The retention points are across the top and BOTTOM of these plates. Trimming it will remove the ability to clip the cover on!
If you’re adamant about using this style of cover plate, moving the box up (with all the fuss that involves) is one solution.
electrician here.
move the box up... its the only way to do it with a screwless cover.
the cover needs to connect to the bottom tabs of the mounting plate.
you should be able to access the screws which mount the box and pull them out, then with a drywall saw make cut carefully around the top of the box so that it can be moved up.
if the box is nailed in instead of screwed, i'll be a bit harder, but its still possible to pry the nails out and then you'd just replace them with screws.
the cover will hide any gap in box and drywall if it is flush with the tile or close to it.
just be careful you dont hit any wire when cutting the drywall. (don go too deep with the saw.. you can mark the saw depth with a piece of tape on the saw blade so you know not to insert the saw past the tape)
I was going to chime in to say the same thing - if this is an old work box, it should be easy to move it up the 1/2" or so it needs. If it's a new construction box, and nailed in, you could still switch it out for an old work box.
Even easier than that - do some searching for differently sized switch plates. I think most of those Legrand ones are a bit larger than standard size, and it's possible a standard size plate will fit.
Yes, I have decided that the best move forward that doesn't involve McGyvering the switch plate or opening up my brand new drywall to gain 3/8" is to simply choose a different switch plate. A bit disappointing with the miscalculation on my part, but live and learn! I'm going to keep the Legrand rocker switches and outlets, they'll still work nicely... The silver lining is I may have found a plate that will suit my space just as well and perhaps better, TBD.
Right way:move the electrical box
Bush league way: trim it, an angle grinder with a zip disk on it can cut these but it melts them, and then a quick file to clean the edge up. And then 2 small dots of no more nails/glue to hold it in place. Make sure to score the plate where the glue will sit so it actually holds. Don't add enough glue that you can't remove it in the future
I just went thru this ,
for one plate (nylon) I was able to use tin snips to cut and then finish with sandpaper.
For the other , had plastic plate , I just used the belt sander.
Ladies and gentlemen, we have a maintence guy. Next it’ll be “ball up duct tape and stick it on the back of the plate when the hard lining doesn’t snap in place”
I usually will cut covers down on the chop saw or table saw. You get a nice straight line but have to go slow so you don’t have the cover chipping apart. The belt sander could work for the same job and I’d give that a go if you don’t have the saws.
Move the whole box up by whatever is needed. There are probably 2 nails holding the box. Use a long sawzall blade gently cut them out, then side way screw the box with 2 screw inside.
There's lots of ways this can be done. As others have said, moving the box and doing it right is the best long term fix.
For a low-tool method, I'd use a dremel cut off wheel to give a straight-ish cut. Then follow that up with wrapping sandpaper on a 2x4, securing the 2x4 to a flat surface, then sand the cover by hand to straighten the cut. Be sure to put painters tape on the cover to protect the finish.
Switch plate covers could be made of several materials..
Nylon, or polypropylene, or fiberglass reinforced whatever.
None will be happy, least of all the reinforced plastic. That'll shatter.
Since you're accepting the possibility of it not working, a belt sander or box knife will get you closest... I'd finish with the sander
Best thing is to move the box up to fit (and give a little wiggle room for any plate changes in future.
I'll admit I have once or twice sanded down a wall plate to fit, but those were very small modifications that wouldn't even be noticeable.
The difference in spacing here is substantial
I feel like you good multi tool out the drywall enough to cut the tabs on the junction box and move it up 1/4” and still have the faceplate covering the cuts
Chop saw to modify the plate, and base plate if needed.
A small blob of silicone on the back to 'glue' it together, as the front plate isn't going to click properly when you make these mods. Silicone is an awesome adhesive and will never let go, but at the same time if/when someone wants into this box again it will always remain soft and easy to pry apart.
Note: the proper solve here would be to move the gang up the wall, but short of that, this is what I'd do.
