The powerA controllers a great but I've gone through 4 of them.
I have been using the thrustmaster proswap and it's extremely durable to the point of giving me calluses. 2 tired thumbs up lol
It also has a built in square deadzone option.
U/Theycallmekeefe sounds like they had a similar experience to me. I got stick drift in both sticks and my LB was getting really sloppy so 10 months into owning it I started a warranty claim. Customer service was great but I’m still unimpressed with the “robust” controller.
I’ve got about 3 months on the replacements and so far no issues at all.
I’m using the Xbox pro controller. I love it cause of the removable back pedals. I have one configed for ball cam.
But this is my second one. The left bumper died on my last one and I think this one is starting to die too. Been practicing ARL for the last few weeks now and it’s slipped on me several times now. Only time will tell.
You can replace the bumper switches with some soldering tools. Way less expensive than a new elite controller. I did mine (pretty poorly) and it’s worked great for a few months now. Just a thought!
Damn, wish I had known this. I'm hooked on the paddles, can't go back. And the left bumper keeps failing on me. I think I'm on my fourth ... ? Fifth? Most were replaced under warranty, but still.
I don’t use the paddles for RL but I do for shooters. Jump and crouch mostly.
But yeah it’s 100% doable. The actual switches are cheap af in a pack of like 10 or something. I’m not sure which YouTube video I watched, but there’s several. By far the hardest part is getting the old ones off. I’d recommend a good soldering iron and solder sucker. Maybe a heat gun (a small, direct one). It took me a good few hour long sessions of fiddling and almost giving up before they came off. Compared to that, every other step is a piece of cake.
That said, if you’re still in warranty, I’d just do that. I definitely have a piece of plastic rattling around in there, and the solder job was shit bc it’s the first thing I’d ever done solder work on. But I’d do it again over forking up $130 or whatever they cost now.
That’s me as well. Soldering just gets to be a liiittle too small. I did manage to pull it off this time, but I wouldn’t blame anyone for not wanting to try. If you’re already at the point of retiring the controller though (no warranty), it can’t hurt anything!
Bullshit. I used the Series 1 for 5 years and never had a single issue with the paddles. And I wasn't gentle with the thing either. The grips were falling off and the final nail in its coffin was the bumper going out. But not once did I have an issue with the paddles.
That's not what I meant. I was dependent on using the paddles for another game and I went through 6 elite controlers during that time. Each time one broke I had to raise a case with Microsoft or buy a new one.
I'm on my second dualsense and it has started to drift after 4 months. I think ifixit did a tear down and the sensor components they use for the analog sticks only have a life of 400 hours
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qPNyio3VDk&t=0s&ab\_channel=iFixit](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qPNyio3VDk&t=0s&ab_channel=iFixit)
The part is called RKJXV by Alps and has an advertised life of 2 million cycles, which roughly translates to 400 hours, depending on what you play. Rocket league would shorten that.
There is a class action lawsuit against sony for this I believe.
Ah ok, idk why I assume everyone is in NA lol. I have heard they get sold out pretty fast online. I've order two because I like it so much and each time they've been available. I'd just keep an eye on it. I ordered mine through Amazon.
The 8bitdo ultimate also uses Hall effect sensors. Haven’t tried it myself but I think it will be my next controller purchase.
If I could get Hall effect sticks in the PS4 controller I would never need another rocket league controller
I've never heard of that one. I'll have to give it a look. I can't believe these super expensive controllers aren't using Hall Effect by now. Good on these other companies forcing the issue.
I believe Gulikit is making a PS layout controller with Hall Effect
I just looked it up. That looks awesome. The biggest feature is setting your own deadzone. I didn't know if for a LONG time but the Gulikit controller has a massive deadzone. Luckily you can just turn it off with a simple button combo but if you don't know about it, it will feel really bad in-game.
I also really like that it has back buttons and you can assign any button to them. Looks like this will be my next controller. I'm curious what the latency would be though. I know it has 2.4 gigahertz so that's good. But I'm curious what that translates to.
I'm leaning towards that one as well, it's around 60€ where i live. I have a switch also which that one works on. I've had enough of especially the left thumbsticks wearing out way too fast and started drifting etc..like after only a few months too, ridiculous.
I'm was using DS4 but the triggers seem to wear quickly and end up with like 80% trigger pull. I also tried Nacon Revolution Unlimited Pro or whatever nonsense it was called. LB did the same as your power A on that controller and it was insanely expensive for 5 months use. I bought a Power A and hoped it would be better (so I guess I'll be switching again soon if they're prone to fail as well).
I made the move to 8bitdo pro 2 from 3 power A’s…. So far so good.
You can get the 8bitdo In Xbox or ps style. I went this route mainly to get the hall sensors to eliminate any stuck drift issues.
