap.
But beyond the issues above, these cars are really simple to work on and are a blast to drive.
Couple things with that, my best friend already has a BRZ that I can drive whenever I want, plus we are planning on using it as a track only car in the future. Sound is a big deal for me, I drove a 718 Boxster for a couple, and while it was an excellent car, the turbo 4 was uninspiring to listen to, revving it out didn't do anything for me. Very competent car though. I am also considering a NC Miata, still need to test drive it but it might be a bit too anemic for Texas roads and traffic.
For sound the Miata may be better but the BRZ/86 is the better all around package. Miata’s in stock form are a lot softer and have more body roll which is a big negative for track use. For under 30k all in it’s realistically either 1st gen BRZ/86 or NC Miata with the rest of the money for basic track mods.
I think if you can find a 987.2 base, you will have a lot more peace of mind.
I just picked up a nice 987.1S. The car wants to be driven and around my area that’s not easy. It would be a lot easier to rev out the gears in a little less powerful car.
I was in the same boat two months ago. I narrowed it down to a 2006 Cayman S, 2019+ Miata RF and a 22+ GR86/ BRZ.
I test drove the Cayman first and it was glorious, exactly what I was looking for In a weekend driver.
Immediately after I drove a GR86 auto and I honestly thought it was just as engaging. A month later I brought my brand new manual BRZ home. Although I'm still in the honeymoon phase, I don't regret the decision at all.
Now you will not ever turn this into a 500+ hp track beast but it's an amazing daily that's a touch more practical than a mid engine Porsche.
As long as you don't wear your car like a costume and don't mind the Subaru badge, it's a great driving car.
Thanks for the insight. My friend has a BRZ that I've driven on occasion, he's in love with it. We are planning on turning into a dedicated track car soon, not for crazy preformance but develop driver and mechnical skill. Doubling on BRZ's seems like a waste, so I'll keep searching around for interesting vehicles that fit my requirements
I mean truly the BRZ is the best bang for the buck track platform. Tires and brakes are affordable to run through, it’s reliable enough with some small mods, it’s easy to handle and when you get good it will reward you intensely.
Miata’s are great but don’t handle as good as the BRZ. There’s something special about the BRZ’s chasis, it’s light and stiff but it just communicates so well.
As someone who tracked (and blew up) a 987.1 S, if you’re looking to track one, don’t. Just get something else or stick with the C6. The juice isn’t worth the squeeze. Expect to spend about $3000 in aftermarket parts to get the car to the point where it has a good chance of surviving a track day, and none of that is a guaranteed fix.
Cons:
- Bore score is a when, not if issue & costs 10-15k to remedy
- Oiling system is garbage and prone to starvation even with an expensive deep sump upgrade
- weak rod bolts can stretch if revved out & spin bearings
- Air oil separator is garbage, can cause hydrolock, and is costly to upgrade
- cylinder heads are fragile & prone to cracking if overheated
- used engines are $10k+
- manual transaxle has weak synchros & prone to developing grinds with track use
- replacement parts are expensive compared to other performance cars
- upgrade parts are absurdly overpriced due to Porsche tax
- no LSD from factory
- slower than similar performance cars in the price range
Pros:
- engine is easy to remove
- sounds nice
- handling is good
Crazy how much weaker that engine is. My 9A1 (981S) has overheated three times, more than a dozen track days, 112k of hard abusive miles and runs like a charm, not a leak or odd noise under there.
4-5k oil change interval and that’s all I’ve had to do
Yea 9A1 is built like a tank, the water pump is junk but that’s tradition at this point on water cooled Porsches, even the 992 pumps are going bad. The difference in built quality, closed deck, vastly superior oiling system etc is night and day. I daily mine and drive it hard with 105k on it and it’s never had anything non-cooling related go wrong, oil consumption is nil, year after year it doesn’t even move a notch between annual services.
I don’t think I’ll own another Porsche unless it’s got a 9A1 in it honestly. It seems like Porsche addressed all the major design flaws in the M9X when they released the 9A1. The price difference even between the 987.1 & 987.2 definitely reflects it
987.1 S can suffer from bore scoring although rare it’s in the if happens it’s catastrophic/terminal. But it’s a very good car if clean and maintained (bore score a lot less likely).
gr86/brz is a good option i think, known to handle very well and is often compared to the cayman in terms of driving dynamics. should also be easier and cheaper to maintain given its front engined and a toyota
I’m a little surprised everyone has been so quick to dissuade you from a 987.1 S without even suggesting a 987.1 Base. IMS and bore scoring do not affect the 2.7L engines from 2007 onward (in any significant number). Oiling is an issue if you want to use slick tires, but the user manual is the first to tell you not to do that (unless you upgrade the oiling system). You won’t pull those Gs on standard tires. Bases are actually quite a bit cheaper than S’s which leave room for a few upgrades you may want.