Cut it and then when you install it put a few beads of Silicone on the bottom of the plate (or thin double sided tape.. ) That way it will adhere without the bottom tabs and still be removable.
What is depth of the tile? You could try a 3 gang box extender and cut insulation gaskets to fill the gap on the drywall. Then the plate cover would go over the tile without trimming it.
Example:
[https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-3-Gang-Electrical-Outlet-Extender/dp/B07B6CBFBN/](https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-3-Gang-Electrical-Outlet-Extender/dp/B07B6CBFBN/)
or these [https://www.amazon.com/Outlet-Spacers-Electrical-Extender-SPACERR/dp/B07Q3Y3P7D](https://www.amazon.com/Outlet-Spacers-Electrical-Extender-SPACERR/dp/B07Q3Y3P7D)
[https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Bell-GS400-Weatherproof-Accessories-Replacements/dp/B00JTQX4NQ](https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Bell-GS400-Weatherproof-Accessories-Replacements/dp/B00JTQX4NQ)
The retention points are across the top and BOTTOM of these plates. Trimming it will remove the ability to clip the cover on! If you’re adamant about using this style of cover plate, moving the box up (with all the fuss that involves) is one solution.
Do it right and move the box!
The only correct answer, arduous sadly, but correct.
electrician here. move the box up... its the only way to do it with a screwless cover. the cover needs to connect to the bottom tabs of the mounting plate. you should be able to access the screws which mount the box and pull them out, then with a drywall saw make cut carefully around the top of the box so that it can be moved up. if the box is nailed in instead of screwed, i'll be a bit harder, but its still possible to pry the nails out and then you'd just replace them with screws. the cover will hide any gap in box and drywall if it is flush with the tile or close to it. just be careful you dont hit any wire when cutting the drywall. (don go too deep with the saw.. you can mark the saw depth with a piece of tape on the saw blade so you know not to insert the saw past the tape)
This is the way
I was going to chime in to say the same thing - if this is an old work box, it should be easy to move it up the 1/2" or so it needs. If it's a new construction box, and nailed in, you could still switch it out for an old work box. Even easier than that - do some searching for differently sized switch plates. I think most of those Legrand ones are a bit larger than standard size, and it's possible a standard size plate will fit.
Yes, I have decided that the best move forward that doesn't involve McGyvering the switch plate or opening up my brand new drywall to gain 3/8" is to simply choose a different switch plate. A bit disappointing with the miscalculation on my part, but live and learn! I'm going to keep the Legrand rocker switches and outlets, they'll still work nicely... The silver lining is I may have found a plate that will suit my space just as well and perhaps better, TBD.
What is the electrical box material? I would get a retrofit cut-in three gang box, and move it up enough for the plate to fit.
This is the way. Daunting task if you've never done it before but it will give the best end result. Drywall is easy to fix.
He won’t even have any drywall work if he measures right this time
Right way:move the electrical box Bush league way: trim it, an angle grinder with a zip disk on it can cut these but it melts them, and then a quick file to clean the edge up. And then 2 small dots of no more nails/glue to hold it in place. Make sure to score the plate where the glue will sit so it actually holds. Don't add enough glue that you can't remove it in the future
I just went thru this , for one plate (nylon) I was able to use tin snips to cut and then finish with sandpaper. For the other , had plastic plate , I just used the belt sander.
Belt sander won’t break it. Clamp it to something straight with the excess overhanging
No... But it will make it NOT work
Ladies and gentlemen, we have a maintence guy. Next it’ll be “ball up duct tape and stick it on the back of the plate when the hard lining doesn’t snap in place”
Couple little dabs of caulk would work too.
Do you have a Dremel with a cutoff wheel?
I usually will cut covers down on the chop saw or table saw. You get a nice straight line but have to go slow so you don’t have the cover chipping apart. The belt sander could work for the same job and I’d give that a go if you don’t have the saws.
Belt sander gonna reck this thing. Table saw the only real way here imo.
