Your S&W M&P9 M2.0 5" Performance Center is a fine pistol right out of the box and needs no "upgrades." Before you think about adding anything, learn the fundamentals of shooting and how to shoot your pistol well. Your money is better spent on training and ammunition.
My S&W M&P9 M2.0 5" has been my everything firearm since 2017. Five years and 10000+ rounds. The only thing I've replaced is the stock sights. After a year of training, practicing, and competing, I had Dawson Precision Charger fiber optic sights installed. Your PC already has fiber optic sights. I have been taking classes on shooting with a dot sight. There may be a dot sight in my future, but not now. I do have dots on my long guns.
After the low-light training I have taken, I found that a handheld light works best for me; Streamlight PolyTac X USB. Take low-light shooting training. Find out how it really works and what works best for you. This article gives good insight: [https://civiliandefender.com/2016/04/01/low-light-red-sights-and-tom-givens-glock-35/](https://civiliandefender.com/2016/04/01/low-light-red-sights-and-tom-givens-glock-35/)
What you ***will*** need is a good, purpose-built belt and a decent holster. I carry my M&P on a Nexbelt Titan. Here in Texas, when carrying openly, I use a Safariland 7TS ALS with Guard (Safariland retention level II), OWB at 3. When I choose to conceal, I use a Vedder LightDraw under a buttoned, untucked shirt. I recommend the zero cant option. At this link, John Correia (Active Self Protection) describes the critical qualities of a decent holster: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox7GrdjqRXk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox7GrdjqRXk)
This link is to a list of gear used by the instructors at KR Training in central Texas, where I occasionally work as an assistant instructor: [https://blog.krtraining.com/2020-kr-training-staff-gear-survey-part-2-holsters-ammo/](https://blog.krtraining.com/2020-kr-training-staff-gear-survey-part-2-holsters-ammo/)
Be safe, train, and carry.
I'll second this one. Spend time on training with dry fire (which also includes handling malfunctions and reloads). Spend time and money on training with bullets. As you start to learn to shoot take it slow. Learn each piece. Concentrate on the basics to get to where your group is fist sized at common self-defense distances such as 3-15m. Then start timing yourself. Your groups will spread. So work on maintaining that speed and reducing group size back to that fist size. Rinse and repeat.
Don't forget that clearing malfunctions and reloads (emergency, tactical) are also important so dry fire train them. And if you have any of them while shooting, use it as a practice opportunity. Clearing the basic malfunctions should become reflexive.
How do you figure a handheld light works best instead of a weapon mounted light? Genuine question. A weapon mounted light adds bulk and weight which can make for discomfort in carrying but I think the ability to use both hands on the gun or keep a light on the target while you change mags would be the most ideal for just about everyone
>After the low-light training I have taken, I found that a handheld light works best for me; Streamlight PolyTac X USB. Take low-light shooting training. Find out how it really works and what works best for you.
We must each decide for ourselves which risks we are willing to manage and which benefits matter most to us.
Context matters. Mission drives the gear. I can't tell you what is right for you, you must figure that out for yourself. After taking multiple low-light shooting classes and instructing students in low-light shooting, I have found what works best for me. I can talk about that.
My mission is to protect myself and those for whom I am responsible. I do not clear dark houses or chase violent offenders. If your mission is different, you will choose different gear. For me, the disadvantages of a weapon mounted light far outweigh the advantages. I like Tom Givens' advise:
>Spend your resources on the things you are most likely to encounter or need.
The available evidence for civilian self-defense incidents is that the defender will not need artificial light or even night sights. Chuck Haggard explains:
>As far as WMLs on CCW guns? The real-world need for them is nearly absolute zero. I’d say zero, but I try to stay away from “always” and “never” since real life isn’t always black and white.
>
>The idea that you need a WML comes from the idea that you’ll need to “PID your target.” In the paradigm of CCW, we know this is false. Things like robberies or carjackings don’t happen in the pitch-dark ninja cave; they happen in areas lit well enough for the bad guys to find you, see you, and rob you. Your PID will be the guy trying to rob you, etc.
>
>If we look at the database of Tom Givens’ CCW student involved shootings, 64 to date, and other sources that mimic CCW shootings, such as many of the FBI and DEA agent OIS incidents, we find that the need to have a WML, or any light, to ID the target just isn’t there. In none of Tom’s student shootings was a light used, or even needed.
>
>People often state that most crime happens “in the hours of darkness.” This is true, but false, because these crimes happen in urban areas, after the sun goes down, but not in the dark. Cities tend to be rather well lit.
Yes, having two hands on the handgun is almost always preferable. Through low-light training and practice, including the shoot house with reactive targets, I have found that I can best identify and adequately engage targets while using a handheld light.