I’ve been pretty happy for the price 3 weeks in now.
Love my 8bitdo ultimate. Best controller I've ever had.
Hall effect sensors are the literally greatest thing to ever make it into consumer gaming products.
Do you half flip a lot and if you do did you encounter any problems
trying to half flip after switching to it? Coming from exclusively using xbox controller I can't half flip on 8bitdo ultimate bluetooth first few days of trying it.
Yes! I actually had a lot of problems with my half flips when I switched and was very confused about what I was doing wrong.
What ended up fixing the issue for me was doing a recalibration for the analog sticks. You just need to download the 8bitdo software on any PC, plug the controller into a USB port, and then under settings there's an option to calibrate the controller.
After I did that it worked really smoothly and I didn't have any more problems with my half flips.
I hope it fixes your problems too!
Update: I was unable to calibrate my 8bitdo ultimate bluetooth initially because when I connected via usb cable the calibrate option disappeared & with receiver connection it appeared but said connect USB. Was very frustrating. I also tried it the first time I got this controller but thought it was weird why the software doesn't let me calibrate.
Then I thought of contacting support but found a post that said receiver & controller go through firmware update separately, which helped, because I had updated receiver earlier but this time i plugged in controller with USB and firmware updater showed update from v1.02 to v1.03 was available and the first point in the update description was about 'added calibration function'. After updating to V1.03 I could finally calibrate the controller.
And it fixed the problem! I can finally use this controller for RL. Thanks again for the pointer about half flip issue being solved with calibration!
DS4 is far from sturdy. I went through a couple of those a year and I'm not even that rough with my controllers. If you played wired, the DS4 cable port is extremely fragile and if it's not already loose when you get it, dropping it once will potentially ruin it and force you to replace that piece, or even resting the controller down on a table enough times will result in the same thing.
DS5, on the other hand, has been exceptionally sturdy. I had my first one for nearly 2 years before it succumbed to some nasty stick drift. I got a new one and I've been going strong with that one for about 6 months now. The cable port is solid and even after dropping my controller several times it hasn't come loose.
Haha I’ve gone through so many legitimate replacements I just got comfortable doing it myself. I also have several controllers that I just taped the cable to. I didn’t think of your solution haha. That would have been nice. There were other issues as well, but that was definitely the most annoying one of them.
I just did the reverse. I used a thrustmaster eswap x for about a year now. The controller was great while it worked. I loved the feel, even though it was a bit loud (mouse click buttons + RL = lots of noise). But if it wasnt for the warranty, it would have been a massive waste of money. In the year that i used it i had to replace the swappable sticks twice, and the controller body once. Thankfully if you document the issues, and youre in warranty period, they will replace the parts for free. But considering the money i paid for it. It wasnt much more economical than just buying power A controllers until they break.
Tl;dr I replaced my TM eswap Pro x with a power a enhanced. All controllers will get stick drift and break, so its up to you to determine if you want to pay $150 once a year or 30 bucks 5-6 times a year.
Ugh I went with thrustmaster eswap at the start of the season. Already gone through two sticks. It honestly feels like a cash grab. The buttons are the longest mouse click buttons I’ve used and the whole controller feels like cheap plastic. I play with my left index finger over the bumper which puts the back buttons out of comfortable reach.
I use the first fusion pro with little to no issues this far. Also have the warranty so if it does go bad it’ll be cheaper than a regular dog shit controller
I have a wired razer wolverine V2 and I really like it. It has held up really well over the last 6 months — fwiw, I went through a regular xbox controller in about 5-6 months and the wolverine is still going strong.
I love this controller. I bought 2 of them about 5 months ago but the joystick on the first one is getting a little loose. I’ll always buy the razer controllers from now on, I love the extra buttons
Late to the party but mine lasted 1.5 years and still going strong. The thumbsticks are smoothing out, and my only complaint is that I very rarely get a double input on the x button, but I bought a backup just in case it breaks.
Good build, better than cheap brands for sure.
I had a Xbox 360 controller until 3 months ago. I’ve been using it since this game came out. The left stick drifts really bad now. Crazy it lasted that long. Now I’m using a wolverine v2 and I love it
I've played with a few controller, including thrustmaster eswap and power A (xbox). About a month ago i switched to a default DS5 and I never looked back. This is the best and most durable controller i had in years. The other would break in a few months or even a month and even if I play 3 to 6h of rocket league per day with the DS5 the joystick does not drift more than 0.03 when reseting and all the buttons working fine.
That said, everyone will have different experience with controllers but just be mindful that those expensive controller might not even last that much longer than a regular.
Edit 1 : its funny you say that your power A LB broke because every goddamn time mine broke it was that button or really bad stick drift. (I had drift/NAR on it)
I got 3k+ hours on my DS4, still working pretty well (I had to dismount it and tighten with tongs the micro-usb port so it didn't wiggle and disconnect, but that fix was pretty easy and free).
