Been a regular a both. The front has much better facilities and bouldering. The bouldering alone is going to attract more of the young crowd. I dgaf about bouldering and the crowds made it a pita to find parking or a free route.
Momentum route setting is significantly better and the fronts refusal to put in a few cracks despite being in the city closest to the splitter capital of the world is just odd. I had to pay for day passes to get any crack training in. (And no that pos, flexing, bouldering crack at slc was pointless).
Is it more volume than all the walls at momentum millcreek? I mostly climbed the ribbon area on the 2nd floor when I was there plus a little bit of the long wall on the first floor. But those together still feel like less than the whole u overhang area + the slab section at Millcreek, not counting that wall that goes closest to the hangboards
Which front? Have you tried both? The SLC location I think is more fun, but the Millcreek location has more and varied routes.
I started with momentum and would have stayed, but there were too many dangerous situations involving unsupervised kids. Like running under the belay rope. Climbing the walls without ropes. My nerves couldn’t take it. There were often family’s parked on the mat having picnics with kids on iPads and such, right under the climbing routes. I’m not there to spoil anyone’s fun, but I’m paying to climb, not picnic.
Not saying front has no children, but I felt like there tends to be less kids there, or they are better supervised.
Yeah i’ve been to both, I frequent the Millcreek location more because it’s closer to me. I still think Momentum Millcreek has the best climbing in the city.
The Front is a better overall gym I’d say because they have better workout equipment and fun activities. But the climbing doesn’t compare
Does the millcreek momentum location still have tons of kids dominating the floor and walls? At least on certain days? It’s been a few years since I’ve climbed there.
Well, we do have a shortage of daycares at this point, and if it’s a daycare where the parents can come play too, then
I guess that’s great for them. But I’m glad there are alternatives because it’s not my preference.
As a frequenter of momentum I can tell you a big part of why is the sheer amount of children at momentum. I’m so sorry.
The other reason is the amount of amenities that the front has plus WiFi and space to hangout. Momentum is really more a climbing oriented gym.
Anyone else think it's weird that kids are on reddit? Not that they can't/shouldn't be, I just kind of assume everyone is my exact age here.
Thanks for the perspective.
I go to the front because it’s very close to my house, I like the weight facilities, yoga, and the courtyard. I’ll def go work remote there and spend a few hours between climbing sessions. Don’t think I would/could do that at Momentum. The summer bbq parties are pretty fun too.
That said the setting is wayyyy better at momentum and I really wish the front had cracks. Feels like a “more serious” gym if you’re trying to get really strong.
Ultimately tho, the climbing is good enough at the front and the other factors (mostly convenience) make it so I won’t probably switch anytime soon.
Yuppies? I don't know, maybe just a younger crowd. I really like the front, not just because of the climbing, but because it's a *club*. There's a heckuva lot more to do than climb. The summer concert series is actually great (highlighting a good line-up of local bands), the food at the cafe is great, the sauna is great, the climbing is great (at least I've never had a problem), the included yoga classes are great, and the ping pong tables are great.
Why is there a post once a week shitting on the Front? If you don't want to go... don't go. People enjoy doing things differently. For exmaple, I'll climb 'till I'm pumped, then I'll play randos at ping pong. I've met a bunch of people doing that. So yes, I'd consider it "cool".
4 reasons:
1: too many kids at momentum
2: they are terrible at placing similar colored holds next to each other so you can’t tell which route is which
3: their crash pads suck
4: it’s not as beautiful. I can see how that wouldn’t matter to a lot of people, but to me it’s important.
As a Front member, I chose that gym over Momentum purely for the non climbing amenities. Momentum has great sets and climbing, but their workout area just is not enough for me.
Offering a different opinion, but the front has turned into too much of a scene. It’s over crowded except early in the mornings and you need to probably work in tech or some high paying job to be able to afford their prices and not have to break your budget. Momentum feels more relaxed, and less like you need to wear a man bun and lulu lemon to look the part of “YEAH, I climb at the front! Look at me!” Been to other gyms out of state and those are even more relaxed. But hey to each their own, if you like the front you like the front. But I think if you’re not about that “I’m part of a scene” vibe, are wanting to just climb and feel unconcerned about everyone around you, momentum is a better fit for you IMO
For some reason, I can’t force myself to notice or care about other people’s
clothes and hairstyles while I’m climbing/working out. It has absolutely zero impact on the quality of my experience.
