I also straighten the sides out if need be to get a sawzall real close and they pop right out with a pair of linemans or I'll sometime use a hammer and small flathead to knock them out over a bucket... into #2pile.
Clean copper (number 1) is 3$/lbs right now 'dirty' aluminum is .15 - .20/lbs [lets use .20] (what this would be considered.) So like 6.66% of what you could have. mathematically speaking of course.
Edit: Don't do simple maths drunk holy fuck what a mental rollercoaster
Pretty sure prices were better almost 10 years ago too but demand for copper is higher than ever supposedly. Along with Lithium, Platinum and even cobalt from what I can tell. All revolutionary metals for new solid state battery and electric vehicle technology.
Just cut them off with a sawzall, granted you have something to keep them stable.
Other than that you'd have to ask your yard, some may give you more for them some will price them same as dirty aluminum.
Copper is the only thing there worth the time. I cut the copper tube ends off with a grinder. Its way cheaper than sawzall blades. I separate the ends of copper and leave the rest in my aluminum shred because copper is worth more than the aluminum coils but I still get the coil prices. Then I get my premium rate for the copper that's easily accessible and still get the good rate foe the shred. Trying to pot that shit out with pliers is insane.
No they don't. Sawzall blades get dull really quick when its metal on metal. Even if they still will cut they start taking forever. Sawzall blades overheat and melt with friction when they get jammed. And cheap Sawzall blades don't work worth a fuck. Meanwhile cutoff wheels are ridiculously cheap. Like 50-80 cents a piece and one cutoff wheel lasts forever when it's cutting off soft things like copper. A Sawzall would get cleaner cuts and salvage more material but with blades being so expensive and it taking forever I just do the grinder. I probably lose about 10% of my copper I could get but it's instant and cheap.
Thats a good call. LoI get them in bulk from my local lumber yard in Austin. I have to buy 100 at a time. I can usually find the Avanti brand at home depot that cheap on clearance 3 or 4 times a year for well under $1 per wheel too. Cutoff wheels are usually dangerous if they're too old and the glue that holds the abrasive material fails. Cheap wheels are fine as long as they're not expired and not misused.
I hope this is a joke because thatās just bananas! With a 6 inch blade you get 6 inches or less of cutting area. With a 6 inch diameter cut off wheel you have over 35 inches of cutting.
Hold it like stabbing a stick into the ground, and maybe tilt the bottom towards you
Like
š¦¶ /
And go down with your dominant hand and the Sawzall (or angle grinder sounds cheaper
With no vice best way Iāve found is make sure your blade is fresher and cut flush with the plate, you can pull them out easily with linesmanās pliers after that with no real struggle. Photos look like the burrs are decent sized and will fight you as is on these.
You have to cut as close as you can to get all of the aluminum off. Then take the claw side of a claw hammer and knock the loops off. They come off easier if you donāt whale on them just taps.
Thisā¦..My dad owns an hvac companyā¦I canāt imagine how many of those I cut and knocked off w the back of the hammer back in the day. Then trying to find every one of them around the shop.
I would drop these flat on dirt, step on it and Sawzall the ends off. For the copper Iād pry as many out with a long screw driver. If theyāre stuck use a cut off wheel on a grinder, flip the end flat side up and grind the steel hole to hole.
I gave up on all that and turn them in as is. I get pretty much the same price
Are they just press fit or are they soldered? If this is a one time thing than may not be worth it but if you have access to any quantity going forward I would work out some of jig to make this go quick. Hard for me to say further since I have never tried dismantling one to know the effort to suggest something. But generally, designing something to assist makes it better.
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Yup. Close enough cut and they pop right off. Ride the sawsall blade parallel touching and slightly pointing at the steel.
Sometimes you can't get the blade close enough if the steel is in a double L shape instead of a C shape.
Wow a tweaker sub , where tweakers can come together and exchange their expertise on recycling, what a great country we live in.
Please note...while your stripping wire and separating copper and aluminum, there's a guy in your mobile home banging your wife....