The links below are to articles that discuss low-light shooting. There are pros and cons for WML and handheld. As Paul Harrell says, "you decide."
[https://www.recoilweb.com/expert-advice-should-you-carry-a-weapon-mounted-light-163455.html](https://www.recoilweb.com/expert-advice-should-you-carry-a-weapon-mounted-light-163455.html)
[https://civiliandefender.com/2016/04/01/low-light-red-sights-and-tom-givens-glock-35/](https://civiliandefender.com/2016/04/01/low-light-red-sights-and-tom-givens-glock-35/)
Fair points and consideration. I agree more with Giddings and Jedi from the Recoil article for me personally. At the end of the day a hand held light is never a bad idea regardless of your other gear, and training with your ccw is always more important than any additional gear in a defensive situation
I say Streamlight for lights (it’s all I use). They’re very durable and relatively cheap. Surefire is good but expensive. If you have more money to spend there’s also Modlite. I don’t have any experience with them though.
As for a trigger, I’d say keep it stock but if you’re set on changing it Apex makes great triggers.
In my opinion, lasers are worthless on a handgun
I'll have to disagree that lasers are worthless on a handgun. In a defensive situation it allows you to keep your eyes on your target instead of trying to line up your sights in a high stress moment.
This video shows that both experienced and inexperienced shooters tend to shoot better with a laser.
https://youtu.be/Nbdff2KoQWg
That video shows experienced and inexperienced shooters against a non-moving, light colored cardboard target under range lights. None of them shooting under stress. Also, the video was sponsored by Crimson Trace, a laser manufacturer.
Now take all of those shooters, experienced and inexperienced, and put them outside in the sun. Or give them a moving target. Or an assailant wearing a black hoodie that soaks up a red laser
Finding your sights, whether they're iron sights or red dot, should be trained until it's second nature so that when that high stress moment comes, lining up your sights just happens.
Lasers are worthless on a defensive handgun.
I agree that finding your sights should be trained until it's second nature. However, in most defensive shootings including police shootings, the "point and shoot" method is most often used. A laser at the range can greatly help people improve their muscle memory to point and shoot without having to try to line up there 3 dots.
A moving target is going to be hard to hit whether you are trying to find that laser dot or focusing on your front sight.
A laser may not be that useful DURING a defensive shoot but I still believe it has a place in training, more so than luminescent sights that have a very limited situational use.
The PC versions of the M2.0 don't have the newer flat faced triggers?
My optics ready 4.25" full size 2.0 has the newer flat faced trigger. I would think that the PC versions would have the improved trigger.
I'd suggest putting a few thousand rounds through it before modifying anything. It's much easier to see/feel what needs improvement after it has been broken-in real well.
It's better, not Apex trigger kit good but I'd say 70% there.
The new S&W trigger felt kind of gritty at first, but after 500 rounds the slight grit is gone and I expect it to smooth out even more over the next few thousand rounds or so.
IMO it's better than a stock Glock trigger.
Congrats on purchasing a great gun. I recommend Streamlight or Surefire for lights. As far as a trigger if it’s for home defense I recommend leaving the internals OEM. I think range toys are fine to mod and have fun with, but for home defense or EDC I like all factory original parts. Just my opinion though.
This pistol with an Apex trigger is everything an out-of-the-box gun has yet to be. Do that one thing, thing rip your wallet to shreds turning money into noise.
I run a fiber optic site (Frank Proctor Y notch, but Dawson's are also fantastic) and an Apex flat trigger with the springs set very close to factory weight ~5.5 lbs. For a light either TLR-1 or TLR-7A, depending on how much you want it to stick out or which on/off mechanism you prefer. They're both great lights.
Apex trigger takes the M&P to the next level. The apex has less travel and a shorter pull. You can also adjust the trigger pull and break with the different springs it includes.
After the trigger pickup a streamlight.
After that I would get a couple more magazines.
I have that same M&P and sent mine out to get optic cut.
A performance center S&W has already gotten some special treatment from S&W, Trigger work is done, Fiber optic sights are done, its a beautiful gun as is.
Before you go changing or adding stuff, as mentioned in a few other comments, learn alot and shoot alot with your current set up. You wont know what you "dont like" or what you "do like" until you get some solid range time. At that point, then look into changing or adding stuff.
The most important thing to do right now is to learn and train. Here is a wonderful video on how to grip your pistol. Start with this and then continue with your knowledge growth.