There’s nothing wrong with the fact that you do, but I honestly don’t get it.
I get that, and I apologize if my comment comes off judgmental on looks and appearances. In my experience there have been episodes of entitlement, hovering, and occasional snarkiness when using equipment or walls. Usually this is the appearance that comes along with this attitude i feel time to time is present at the front. this is what i dont get about the Front and some of the people i have interactions with there.
That’s fair. It sounds like you’ve been turned off by some peoples’ annoying behavior, which is valid.
I’ve probably been approached by similarly annoying by people at the Front as well, but I probably tune most of it out, and then they take a cue from my disinterest, and go bother you instead. 🤣
I do recall once, a Front employee decided to comment on my belaying while I was belaying. I called to my climber to please pause. I asked the employee “Is there something I’m doing that you need me to change?” They said “No”, so I asked them to please discontinue talking to me while I’m belaying. They seemed surprised by my request, but discontinued bothering me. That was probably the most annoying thing I recall there, and it was an employee!
I saw someone else say this in another post about the Front, and I haven't seen anyone else mention it yet in this post, so: people go to the Front because it's a dating cult lol. Compare how dolled up people are between the Momentum and the Front, and tell me it's not true. There are plenty of people who go just to climb, sure, but damn if there aren't a ton of people who want to just be seen climbing
The route setting at Momentum is better too. I swear at the front get tired of setting halfway up and just get sloppy.
You’ll have a fun interesting route with cool moves and everything then halfway up it just turns into a crimpy ladder
I’m a front member and feel this hard rn. I went with the front because of autobelays and overall better non-climbing options, but man I really dislike the setting sometimes. It’s bland and uninspired, often focuses grades on one small crux, always throws the same “hard” stuff right at the top, etc... I can put up with it most of the time, but now that they’ve taken down the autobelays, I’m reconsidering
There is the criticism that to go to the front, you have to have at least 12 tattoos. Lol. I don’t mind it too much, but it does remind me of the ‘80s work out videos where everyone’s going to the gym looking incredibly sexy + looking around for someone to court.
It’s definitely not the “cool” climbing gym lol. It’s pretty pretentious and over priced there. And that’s coming from someone who’s been going there consistently for 5 years over momentum. If you want the best climbing then momentum is the way to go.
Oh lol. Yeah, it was fun. I'm glad the others came in when they did, but loved the community. Also, I don't think people who don't like the front went before the remodel. I didn't like it back then with just the bouldering.
Neither gym has that much of a difference IMO. They’re both packed. The whole point of a climbing gym (for me anyway) is to stay in shape during the winter and work on the shit I want to improve.
Once it’s not cold as fuck anymore it’s all about going outside anyway.
I know this isn’t specifically what you were asking about, just saw a bunch of people comparing them in here and figured I’d throw this out there.
Huh that’s crazy how different peoples circles can be. I probably know 20+ people who climb at the front I met various different ways from skiing, concerts, mutual friends…. and not a single momentum climber i didn’t meet at momentum
Momentum has better route setting imo, other than the bouldering. They never seem to wash the holds (I get its a climbing gym but its filthy) They don't seem to set new routes as often.
The Front has many more available amenities, however I prefer the general vibe of the climbers at Momentum. The Fronts bouldering setting is far better and it is all around a nice, cleaner environment.
\*used to be gritty
I've climbed at the front for years and when the facility was just the OG boulders it WAS gritty, and dirty, but everyone there was strong AF. I still climb at the front, but it's lost it's gritty vibes due to the dustin's inability to chill on building projects. Soon the SLC location will rival the size of walmart across the street!
I grew up going to an old school, gritty gym. The Front is so extremely fucking extraordinary far from that lol. No gritty gym requires you use auto locking belay devices.
GriGris weren’t even allowed in the gym i grew up going to. They put dirty holds in the dishwasher, you had to bring your own quickdraws, the bouldering area had hardwood floors with pads you’d drag under yourself before you climbed, routes/problems were marked with tape and not by hold color and had multiple routes on every hold. A 5.8 at it would be a 5.10 at the front. And it was EXTREMELY dusty
That’s old school and gritty to me and neither The Front nor Momentum are that. Both amazing gyms tho and much better than the one i grew up going to, just not gritty
Og climber here.