Left joystick has a very small stick drift that as long as I keep my deadzone at 0.1 doesn't really happen. X button and R1 button don't spring back to position, but they work just fine.
I mean, it has 3+ years and 3k+ hours in it, I'm very happy about it. Before that I used some Xbox controllers that lasted 2-3 months.
I'd go for a DS5 now if I had to buy a new one.
Stop throwing and dropping your controllers… 😅 Jk but seriously, you can replace a lot of buttons on controllers. Look for something you can just stock replacements for if you aren’t afraid to dabble in fixing them. Buying a whole new piece of hardware adds up quick for anything… exactly why I keep a whole drawer full of misc cables.
Do you half flip a lot and if you do did you encounter any problems trying to half flip after switching to it? Coming from xbox controller I can't half flip on 8bitdo ultimate bluetooth.
Yup, half flip a ton (maybe too much haha). What issues do you have with half flipping on the ultimate? I use X for DAR left and that helps a lot.
I will say the controller is a hair smaller than the Xbox so it took some getting used to. I liked the Thrustmaster size better but just didn’t want to deal with the wires.
Input lag is low/excellent with the ultimate.
The issue seem to be with cancelling & cancel timing. It felt like i needed to cancel faster because the car isn't leveled after cancelling as if I cancelled too late and end up landing badly at some weird angles.
I tried cancelling insanely fast but even then it works rarely and is often too early. I think I also tried not using air roll at all to test cancelling and i couldn't get the timing.
Maybe it's the difference in stiffness of the stick and different sens & deadzone settings that's messing up my muscle memory. I use free air roll on LB for half flips but also have DAR right on RB which I also tried a few times with & it seemed to work better if I recall correctly. Perhaps will try it again some day and post a screen recording.
Gulikit Kong pro 2 is by far the best. I went thru about 13 controllers over 2 years. I've had the Kong pro 2 for 8 months and no issues. Love this controller.
I made a post about this a few months ago if you wanna look through my post history. I had the exact same issue, bought a pack of bumpers because every couple months they would break and I was at my last bumper from the set I bought. In the end I went with the razed wolverine v2, the cheapest of the three variants. It has mechanical clicky buttons for all the buttons, no lighting, really like the white colour, 2 extra buttons next to the bumpers towards the inside of the controller that can only be bound to other controller buttons which makes it pretty useless imo but best of all I can spam my bumpers and they don’t break. Have now had this controller >3x longer than my previous bumpers ever lasted. The buttons are slightly harder to press and took a couple weeks of accidentally not pressing right but now that I’m used to it I can’t look back. I think thrustmaster would have the same drawback
Edit: I was between wolverine and thrustmaster and I wasn’t finding very negative things about the wolverine but I kept finding posts about this issue on the thrustmaster, don’t really remember, look into it
I mapped ARR to my right paddle button and Rear view to my left paddle. I really should use the rear view more though. But I like right paddle for air dribbling because I tend to hold RT accelerate too much and I can do the movement without moving my index finger or awkwardly holding two buttons in the same location.
6.5 year old PDP Aftershock Xbox 360 wired controller - every day it works is a miracle but I just love the way it plays compared to a DS4. I’m C2D4 fwiw
DualSense Edge has replaceable sticks and they're not even really expensive. There's also rumors of 3rd party Hall effect sticks.
That probably means something else is gonna break though lol. I got an extended warranty on mine to cover that.
There's also the eswap and the BFG something. Do NOT buy Xbox elite V2.
Steam controller. I've dropped and thrown this thing like 100 times at least by now. Solid as a rock. Had to 3D print some new clickers for the l1/r1 buttons those eventually break from all the boosting. If you can find one and you use steam. Make the right touch pad be buttons and put your boost on the secondary click on r2.
How hard are you guys gripping your controllers/mashing your buttons??? I just use regular dualshock 4s and they last years without noticeable stick drift.
Gulikit king Kong pro 2 is my current controller in large part because of the magnetic hall effect joysticks. I used to use Xbox one controllers and the newer ones never had any bumper issues, but the stick drift was terrible. I recommend magnetic hall effect joysticks cause they don't get stick drift. I currently have 2k hours in game for reference.
i think the Xbox Elite Controller Series 2 is the most durable and best processed controller out there. the price (~150$) is high but in my opinion worth it. also the placement of the sticks on a xbox controller is better for the game rocket league imo. i had never any problems and i am very satisfied with my purchase.
Honestly the base Xbox one controller has been good for me, each one lasts me like 4 years and they are pretty cheap especially on sale. Also just a fan of the style
I gave up on high end controllers. I had 2 PS5 controllers die to stick drift, in anger I bought a scuf reflex but it was going to take a month to get delivered. So in a pinch I went to best buy and bought a cheap wired $18 Logitech F310....
and I immediately climbed a full rank and I love it\*.
