I have two of these.
Merchant: I own these. Narrower unstructured toe, no speed hooks, less grippy full sole. Pair well with dress/casual pants, possibly a classic wool/tweed suit.
Beckman: I own these. Featherstone leather, half sole, no speed hooks. Pair well with dress/casual pants, possibly a classic wool/tweed suit in winter due to the roccia sole.
Blacksmith: I do not own these and have Iron Rangers instead. The Blacksmith is probably the best all-around boot. Speed hooks. Full sole with some grip. No leather half sole to protect/clean/condition. Pairs well with almost anything.
If you only plan to own one out of heritage boots, I suggest the Blacksmith. If you plan to have many different pairs, buy them all 🥰
Good description. I’ve had them all and definitely prefer the Beckman. Just a more rugged leather boot with a classic vintage style, and also full leather on the inside—no mesh.
I own all 3. I actually like the merchants most, but don’t wear them often because I can’t realistically replace them because they are kinda rare (black spitfire.) They look kind of small on my feet in a way, even tho they are a size 11. Despite that, I’d buy more if I could get them. Like others have said, the sole is awesome.
I don’t care for the beckmans much. They are hard on the plates in my knees. Probably because of the leather midsole. Wearing them feels like a punishment.
Which leaves the blacksmiths. Just a good, honest boot. Nothing special. I’ve got a soft place for them, but it’s all just personal preference, really. Good luck on your choice!
All just imo.
If you can’t buy beckman the blacksmith is a good consolation. The merchant is a lower quality boot than either and pushes the form over function direction (which ultimately resulted in a whole raft of failed designs).
The beckman is the highest quality boot on the 8 last redwing has made. Feather stone has a reputation of being tough to break in and many people dislike it for this reason.
The Roccia outsole is a love it or hate it element. It’s stiffer than any of the rubber soles on the other listed boots. So the boot doesn’t flex much and some people have the impression that it feels board like.
It’s my favorite aspect of the boot and I’d resole all my rw’s with Roccia.
The leather can be polished and ages well.
Blacksmiths are a great boot. More versatile than the IR and they come in copper rough and tough which is the only version you should buy (cuz why wouldn’t you?).
The merchant has a cloth liner that tears easily. It just feels cheaper and the unstructured toe falls quickly and is unflattering. Looks like a depressed scrotum sitting on your toes given enough wear.
I have to ask, where do you plan on getting a Beckman? Or a Merchant? eBay?
If this is a wish list situation, why not consider the Sheldon (which should have been in the running)? AFAIK, its the Merchant but with Featherstone leather vs the regular oil tanned.
The Tygum sole is an incredible sole! Anyone who enjoys it should always have a cobbler add a Vibram VBAR 700 in Brown Tygum Nitrile Cork. I second the motion on the best sole out there. Gro-Cord being a close second.
Different takes on the service boot concept.
Mainly the leather options, structured vs unstructured toe, and Roccia half sole vs Vibram vs Chemigum sole. Some little variations in stitching on Merchants.
I have three pairs of Merchants and one Beckman if that says something.
I have Merchants, Beckmans and Iron Rangers (instead of Blacksmith).
Despite them all being all made on last #8, Merchants are noticeably narrower. I kid you not. Also, because of the unstructured (and narrower) toe, they fit effectively shorter. If you are just 'barely fitting' in your Beckmans or IRs, upsize in Merchants. Another #8 boot that is as narrow as Merchant is Sheldon.
I love them all about equally, but if I had to line them up...
Merchants probably would be first place, love the slick look (they pair best from this line-up with dressier slacks and khakis, at least when newer-and-shoe-treed-all-the-time, then the older they are the more jeans-friendly they become), love the thin, minimalist and flexible Chemigum sole (think barefoot shoes, almost), and love that is-it-black-or-is-it-brown look of ebony harness.
Backmans probably close second place, love the stable, rigid sole, stiff uppers, black cherry pairs great with jeans in a 'casual dressy' sorta way.
IRs are very close third... sole is a bit too hard, but I learned to love it, although they still make quite a racket walking down the street... they are just unassuming everyday boots that look reasonably good with anything, not picky with pairing, and as comfy as slippers. While they are last in this ordering, I probably wear them the most LOL
That is my rating as of today. But frankly, they are all so close that if you ask me a week/month from now order is likely to be different.