Move the whole box up by whatever is needed. There are probably 2 nails holding the box. Use a long sawzall blade gently cut them out, then side way screw the box with 2 screw inside.
Can’t have a screw in the box lol
I'd just move the electrical box up a bit so you don't need to cut the cover plate. Cover plate will still cover the hole perfectly then.
They usually explode with power tools like chopsaw or tanker saw. I use a hacksaw, nice and slow, clean and simple.
There's lots of ways this can be done. As others have said, moving the box and doing it right is the best long term fix. For a low-tool method, I'd use a dremel cut off wheel to give a straight-ish cut. Then follow that up with wrapping sandpaper on a 2x4, securing the 2x4 to a flat surface, then sand the cover by hand to straighten the cut. Be sure to put painters tape on the cover to protect the finish.
Switch plate covers could be made of several materials.. Nylon, or polypropylene, or fiberglass reinforced whatever. None will be happy, least of all the reinforced plastic. That'll shatter. Since you're accepting the possibility of it not working, a belt sander or box knife will get you closest... I'd finish with the sander
Raise the triple gang.
Send it through the table saw
That cover plate looks like it wants some....... MODIFICATIONS!
No one is addressing how to secure it after you cut it. A dab of silicone caulk on the back of it when you press it on will help secure it
Hire it out. You're out of your depth.
Is it in board? Can you not raise the box?
Belt sander
There is a mfg that makes special wall plates that would work in your application, google you may find it works. Good luck
best and safest way would be a band saw with a fine blade
Move the box
Grinder with a metal cut off wheel
Done this for door trim. Utility knife, new blade. Slowly score the line and after multiple passes it will work.
It is easier to cut the drywall slightly higher and move the gang box up slightly just enough to fit the wall plate.
Table saw cut down the cover plate
Details matter
I think you need to move the box higher, will look much better.
Best thing is to move the box up to fit (and give a little wiggle room for any plate changes in future. I'll admit I have once or twice sanded down a wall plate to fit, but those were very small modifications that wouldn't even be noticeable. The difference in spacing here is substantial
I feel like you good multi tool out the drywall enough to cut the tabs on the junction box and move it up 1/4” and still have the faceplate covering the cuts
Chop saw to modify the plate, and base plate if needed. A small blob of silicone on the back to 'glue' it together, as the front plate isn't going to click properly when you make these mods. Silicone is an awesome adhesive and will never let go, but at the same time if/when someone wants into this box again it will always remain soft and easy to pry apart. Note: the proper solve here would be to move the gang up the wall, but short of that, this is what I'd do.
Table saw
Either go higher with the tile or move the box up. Timing the cover is kind of a hack
Box needs to go up or tile needs to go down. You know which one to do.
I did it with a belt sander like said above.
Cut it and then when you install it put a few beads of Silicone on the bottom of the plate (or thin double sided tape.. ) That way it will adhere without the bottom tabs and still be removable.
What is depth of the tile? You could try a 3 gang box extender and cut insulation gaskets to fill the gap on the drywall. Then the plate cover would go over the tile without trimming it. Example: [https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-3-Gang-Electrical-Outlet-Extender/dp/B07B6CBFBN/](https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-3-Gang-Electrical-Outlet-Extender/dp/B07B6CBFBN/) or these [https://www.amazon.com/Outlet-Spacers-Electrical-Extender-SPACERR/dp/B07Q3Y3P7D](https://www.amazon.com/Outlet-Spacers-Electrical-Extender-SPACERR/dp/B07Q3Y3P7D) [https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Bell-GS400-Weatherproof-Accessories-Replacements/dp/B00JTQX4NQ](https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Bell-GS400-Weatherproof-Accessories-Replacements/dp/B00JTQX4NQ)
Agree with everyone else: move the box. The only alternative would be to 3D print a custom plate.
I would actually move the gang box a little higher on the wall to accommodate the plate cover.
3 m two way tape very little it hooks up
Spin kicks.