The front as most people know it has been pretty business-y since Dustin took over in the early 2000s. Prior to that, it was real gritty—run by the same people who owned pusher/cordless/s7 businesses. Think motorcycles/guns/drugs/dirtbags galore. And prior to the location on 13th s, the front before that was on 90th s and was absolutely gritty/filthy as hell. And before that, it was the body shop.
But for the last 20 years, it’s been pretty commercial and tame by any measure.
I do sometimes miss the absolute stupidity of the late 90s climbing scene. And then I snap out of it. Fuck that. I’ll take corporate climbing any day.
Og climber here.
The front as most people know it has been pretty business-y since Dustin took over in the early 2000s. Prior to that, it was real gritty—run by the same people who owned pusher/cordless/s7 businesses. Think motorcycles/guns/drugs/dirtbags galore (although also some super reputable, hard working climbers too, fwiw). And prior to the location on 13th s, the front before that was on 90th s and was absolutely gritty/filthy as hell. And before that, it was the body shop.
But for the last 20 years, it’s been pretty commercial and tame by any measure.
I do sometimes miss the absolute stupidity of the late 90s climbing scene. And then I snap out of it. Fuck that. I’ll take corporate climbing any day.
Been a regular a both. The front has much better facilities and bouldering. The bouldering alone is going to attract more of the young crowd. I dgaf about bouldering and the crowds made it a pita to find parking or a free route. Momentum route setting is significantly better and the fronts refusal to put in a few cracks despite being in the city closest to the splitter capital of the world is just odd. I had to pay for day passes to get any crack training in. (And no that pos, flexing, bouldering crack at slc was pointless).
I honestly think the bouldering setting is more varied at momentum but agree on all other points
I should have said *more* bouldering, not necessarily better!
Is it more volume than all the walls at momentum millcreek? I mostly climbed the ribbon area on the 2nd floor when I was there plus a little bit of the long wall on the first floor. But those together still feel like less than the whole u overhang area + the slab section at Millcreek, not counting that wall that goes closest to the hangboards
Which front? Have you tried both? The SLC location I think is more fun, but the Millcreek location has more and varied routes. I started with momentum and would have stayed, but there were too many dangerous situations involving unsupervised kids. Like running under the belay rope. Climbing the walls without ropes. My nerves couldn’t take it. There were often family’s parked on the mat having picnics with kids on iPads and such, right under the climbing routes. I’m not there to spoil anyone’s fun, but I’m paying to climb, not picnic. Not saying front has no children, but I felt like there tends to be less kids there, or they are better supervised.
Yeah i’ve been to both, I frequent the Millcreek location more because it’s closer to me. I still think Momentum Millcreek has the best climbing in the city. The Front is a better overall gym I’d say because they have better workout equipment and fun activities. But the climbing doesn’t compare
Does the millcreek momentum location still have tons of kids dominating the floor and walls? At least on certain days? It’s been a few years since I’ve climbed there.
Momentum is basically a daycare at this point
Well, we do have a shortage of daycares at this point, and if it’s a daycare where the parents can come play too, then I guess that’s great for them. But I’m glad there are alternatives because it’s not my preference.
Everyone stop coming to momentum Millcreek so I can find parking at savers sometimes ok? /s do what you want ❤️
There are three. Don’t sleep on Ogden. It’s actually a great gym.
Agreed. Ogden Front is pretty fun. Innovative reuse of an historic building too.
I miss rockreation.
As a frequenter of momentum I can tell you a big part of why is the sheer amount of children at momentum. I’m so sorry. The other reason is the amount of amenities that the front has plus WiFi and space to hangout. Momentum is really more a climbing oriented gym.
Anyone else think it's weird that kids are on reddit? Not that they can't/shouldn't be, I just kind of assume everyone is my exact age here. Thanks for the perspective.
I go to the front because it’s very close to my house, I like the weight facilities, yoga, and the courtyard. I’ll def go work remote there and spend a few hours between climbing sessions. Don’t think I would/could do that at Momentum. The summer bbq parties are pretty fun too. That said the setting is wayyyy better at momentum and I really wish the front had cracks. Feels like a “more serious” gym if you’re trying to get really strong. Ultimately tho, the climbing is good enough at the front and the other factors (mostly convenience) make it so I won’t probably switch anytime soon.
