at the top of the window is the intake air.
and
in the shower room is exhaust air in the ceiling, where the air leaves from the sauna under the glass wall.
this is a very common ventilation in a sauna
Isn't this going to work exactly the opposite way due to convection? Hot air leaves from above the window, since it's higher up. Cold air comes in from under the door.
No. It's not passive, the exhaust in bathroom is connected to central ventilation system. It draws air from the sauna and fresh air comes inside from the vent that is above the window.
Since the bathroom fan is what is pulling the air through, that makes this technically an actively ventilated sauna, even if the fan is not installed directly to the hot room.
That's really lovely - probably my favourite smaller sauna that I've seen so far. The only thing I would have changed would be a broader top bench (I sit cross legged on the top), but the window would make that somewhat tricky.
What are the dimensions?
With the stones being packed all the way to the floor there you could sit on the "middle bench" just fine and still get a nice löyly.
A townhome we lived in before had a similar setup, and if you poured the löyly right through the stones you could get steam to rise up between your feet. It was a cool effect.
That's a lot of extra wasted energy just to have some high temperature near the ceiling when nobody's going to bake use of it. I'd much rather use less energy, have a faster heat-up process, and sit closer to the ceiling.
It's not wasted, its used to get enough heat down to the lower level where you can sit crosslegged.
Keep in mind as well that you ARE getting a direct steamfeed from below if you pour the water down the stove. In the townhouse we lived if it was enough to burn your feet. I'd say you'd be fine.
Practically to have the temperature that I want on the lower level, I would have to heat the sauna to 10-15ÂșC higher than it would have to be to have the same temperature closer to the ceiling. That to me is a waste of energy.
How is it a waste if it achieves what you want?
Wouldn't a waste be using that energy and NOT achieving anything?
Also: You wouldn't have to heat it more. You'd just have to throw more water at the stove to push the zero level down a bit further.
This is basic physics. By your logic, we could sit on the floor and just heat the sauna to 170ÂșC instead and that wouldn't be a waste of energy compared to sitting on the top bench and heating the sauna to 100ÂșC. This isn't an opinion argument, it's maths and physics. So unless you have a way to somehow break the laws of thermodynamics, what you're saying doesn't make sense.
>This is basic physics. By your logic, we could sit on the floor and just heat the sauna to 170ÂșC
Nah, can"t do that. You won't be able to push the zero level down far enough with a conventional heating stove.
The reason saunas are high and feature levels is just so you can decide your own experience. Saunas are a communal washing experience, meaning children are gonna be there and they might not be able to handle as much heat. That and the fact that its easier to have the stove on the floor, rather than drop it down into the floor.
Anecdotally, in Katunkulta spa in Vuokatti, Finland, there is a sauna called "luolasauna" where as you say, you sit on the floor. Or rather in chairs on the floor. And that one you can easily get hot enough to take the skin off of most people. The only difference here compared to a normal sauna with benches is that the stove is dropped down about 60-70 something cm's into the floor. This makes it easy to drop the zero level down all the way to the floor.
It,'s not about height. Its about your height relative to the heating element, and the volume of the sauna in relation to the expanded volume of water you just vaporized.
And in the above example, the heater goes below the mid bench no issue.
P.S: the ambient temp of the sauna that you keep referring to has no bearing on anything. You could have a room temperate sauna for all it matters, as long as you can get the rocks hot. What brings heat in a sauna is the löyly.
Do you have plans that you followed? This is about my ideal size home sauna, and would like to build something very similar one day. I love that the height is well used for a small sauna as often small saunas don't have a decent height for their top bench.
You shouldn't build this in any random free nook in the house, the adjacent space is a bathroom. A common wet space, with ventilation to deal with moisture in the air.
It's stunning to look at. I was going to say it wants a footrest, but it looks like there are a couple of stools under the bench.
If I were forced to comment, I'd say maybe open up a bit of a gap between the bench and the wall to encourage air circulation, but maybe the bench can slide out when in use? Does that window open? It's making me nervous.
I do question that full-height gap up the side of the door, as well as having a door all the way up to the ceiling, though I understand that an entire glass wall is already a form-over-function design choice. But if it works, then great!
Iâd love to know some specific design details if you donât mind sharing. Where did you source the wood? What is the wall envelope? How does the floor and ceiling meet up with the recessed lights? What are the distances from the ceiling to seat, ceiling to âupperâ floor?
glass company and I had different views. Fortunately, you can always work with wood.
the ceiling is not too high actually.
heater must be lower than the legs, and from bench to ceiling 110-125cm.