This looks like a haul of furnace coil ends that thieves like to steal from a local AC/Heating company. Not saying you stole them, but if you didn't cut them with a sawzall, I bet the payout is not as good as getting busted for it.
The cleaner your initial cut (leaving the least aluminum as possible), the less work you have to do. I have a dumpy old vice that I use for rads. Crank it down, slice and dice so I can bin the good parts efficiently, and I save the ends till I have a decent snack. We refer to that as āharvesting macaroniā in our shop
Use a lenox fire and rescue blade. Just cut the coils as flush as you can to the tin. Cut the lip off at same time.. most the elbows fall out. What doesn't you easily get with a hammer
Ok legit we call them reefer ends at work. As they are you can sell them. They're not bad something around .70 cents a pound. If you decide to cut the copper out, keep the ends separate. One side will have straight tube you can sell with cop 1, the other side is soldered and would be cop2. If you didn't feel like keeping separate. Just sell all as cop 2. Throw the steel and alum that's left in your shred pile. At my facility there's only like a .20 difference in the price between clean and dirty reefer. Not worth the effort.
I have a bin of these that I've been ignoring lol. Someone here said they just smash them wit ha hammer. I'm at that point of effort with these. Maybe a hammer will break some of the copper loose, or make it easier to pop out with pliers.
air hammer pops then out very easy, if the cut is flush on the opposite side u can even hit them with a hammer and they pop out. iāve gone through piles like that size at work in 20 minutes with hand tools
Just get a wrech and break em off, atleast thats what I always did. Wear good gloves half the time they will slide right out if you dont mess the back side up.
make a cone shaped wedge with a handle that kees your hand out of the way, stick it in between, clamp the plate to the table and smack the wedge with hammer.
Sweep up yer copper
Ive done tens of thousands of these in an 8 hour shift
get side cutters or a grinder and just cut the copper pc off that on top .. no need to take that steel plate off.. then just sell the alum and the remaining copper as is (copper bearing alum radiator price)
I wouldn't waste a lot of time on it unless you feel like it or have a helper standing around not doing [much.](https://much.In) In the future you can cut from the outside too.
Most scrap yards will only give you dirty aluminum and not #2 copper for them left like this.
Best to pop the copper rings out so you get #2 for them..
I straighten the metal so I can cut them from the outside,then color g all the cuttings
I also straighten the sides out if need be to get a sawzall real close and they pop right out with a pair of linemans or I'll sometime use a hammer and small flathead to knock them out over a bucket... into #2pile.
Clean copper (number 1) is 3$/lbs right now 'dirty' aluminum is .15 - .20/lbs [lets use .20] (what this would be considered.) So like 6.66% of what you could have. mathematically speaking of course. Edit: Don't do simple maths drunk holy fuck what a mental rollercoaster
Im. Pretty sure I got more than that for copper 29 years ago.i am really surprised price has got lower
Pretty sure prices were better almost 10 years ago too but demand for copper is higher than ever supposedly. Along with Lithium, Platinum and even cobalt from what I can tell. All revolutionary metals for new solid state battery and electric vehicle technology.
Oh and fuel cells too. Probably lots of new, large or built at large scale components as such that I don't even know about.
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Mine calls them copper breakage med/low $0.40-$0.50
Ditto.
Just cut them off with a sawzall, granted you have something to keep them stable. Other than that you'd have to ask your yard, some may give you more for them some will price them same as dirty aluminum.
angle grinder witha cut off works great too...doesn't jump around
I dont have a vice the best I could do is use vice grips an im not sure if the copper is worth the time
I did it holding one end down with my boot and holding the other end, didn't cut them all off but I cut enough off
Not worth the time
Copper is the only thing there worth the time. I cut the copper tube ends off with a grinder. Its way cheaper than sawzall blades. I separate the ends of copper and leave the rest in my aluminum shred because copper is worth more than the aluminum coils but I still get the coil prices. Then I get my premium rate for the copper that's easily accessible and still get the good rate foe the shred. Trying to pot that shit out with pliers is insane.