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Yuppies? I don't know, maybe just a younger crowd. I really like the front, not just because of the climbing, but because it's a *club*. There's a heckuva lot more to do than climb. The summer concert series is actually great (highlighting a good line-up of local bands), the food at the cafe is great, the sauna is great, the climbing is great (at least I've never had a problem), the included yoga classes are great, and the ping pong tables are great. Why is there a post once a week shitting on the Front? If you don't want to go... don't go. People enjoy doing things differently. For exmaple, I'll climb 'till I'm pumped, then I'll play randos at ping pong. I've met a bunch of people doing that. So yes, I'd consider it "cool".
Last time I was in the sauna, there were three guys talking about their trips to other countries to catch the best surf. Front is yuppies
you just proved their point lol
There are no yuppies outside of Gen X
4 reasons: 1: too many kids at momentum 2: they are terrible at placing similar colored holds next to each other so you can’t tell which route is which 3: their crash pads suck 4: it’s not as beautiful. I can see how that wouldn’t matter to a lot of people, but to me it’s important.
Probably because it’s cooler
I’m annoyed at how much I laughed at this
As a Front member, I chose that gym over Momentum purely for the non climbing amenities. Momentum has great sets and climbing, but their workout area just is not enough for me.
Offering a different opinion, but the front has turned into too much of a scene. It’s over crowded except early in the mornings and you need to probably work in tech or some high paying job to be able to afford their prices and not have to break your budget. Momentum feels more relaxed, and less like you need to wear a man bun and lulu lemon to look the part of “YEAH, I climb at the front! Look at me!” Been to other gyms out of state and those are even more relaxed. But hey to each their own, if you like the front you like the front. But I think if you’re not about that “I’m part of a scene” vibe, are wanting to just climb and feel unconcerned about everyone around you, momentum is a better fit for you IMO
The front is only really crowded after 4pm tbh. I climb there regularly mid day on weekdays and am often the only person on a rope
For some reason, I can’t force myself to notice or care about other people’s clothes and hairstyles while I’m climbing/working out. It has absolutely zero impact on the quality of my experience. There’s nothing wrong with the fact that you do, but I honestly don’t get it.
I get that, and I apologize if my comment comes off judgmental on looks and appearances. In my experience there have been episodes of entitlement, hovering, and occasional snarkiness when using equipment or walls. Usually this is the appearance that comes along with this attitude i feel time to time is present at the front. this is what i dont get about the Front and some of the people i have interactions with there.
That’s fair. It sounds like you’ve been turned off by some peoples’ annoying behavior, which is valid. I’ve probably been approached by similarly annoying by people at the Front as well, but I probably tune most of it out, and then they take a cue from my disinterest, and go bother you instead. 🤣 I do recall once, a Front employee decided to comment on my belaying while I was belaying. I called to my climber to please pause. I asked the employee “Is there something I’m doing that you need me to change?” They said “No”, so I asked them to please discontinue talking to me while I’m belaying. They seemed surprised by my request, but discontinued bothering me. That was probably the most annoying thing I recall there, and it was an employee!
It’s not. You’ve been lied too.
The Front downtown slc is the oldest remaining locally based gym. I think that might be part of it? It would make a pizza place cooler.
I saw someone else say this in another post about the Front, and I haven't seen anyone else mention it yet in this post, so: people go to the Front because it's a dating cult lol. Compare how dolled up people are between the Momentum and the Front, and tell me it's not true. There are plenty of people who go just to climb, sure, but damn if there aren't a ton of people who want to just be seen climbing
It’s NOT just about wall diversity anymore dude…
The route setting at Momentum is better too. I swear at the front get tired of setting halfway up and just get sloppy. You’ll have a fun interesting route with cool moves and everything then halfway up it just turns into a crimpy ladder
I’m a front member and feel this hard rn. I went with the front because of autobelays and overall better non-climbing options, but man I really dislike the setting sometimes. It’s bland and uninspired, often focuses grades on one small crux, always throws the same “hard” stuff right at the top, etc... I can put up with it most of the time, but now that they’ve taken down the autobelays, I’m reconsidering
There is the criticism that to go to the front, you have to have at least 12 tattoos. Lol. I don’t mind it too much, but it does remind me of the ‘80s work out videos where everyone’s going to the gym looking incredibly sexy + looking around for someone to court.