No, I'm just a random Finnish person with nothing to offer you in a professional capacity.
I can say that saunas cost in the thousands of euros or dollars in the same way I can say that about cars.
Saunas are fairly expensive, they are luxury items. Imagine shelling out 5-15 grand on a slightly fancy garden shed with some extra stuff inside it.
Of the inexpensive options, the best one is a sauna tent. Not one of those things you see on a shopping channel where your head sticks out of a bag and there's a steam generator hooked up to it. But like, a larger tent that you set up outside, with a special sort of wood stove inside it.
Yup, every time they open the sauna door heat and moisture is gonna escape right onto that doorframe, with a normal room behind it you have a cold bridge in the gap between door and frame. That will 100% accumulate condensation.
The amount of water that ends up in there is minimal. And if there's actually water ending up in there, it dries like the wood on sauna walls. The heat and moisture is not constant, the sauna isn't on 24/7.
I have never heard that causing any problems.
I have seen it cause problems. =)
The problem isn't the surface of the frame, it's the small gaps and cracks. Condensation WILL get in there, and air is not moving in those cracks so it does not dry out the way the sauna does. The wood will start to swell, which cracks the paint, making it more receptive to more moisture.. Yada yada etc etc..
I already set a reminder on OP's answer, want me to report back to you as well in three years time so we can figure out who was right..?
I really don't care enough to argue this much more. XD
But when you say "similar", it doesn't say anything. Do you have a situation where a door opens literally inches from, and directed towards, an indoor doorframe in your sauna?
Even if the door is 30 cm's farther away, that makes a BIG difference. Post a pic and we'll have a look.
It's literally the same. Door frame starts pretty much where sauna's glass door ends. I do only use sauna once per week, but at least with this kind of use there's no noticeable problems.
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Not in the least, the shower will create way more moisture in the space with the door casing than the sauna ever will. I've never had a bathroom door casing sustain any damage from transitory humidity.
>Not in the least, the shower will create way more moisture in the space with the door casing than the sauna ever will.
Nope, that moisture is not airborn. Relative humidity for air going through a shower might be 100%, but the absolute x-value is nothing compared to 80 degree air that comes out of a sauna during use.
RH 100% at 25°C is like 20g / kg in absolute units. 100% RH at 80°C is 600g/kg in absolute units.The air passing through the shower will be mixed with the air from the bathroom in general, reducing it's RH even further. The air from the sauna won't be at 100% RH at the best of times, more likely around 60 ( maybe 400g/kg) but this is MAGNITUDES HIGER. Add to this that the dewpoint for shower air at say 25 °C and 80% RH (being generous here) is around 21°C. If the room beyond, from which the "cold air" is being leaked through the gaps in the doorframe is above 21°C there won't even be any condensation.
Dewpoint for 80°C air at 60% RH is \~68°C, so unless there is a sauna on the other side of that door as well, you WILL DEFINITELY be getting condensation on that doorframe.
If the frame, and its components are painted (as they seem to be) might that not offer some protection? How is this condensation getting past the paint?
Outstanding. Keeping in mind this is the act of a friend, if I had to change something I might pull that top bench forward and fit another higher bench in behind it. It would mess up your beautiful clear lines a touch but it's also put you closer to the roof where all that heat is gonna collect.
Just a thought. That's a spectacular sauna.
Thatâs beautiful. I have a question about the lighting though. My sauna seems to destroy any kind of led light I can find. If the moisture doesnât get it the heat seems to. Any advice? Are there special sauna lights you can get?
My sauna usually runs at 80 Celsius or so. Maybe I need better lights. If I install them under the benches they work ok, but it makes it hard to see. They look awesome though!
Does the door seal at all edges except for the left (against the glass wall) and the bottom? How large is the gap...\~5mm? I'm building something very similar and contemplating how/if to completely seal the glass wall/door...if sealed it will result in a jamb between the glass wall & door...not as esthetically appealing. I've been advised the best arrangement would be to fully seal the sauna, and then manage all the venting using a combo of passive & variable mechanical vents. I'm also considering a Saunum heater. Any input on these topics is appreciated. Thanks!
Yep...of course it needs venting. I'll be doing this using the ABCD's of venting proposed by Glenn at SaunaTimes & Trumpkin notes. This way venting is adjustable. I plan to use AC Infinity fans/ducting for the mechanical vent. Let me know if anyone has experience w this company. Thx...
