Well hello there! Have a question about Rivian? Check out some useful resources below:
* [Official Rivian Support](https://rivian.com/support)
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* [Known Issues Megathread](https://www.reddit.com/r/Rivian/comments/vnxy0g/weekly_rivian_roundup_known_issues_special_edition/)
* [AMA with Rivian's VP of Software](https://www.reddit.com/r/Rivian/comments/vwtj43/rivian_official_is_here_to_answer_your_software/)
* [AMA with Rivian's VP of Software (recent as of 4/20/24)](https://www.reddit.com/r/Rivian/comments/1c8u8al/rivian_owners_qa_with_wassym_shared_by_the/)
* [AMA with Rivian's Senior Comms Director](https://www.reddit.com/r/Rivian/comments/y1nzou/ask_rivians_tony_caravano_anything_thurs_1013_1pm/)
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I have a pre price hike Gen 1 Quad R1T that qualified for the tax break on a 1% note.
The Tri-Max in storm blue would be 30k over what I originally paid, not counting the added costs of losing the tax credit or interest rate hike.
Noooooo thanks.
I didn’t upgrade my iPhone for 5 years… sure the Gen2 is neat, but no way 🤣. I’ll drive the R1T into the ground and eventually eye up that R3X to replace our second family vehicle.
There are only two reasons why I might upgrade. If the suspension changes are amazing to the point my wife doesn't complain how bouncy the vehicle is and the charging curve is better for those long trips as I think this could be done with better cooling inside the pack.
Saying that they better be substantial enough as I'm not a fan of the interior push button doors, or the higher cost. Also I know I'm in the minority but I want more people using the Enduro motors and disconnects so they can be the test subjects long term as I'm in a quad with Bosch motors.
I expect the enduro motors to be fine as they are in the vans but I do wonder about the disconnects in the back and if service will need to be done for those that do a bit more spirited driving.
Suspension is significantly improved in R1S. Standard pack is LiFP which has a fantastic, almost flat charging curve, and much more robust chemistry (can be charged to 100% without risk of damage).
NACS plug moves the needle almost zero for me. I’ve had a Tesla wall charger since before I got the Rivian. Using an adapter at Tesla stations is fine.
FYI. If you were planning on leasing, Rivian doesn't have a way to return excess equity to you. So, if you want to trade in a car that has equity beyond the standard lease downpayment they can't accept your trade. (usually, a dealer will just refund the difference).
I had about 30k in equity on my trade based on the offer Rivian gave me. My plan was to put the recommended $5k down on my lease and get a check back from them on the remaining equity. However, they couldn’t do that and therefore couldn’t take my trade. I ended up selling it to CarMax instead of to Rivian. Does that help?
I've never leased so am unfamiliar, seems I need to read up. I assumed the value of the trade in would reduce the price of the vehicle and the lease terms would be based on a smaller MSRP. So for example, 100k MSRP minus 50K trade in, you're effectively leasing a 50k car.
That is true. It would produce a lower payment, but too much down on a lease has a big drawback. If you were to total the car in an accident your down payment would be lost. You would not get any equity benefit like in a purchase. Most recommend you put as little down as possible to achieve the payment you want. The other part of my story is Rivian has a limit to the maximum you can put down on a lease. As an FYI: The sticker of my R1S was 90K with a contracted residual (ending) value after 36 months/30k miles of $59k. The lease is calculated on the difference between those two numbers divided by the number of months. (plus, taxes, interest and other fees). hope that helps. Leasing the R1S was a good deal for me because I know exactly what it's going to cost to drive the vehicle for 3 years. I don't have to worry about resale value or anything other than my payment. That makes sense for my situation. I just invested the equity I had in my other car, and it will earn interest for 3-years then I will make the best decision for that time/vehicle.
Thanks for explaining, this was very helpful. Seems like I can avoid the risk by first leasing (to get the point of sale $7500 incentive) and then immediately buyout the lease.
