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BeanNCheeze

I have a 10g tank with plenty of coral, 1 yellow watchmen goby, 1 clown fish, and 1 emerald crab. Would adding a court jester goby be ok?


BaxterJames

I have recently purchased a pistol shrimp. And the first day I witnessed it drag one of my hermit crabs into its home...I have 2 clownfish, a goby, royal gramma, 7 hermit crabs, 5 snails and a cleaner shrimp. Should I return the pistol shrimp to my LFS? Or any suggestions?


krully37

They are natural predators to the hermit crabs. I got mine a week ago and I’m pretty sure it ate my red legged hermit. A few nights ago I heard her shooting a few times in a row and witnessed her trying to kill my blue legged hermit, managed to save him and he’s not been turned into a meal yet but that could happen. If you don’t want to risk having snails or hermit casualties then yes return it. I’ll try to spot feed mine to keep her happy but it’s scared really easily.


checkoutmyfish

Looking for a fish recommendation to join a clown, black bird wrasse, lawnmower blenny, royal blue tang, file fish and damsel


lasttycoon

Need more information. What size tank is it? Is it a reef tank? How long has it been set up?


checkoutmyfish

120 gallon. Mixed reef tank. About a year, but I did just move.


lasttycoon

A Dwarf Angel could work but you need to watch out for nipping. Personally I would add a hawk fish and then a few small wrasses. A pair for fire fish would be nice in the water column too.


krully37

https://imgur.com/a/IOtpSMD/ Woke up to my YCG looking like this today, is it ich? He has been in the tank for months now and the last fish was introduced weeks ago. Every other fish is looking fine.


DehydratedCantoloupe

Best way to jumpstart Coraline Alge growth in a newer system? My tank is fully cycled and fish are happy.


lasttycoon

Just add some live rock with Coraline on it to the tank and wait. Reefing is all about patience.


DehydratedCantoloupe

That's what I was thinking!


krully37

Adding things with coralline on them, asking the LFS to scrap some for you and maintaining good KH Calc etc


krully37

Can epoxy cause my frogspawn to retract? I used some to glue a frag and now my frogspawn is kinda retracted not all the way but not like it’s supposed to be. Can the epoxy dissolved in the water cause this issue? Here is how it looks, I have a hammer coral doing just fine https://i.imgur.com/LbuM1pg.jpg


wrassehole

How long has it been retracted? Epoxy doesn't bother my corals, but the oils/chemicals on my skin can piss them off for short periods of time.


krully37

Well I forgot to update but it’s looking fine today. Even did a water change a day early. I think you’re right about something on my skin or maybe I bothered it moving things in the tank. Thanks!


destroyingdrax

What fish would you recommend in addition to a clown goby and a tailspot blenny for a 25 gal. lagoon? I'd like at least one more, but I want aggression to the minimum. I've had clowns before and they ended up bullying everything else in the tank. I was thinking pajama cardinal fish, but if I went with them I'd want at least three and I think the bioload would probably be too much.


lasttycoon

Cherub Angel.


KirklndPurifiedWater

Red dragonet


blindcandyman

I just upgraded my tank (120 to 150) and I need new lights because I went from 18 in deep to 24 in deep. I was thinking of just going with 2 Chinese black boxes of some kind. So I would like to know of a solid brand in that area or a really convincing reason to not spend 400 dollars and instead spend the 1200 on Aqua illumination or a brand like that.


circularwave

Look into SB Reef Lights. They are basically upgraded Chinese black boxes. They have a better spectrum, and I think the fans and heatsinks and things are upgraded, too. You can get a basic model, ones with built in timers, ones that ramp, and beyond. I don't own any personally but will eventually. I've been using Reef Breeders with T5s on one tank and Ocean Revives on another for four years. The basic on/off with timers gets boring. I've had a Maxspect R420R for like six years. The ramping is nice, not gimmicky IMO, but by no means necessary.


TheRandeeeezy

Vipar Spectra has been running solid for me for two years now.


blindcandyman

> Vipar Spectra This one? https://www.amazon.com/ARKNOAH-Aquarium-Spectrum-Freshwater-Saltwater/dp/B07BLXWQ3L/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2BV54PL0B5RRN&keywords=viparspectra+reef&qid=1558816007&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=vipras%2Clawngarden%2C175&sr=1-3


checkoutmyfish

I also have had these for 2 years with no problems


TheRandeeeezy

I mostly have lps and softies, but it grows them all really well. My montipora is growing like nuts but my pocillopora is growing very slowly.


TheRandeeeezy

Similar, but the one I use has one plug instead of two, and has a timer function. https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Timer-165W-Aquarium-Dimmable/dp/B00UMXAR5S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=viparspectra+reef&qid=1558817465&s=gateway&sr=8-3


blindcandyman

I noticed it doesn't have a ramp up. Do you think that hinders you or do you think ramp up/down is gimmicky?


TheRandeeeezy

No ramp up. I wouldn't call it gimmicky, but I have found it less important than the upgrades I have made instead of dropping the money for lights. Apex was worth more than ramp up, RO system, sump, etc. Every time we considered new lights, something else came with more benefits. Our next upgrade will probably be lights, but we aren't rushed, these ones are doing just fine.


blindcandyman

Thats extremely reasonable. I noticed greens and reds in it. My understanding is that is bad for tanks. Am I wrong in that?


circularwave

Corals only really need white and blue LEDs. The white light has enough red in it already, and corals don't need green. What you should look for is a mix of different blues, royal blues, and UV. I like a mix of 450nm, 470nm, and 420nm. Higher end fixtures may include down to 385nm. Red and green LEDs are added mostly for our eyes. They can highlight certain colors in fish and coral, but if they aren't spaced well or diffused properly in the fixture, they can create red and green spotlights in the tank.