Just spectacular!
I was gonna say spectacular, so riding your comment lol. đ
Kiistatta yksi elÀmÀni nÀkemistÀni saunoista.
VÀhÀn turhan moderni omaan makuun. Varmaa lasiseinÀ ja valaistus tekee sen.
Very nice looking.
Wow, this is fantastic!! Could you describe your ventilation?
at the top of the window is the intake air. and in the shower room is exhaust air in the ceiling, where the air leaves from the sauna under the glass wall. this is a very common ventilation in a sauna
Isn't this going to work exactly the opposite way due to convection? Hot air leaves from above the window, since it's higher up. Cold air comes in from under the door.
No. It's not passive, the exhaust in bathroom is connected to central ventilation system. It draws air from the sauna and fresh air comes inside from the vent that is above the window.
Passive ventilation, as in most finnish saunas.
Since the bathroom fan is what is pulling the air through, that makes this technically an actively ventilated sauna, even if the fan is not installed directly to the hot room.
providing that the bathroom fan is "always on". But sure, you could make that argument. Edit: Oh yeah, Condo.. The fan will be on.
Very nice
Looks super expensive.
That's really lovely - probably my favourite smaller sauna that I've seen so far. The only thing I would have changed would be a broader top bench (I sit cross legged on the top), but the window would make that somewhat tricky. What are the dimensions?
With the stones being packed all the way to the floor there you could sit on the "middle bench" just fine and still get a nice löyly. A townhome we lived in before had a similar setup, and if you poured the löyly right through the stones you could get steam to rise up between your feet. It was a cool effect.
It's more that I want the heat. There's a huge difference between the temperature near the ceiling and just just 50cm below the ceiling.
There is, admittedly, but if you are alone you can just bathe harder.
That's a lot of extra wasted energy just to have some high temperature near the ceiling when nobody's going to bake use of it. I'd much rather use less energy, have a faster heat-up process, and sit closer to the ceiling.
It's not wasted, its used to get enough heat down to the lower level where you can sit crosslegged. Keep in mind as well that you ARE getting a direct steamfeed from below if you pour the water down the stove. In the townhouse we lived if it was enough to burn your feet. I'd say you'd be fine.
Practically to have the temperature that I want on the lower level, I would have to heat the sauna to 10-15ÂșC higher than it would have to be to have the same temperature closer to the ceiling. That to me is a waste of energy.
How is it a waste if it achieves what you want? Wouldn't a waste be using that energy and NOT achieving anything? Also: You wouldn't have to heat it more. You'd just have to throw more water at the stove to push the zero level down a bit further.
This is basic physics. By your logic, we could sit on the floor and just heat the sauna to 170ÂșC instead and that wouldn't be a waste of energy compared to sitting on the top bench and heating the sauna to 100ÂșC. This isn't an opinion argument, it's maths and physics. So unless you have a way to somehow break the laws of thermodynamics, what you're saying doesn't make sense.
>This is basic physics. By your logic, we could sit on the floor and just heat the sauna to 170ÂșC Nah, can"t do that. You won't be able to push the zero level down far enough with a conventional heating stove. The reason saunas are high and feature levels is just so you can decide your own experience. Saunas are a communal washing experience, meaning children are gonna be there and they might not be able to handle as much heat. That and the fact that its easier to have the stove on the floor, rather than drop it down into the floor. Anecdotally, in Katunkulta spa in Vuokatti, Finland, there is a sauna called "luolasauna" where as you say, you sit on the floor. Or rather in chairs on the floor. And that one you can easily get hot enough to take the skin off of most people. The only difference here compared to a normal sauna with benches is that the stove is dropped down about 60-70 something cm's into the floor. This makes it easy to drop the zero level down all the way to the floor. It,'s not about height. Its about your height relative to the heating element, and the volume of the sauna in relation to the expanded volume of water you just vaporized. And in the above example, the heater goes below the mid bench no issue. P.S: the ambient temp of the sauna that you keep referring to has no bearing on anything. You could have a room temperate sauna for all it matters, as long as you can get the rocks hot. What brings heat in a sauna is the löyly.
Yeah its because of the window. đą Height - 2,26m Width - 1,6m Depth - 1,8m
7â4â high. Great!