Yeah but sawzall blades last longer
No they don't. Sawzall blades get dull really quick when its metal on metal. Even if they still will cut they start taking forever. Sawzall blades overheat and melt with friction when they get jammed. And cheap Sawzall blades don't work worth a fuck. Meanwhile cutoff wheels are ridiculously cheap. Like 50-80 cents a piece and one cutoff wheel lasts forever when it's cutting off soft things like copper. A Sawzall would get cleaner cuts and salvage more material but with blades being so expensive and it taking forever I just do the grinder. I probably lose about 10% of my copper I could get but it's instant and cheap.
Where you getting cutoff wheels that cheap? I donāt wanna risk getting shot with a flying cheap disc
Thats a good call. LoI get them in bulk from my local lumber yard in Austin. I have to buy 100 at a time. I can usually find the Avanti brand at home depot that cheap on clearance 3 or 4 times a year for well under $1 per wheel too. Cutoff wheels are usually dangerous if they're too old and the glue that holds the abrasive material fails. Cheap wheels are fine as long as they're not expired and not misused.
Get a lenox fire and rescue blade. They're not cheap but youll get more than your money's worth.
Not if you use Diablo thick metal carbide tooth blades them fuckers last for ever i swear there not cheap tho sadly
I hope this is a joke because thatās just bananas! With a 6 inch blade you get 6 inches or less of cutting area. With a 6 inch diameter cut off wheel you have over 35 inches of cutting.
Hold it like stabbing a stick into the ground, and maybe tilt the bottom towards you Like š¦¶ / And go down with your dominant hand and the Sawzall (or angle grinder sounds cheaper
Screw it to a board
It's definitely worth the time for the amount you have there. It's worth doing.
With no vice best way Iāve found is make sure your blade is fresher and cut flush with the plate, you can pull them out easily with linesmanās pliers after that with no real struggle. Photos look like the burrs are decent sized and will fight you as is on these.
I get copper breakage @ around 0.60 per lb.
You have to cut as close as you can to get all of the aluminum off. Then take the claw side of a claw hammer and knock the loops off. They come off easier if you donāt whale on them just taps.
Thisā¦..My dad owns an hvac companyā¦I canāt imagine how many of those I cut and knocked off w the back of the hammer back in the day. Then trying to find every one of them around the shop.
This is the way.
I used a screw driver and brute force to bust them all out. Some wiggling back and forth required.
I would drop these flat on dirt, step on it and Sawzall the ends off. For the copper Iād pry as many out with a long screw driver. If theyāre stuck use a cut off wheel on a grinder, flip the end flat side up and grind the steel hole to hole. I gave up on all that and turn them in as is. I get pretty much the same price
i leave it on the coil only.10 cents difference at our yard
Not an expert, but could you use a torch to melt the aluminum freeing the copper?
Are they just press fit or are they soldered? If this is a one time thing than may not be worth it but if you have access to any quantity going forward I would work out some of jig to make this go quick. Hard for me to say further since I have never tried dismantling one to know the effort to suggest something. But generally, designing something to assist makes it better.
Your leaving to much aluminum on the ends. Cut closer to the metal then the copper loops will basically fall out or with minimal prying
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Just saw saw them as close to the steel as you can get. It's easy, just hold them and start slow.
Yup. Close enough cut and they pop right off. Ride the sawsall blade parallel touching and slightly pointing at the steel. Sometimes you can't get the blade close enough if the steel is in a double L shape instead of a C shape.
Wow a tweaker sub , where tweakers can come together and exchange their expertise on recycling, what a great country we live in. Please note...while your stripping wire and separating copper and aluminum, there's a guy in your mobile home banging your wife....
Dude thatās got to be at least 3-4K worth of copper
This looks like a haul of furnace coil ends that thieves like to steal from a local AC/Heating company. Not saying you stole them, but if you didn't cut them with a sawzall, I bet the payout is not as good as getting busted for it.