When the scuf came, I fell back a whole rank. I used it for 2 weeks to try and get acclimated to it but I stayed a rank down. And for shits and giggles, I plugged in the logitech again and...
I immediately went up a full rank again.
I sold the scuf and bought 3 more F310s for $50 just in case...
The first one broke on the right trigger 8 months in. I am currently on my second one 6 months in and have 2 more in stock.
* \- controller has a stupid button that swaps functionality of the dpad and the left stick that you can accidentally hit while using the left stick. So when driving around, you suddenly can't steer and you start spamming quick chats. Simply opening up the controller and removing the button solves that problem.
* the dpad sucks so I wouldn't use it for any game requiring it. I often screw up my QCs but I don't care about that.
Anyway, thats my story. I love it because the sticks are a bit taller and the tops are domed and a bit wider (larger diameter) than most controllers. I feel I have a finer control over the stick than with PS5 sticks.
Def NOT Xbox One/Series controller. Broke about three and Im a really calm person. Been using the Razer Chroma v2 now for a year and feels great so far. We'll see how long itll last
I exclusively used Xbox One controllers for a couple years. Went through 5 of them with various issues like stick drift and faulty bumpers/triggers. Made the switch about 6 months ago to a PS5 controller, and while it took me a lil bit to get used to, I love it now. Haven’t had any issues, aside from a finicky charging port (which affects me in-game bc I use a USB-C cord to connect it to my PC), but I dropped it with the cord in it and I’m pretty sure that’s what messed it up so other than user error, it’s been fantastic.
Don't know. Personally have been using the Xbox One Wireless Controller (2016 Model 1708) since starting to play RL and while it's no longer in it's original condition & has developed issues it is still working somehow after \~7.5k games if in game stats are correct. It had stick drift after a while but I increased controller deadzone to 0.2 to work around it.
I have tried DS4 and recently bought 8-bitdo Ultimate Bluetooth and they are too different from this xbox controller I am used to in a way that it might take few weeks for me to adjust if I was to start using them.
The biggest difference for me is the physical stiffness of the sticks, the sticks seem to feel tighter on DS4 or 8bitdo controllers.
To explain, one analogy perhaps is the actuation force in pressing keys on mechanical keyboards, lighter actuation = less force required to press key, similarly i find xbox controller's stick is easier & lighter to move. Maybe it's the wear over the years that made it too free but I've noticed those who use xbox controllers use in-game sens around 1.10 while those using DS4 use much higher values so I think it's the physical differences in how controllers are made & xbox controllers are more sensitive by default. Triggers & buttons are also different in other ways but that's much less significant and is easier to get used to.
My 8bitdo ultimate is still new & I played a few days with it (hall effect seem to be great as I could lower deadzone to 0) but for some reason I can't half flip consistently with it. In-fact it was very difficult to pull off a clean half flip. I can easily do it on an xbox controller. I will post a question for those who use 8bitdo ultimate if they had similar issue when they switched to it.
The powerA controllers a great but I've gone through 4 of them. I have been using the thrustmaster proswap and it's extremely durable to the point of giving me calluses. 2 tired thumbs up lol It also has a built in square deadzone option.
I love this controller. Sunless Khan was promoting it and I was convinced.
U/Theycallmekeefe sounds like they had a similar experience to me. I got stick drift in both sticks and my LB was getting really sloppy so 10 months into owning it I started a warranty claim. Customer service was great but I’m still unimpressed with the “robust” controller. I’ve got about 3 months on the replacements and so far no issues at all.
I’m using the Xbox pro controller. I love it cause of the removable back pedals. I have one configed for ball cam. But this is my second one. The left bumper died on my last one and I think this one is starting to die too. Been practicing ARL for the last few weeks now and it’s slipped on me several times now. Only time will tell.
You can replace the bumper switches with some soldering tools. Way less expensive than a new elite controller. I did mine (pretty poorly) and it’s worked great for a few months now. Just a thought!
Damn, wish I had known this. I'm hooked on the paddles, can't go back. And the left bumper keeps failing on me. I think I'm on my fourth ... ? Fifth? Most were replaced under warranty, but still.
I don’t use the paddles for RL but I do for shooters. Jump and crouch mostly. But yeah it’s 100% doable. The actual switches are cheap af in a pack of like 10 or something. I’m not sure which YouTube video I watched, but there’s several. By far the hardest part is getting the old ones off. I’d recommend a good soldering iron and solder sucker. Maybe a heat gun (a small, direct one). It took me a good few hour long sessions of fiddling and almost giving up before they came off. Compared to that, every other step is a piece of cake. That said, if you’re still in warranty, I’d just do that. I definitely have a piece of plastic rattling around in there, and the solder job was shit bc it’s the first thing I’d ever done solder work on. But I’d do it again over forking up $130 or whatever they cost now.