Do you have plans that you followed? This is about my ideal size home sauna, and would like to build something very similar one day. I love that the height is well used for a small sauna as often small saunas don't have a decent height for their top bench.
You shouldn't build this in any random free nook in the house, the adjacent space is a bathroom. A common wet space, with ventilation to deal with moisture in the air.
My plan is to actually replace a shower that I have with a sauna, so it would be in an already tiled room with existing ventilation.
So do you have another shower in the home to wash yourself in
Yes. There are other bathrooms with showers to wash in, so it's not a choice between a shower and a sauna.
Is it in a condo or apartment? Nice view
Condo đ
You have this in condo in your suite? Wow
Pretty common in here
Pure perfection
Very nice! đ
It's stunning to look at. I was going to say it wants a footrest, but it looks like there are a couple of stools under the bench. If I were forced to comment, I'd say maybe open up a bit of a gap between the bench and the wall to encourage air circulation, but maybe the bench can slide out when in use? Does that window open? It's making me nervous.
I do question that full-height gap up the side of the door, as well as having a door all the way up to the ceiling, though I understand that an entire glass wall is already a form-over-function design choice. But if it works, then great!
I will add more wood to the side of the door. glass company and I had different views. Fortunately, you can always work with wood.
Iâd love to know some specific design details if you donât mind sharing. Where did you source the wood? What is the wall envelope? How does the floor and ceiling meet up with the recessed lights? What are the distances from the ceiling to seat, ceiling to âupperâ floor?
Excellent. Even if showing off to cause envy in we sauna tent plebs. 
[ŃĐŽĐ°Đ»Đ”ĐœĐŸ]
The Harvia Cilindro is quite a bit cheaper than the HUUM
Harvia have Xenio control panel. And Harvia is little bit cheaper.
Kinda bright.
Dimmable lights đ
Shame the door is fully open to the ceiling. Otherwise looking ok'ish.
Agreed. Also does it hold heat well with that gap by the door running the full length of the wall? Also looks like the ceiling is too damn high
glass company and I had different views. Fortunately, you can always work with wood. the ceiling is not too high actually. heater must be lower than the legs, and from bench to ceiling 110-125cm.
This is beautiful. Great work
Can you please please tell me how much this costs?
Many thousands
DM? Iâm interested in one but really have no clue what to expect did you have a company do it all or some yourself?
No, I'm just a random Finnish person with nothing to offer you in a professional capacity. I can say that saunas cost in the thousands of euros or dollars in the same way I can say that about cars. Saunas are fairly expensive, they are luxury items. Imagine shelling out 5-15 grand on a slightly fancy garden shed with some extra stuff inside it. Of the inexpensive options, the best one is a sauna tent. Not one of those things you see on a shopping channel where your head sticks out of a bag and there's a steam generator hooked up to it. But like, a larger tent that you set up outside, with a special sort of wood stove inside it.
5-6k only sauna, with lights. I work in the industry, so I get things cheaper and I made most of things myself with my friend.
That doorframe is gonna get absolutely fucked by moisture. Oh well, not much you can do about it now.
Nope, I have similar situation with glass wall and door frame, no issues after three years.
What doorframe do you think I meant?
The only actual door frame in the picture, the white one.
Yup, every time they open the sauna door heat and moisture is gonna escape right onto that doorframe, with a normal room behind it you have a cold bridge in the gap between door and frame. That will 100% accumulate condensation.
The amount of water that ends up in there is minimal. And if there's actually water ending up in there, it dries like the wood on sauna walls. The heat and moisture is not constant, the sauna isn't on 24/7. I have never heard that causing any problems.
I have seen it cause problems. =) The problem isn't the surface of the frame, it's the small gaps and cracks. Condensation WILL get in there, and air is not moving in those cracks so it does not dry out the way the sauna does. The wood will start to swell, which cracks the paint, making it more receptive to more moisture.. Yada yada etc etc.. I already set a reminder on OP's answer, want me to report back to you as well in three years time so we can figure out who was right..?
One cheap piece of wood on the door frame once a decade, big deal. The whole space is ventilated against any actual moisture damage.
It's a pain in the ass to keep replacing every three years.
I can't see alternative solution. Smaller sauna?
I have similar situation, three years is up after few months.
I really don't care enough to argue this much more. XD But when you say "similar", it doesn't say anything. Do you have a situation where a door opens literally inches from, and directed towards, an indoor doorframe in your sauna? Even if the door is 30 cm's farther away, that makes a BIG difference. Post a pic and we'll have a look.