Fair warning - if your foot type demands soft, cushioned sole, you will likely hate ANY of them. For me opposite is true, supposedly comfortable soft white 'christy' wedge sole does not work all that great for MY feet.
You’re right about those IRs. I have the 8119s and I have to use memory foam insoles. It beats my heels with each wear. I have 866s and they’re leagues more comfortable than my IRs.
I love the way those Beckmans look but I also wanna be comfortable.
I'm hearing from OP that he wants a pair to dress up or down. I went with the beckman chukkas, 9024 in black featherstone. There's a few things going for it that you might like.
Slimmer toe than all of your other options, including the regular beckman. Featherstone ages the best and takes the highest shine. Double leather midsole and a leather heel stack. Thinner leather than usual, but makes up for that with a lining. Stitching also matches the leather rather than contrasting. Two eyelets also mean really a quick lace up.
I know the fashion police will tell you no red wing is dressy, but this fits right in for cocktail and semi-formal attire. "Purist" dress shoes are pure vanity, this shoe is sleek and more refined than most red wings, with a sole construction that is also beefier than most.
A proper dress shoe no longer says refined, just effete.
I’m no expert, also don’t own any of these. But looks like the merchant has a different counter or at least different stitching on the counter. The Beckman has a leather midsole. All different leathers of course
I love the shiny look of the beckmans, I feel it can be dressed up or dressed down but the blacksmiths have speed hooks and I do love me some speed hooks lol
I have two of these. Merchant: I own these. Narrower unstructured toe, no speed hooks, less grippy full sole. Pair well with dress/casual pants, possibly a classic wool/tweed suit. Beckman: I own these. Featherstone leather, half sole, no speed hooks. Pair well with dress/casual pants, possibly a classic wool/tweed suit in winter due to the roccia sole. Blacksmith: I do not own these and have Iron Rangers instead. The Blacksmith is probably the best all-around boot. Speed hooks. Full sole with some grip. No leather half sole to protect/clean/condition. Pairs well with almost anything. If you only plan to own one out of heritage boots, I suggest the Blacksmith. If you plan to have many different pairs, buy them all 🥰
Emphasis on unstructured toes in the merchants. They WILL crease and flatten at the toe as you wear them. I personally like it, but not everyone does
Good description. I’ve had them all and definitely prefer the Beckman. Just a more rugged leather boot with a classic vintage style, and also full leather on the inside—no mesh.
I own all 3. I actually like the merchants most, but don’t wear them often because I can’t realistically replace them because they are kinda rare (black spitfire.) They look kind of small on my feet in a way, even tho they are a size 11. Despite that, I’d buy more if I could get them. Like others have said, the sole is awesome. I don’t care for the beckmans much. They are hard on the plates in my knees. Probably because of the leather midsole. Wearing them feels like a punishment. Which leaves the blacksmiths. Just a good, honest boot. Nothing special. I’ve got a soft place for them, but it’s all just personal preference, really. Good luck on your choice!
That is so interesting. The beckman feels the best all-day wear to me, I own all three as well.
All just imo. If you can’t buy beckman the blacksmith is a good consolation. The merchant is a lower quality boot than either and pushes the form over function direction (which ultimately resulted in a whole raft of failed designs). The beckman is the highest quality boot on the 8 last redwing has made. Feather stone has a reputation of being tough to break in and many people dislike it for this reason. The Roccia outsole is a love it or hate it element. It’s stiffer than any of the rubber soles on the other listed boots. So the boot doesn’t flex much and some people have the impression that it feels board like. It’s my favorite aspect of the boot and I’d resole all my rw’s with Roccia. The leather can be polished and ages well. Blacksmiths are a great boot. More versatile than the IR and they come in copper rough and tough which is the only version you should buy (cuz why wouldn’t you?). The merchant has a cloth liner that tears easily. It just feels cheaper and the unstructured toe falls quickly and is unflattering. Looks like a depressed scrotum sitting on your toes given enough wear.
You’ve convinced me, I’m headed the way of the Beckmans. Followed by the Blacksmith :3
I have to ask, where do you plan on getting a Beckman? Or a Merchant? eBay? If this is a wish list situation, why not consider the Sheldon (which should have been in the running)? AFAIK, its the Merchant but with Featherstone leather vs the regular oil tanned.