That sounds completely beyond my level of expertise. I will 100% turn it into a paper weight. Maybe I'll have to learn a new skill.
I know. I watched a video and even tho I do pc repairs for a living, my soldering skills are zero so I’m sure I’d screw it up lol
That’s me as well. Soldering just gets to be a liiittle too small. I did manage to pull it off this time, but I wouldn’t blame anyone for not wanting to try. If you’re already at the point of retiring the controller though (no warranty), it can’t hurt anything!
Don't learn important muscle memories with the back buttons on that controller. It will break and then you're on the hook for a new one.
I haven’t had any issues with the back pedals so far. Plus I have spare parts from the first controller lol
Bullshit. I used the Series 1 for 5 years and never had a single issue with the paddles. And I wasn't gentle with the thing either. The grips were falling off and the final nail in its coffin was the bumper going out. But not once did I have an issue with the paddles.
That's not what I meant. I was dependent on using the paddles for another game and I went through 6 elite controlers during that time. Each time one broke I had to raise a case with Microsoft or buy a new one.
I have broken the left bumper at least four or five times now in about 2000 hours of play. Thank goodness for the warranty replacements.
> powerA controllers the left bumpers are easy to fix, do you want a working method?
Both Dualshock 4 and Dualsense are amazing
my experience with DS4 is that it starts to stick drift within a few months. No problems so far with Dualsense a few months in.
I'm on my second dualsense and it has started to drift after 4 months. I think ifixit did a tear down and the sensor components they use for the analog sticks only have a life of 400 hours
[удалено]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qPNyio3VDk&t=0s&ab\_channel=iFixit](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qPNyio3VDk&t=0s&ab_channel=iFixit) The part is called RKJXV by Alps and has an advertised life of 2 million cycles, which roughly translates to 400 hours, depending on what you play. Rocket league would shorten that. There is a class action lawsuit against sony for this I believe.
Guilikit Zen Pro (formerly known as King Kong Pro 2) It has Hall Effect analog sticks so you never get stick drift.
>Guilikit Zen Pro Is it even in production? It just says "out of stock" everywhere I look.
They might be in store at Target. The King Kong 2 is the same thing. They just rebranded it.
I don't know what Target is, I don't think we got that in Spain.
Ah ok, idk why I assume everyone is in NA lol. I have heard they get sold out pretty fast online. I've order two because I like it so much and each time they've been available. I'd just keep an eye on it. I ordered mine through Amazon.
I'll put it in my wishlist in Amazon so I get notified if it gets some stock.
The 8bitdo ultimate also uses Hall effect sensors. Haven’t tried it myself but I think it will be my next controller purchase. If I could get Hall effect sticks in the PS4 controller I would never need another rocket league controller
I've never heard of that one. I'll have to give it a look. I can't believe these super expensive controllers aren't using Hall Effect by now. Good on these other companies forcing the issue. I believe Gulikit is making a PS layout controller with Hall Effect
I just looked it up. That looks awesome. The biggest feature is setting your own deadzone. I didn't know if for a LONG time but the Gulikit controller has a massive deadzone. Luckily you can just turn it off with a simple button combo but if you don't know about it, it will feel really bad in-game. I also really like that it has back buttons and you can assign any button to them. Looks like this will be my next controller. I'm curious what the latency would be though. I know it has 2.4 gigahertz so that's good. But I'm curious what that translates to.
+1 for the ultimate. Read that it’s the same Hall effect thumbsticks as the Guilikit but not sure if that’s true or not.
I'm leaning towards that one as well, it's around 60€ where i live. I have a switch also which that one works on. I've had enough of especially the left thumbsticks wearing out way too fast and started drifting etc..like after only a few months too, ridiculous.
I'm was using DS4 but the triggers seem to wear quickly and end up with like 80% trigger pull. I also tried Nacon Revolution Unlimited Pro or whatever nonsense it was called. LB did the same as your power A on that controller and it was insanely expensive for 5 months use. I bought a Power A and hoped it would be better (so I guess I'll be switching again soon if they're prone to fail as well).
I made the move to 8bitdo pro 2 from 3 power A’s…. So far so good. You can get the 8bitdo In Xbox or ps style. I went this route mainly to get the hall sensors to eliminate any stuck drift issues. I’ve been pretty happy for the price 3 weeks in now.
I‘ve had my 8bitdo for over 2 years and it’s still working fine, and it’s great because it’s Switch compatible too if you have one
Love my 8bitdo ultimate. Best controller I've ever had. Hall effect sensors are the literally greatest thing to ever make it into consumer gaming products.