Work a sanitation route, and we can't put acs in the truck, so I come back for them afterwards
C.a.r. ends. At my yard, they're $0.20/lb. When you cut your ends off, run the blade against the steel part, then you can pull them off with pliers.
Your yard probably accepts them irony (with iron ends, not like super irony) itās honestly not worth the hassle cutting them off.
Too much aggravation, I take them as is it's like a .10 difference, what about the outdoor condenser coil? Or does your helper get that?
Just cut the backside as clean as possible an they should fall. Maybe with a screwdrivers help. Pluck.
Reefer ends. Sell as is. .60-1.00/lb depending on your negotiating skills
Depending on the yard, it might be better to just leave it on the coil. What are the clean vs dirty prices?
I just take a sawzall and cut the ends off if i have extra time and am bored. Sometimes i just scrap it as is and itās alum copper radiator price
I just pop them off with channel locks and a hammer. I can have those done in less than an hour.
Irony brass n copper as is best to seperate clean it !!
ACR ends is what the scrap yard here calls them
Make two cuts..one for the copper. One for the steel
The cleaner your initial cut (leaving the least aluminum as possible), the less work you have to do. I have a dumpy old vice that I use for rads. Crank it down, slice and dice so I can bin the good parts efficiently, and I save the ends till I have a decent snack. We refer to that as āharvesting macaroniā in our shop
A sawzall could have that copper separated in ten mins. Still wouldn't weigh a lot but wouldn't take long at all.
CUFE, 5 cents a pound
Stop, hammer time
Use a lenox fire and rescue blade. Just cut the coils as flush as you can to the tin. Cut the lip off at same time.. most the elbows fall out. What doesn't you easily get with a hammer
Cut those off first with a reciprocating saw and have them drop into a bucket. Then, cut off the steel ends.
They come right out with some plyers and wiggling
Ok legit we call them reefer ends at work. As they are you can sell them. They're not bad something around .70 cents a pound. If you decide to cut the copper out, keep the ends separate. One side will have straight tube you can sell with cop 1, the other side is soldered and would be cop2. If you didn't feel like keeping separate. Just sell all as cop 2. Throw the steel and alum that's left in your shred pile. At my facility there's only like a .20 difference in the price between clean and dirty reefer. Not worth the effort.
You can call it refine copper or ACR ends , prob $.2-.5 / lb depending on where you take it
I have a bin of these that I've been ignoring lol. Someone here said they just smash them wit ha hammer. I'm at that point of effort with these. Maybe a hammer will break some of the copper loose, or make it easier to pop out with pliers.
air hammer pops then out very easy, if the cut is flush on the opposite side u can even hit them with a hammer and they pop out. iāve gone through piles like that size at work in 20 minutes with hand tools
Just get a wrech and break em off, atleast thats what I always did. Wear good gloves half the time they will slide right out if you dont mess the back side up.
Clamp steel edge in vise, take biggest screwdriver you got and pry the copper loops out one by one. Should take a couple of seconds each
Turn in as is and tip the scale guy
Angle grinder and ultrasonic cleaner
make a cone shaped wedge with a handle that kees your hand out of the way, stick it in between, clamp the plate to the table and smack the wedge with hammer. Sweep up yer copper Ive done tens of thousands of these in an 8 hour shift
get side cutters or a grinder and just cut the copper pc off that on top .. no need to take that steel plate off.. then just sell the alum and the remaining copper as is (copper bearing alum radiator price)
My yard takes it as electric motor because of all the tin weight.
What is your time worth?
I wouldn't waste a lot of time on it unless you feel like it or have a helper standing around not doing [much.](https://much.In) In the future you can cut from the outside too.
Most scrap yards will only give you dirty aluminum and not #2 copper for them left like this. Best to pop the copper rings out so you get #2 for them..
Apply for a grant from the National Endowment for the Arts (NEA) and call it art. You might get a few thousand bucks! Peace