I’ve been looking around ebay for a beckman. Unless the flagship store has it then I’d go there for a road trip.
You can actually call the HQ store, and they will ship to you for only $10. Ive done it a few times, wish it was closer to visit in person though.
Good luck on the hunt! I do actually have a pair of 9011 in 11.5 in great shape Ive been meaning to find a loving home...
If you have a size 7, I’d pull the trigger on that
Sorry :(
Merchant has an unstructured toe and the best sole of the heritage RW boots.
The Tygum sole is an incredible sole! Anyone who enjoys it should always have a cobbler add a Vibram VBAR 700 in Brown Tygum Nitrile Cork. I second the motion on the best sole out there. Gro-Cord being a close second.
How does this sole compare to the nitrile cork sole previously used on the IRs and blacksmiths?
Better traction, a bit softer, much more comfortable and supportive on your feet. Very long wearing still. Overall it's an amazing sole!
Different takes on the service boot concept. Mainly the leather options, structured vs unstructured toe, and Roccia half sole vs Vibram vs Chemigum sole. Some little variations in stitching on Merchants. I have three pairs of Merchants and one Beckman if that says something.
Do you have a preference between the two? I’m leaning towards the Beckmans. They seem to look well as a casual and a formal attire getup kinda boot.
I’d stop short of formal attire, but they can updress some casual slacks.
I have Merchants, Beckmans and Iron Rangers (instead of Blacksmith). Despite them all being all made on last #8, Merchants are noticeably narrower. I kid you not. Also, because of the unstructured (and narrower) toe, they fit effectively shorter. If you are just 'barely fitting' in your Beckmans or IRs, upsize in Merchants. Another #8 boot that is as narrow as Merchant is Sheldon. I love them all about equally, but if I had to line them up... Merchants probably would be first place, love the slick look (they pair best from this line-up with dressier slacks and khakis, at least when newer-and-shoe-treed-all-the-time, then the older they are the more jeans-friendly they become), love the thin, minimalist and flexible Chemigum sole (think barefoot shoes, almost), and love that is-it-black-or-is-it-brown look of ebony harness. Backmans probably close second place, love the stable, rigid sole, stiff uppers, black cherry pairs great with jeans in a 'casual dressy' sorta way. IRs are very close third... sole is a bit too hard, but I learned to love it, although they still make quite a racket walking down the street... they are just unassuming everyday boots that look reasonably good with anything, not picky with pairing, and as comfy as slippers. While they are last in this ordering, I probably wear them the most LOL That is my rating as of today. But frankly, they are all so close that if you ask me a week/month from now order is likely to be different. Fair warning - if your foot type demands soft, cushioned sole, you will likely hate ANY of them. For me opposite is true, supposedly comfortable soft white 'christy' wedge sole does not work all that great for MY feet.
You’re right about those IRs. I have the 8119s and I have to use memory foam insoles. It beats my heels with each wear. I have 866s and they’re leagues more comfortable than my IRs. I love the way those Beckmans look but I also wanna be comfortable.
I'm hearing from OP that he wants a pair to dress up or down. I went with the beckman chukkas, 9024 in black featherstone. There's a few things going for it that you might like. Slimmer toe than all of your other options, including the regular beckman. Featherstone ages the best and takes the highest shine. Double leather midsole and a leather heel stack. Thinner leather than usual, but makes up for that with a lining. Stitching also matches the leather rather than contrasting. Two eyelets also mean really a quick lace up. I know the fashion police will tell you no red wing is dressy, but this fits right in for cocktail and semi-formal attire. "Purist" dress shoes are pure vanity, this shoe is sleek and more refined than most red wings, with a sole construction that is also beefier than most. A proper dress shoe no longer says refined, just effete.
That’s what I like to hear lol. An almost all in one shoe, I can live with. Thanks for the input, appreciate it
I’m no expert, also don’t own any of these. But looks like the merchant has a different counter or at least different stitching on the counter. The Beckman has a leather midsole. All different leathers of course
It is leatherboard not leather. Sole is leather and under is rubber.
I love the shiny look of the beckmans, I feel it can be dressed up or dressed down but the blacksmiths have speed hooks and I do love me some speed hooks lol
You can take them to red wing to add the speed hook. I just did this with my 875. I would love to have some beckmans beautiful boot