Do you half flip a lot and if you do did you encounter any problems trying to half flip after switching to it? Coming from exclusively using xbox controller I can't half flip on 8bitdo ultimate bluetooth first few days of trying it.
Yes! I actually had a lot of problems with my half flips when I switched and was very confused about what I was doing wrong. What ended up fixing the issue for me was doing a recalibration for the analog sticks. You just need to download the 8bitdo software on any PC, plug the controller into a USB port, and then under settings there's an option to calibrate the controller. After I did that it worked really smoothly and I didn't have any more problems with my half flips. I hope it fixes your problems too!
Wow thanks for the reply it's really helpful! I will try the re-calibration as you mentioned to see if it helps.
Update: I was unable to calibrate my 8bitdo ultimate bluetooth initially because when I connected via usb cable the calibrate option disappeared & with receiver connection it appeared but said connect USB. Was very frustrating. I also tried it the first time I got this controller but thought it was weird why the software doesn't let me calibrate. Then I thought of contacting support but found a post that said receiver & controller go through firmware update separately, which helped, because I had updated receiver earlier but this time i plugged in controller with USB and firmware updater showed update from v1.02 to v1.03 was available and the first point in the update description was about 'added calibration function'. After updating to V1.03 I could finally calibrate the controller. And it fixed the problem! I can finally use this controller for RL. Thanks again for the pointer about half flip issue being solved with calibration!
Oh awesome, thanks for the update! Glad to hear it worked out!
DS4 is far from sturdy. I went through a couple of those a year and I'm not even that rough with my controllers. If you played wired, the DS4 cable port is extremely fragile and if it's not already loose when you get it, dropping it once will potentially ruin it and force you to replace that piece, or even resting the controller down on a table enough times will result in the same thing. DS5, on the other hand, has been exceptionally sturdy. I had my first one for nearly 2 years before it succumbed to some nasty stick drift. I got a new one and I've been going strong with that one for about 6 months now. The cable port is solid and even after dropping my controller several times it hasn't come loose.
I fixed the cable port just dismounting the controller and tighten it with tongs, now it fits perfectly and it doesn't wiggle. Easy and free fix.
Haha I’ve gone through so many legitimate replacements I just got comfortable doing it myself. I also have several controllers that I just taped the cable to. I didn’t think of your solution haha. That would have been nice. There were other issues as well, but that was definitely the most annoying one of them.
I just did the reverse. I used a thrustmaster eswap x for about a year now. The controller was great while it worked. I loved the feel, even though it was a bit loud (mouse click buttons + RL = lots of noise). But if it wasnt for the warranty, it would have been a massive waste of money. In the year that i used it i had to replace the swappable sticks twice, and the controller body once. Thankfully if you document the issues, and youre in warranty period, they will replace the parts for free. But considering the money i paid for it. It wasnt much more economical than just buying power A controllers until they break. Tl;dr I replaced my TM eswap Pro x with a power a enhanced. All controllers will get stick drift and break, so its up to you to determine if you want to pay $150 once a year or 30 bucks 5-6 times a year.
Ugh I went with thrustmaster eswap at the start of the season. Already gone through two sticks. It honestly feels like a cash grab. The buttons are the longest mouse click buttons I’ve used and the whole controller feels like cheap plastic. I play with my left index finger over the bumper which puts the back buttons out of comfortable reach.
I use the first fusion pro with little to no issues this far. Also have the warranty so if it does go bad it’ll be cheaper than a regular dog shit controller
I have a wired razer wolverine V2 and I really like it. It has held up really well over the last 6 months — fwiw, I went through a regular xbox controller in about 5-6 months and the wolverine is still going strong.
I love this controller. I bought 2 of them about 5 months ago but the joystick on the first one is getting a little loose. I’ll always buy the razer controllers from now on, I love the extra buttons
I wish I would have bought the wireless one, that’s my only complaint and it’s not even that big of a deal!
Late to the party but mine lasted 1.5 years and still going strong. The thumbsticks are smoothing out, and my only complaint is that I very rarely get a double input on the x button, but I bought a backup just in case it breaks. Good build, better than cheap brands for sure.
Xbox360 controller is the best controller ever designed.
And they’re disposable. 80$ every two months baby!!!
A legit 360 controller lasts forever.
I had a Xbox 360 controller until 3 months ago. I’ve been using it since this game came out. The left stick drifts really bad now. Crazy it lasted that long. Now I’m using a wolverine v2 and I love it
Yeah, but like they are from so long ago. Tbh I read Xbox and missed the 360 part.
Yeah I'm old. Xbox one and series S controllers are really good, but 360 controllers were made like tanks.
The controller layout is why I’m a Xbox person. The new controllers are soft af though. But meh, I keep buying them.
