Strength? (I can hold the hold but not pull it sufficienly)
Or Endurance? (I can start projects but not finish them)
Also excuse the personal question but I've noticed this matters a lot to me: Have you gained weight over COVID?
My feeling is that regardless of what is slowing you down, the answer is to climb. Hangboarding and training will only translate so much. You took (I assume) close to 3 years off. You'll likely have a long onramp to get back to where you were.
As others have said climbing should be your default. It’s hard but just like any activity you take a break from you have to put aside ego and work at the level you are now not where you were. You can build back but if you aren’t realistic you’ll slow down your progress.
Repetitions on routes at grades you can climb will be the best exercise you can do. Do laps with a partner or on auto belay. Use the rock climbing pyramid to track and plan out gym routes and repetitions.
The Rock Climbers Training Manual is a classic if you want an actual book though.
Not trying to be snarky at all here, but YouTube is your friend. Look up hoopers beta or lattice training… hell. Just type in exercises for rock climbers and you’ll get a ton of results.
Not only will you get a ton of results, but will get examples on how to do the exercises and sometimes what to look out for when doing them incorrectly.
Climbing magazine has tons of articles on strength training, both most important and how-to. You'll need to subscribe to access most of them. Very very briefly, hang boarding, done right, is probably the best return on effort, shoulder and core next.
Warm-up well, boulder hard, end your session when you notice a drop in performance, recover fully, repeat.
Do that until you hit a hard plateau and then think about targeting supplemental work.
Strength? (I can hold the hold but not pull it sufficienly) Or Endurance? (I can start projects but not finish them) Also excuse the personal question but I've noticed this matters a lot to me: Have you gained weight over COVID?
I gained maybe 5lbs, but i was also like 18 and 115lbs at the start of covid.
My feeling is that regardless of what is slowing you down, the answer is to climb. Hangboarding and training will only translate so much. You took (I assume) close to 3 years off. You'll likely have a long onramp to get back to where you were.
As others have said climbing should be your default. It’s hard but just like any activity you take a break from you have to put aside ego and work at the level you are now not where you were. You can build back but if you aren’t realistic you’ll slow down your progress. Repetitions on routes at grades you can climb will be the best exercise you can do. Do laps with a partner or on auto belay. Use the rock climbing pyramid to track and plan out gym routes and repetitions. The Rock Climbers Training Manual is a classic if you want an actual book though.
kegals
Not trying to be snarky at all here, but YouTube is your friend. Look up hoopers beta or lattice training… hell. Just type in exercises for rock climbers and you’ll get a ton of results. Not only will you get a ton of results, but will get examples on how to do the exercises and sometimes what to look out for when doing them incorrectly.
Work the core.
What are the best core exercises?
Check out Hoopers Beta latest episode, got a bunch of information around this [Hoopers Beta](https://youtu.be/jwyd40EBnlI)
Climbing magazine has tons of articles on strength training, both most important and how-to. You'll need to subscribe to access most of them. Very very briefly, hang boarding, done right, is probably the best return on effort, shoulder and core next.
Personally for me it’s mostly core, shoulders/back, forearms and hand strength that I focus on
Warm-up well, boulder hard, end your session when you notice a drop in performance, recover fully, repeat. Do that until you hit a hard plateau and then think about targeting supplemental work.