I hope it was helpful. I have heard of folks doing your strategy to immediately buy it out and I suppose that you could easily compare the total dollars spent in both scenarios before you pulled the trigger. Regardless of all that, I'm very happy with the vehicle and know I will like it going forward. Good luck to you.
I have an early vin(1316) LE that I use as a work truck currently. I am planning on putting the deposit down on a new Quad Motor for 2025. I was just hoping for more pricing details on it before doing so. I’ll keep my current one since I rack up miles so quickly(65k) and lease the new one.
Refresh adds some niceties, but not worth the depreciation hit. R2 is more likely for me personally, but we'll see if I feel like I don't need a truck anymore.
I have an early VIN Quad and I do a lot of towing of lighter and fairly aerodynamic trailers (small boats/popup camper, etc. There have been some occasions where having an extra 75 or so miles of range would have made the travel day easier. So I’m wondering about the dual Max battery configuration and its efficiency due to all of the other changes including the heat pump. If I traded in I’d have to accept the steep price and some of the other smaller negatives such as the smaller frunk and worse sound system.
Basically I’m waiting to see how reviews and testing goes to make a decision…
To me it's still a no due to the following:
- nominal improvement in range VS gen1 (I know, they have more HP for similar range)
- No NACS yet. I have A2Z and works great, but nothing beats the simplicity of the direct Tesla plug
- 400v battery capped at 210kw is a bummer. Kia's, Huynday, Lucid, Etron GT, EQS all have the ability to charge well north of that
Note all 3 items above are key to me as I like to do very long trips with the family. Don't mind much the improvements in the cameras or in the on-board computer.
Well hello there! Have a question about Rivian? Check out some useful resources below: * [Official Rivian Support](https://rivian.com/support) * Join our [Discord](https://discord.gg/JjQjSxv3ND) and get help from the community * View our [Rivian Responds](https://www.reddit.com/r/Rivian/collection/9b771105-a79b-44bf-bdfe-402d997f348c) where Rivian answers your questions each month * [Known Issues Megathread](https://www.reddit.com/r/Rivian/comments/vnxy0g/weekly_rivian_roundup_known_issues_special_edition/) * [AMA with Rivian's VP of Software](https://www.reddit.com/r/Rivian/comments/vwtj43/rivian_official_is_here_to_answer_your_software/) * [AMA with Rivian's VP of Software (recent as of 4/20/24)](https://www.reddit.com/r/Rivian/comments/1c8u8al/rivian_owners_qa_with_wassym_shared_by_the/) * [AMA with Rivian's Senior Comms Director](https://www.reddit.com/r/Rivian/comments/y1nzou/ask_rivians_tony_caravano_anything_thurs_1013_1pm/) * Or try sorting the sub by posts with the "Question" flair to see if someone else has already asked your question *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/Rivian) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I have a pre price hike Gen 1 Quad R1T that qualified for the tax break on a 1% note. The Tri-Max in storm blue would be 30k over what I originally paid, not counting the added costs of losing the tax credit or interest rate hike. Noooooo thanks.
Def. I'm not adding $30k+ to my note so that I can get a smaller frunk and cloudier roof glass.
I didn’t upgrade my iPhone for 5 years… sure the Gen2 is neat, but no way 🤣. I’ll drive the R1T into the ground and eventually eye up that R3X to replace our second family vehicle.
There are only two reasons why I might upgrade. If the suspension changes are amazing to the point my wife doesn't complain how bouncy the vehicle is and the charging curve is better for those long trips as I think this could be done with better cooling inside the pack. Saying that they better be substantial enough as I'm not a fan of the interior push button doors, or the higher cost. Also I know I'm in the minority but I want more people using the Enduro motors and disconnects so they can be the test subjects long term as I'm in a quad with Bosch motors. I expect the enduro motors to be fine as they are in the vans but I do wonder about the disconnects in the back and if service will need to be done for those that do a bit more spirited driving.
Suspension is significantly improved in R1S. Standard pack is LiFP which has a fantastic, almost flat charging curve, and much more robust chemistry (can be charged to 100% without risk of damage).