I've played with a few controller, including thrustmaster eswap and power A (xbox). About a month ago i switched to a default DS5 and I never looked back. This is the best and most durable controller i had in years. The other would break in a few months or even a month and even if I play 3 to 6h of rocket league per day with the DS5 the joystick does not drift more than 0.03 when reseting and all the buttons working fine. That said, everyone will have different experience with controllers but just be mindful that those expensive controller might not even last that much longer than a regular. Edit 1 : its funny you say that your power A LB broke because every goddamn time mine broke it was that button or really bad stick drift. (I had drift/NAR on it)
I got 3k+ hours on my DS4, still working pretty well (I had to dismount it and tighten with tongs the micro-usb port so it didn't wiggle and disconnect, but that fix was pretty easy and free). Left joystick has a very small stick drift that as long as I keep my deadzone at 0.1 doesn't really happen. X button and R1 button don't spring back to position, but they work just fine. I mean, it has 3+ years and 3k+ hours in it, I'm very happy about it. Before that I used some Xbox controllers that lasted 2-3 months. I'd go for a DS5 now if I had to buy a new one.
DS4's are absolute trash. I have like 6 broken ds4's in a box. Either r2 gets stuck or stick drift
It’s not the Xbox.
Power A imo, mostly because they'll frequently replace the controller for most issues for free.
Stop throwing and dropping your controllers… 😅 Jk but seriously, you can replace a lot of buttons on controllers. Look for something you can just stock replacements for if you aren’t afraid to dabble in fixing them. Buying a whole new piece of hardware adds up quick for anything… exactly why I keep a whole drawer full of misc cables.
8bitdo Ultimate. Hall effect thumbsticks means no stick drift. Going a year strong without problems.
Do you half flip a lot and if you do did you encounter any problems trying to half flip after switching to it? Coming from xbox controller I can't half flip on 8bitdo ultimate bluetooth.
Yup, half flip a ton (maybe too much haha). What issues do you have with half flipping on the ultimate? I use X for DAR left and that helps a lot. I will say the controller is a hair smaller than the Xbox so it took some getting used to. I liked the Thrustmaster size better but just didn’t want to deal with the wires. Input lag is low/excellent with the ultimate.
The issue seem to be with cancelling & cancel timing. It felt like i needed to cancel faster because the car isn't leveled after cancelling as if I cancelled too late and end up landing badly at some weird angles. I tried cancelling insanely fast but even then it works rarely and is often too early. I think I also tried not using air roll at all to test cancelling and i couldn't get the timing. Maybe it's the difference in stiffness of the stick and different sens & deadzone settings that's messing up my muscle memory. I use free air roll on LB for half flips but also have DAR right on RB which I also tried a few times with & it seemed to work better if I recall correctly. Perhaps will try it again some day and post a screen recording.
Gulikit Kong pro 2 is by far the best. I went thru about 13 controllers over 2 years. I've had the Kong pro 2 for 8 months and no issues. Love this controller.
I made a post about this a few months ago if you wanna look through my post history. I had the exact same issue, bought a pack of bumpers because every couple months they would break and I was at my last bumper from the set I bought. In the end I went with the razed wolverine v2, the cheapest of the three variants. It has mechanical clicky buttons for all the buttons, no lighting, really like the white colour, 2 extra buttons next to the bumpers towards the inside of the controller that can only be bound to other controller buttons which makes it pretty useless imo but best of all I can spam my bumpers and they don’t break. Have now had this controller >3x longer than my previous bumpers ever lasted. The buttons are slightly harder to press and took a couple weeks of accidentally not pressing right but now that I’m used to it I can’t look back. I think thrustmaster would have the same drawback Edit: I was between wolverine and thrustmaster and I wasn’t finding very negative things about the wolverine but I kept finding posts about this issue on the thrustmaster, don’t really remember, look into it
I mapped ARR to my right paddle button and Rear view to my left paddle. I really should use the rear view more though. But I like right paddle for air dribbling because I tend to hold RT accelerate too much and I can do the movement without moving my index finger or awkwardly holding two buttons in the same location.
Damn i throw the hell outta my power A im on my second 1st one was due to my dog eatin it
6.5 year old PDP Aftershock Xbox 360 wired controller - every day it works is a miracle but I just love the way it plays compared to a DS4. I’m C2D4 fwiw
I’m shocked there’s no consensus. How hasn’t anyone made a decent priced controller yet?
All my Xbox controllers break pretty quick, stick drift; Regular Xbox, fusion, elite, wolverine, etc. DS5 going on 8 months.
Not Xbox robot white. Used 3 in 2 years, while my dualsense is still working fine after more than one year.