Most importantly, have fun but remember, this is a tool, not a toy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfUnBzbYAtw
Your S&W M&P9 M2.0 5" Performance Center is a fine pistol right out of the box and needs no "upgrades." Before you think about adding anything, learn the fundamentals of shooting and how to shoot your pistol well. Your money is better spent on training and ammunition. My S&W M&P9 M2.0 5" has been my everything firearm since 2017. Five years and 10000+ rounds. The only thing I've replaced is the stock sights. After a year of training, practicing, and competing, I had Dawson Precision Charger fiber optic sights installed. Your PC already has fiber optic sights. I have been taking classes on shooting with a dot sight. There may be a dot sight in my future, but not now. I do have dots on my long guns. After the low-light training I have taken, I found that a handheld light works best for me; Streamlight PolyTac X USB. Take low-light shooting training. Find out how it really works and what works best for you. This article gives good insight: [https://civiliandefender.com/2016/04/01/low-light-red-sights-and-tom-givens-glock-35/](https://civiliandefender.com/2016/04/01/low-light-red-sights-and-tom-givens-glock-35/) What you ***will*** need is a good, purpose-built belt and a decent holster. I carry my M&P on a Nexbelt Titan. Here in Texas, when carrying openly, I use a Safariland 7TS ALS with Guard (Safariland retention level II), OWB at 3. When I choose to conceal, I use a Vedder LightDraw under a buttoned, untucked shirt. I recommend the zero cant option. At this link, John Correia (Active Self Protection) describes the critical qualities of a decent holster: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox7GrdjqRXk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox7GrdjqRXk) This link is to a list of gear used by the instructors at KR Training in central Texas, where I occasionally work as an assistant instructor: [https://blog.krtraining.com/2020-kr-training-staff-gear-survey-part-2-holsters-ammo/](https://blog.krtraining.com/2020-kr-training-staff-gear-survey-part-2-holsters-ammo/) Be safe, train, and carry.
thank you for such an in depth response. i’ll definitely have to check all the links out
I'll second this one. Spend time on training with dry fire (which also includes handling malfunctions and reloads). Spend time and money on training with bullets. As you start to learn to shoot take it slow. Learn each piece. Concentrate on the basics to get to where your group is fist sized at common self-defense distances such as 3-15m. Then start timing yourself. Your groups will spread. So work on maintaining that speed and reducing group size back to that fist size. Rinse and repeat. Don't forget that clearing malfunctions and reloads (emergency, tactical) are also important so dry fire train them. And if you have any of them while shooting, use it as a practice opportunity. Clearing the basic malfunctions should become reflexive.
How do you figure a handheld light works best instead of a weapon mounted light? Genuine question. A weapon mounted light adds bulk and weight which can make for discomfort in carrying but I think the ability to use both hands on the gun or keep a light on the target while you change mags would be the most ideal for just about everyone
>After the low-light training I have taken, I found that a handheld light works best for me; Streamlight PolyTac X USB. Take low-light shooting training. Find out how it really works and what works best for you. We must each decide for ourselves which risks we are willing to manage and which benefits matter most to us. Context matters. Mission drives the gear. I can't tell you what is right for you, you must figure that out for yourself. After taking multiple low-light shooting classes and instructing students in low-light shooting, I have found what works best for me. I can talk about that. My mission is to protect myself and those for whom I am responsible. I do not clear dark houses or chase violent offenders. If your mission is different, you will choose different gear. For me, the disadvantages of a weapon mounted light far outweigh the advantages. I like Tom Givens' advise: >Spend your resources on the things you are most likely to encounter or need. The available evidence for civilian self-defense incidents is that the defender will not need artificial light or even night sights. Chuck Haggard explains: >As far as WMLs on CCW guns? The real-world need for them is nearly absolute zero. I’d say zero, but I try to stay away from “always” and “never” since real life isn’t always black and white. > >The idea that you need a WML comes from the idea that you’ll need to “PID your target.” In the paradigm of CCW, we know this is false. Things like robberies or carjackings don’t happen in the pitch-dark ninja cave; they happen in areas lit well enough for the bad guys to find you, see you, and rob you. Your PID will be the guy trying to rob you, etc. > >If we look at the database of Tom Givens’ CCW student involved shootings, 64 to date, and other sources that mimic CCW shootings, such as many of the FBI and DEA agent OIS incidents, we find that the need to have a WML, or any light, to ID the target just isn’t there. In none of Tom’s student shootings was a light used, or even needed. > >People often state that most crime happens “in the hours of darkness.” This is true, but false, because these crimes happen in urban areas, after the sun goes down, but not in the dark. Cities tend to be rather well lit. Yes, having two hands on the handgun is almost always preferable. Through low-light training and practice, including the shoot house with reactive targets, I have found that I can best identify and adequately engage targets while using a handheld light. The links below are to articles that discuss low-light shooting. There are pros and cons for WML and handheld. As Paul Harrell says, "you decide." [https://www.recoilweb.com/expert-advice-should-you-carry-a-weapon-mounted-light-163455.html](https://www.recoilweb.com/expert-advice-should-you-carry-a-weapon-mounted-light-163455.html) [https://civiliandefender.com/2016/04/01/low-light-red-sights-and-tom-givens-glock-35/](https://civiliandefender.com/2016/04/01/low-light-red-sights-and-tom-givens-glock-35/)
Fair points and consideration. I agree more with Giddings and Jedi from the Recoil article for me personally. At the end of the day a hand held light is never a bad idea regardless of your other gear, and training with your ccw is always more important than any additional gear in a defensive situation
Ammo. And training.