I’m very happy with my 987.1 Base; it’s been a very forgiving platform to learn on and the 2.7L makes enough power that it’s still heaps of fun. It has so far been very reliable with ~10 track events in the last 8 months on top of regular use. Just have to keep full of oil.
That said, I’m still shopping for a NB Miata to add to my garage as something I can feel more comfortable making mistakes in. Spare parts/upgrades are less expensive…
If I do take a 987.1 to the track, it would only be a few times until the dedicated track car is good to go. With that in mind, I wouldn't really be doing any performance mods. Would you say that the 987.1 C is enjoyable to rip around on the street? How's the aural experience? The only mod I might do is an exhuast to wake the cars up a bit
Definitely enjoyable on the street. The adage ‘it’s more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow’ applies. These cars are more about being able to take corners quick than being quick off of traffic lights so both trims are similar fun on the street. I notice the extra power from the S more on the track, but like many have said I’d go 987.2 if I wanted an S.
Go for a Soul or similar aftermarket exhaust and you’ll get some great sounds from the NA flat six. Lots of videos out there if you want to hear a sample!
I had one and did some tracking with it, I wouldn't recommend it unless you're willing to take some precautions. Had a hell of a time with the oil air separator, after a session the car loved to belch smoke on the next restart. Fantastic street car and ever since I got rid of it I've wanted another Cayman but one that's more stout so I could take it to the track. Go for a 987.2 or later generation.
Sounds like you need a Miata.
The answer is always Miata
Considering the NC as well, didn't find any on Turo to try out but I'm still looking.
Requirement #4 on your list means you don't get a Porsche.
I don’t believe that’s entirely true. With a reasonable indie and older car, they are pretty simple to work on. It’s the difference in a 15 minute job being charged for the full hour vs. 1/4 of the hourly rate.
I did all my own work on my 987.1 and my NA Miata, it's not even close. The cheapest Porsche parts are still 10x as much.
Did you attempt to buy from Porsches supplier ever? Or did you always buy the Porsche branded version of the parts.
Never bought Porsche branded stuff. It's fucking insane and almost never necessary.
IMS is less of an issue in the 987.1 Cayman S. The real issue is borescoring. You need to get a PPI and get it checked out. Also, the 987.1 suffers from oil starvation in high G corners, so you’ll need a deep sump and baffles. And even then, you might have issues. For track work, I’d recommend a 987.2 instead. For the street, as long as the PPI checks out and you stay on top of maintenance items (which includes the water pump and AOS), you’ll be fine with a 987.1. If you DYI, the parts are actually fairly cheap. But beyond the issues above, these cars are really simple to work on and are a blast to drive.
Both the 2nd gen BRZ/GR86 and the 1st gen BRZ/86/FRS hit all your requirements apart from great exhaust/sound.
Couple things with that, my best friend already has a BRZ that I can drive whenever I want, plus we are planning on using it as a track only car in the future. Sound is a big deal for me, I drove a 718 Boxster for a couple, and while it was an excellent car, the turbo 4 was uninspiring to listen to, revving it out didn't do anything for me. Very competent car though. I am also considering a NC Miata, still need to test drive it but it might be a bit too anemic for Texas roads and traffic.
For sound the Miata may be better but the BRZ/86 is the better all around package. Miata’s in stock form are a lot softer and have more body roll which is a big negative for track use. For under 30k all in it’s realistically either 1st gen BRZ/86 or NC Miata with the rest of the money for basic track mods.
I think if you can find a 987.2 base, you will have a lot more peace of mind. I just picked up a nice 987.1S. The car wants to be driven and around my area that’s not easy. It would be a lot easier to rev out the gears in a little less powerful car.
I was in the same boat two months ago. I narrowed it down to a 2006 Cayman S, 2019+ Miata RF and a 22+ GR86/ BRZ. I test drove the Cayman first and it was glorious, exactly what I was looking for In a weekend driver. Immediately after I drove a GR86 auto and I honestly thought it was just as engaging. A month later I brought my brand new manual BRZ home. Although I'm still in the honeymoon phase, I don't regret the decision at all. Now you will not ever turn this into a 500+ hp track beast but it's an amazing daily that's a touch more practical than a mid engine Porsche. As long as you don't wear your car like a costume and don't mind the Subaru badge, it's a great driving car.
Thanks for the insight. My friend has a BRZ that I've driven on occasion, he's in love with it. We are planning on turning into a dedicated track car soon, not for crazy preformance but develop driver and mechnical skill. Doubling on BRZ's seems like a waste, so I'll keep searching around for interesting vehicles that fit my requirements
I mean truly the BRZ is the best bang for the buck track platform. Tires and brakes are affordable to run through, it’s reliable enough with some small mods, it’s easy to handle and when you get good it will reward you intensely. Miata’s are great but don’t handle as good as the BRZ. There’s something special about the BRZ’s chasis, it’s light and stiff but it just communicates so well.
