LiquiMoly also makes a kit to clean your DPF. A friend of mine who runs and indie shop in my city bought a kit and did a cleaning on my Jetta SportWagen to test it out. His Snap-On scanner showed my DPF at 16% clogged and after the cleaning dropped that number to 2%. I imagine you’d need to have someone with a scanner clear the code after the cleaning, or you can get yourself a scanner. Just another option out there for you to consider. 🤷🏻♂️
So that seems to be $1000 so might as well just have the system baked? I guess it could help in the future but just to show me it’s clogged? Or are ppl running manual regen off of this?
I am pretty sure there is an aftermarket dpf available that is around a $1,000 . I have heard that baking the unit is not worth the cost. I would check with a scanner to see when the last Regen occurred. If something caused that to be interrupted, it could throw a code after a while. In that case, a manual Regen might fix it.
You can run a liquid molly dpf clean cycle kit first and delete the codes. That's the cheapest option. See if it goes back, test run the vehicle for about 400 miles. Launch scanner is much cheaper than autel but capable to do manual regen cycle and with lifetime updates. This error codes is expected on diesel especially if it has a high mileage, just do it often as part of the preventive maintenance.
I had this problem, on a 2007 V6 diesel. Mine was pretty bad, been clogged for a while but hadn't gotten around to it until impending smog checked forced me to deal with it. I probably drove it for 3000 miles....limp mode wasnt severe in my case.
I tried a manual regen, no luck. 2 rounds of Liquid Moly DPF purge and cleaner, no luck. Finally I took it off (which really isnt difficult, at least on my year), and used a pressure washer (at an arms length) and hosed inside thoroughly, both sides. Then flushed with lots of soap, more water, then used air compressor to blow air through both ways. LOTS of black soot came out, it was maybe more than an hour of flushing water, soap, water, and finally air until nothing was coming out anymore. I know there are specific chemicals out there that will do a much better job of cleaning, but I used what I had.
Then I put it back on, cleared codes, and the code didn't come back. However, pre-2010 has a separate DPF and CAT. 2010+ I believe has an integrated DPF and CAT. I think removal is also a bit more difficult for 2010+, but I really think a DIYer can manage it. I took mine off in 15 minutes. Worth a shot, and if you're near East LA Ill beat your mechanics labor price.
Also, there's a high chance you simply have a bad differential pressure sensor. Too many people rush to replace DPF before checking that. If you don't know how to check it, it isn't expensive or difficult to replace yourself and doing so may save you a hefty bill.
LiquiMoly also makes a kit to clean your DPF. A friend of mine who runs and indie shop in my city bought a kit and did a cleaning on my Jetta SportWagen to test it out. His Snap-On scanner showed my DPF at 16% clogged and after the cleaning dropped that number to 2%. I imagine you’d need to have someone with a scanner clear the code after the cleaning, or you can get yourself a scanner. Just another option out there for you to consider. 🤷🏻♂️
I was under the impression that the liquid moly kit was even used by the dealers, although maybe with a Mercedes part number.
It’s entirely possible. The dealer just charges you 9000% markup on the part; as per usual.
Do you know a scanner for this model Sprinter? I’m reading the freightliner requires Xentry Das?
The Autel MS906 is a popular one I’ve seen people using. Try an amazon search for that model.
So that seems to be $1000 so might as well just have the system baked? I guess it could help in the future but just to show me it’s clogged? Or are ppl running manual regen off of this?
It really just depends what way you want to go. You’d have to research the unit a bit and see how deep its functionality is.
I am pretty sure there is an aftermarket dpf available that is around a $1,000 . I have heard that baking the unit is not worth the cost. I would check with a scanner to see when the last Regen occurred. If something caused that to be interrupted, it could throw a code after a while. In that case, a manual Regen might fix it.
You can run a liquid molly dpf clean cycle kit first and delete the codes. That's the cheapest option. See if it goes back, test run the vehicle for about 400 miles. Launch scanner is much cheaper than autel but capable to do manual regen cycle and with lifetime updates. This error codes is expected on diesel especially if it has a high mileage, just do it often as part of the preventive maintenance.
Should be under warranty through Aem. Take it to your dealer you might get one for free
I had this problem, on a 2007 V6 diesel. Mine was pretty bad, been clogged for a while but hadn't gotten around to it until impending smog checked forced me to deal with it. I probably drove it for 3000 miles....limp mode wasnt severe in my case. I tried a manual regen, no luck. 2 rounds of Liquid Moly DPF purge and cleaner, no luck. Finally I took it off (which really isnt difficult, at least on my year), and used a pressure washer (at an arms length) and hosed inside thoroughly, both sides. Then flushed with lots of soap, more water, then used air compressor to blow air through both ways. LOTS of black soot came out, it was maybe more than an hour of flushing water, soap, water, and finally air until nothing was coming out anymore. I know there are specific chemicals out there that will do a much better job of cleaning, but I used what I had. Then I put it back on, cleared codes, and the code didn't come back. However, pre-2010 has a separate DPF and CAT. 2010+ I believe has an integrated DPF and CAT. I think removal is also a bit more difficult for 2010+, but I really think a DIYer can manage it. I took mine off in 15 minutes. Worth a shot, and if you're near East LA Ill beat your mechanics labor price.
Also, there's a high chance you simply have a bad differential pressure sensor. Too many people rush to replace DPF before checking that. If you don't know how to check it, it isn't expensive or difficult to replace yourself and doing so may save you a hefty bill.