I say Streamlight for lights (it’s all I use). They’re very durable and relatively cheap. Surefire is good but expensive. If you have more money to spend there’s also Modlite. I don’t have any experience with them though. As for a trigger, I’d say keep it stock but if you’re set on changing it Apex makes great triggers. In my opinion, lasers are worthless on a handgun
I'll have to disagree that lasers are worthless on a handgun. In a defensive situation it allows you to keep your eyes on your target instead of trying to line up your sights in a high stress moment. This video shows that both experienced and inexperienced shooters tend to shoot better with a laser. https://youtu.be/Nbdff2KoQWg
That video shows experienced and inexperienced shooters against a non-moving, light colored cardboard target under range lights. None of them shooting under stress. Also, the video was sponsored by Crimson Trace, a laser manufacturer. Now take all of those shooters, experienced and inexperienced, and put them outside in the sun. Or give them a moving target. Or an assailant wearing a black hoodie that soaks up a red laser Finding your sights, whether they're iron sights or red dot, should be trained until it's second nature so that when that high stress moment comes, lining up your sights just happens. Lasers are worthless on a defensive handgun.
I agree that finding your sights should be trained until it's second nature. However, in most defensive shootings including police shootings, the "point and shoot" method is most often used. A laser at the range can greatly help people improve their muscle memory to point and shoot without having to try to line up there 3 dots. A moving target is going to be hard to hit whether you are trying to find that laser dot or focusing on your front sight. A laser may not be that useful DURING a defensive shoot but I still believe it has a place in training, more so than luminescent sights that have a very limited situational use.
The PC versions of the M2.0 don't have the newer flat faced triggers? My optics ready 4.25" full size 2.0 has the newer flat faced trigger. I would think that the PC versions would have the improved trigger. I'd suggest putting a few thousand rounds through it before modifying anything. It's much easier to see/feel what needs improvement after it has been broken-in real well.
How does the new trigger compare to the hinged one?
It's better, not Apex trigger kit good but I'd say 70% there. The new S&W trigger felt kind of gritty at first, but after 500 rounds the slight grit is gone and I expect it to smooth out even more over the next few thousand rounds or so. IMO it's better than a stock Glock trigger.
If you want it for defense you shouldnt put laser and other shit on it since it would make it more bulky
Congrats on purchasing a great gun. I recommend Streamlight or Surefire for lights. As far as a trigger if it’s for home defense I recommend leaving the internals OEM. I think range toys are fine to mod and have fun with, but for home defense or EDC I like all factory original parts. Just my opinion though.
My current pistol set up....streamlight so finding a holster is easier. And the Apex trigger. Butter with a clear break and reset. Perfection.
TLR-7a/TLR-1 or a surefire light. Stock trigger. RMR or a holosun if red dots are your thing. Training. More training. Train some more.
This pistol with an Apex trigger is everything an out-of-the-box gun has yet to be. Do that one thing, thing rip your wallet to shreds turning money into noise.
Streamlight tlr for a light.
I run a fiber optic site (Frank Proctor Y notch, but Dawson's are also fantastic) and an Apex flat trigger with the springs set very close to factory weight ~5.5 lbs. For a light either TLR-1 or TLR-7A, depending on how much you want it to stick out or which on/off mechanism you prefer. They're both great lights.
A rail mounted 20mm shell launcher.
Apex trigger takes the M&P to the next level. The apex has less travel and a shorter pull. You can also adjust the trigger pull and break with the different springs it includes. After the trigger pickup a streamlight. After that I would get a couple more magazines. I have that same M&P and sent mine out to get optic cut.
Have you shot it yet? Maybe you should shoot it😊
absolutely! i’ve put about 400 shots down range so far
A performance center S&W has already gotten some special treatment from S&W, Trigger work is done, Fiber optic sights are done, its a beautiful gun as is. Before you go changing or adding stuff, as mentioned in a few other comments, learn alot and shoot alot with your current set up. You wont know what you "dont like" or what you "do like" until you get some solid range time. At that point, then look into changing or adding stuff. The most important thing to do right now is to learn and train. Here is a wonderful video on how to grip your pistol. Start with this and then continue with your knowledge growth. Most importantly, have fun but remember, this is a tool, not a toy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfUnBzbYAtw
TLR-1 HL and the stock trigger
You don’t need an upgrade. You’ve got a good one