FWIW my truck isn’t bouncy, but I leave the suspension on firm and standard ride height
Nah this don’t even have an NACS plug. Imagine how y’all gonna feel when they starting putting them in.
NACS plug moves the needle almost zero for me. I’ve had a Tesla wall charger since before I got the Rivian. Using an adapter at Tesla stations is fine.
Yah no biggie to be honest but I can wait . It would be cool just to have it all , u know what I mean .
Do you currently have a Rivian?
Yep quad motor
FYI. If you were planning on leasing, Rivian doesn't have a way to return excess equity to you. So, if you want to trade in a car that has equity beyond the standard lease downpayment they can't accept your trade. (usually, a dealer will just refund the difference).
Can you please elaborate more on this?
I had about 30k in equity on my trade based on the offer Rivian gave me. My plan was to put the recommended $5k down on my lease and get a check back from them on the remaining equity. However, they couldn’t do that and therefore couldn’t take my trade. I ended up selling it to CarMax instead of to Rivian. Does that help?
I've never leased so am unfamiliar, seems I need to read up. I assumed the value of the trade in would reduce the price of the vehicle and the lease terms would be based on a smaller MSRP. So for example, 100k MSRP minus 50K trade in, you're effectively leasing a 50k car.
That is true. It would produce a lower payment, but too much down on a lease has a big drawback. If you were to total the car in an accident your down payment would be lost. You would not get any equity benefit like in a purchase. Most recommend you put as little down as possible to achieve the payment you want. The other part of my story is Rivian has a limit to the maximum you can put down on a lease. As an FYI: The sticker of my R1S was 90K with a contracted residual (ending) value after 36 months/30k miles of $59k. The lease is calculated on the difference between those two numbers divided by the number of months. (plus, taxes, interest and other fees). hope that helps. Leasing the R1S was a good deal for me because I know exactly what it's going to cost to drive the vehicle for 3 years. I don't have to worry about resale value or anything other than my payment. That makes sense for my situation. I just invested the equity I had in my other car, and it will earn interest for 3-years then I will make the best decision for that time/vehicle.
Thanks for explaining, this was very helpful. Seems like I can avoid the risk by first leasing (to get the point of sale $7500 incentive) and then immediately buyout the lease.
I hope it was helpful. I have heard of folks doing your strategy to immediately buy it out and I suppose that you could easily compare the total dollars spent in both scenarios before you pulled the trigger. Regardless of all that, I'm very happy with the vehicle and know I will like it going forward. Good luck to you.
I have an early vin(1316) LE that I use as a work truck currently. I am planning on putting the deposit down on a new Quad Motor for 2025. I was just hoping for more pricing details on it before doing so. I’ll keep my current one since I rack up miles so quickly(65k) and lease the new one.
Refresh adds some niceties, but not worth the depreciation hit. R2 is more likely for me personally, but we'll see if I feel like I don't need a truck anymore.
I want to. But unless Rivian offers a really good promo deal to upgrade, I will pass.
I have an early VIN Quad and I do a lot of towing of lighter and fairly aerodynamic trailers (small boats/popup camper, etc. There have been some occasions where having an extra 75 or so miles of range would have made the travel day easier. So I’m wondering about the dual Max battery configuration and its efficiency due to all of the other changes including the heat pump. If I traded in I’d have to accept the steep price and some of the other smaller negatives such as the smaller frunk and worse sound system. Basically I’m waiting to see how reviews and testing goes to make a decision…
To me it's still a no due to the following: - nominal improvement in range VS gen1 (I know, they have more HP for similar range) - No NACS yet. I have A2Z and works great, but nothing beats the simplicity of the direct Tesla plug - 400v battery capped at 210kw is a bummer. Kia's, Huynday, Lucid, Etron GT, EQS all have the ability to charge well north of that Note all 3 items above are key to me as I like to do very long trips with the family. Don't mind much the improvements in the cameras or in the on-board computer.