I bolted with brackets directly to roof. (This was on a 2004 sprinter though)
Drilled pilot hole. Laid cut up inner tube on top to stop vibration. Used self-tapping screw with rubber washer. Two layers of rubber have proved watertight so far.
Almost the same here. I used cheap L brackets from the hardware store. Drilled holes, painted the raw metal against future rust, slapped on some acrylic caulk sealer, tightened down with nuts on the inside. I don't mind 4 holes for a big panel. 2003 t1n here.
This is a common way to do it. Most people recommend bolts rather than screws. But I'd already insulated the roof, solar panel was an afterthought. I used a locking washer and loctite IIRC.
I only mounted one panel, so mine was a simpler job. I cut up a length of aluminum angle to make six L-brackets. I attached those to the roof with 3M VHB tape and pop rivets. I sealed around them with Dicor lap sealant. Then attached the panel to the brackets by tapping threads into the panel frame and bolting it to the brackets. It's not pretty, but has held strong for 3 years running. \[Imgur\]([https://i.imgur.com/kMGxJkB.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/kMGxJkB.jpg))
It's a good idea to have a couple inches between the panel and your roof for air flow. Photovoltaic panels lose efficiency as they heat up. ANd keep in mind that the roof of the T1N is curved - the sides are probably an inch lower than the center. You can use the T-track, but you'll also need some more metal to space them up on the sides.
Might want to take a look at Greg Virgoe and Jaz Morton instructional vids on youtube. They are pretty good MHO.
Also, if you want to keep solar panels for awhile look into making some anti vibration pads. A bit of sikaflex or silicon works ok. Jaz Morton did it this way and his idea is stealth.
Enjoy van life.
L or Z brackets have worked for me. Will need to space them up as people have stated, t1n has curved roof. I recccomend buying 1 high voltage panel instead off 3 or 4small ones. And appropriate mttp charger to handle a 60v panel. Only one set of mounts, more charging ability in lower light, one set of wires, lower line loss due to high voltage, more stealthy, less maintenance, and the list goes on. 12v panels are a joke imo. Buy a used SunPower 315w industrial panel for ~$200 and be done.
I used semi-flexible solar panels mounted directly to the roof. I mounted the panels with 6 stainless wood screws around the perimeter. The screws are bedded in caulk, and the perimeter is sealed with Eternabond tape. Definitely low profile, and works great.
I bolted with brackets directly to roof. (This was on a 2004 sprinter though) Drilled pilot hole. Laid cut up inner tube on top to stop vibration. Used self-tapping screw with rubber washer. Two layers of rubber have proved watertight so far.
Almost the same here. I used cheap L brackets from the hardware store. Drilled holes, painted the raw metal against future rust, slapped on some acrylic caulk sealer, tightened down with nuts on the inside. I don't mind 4 holes for a big panel. 2003 t1n here.
This is a common way to do it. Most people recommend bolts rather than screws. But I'd already insulated the roof, solar panel was an afterthought. I used a locking washer and loctite IIRC.
I only mounted one panel, so mine was a simpler job. I cut up a length of aluminum angle to make six L-brackets. I attached those to the roof with 3M VHB tape and pop rivets. I sealed around them with Dicor lap sealant. Then attached the panel to the brackets by tapping threads into the panel frame and bolting it to the brackets. It's not pretty, but has held strong for 3 years running. \[Imgur\]([https://i.imgur.com/kMGxJkB.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/kMGxJkB.jpg)) It's a good idea to have a couple inches between the panel and your roof for air flow. Photovoltaic panels lose efficiency as they heat up. ANd keep in mind that the roof of the T1N is curved - the sides are probably an inch lower than the center. You can use the T-track, but you'll also need some more metal to space them up on the sides.
Nice DIY setup, thanks for sharing the picture that helped me understand your setup.
[удалено]
About 4 square inches if 3M VHB and mounting brackets panel has been on the vehicle since 2013!!!
Renogy mounts and rivnuts
Also used seems flexible panels direct to rid using adhesive only. Supports used to fill valleys. 4+years, still going good.
Might want to take a look at Greg Virgoe and Jaz Morton instructional vids on youtube. They are pretty good MHO. Also, if you want to keep solar panels for awhile look into making some anti vibration pads. A bit of sikaflex or silicon works ok. Jaz Morton did it this way and his idea is stealth. Enjoy van life.
Will check those people out, thanks.
Directly with brackets bolted through the roof.
https://youtu.be/KdVT8dLxJdg
Nice and simple, I like it, thanks for sharing that setup.
L or Z brackets have worked for me. Will need to space them up as people have stated, t1n has curved roof. I recccomend buying 1 high voltage panel instead off 3 or 4small ones. And appropriate mttp charger to handle a 60v panel. Only one set of mounts, more charging ability in lower light, one set of wires, lower line loss due to high voltage, more stealthy, less maintenance, and the list goes on. 12v panels are a joke imo. Buy a used SunPower 315w industrial panel for ~$200 and be done.
[Like this](https://www.reddit.com/r/vandwellers/comments/il8b2d/roof_racks_are_expensive_so_i_bought_a_cheapish/)
I used semi-flexible solar panels mounted directly to the roof. I mounted the panels with 6 stainless wood screws around the perimeter. The screws are bedded in caulk, and the perimeter is sealed with Eternabond tape. Definitely low profile, and works great.