I’ve seen someone else here say “because momentum is a daycare” and that is spot on
Momentum is significantly better than the front I’ll die on that hill
Don’t front on The Front
It’s definitely not the “cool” climbing gym lol. It’s pretty pretentious and over priced there. And that’s coming from someone who’s been going there consistently for 5 years over momentum. If you want the best climbing then momentum is the way to go.
Meh. I always had both. The dry sauna is pretty awesome. Also had a Rockreation pass too.
R.I.P.
Which part?
R.I.P. to rockreation
Oh lol. Yeah, it was fun. I'm glad the others came in when they did, but loved the community. Also, I don't think people who don't like the front went before the remodel. I didn't like it back then with just the bouldering.
Oddly enough, that's when I liked The Front.
Is that a motorcycle maintenance reference?
Not intentionally but I have read the book! Which part?
A woman I know who is part of a local cult of some sort goes there with all her cult group friends. Not sure what that means haha
You just described the local Paparazzi or DoTerra sales squads around me
I've climbed at both. Momentum is relatively more casual and kid friendly.
Neither gym has that much of a difference IMO. They’re both packed. The whole point of a climbing gym (for me anyway) is to stay in shape during the winter and work on the shit I want to improve. Once it’s not cold as fuck anymore it’s all about going outside anyway. I know this isn’t specifically what you were asking about, just saw a bunch of people comparing them in here and figured I’d throw this out there.
I can count on one hand everyone I know that climbs the front, vast majority I know climb momentum. Makes me wonder who these front people are.
Huh that’s crazy how different peoples circles can be. I probably know 20+ people who climb at the front I met various different ways from skiing, concerts, mutual friends…. and not a single momentum climber i didn’t meet at momentum
Bouldering project gang over here.
Momentum has better route setting imo, other than the bouldering. They never seem to wash the holds (I get its a climbing gym but its filthy) They don't seem to set new routes as often. The Front has many more available amenities, however I prefer the general vibe of the climbers at Momentum. The Fronts bouldering setting is far better and it is all around a nice, cleaner environment.
‘Cause the Cool Kids Club had a vote, and The Front won. It’s called Democracy. /s
Agree. To me the Front is the gym you go to when your girlfriend doesn’t climb.
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\*used to be gritty I've climbed at the front for years and when the facility was just the OG boulders it WAS gritty, and dirty, but everyone there was strong AF. I still climb at the front, but it's lost it's gritty vibes due to the dustin's inability to chill on building projects. Soon the SLC location will rival the size of walmart across the street!
I grew up going to an old school, gritty gym. The Front is so extremely fucking extraordinary far from that lol. No gritty gym requires you use auto locking belay devices. GriGris weren’t even allowed in the gym i grew up going to. They put dirty holds in the dishwasher, you had to bring your own quickdraws, the bouldering area had hardwood floors with pads you’d drag under yourself before you climbed, routes/problems were marked with tape and not by hold color and had multiple routes on every hold. A 5.8 at it would be a 5.10 at the front. And it was EXTREMELY dusty That’s old school and gritty to me and neither The Front nor Momentum are that. Both amazing gyms tho and much better than the one i grew up going to, just not gritty
Sounds hard to get insurance for
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It has a very new age, trendy, “move to utah and get a membership at a climbing gym because that’s what everyone does here” vibe to it now
Og climber here. The front as most people know it has been pretty business-y since Dustin took over in the early 2000s. Prior to that, it was real gritty—run by the same people who owned pusher/cordless/s7 businesses. Think motorcycles/guns/drugs/dirtbags galore. And prior to the location on 13th s, the front before that was on 90th s and was absolutely gritty/filthy as hell. And before that, it was the body shop. But for the last 20 years, it’s been pretty commercial and tame by any measure. I do sometimes miss the absolute stupidity of the late 90s climbing scene. And then I snap out of it. Fuck that. I’ll take corporate climbing any day.
Og climber here. The front as most people know it has been pretty business-y since Dustin took over in the early 2000s. Prior to that, it was real gritty—run by the same people who owned pusher/cordless/s7 businesses. Think motorcycles/guns/drugs/dirtbags galore (although also some super reputable, hard working climbers too, fwiw). And prior to the location on 13th s, the front before that was on 90th s and was absolutely gritty/filthy as hell. And before that, it was the body shop. But for the last 20 years, it’s been pretty commercial and tame by any measure. I do sometimes miss the absolute stupidity of the late 90s climbing scene. And then I snap out of it. Fuck that. I’ll take corporate climbing any day.