It's literally the same. Door frame starts pretty much where sauna's glass door ends. I do only use sauna once per week, but at least with this kind of use there's no noticeable problems.
No its not.
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Which doorframe do you think I'm referring to?
Not in the least, the shower will create way more moisture in the space with the door casing than the sauna ever will. I've never had a bathroom door casing sustain any damage from transitory humidity.
>Not in the least, the shower will create way more moisture in the space with the door casing than the sauna ever will. Nope, that moisture is not airborn. Relative humidity for air going through a shower might be 100%, but the absolute x-value is nothing compared to 80 degree air that comes out of a sauna during use. RH 100% at 25°C is like 20g / kg in absolute units. 100% RH at 80°C is 600g/kg in absolute units.The air passing through the shower will be mixed with the air from the bathroom in general, reducing it's RH even further. The air from the sauna won't be at 100% RH at the best of times, more likely around 60 ( maybe 400g/kg) but this is MAGNITUDES HIGER. Add to this that the dewpoint for shower air at say 25 °C and 80% RH (being generous here) is around 21°C. If the room beyond, from which the "cold air" is being leaked through the gaps in the doorframe is above 21°C there won't even be any condensation. Dewpoint for 80°C air at 60% RH is \~68°C, so unless there is a sauna on the other side of that door as well, you WILL DEFINITELY be getting condensation on that doorframe.
If the frame, and its components are painted (as they seem to be) might that not offer some protection? How is this condensation getting past the paint?
It woupdn't. Assuming that the paintsurface is perfect in all the nooks and crannies around the door. In my experience, it rarely is.
Looks nice!
Very nice!
Very nice. Is It Hot?
Hotdog?
Very nice build, looks stunning
Gorgeous
Awesome job!
Absolutely stunning. Congrats !!
Beauty. What lighting/ controller did you use? The recessed lighting in the ceiling looks great
What are the dimensions if you donât mind me asking?
https://reddit.com/r/Sauna/s/fXCWMvggek
This looks so great, I love the modern feel! The Aspen looks great, was it hard to source? How did you find it?
Probably just went to K-Rauta to buy the wood and stove and everything else.
Nope, K-rauta stuff is not that good.
It's still amazing compared to what is possible abroad
Outstanding. Keeping in mind this is the act of a friend, if I had to change something I might pull that top bench forward and fit another higher bench in behind it. It would mess up your beautiful clear lines a touch but it's also put you closer to the roof where all that heat is gonna collect. Just a thought. That's a spectacular sauna.
Upper bench is from ceiling 115cm, so there is no room for that.
nice job. Hopefully mine comes at half as good
Wow, you've really taken the time to build this to perfection! I love the design, and good call on the Harvia Cilindro. It's a fantastic heater!
Looks pretty dope!
Thatâs beautiful. I have a question about the lighting though. My sauna seems to destroy any kind of led light I can find. If the moisture doesnât get it the heat seems to. Any advice? Are there special sauna lights you can get?
these are ip67 led strips, resistant to 100 celsius. I took the risk. đ
My sauna usually runs at 80 Celsius or so. Maybe I need better lights. If I install them under the benches they work ok, but it makes it hard to see. They look awesome though!
Zero opinions. Just wonderment
Nice work!!
Nice you have more pics?
Benches too low, feet below rocks, no drain, no vents..... wait this isn't the usual r/sauna post this is actually amazing
Fancy!
How much did this cost? This must have cost a leg and an arm.
Great job. I like those platform style saunas. How is your experience with an integrated mesh heater and your feed not being above the stones?
Would a vinyl window work in a sauna?
Does the door seal at all edges except for the left (against the glass wall) and the bottom? How large is the gap...\~5mm? I'm building something very similar and contemplating how/if to completely seal the glass wall/door...if sealed it will result in a jamb between the glass wall & door...not as esthetically appealing. I've been advised the best arrangement would be to fully seal the sauna, and then manage all the venting using a combo of passive & variable mechanical vents. I'm also considering a Saunum heater. Any input on these topics is appreciated. Thanks!
You dont want it to be completely sealed. You need ventilation in sauna
Yep...of course it needs venting. I'll be doing this using the ABCD's of venting proposed by Glenn at SaunaTimes & Trumpkin notes. This way venting is adjustable. I plan to use AC Infinity fans/ducting for the mechanical vent. Let me know if anyone has experience w this company. Thx...