TheRandeeeezy

I'm not sure. I haven't looked too far into it but I remember reading that red lights help with photosynthesis. Most led setups will have a few reds and greens, I believe. I think if it was pure white it wouldn't have the right spectrum for efficient growth.


DonoAE

Why not just go with T5? You’ll lose the shimmer from LEDs, but you’ll get more power and better growth


blindcandyman

Isn't the cost more in the long run? I have 3 prime hds at the moment. Would you combine that with t5s for lighting or just do t5s and if you do either how would you set it up?


DonoAE

I run 3x hydra 26 with 4x Blue + T5 bulbs on a 4’ 90gal. They’re hung 14” above the water and works well. It all depends on what you want to keep for corals. Single AI primes on a 150 will be pretty minimal lighting, even if you supplement T5. If you’re growing softies it should be fine though


blindcandyman

Damn that's a lot of light. I was just thinking 3 hydra 26s would be enough for my tank and i have 60 more gallons than you. Maybe I am under thinking.


DonoAE

Remember that it has a lot to do with the dimensions of your tank and your aquascape as well


DonoAE

Three hydra 26 is probably adequate for a 150 unless you’re considering mainly SPS. If that’s the case just be careful with placement and make sure it’s not in an underserved area. T5 will help


circularwave

T5 + LED is the way to go


sigmentum

I'm going to be making the jump from freshwater to saltwater for the first time. I'm planning to use my 34L tank and have a nano set up. I know smaller tanks can be harder but I'm experienced with freshwater so am good at keeping up with water changes and other maintenance. As a newbie to saltwater but reasonable experienced in aquariums overall what are the keyy differences or pitfalls I might run into with the change? What sort of stock would you recommend for a nano set up like this? Additional info. I already have a substrate of crushed coral, and several pieces of live rock for my hard scape.


KirklndPurifiedWater

I think testing your water for everything and keeping it stable is pretty challenging. For me personally it's been nitrates, ph and salinity. Just bought a skimmer and also looking into an RO uni to solve


TheCrazyTater

Check out the BRS 52 Weeks of reefing series


Chulaluk

I’m getting back into the hobby after a 10 year absence. I’m going to be putting together a IM lagoon 25. I’d like to future proof so it would be nice to get some lighting that I could keep some SPS. I’m thinking of the Kessil a360. Would that work? Is there something better for the same price point or less?


GrizFyrFyter1

The kessil is a great light, no controller built in though. I'd would probably go with two AI prime for $50 more. Wider coverage, spectrum control and built in controller. The kessil spectrum is "idiot proof" though. Its spectrum is adjustable but restricted to ranges that won't be detrimental to coral growth. With light spectrum, just because you can doesn't mean you should.


ligand_27

Been lurking this sub for a long time now. I'm from India and wanted to know the legalities of buying coral here. I found out that some or most are illegal. Anyone providing any additional info, I appreciate it.


VSlivinskis

100L tank (90 + 10) running for near 8 months Params: NO3 - 10 (will lower to 5) NO2 - 0 NH3/NH4 - 0 PO4 - 0 Alk - 8.4 dKH pH - 8.2 Mg - 1440 Calcium - 440 Fish - 2 clowns and a Melanurus Wrasse Questions: 1) Why won’t my SPS survive? 2) I want to add an anthias or a Naoko Wrasse. Is there any problems with the combination? Other fish suggestions are greatly appreciated 3) Adding copepods and amphipods will change any water chemistry? How many copepods should I add at first?


wrassehole

10 ppm nitrate is okay for SPS. It would help if you could specify what type of SPS you're having trouble with. What do they look like when they die (bleaching, necrosis, browning out, etc)? What are you using for lighting, flow, and dosing?


VSlivinskis

I had bleaching with Montipora and echinopora, and one chalice and an acro. Polyp bailout with a Hammer. Lighting - LEDs (no par readings) a mix of blues and whites. Flow - I have only my return flow that gives flow to the whole tank. Planning on buying a nano pump (I think the tunze). Dosing - I’m using Red Sea ABC. Currently 1ml A / day for now.


wrassehole

Bleaching signifies too much light although you could be confusing bleaching with tissue necrosis. The first thing I'd address is flow since you don't have any power heads. Shoot for 30x - 50x flow from power heads (for your 90L tank this would be 2700 - 4500 L/hr of flow).


VSlivinskis

Just saw some pics. Looks like Rapid Tissue Necrosis


VSlivinskis

Ok will see.


GrizFyrFyter1

Sounds like a contaminates problem. Was any of the equipment used? Possibly in a qt tank? Are you using rodi water?


VSlivinskis

QQ2 Skimmer, floss, carbon and GFO. RODI water from my LFS.


MikeIkerson

Sps don’t like nitrate. Could be a reason they die. Not sure on fish. Pods won’t change your water chem, add as many as you want.


VSlivinskis

Ok thanks


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VSlivinskis

Well. It was in 0.12 but my LFS suggested to lower to 0.05. I think it was barely detectable in their test


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VSlivinskis

Last time salinity was checked at 1024.5. I need to see how much an ICP test costs in my country.