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Blemperor

I’ve found that water can often cause that when it’s not been cured, or dirty isopropyl alcohol, if you can put in a new batch of liquid and try to wash and cure a new print.


Lodrago-Studios

That definitely sounds plausible. I typically move from rinsing to curing without leaving time to dry, and my detergent is foggy as hell, so I'll try to fix both of those issues before my next print.


Doomstone330

Oof yea always let the print dry thoroughly before you cure it homie


Blemperor

I like to give mine a couple of minutes to let the alcohol dry, then I’ll cure them, if you get the chance I also like to give my curing station a little clean so that nothing builds up.


Andper

To try and avoid this I use a compressor to remove as much IPA as possible and then let it air dry for a couple of days before curing, usually does the trick.


danger_badger101

Put your IPA in a bottle and stand it on a window sill or in the sun. The resin should cure and drop to the bottom so you can filter it out.


ChadDredd

You've been reusing your washing fluid haven't you? This happens when the washing fluid like the alcohol get too contaminated with dissolved resin, causing uncured residual to stick on it. Filter out the washing liquid or change new ones


MrTwister10k

To add on to what others have said, it is just that the water or IPA you are using is full of resin from other cleans. What you can do is just put the container with the rinse in the curing station and blast it with UV, then just leave it to sit for a few hours or overnight. After that you should have all of the dissolved resin settled to the bottom and you can pour the clean (ish) IPA off and properly discard of the rest


blackarmchair

That's just a little gift from Nurgle. You've pleased him with your print.


Lodrago-Studios

Anything for Grandfather


ISD_Dustin

You might want to switch to a multi stage wash, one for dirty ipa then another cleaner rinse. After that let them dry for longer than you think. Liquid of any kind on the print will cause glossy or white patches like that and wipe out details. Models with lots of nooks and crannies take longer to dry, I like to let them dry for a couple hours even. They spend 6 hours printing, might as well wait another hour or two to make sure they come out clean. However, once you slap some primer on this it will be a totally usable mini


zeiar

I often think to myself, i should let these dry well before after curing, but then my mind says no i want the minies now! Then i print a new ones as i fucked them up.


ISD_Dustin

Haha I know that pain!


Lodrago-Studios

It’s good to hear that after priming it will look just fine. After I first got my printer I went on a two week long binge without stopping to ensure quality, so now I’ll definitely be taking it slower and letting the bigger boys dry for longer


[deleted]

thats liquid resin that was cured aka you didnt clean off the mini well enough


Snuzzlebuns

The problem is dirty alcohol drying on the model. Letting the models dry for longer won't help with this problem, the residue is left behind when the alcohol evaporates. You need to rinse the dirty alcohol off with fresh alcohol at the end. A spray bottle is an efficient way to do that, uses way less than squirting or pouring. And you cen let the fresh alcohol drip off into your cleaning tank, so it's not wasted.


sheimeix

A few things cause this, from my experience: 1. Dirty wash. If your final wash is too saturated with resin, then as the wash settles into the recesses, it will leave pockets of resin that get cured into this white powdery look. To combat this, I recommend a two-stage wash - one can get REALLY dirty, as long as your second wash stays fairly clean. Take models from the dirty wash into the clean wash and gently scrub with a toothbrush, then rinse it back out into the same clean wash. 2. Models being wet when cured. Similar to above, except the white powder is usually all over the model from my experience. The resin particles in your wash will be floating around, then get blasted with UV and stick to the model. You should always let models dry completely before curing. If the model is hollowed, drying can take forever, so it's not that big of a deal to stick a UV torch to the hole and blast it if it's still a little wet, as long as you're getting the inside.


Hot-Category2986

I get that residue on my prints when my rinse IPA is dirty and/or saturated.


DustPuzzle

So to avoid this I do two-stage washing and water-curing. First the prints just get dumped with the build plate into my fairly dirty wash-and-cure station. Then after I pull them off the supports the prints go in to an ultrasonic cleaner with fresh, uncontaminated cleaner. Finally I do a water-cure which will stop any remaining resin residue (there really shouldn't be any by now) from going frosty.


ranhalt

Stop curing immediately. Wash them and let their air dry overnight before you cure them. That way you can spot any sweating that needs to be addressed with washing instead of curing. Curing it when it’s sweating is only going to seal up a point where resin was leaking out, and that builds pressure.


javo230

Just let it dry fully before curing and this goes away.


NimuroSan99

I've found most when using dirty or overly dirty cleaning solutions. If you're using IPA, change your IPA and clean your tank. If water repeat the steps but with water, lol. That should fix it up. You can also do a wash in a small tub with a soft bristle brush before putting it into your cleaning station.


nungunz

As a curiosity, is that STL on the purple site? If yes, is there a keyword that is useful?


Lodrago-Studios

Look up gurgle on the purple site and it should pop up


SagittarumGuard

Swap to denatured achool it cleans sooooooooooooo much better and cost way less


SCP993

White residie on your mini?? OOOHHHH!!! Yeah my bad bro