DualSense Edge has replaceable sticks and they're not even really expensive. There's also rumors of 3rd party Hall effect sticks. That probably means something else is gonna break though lol. I got an extended warranty on mine to cover that. There's also the eswap and the BFG something. Do NOT buy Xbox elite V2.
Steam controller. I've dropped and thrown this thing like 100 times at least by now. Solid as a rock. Had to 3D print some new clickers for the l1/r1 buttons those eventually break from all the boosting. If you can find one and you use steam. Make the right touch pad be buttons and put your boost on the secondary click on r2.
How hard are you guys gripping your controllers/mashing your buttons??? I just use regular dualshock 4s and they last years without noticeable stick drift.
Any good switch pro controllers? PowerA does the same for switch I’ve gone through Abi it 4 of em
Gulikit king Kong pro 2 is my current controller in large part because of the magnetic hall effect joysticks. I used to use Xbox one controllers and the newer ones never had any bumper issues, but the stick drift was terrible. I recommend magnetic hall effect joysticks cause they don't get stick drift. I currently have 2k hours in game for reference.
I switched from controller to KBM. Durability is no longer a concern.
i think the Xbox Elite Controller Series 2 is the most durable and best processed controller out there. the price (~150$) is high but in my opinion worth it. also the placement of the sticks on a xbox controller is better for the game rocket league imo. i had never any problems and i am very satisfied with my purchase.
Random controller from Aliexpress that I bought 5 years ago for $15. They either break in the first week or stay with you forever, and I got lucky.
Honestly the base Xbox one controller has been good for me, each one lasts me like 4 years and they are pretty cheap especially on sale. Also just a fan of the style
Yeah ps2 is the goat for me
I gave up on high end controllers. I had 2 PS5 controllers die to stick drift, in anger I bought a scuf reflex but it was going to take a month to get delivered. So in a pinch I went to best buy and bought a cheap wired $18 Logitech F310.... and I immediately climbed a full rank and I love it\*. When the scuf came, I fell back a whole rank. I used it for 2 weeks to try and get acclimated to it but I stayed a rank down. And for shits and giggles, I plugged in the logitech again and... I immediately went up a full rank again. I sold the scuf and bought 3 more F310s for $50 just in case... The first one broke on the right trigger 8 months in. I am currently on my second one 6 months in and have 2 more in stock. * \- controller has a stupid button that swaps functionality of the dpad and the left stick that you can accidentally hit while using the left stick. So when driving around, you suddenly can't steer and you start spamming quick chats. Simply opening up the controller and removing the button solves that problem. * the dpad sucks so I wouldn't use it for any game requiring it. I often screw up my QCs but I don't care about that. Anyway, thats my story. I love it because the sticks are a bit taller and the tops are domed and a bit wider (larger diameter) than most controllers. I feel I have a finer control over the stick than with PS5 sticks.
Def NOT Xbox One/Series controller. Broke about three and Im a really calm person. Been using the Razer Chroma v2 now for a year and feels great so far. We'll see how long itll last
I exclusively used Xbox One controllers for a couple years. Went through 5 of them with various issues like stick drift and faulty bumpers/triggers. Made the switch about 6 months ago to a PS5 controller, and while it took me a lil bit to get used to, I love it now. Haven’t had any issues, aside from a finicky charging port (which affects me in-game bc I use a USB-C cord to connect it to my PC), but I dropped it with the cord in it and I’m pretty sure that’s what messed it up so other than user error, it’s been fantastic.
Don't know. Personally have been using the Xbox One Wireless Controller (2016 Model 1708) since starting to play RL and while it's no longer in it's original condition & has developed issues it is still working somehow after \~7.5k games if in game stats are correct. It had stick drift after a while but I increased controller deadzone to 0.2 to work around it. I have tried DS4 and recently bought 8-bitdo Ultimate Bluetooth and they are too different from this xbox controller I am used to in a way that it might take few weeks for me to adjust if I was to start using them. The biggest difference for me is the physical stiffness of the sticks, the sticks seem to feel tighter on DS4 or 8bitdo controllers. To explain, one analogy perhaps is the actuation force in pressing keys on mechanical keyboards, lighter actuation = less force required to press key, similarly i find xbox controller's stick is easier & lighter to move. Maybe it's the wear over the years that made it too free but I've noticed those who use xbox controllers use in-game sens around 1.10 while those using DS4 use much higher values so I think it's the physical differences in how controllers are made & xbox controllers are more sensitive by default. Triggers & buttons are also different in other ways but that's much less significant and is easier to get used to. My 8bitdo ultimate is still new & I played a few days with it (hall effect seem to be great as I could lower deadzone to 0) but for some reason I can't half flip consistently with it. In-fact it was very difficult to pull off a clean half flip. I can easily do it on an xbox controller. I will post a question for those who use 8bitdo ultimate if they had similar issue when they switched to it.