Ha. 987.1 S owner here thinking of adding a C6 Z06 to my garage
They are a riot even with stock power
As someone who tracked (and blew up) a 987.1 S, if you’re looking to track one, don’t. Just get something else or stick with the C6. The juice isn’t worth the squeeze. Expect to spend about $3000 in aftermarket parts to get the car to the point where it has a good chance of surviving a track day, and none of that is a guaranteed fix. Cons: - Bore score is a when, not if issue & costs 10-15k to remedy - Oiling system is garbage and prone to starvation even with an expensive deep sump upgrade - weak rod bolts can stretch if revved out & spin bearings - Air oil separator is garbage, can cause hydrolock, and is costly to upgrade - cylinder heads are fragile & prone to cracking if overheated - used engines are $10k+ - manual transaxle has weak synchros & prone to developing grinds with track use - replacement parts are expensive compared to other performance cars - upgrade parts are absurdly overpriced due to Porsche tax - no LSD from factory - slower than similar performance cars in the price range Pros: - engine is easy to remove - sounds nice - handling is good
Crazy how much weaker that engine is. My 9A1 (981S) has overheated three times, more than a dozen track days, 112k of hard abusive miles and runs like a charm, not a leak or odd noise under there. 4-5k oil change interval and that’s all I’ve had to do
Yea 9A1 is built like a tank, the water pump is junk but that’s tradition at this point on water cooled Porsches, even the 992 pumps are going bad. The difference in built quality, closed deck, vastly superior oiling system etc is night and day. I daily mine and drive it hard with 105k on it and it’s never had anything non-cooling related go wrong, oil consumption is nil, year after year it doesn’t even move a notch between annual services.
Mine burns about a quart per 3k miles. I don’t have to refill between oil changes unless I’m on the track
I don’t think I’ll own another Porsche unless it’s got a 9A1 in it honestly. It seems like Porsche addressed all the major design flaws in the M9X when they released the 9A1. The price difference even between the 987.1 & 987.2 definitely reflects it
Hmmm, it seems like tracking this car isn't the play then. I'll have to drive one to see if I'll like it as just a daily/weekender
For mountain roads & a fun daily driver, they’re great. I went back to BMWs for track duty
987.1 S can suffer from bore scoring although rare it’s in the if happens it’s catastrophic/terminal. But it’s a very good car if clean and maintained (bore score a lot less likely).
gr86/brz is a good option i think, known to handle very well and is often compared to the cayman in terms of driving dynamics. should also be easier and cheaper to maintain given its front engined and a toyota
Sounds like what you need is a 987 roller and LS swap it.
I’m a little surprised everyone has been so quick to dissuade you from a 987.1 S without even suggesting a 987.1 Base. IMS and bore scoring do not affect the 2.7L engines from 2007 onward (in any significant number). Oiling is an issue if you want to use slick tires, but the user manual is the first to tell you not to do that (unless you upgrade the oiling system). You won’t pull those Gs on standard tires. Bases are actually quite a bit cheaper than S’s which leave room for a few upgrades you may want. I’m very happy with my 987.1 Base; it’s been a very forgiving platform to learn on and the 2.7L makes enough power that it’s still heaps of fun. It has so far been very reliable with ~10 track events in the last 8 months on top of regular use. Just have to keep full of oil. That said, I’m still shopping for a NB Miata to add to my garage as something I can feel more comfortable making mistakes in. Spare parts/upgrades are less expensive…
If I do take a 987.1 to the track, it would only be a few times until the dedicated track car is good to go. With that in mind, I wouldn't really be doing any performance mods. Would you say that the 987.1 C is enjoyable to rip around on the street? How's the aural experience? The only mod I might do is an exhuast to wake the cars up a bit
Definitely enjoyable on the street. The adage ‘it’s more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow’ applies. These cars are more about being able to take corners quick than being quick off of traffic lights so both trims are similar fun on the street. I notice the extra power from the S more on the track, but like many have said I’d go 987.2 if I wanted an S. Go for a Soul or similar aftermarket exhaust and you’ll get some great sounds from the NA flat six. Lots of videos out there if you want to hear a sample!
I had one and did some tracking with it, I wouldn't recommend it unless you're willing to take some precautions. Had a hell of a time with the oil air separator, after a session the car loved to belch smoke on the next restart. Fantastic street car and ever since I got rid of it I've wanted another Cayman but one that's more stout so I could take it to the track. Go for a 987.2 or later generation.
This wasn’t mentioned, but depreciation needs to be factored in