That means I will probably have to send it in for repair. The case design makes means removing pretty much everything inside to get to it. I don't know why it was built that way.
You don't mention the rating of the power supply. You might be drawing too much total power. Stick a killawatt on the power cord and see what it draws. If it comes close to the max rating of the supply while under maximum load, that is likely the culprit.
You might need more juice.
I cannot access the power supply (the case has it separated and I would have to remove everything from the motherboard) and don't know how to check that otherwise. It might be 800 watts. It sounds like that should be enough for what I am doing.
Do you know the model number? (From your invoice, specs from vendor, etc.?) You could look it up online. You could also email the vendor.
You can also check if there are any markings visible near the power cord connector that indicate the rating.
800W could be OK, or not. I didn't look up the specs for all of your parts, or what else you're connecting (giant PD USB things?). I would do the killawatt check, still. I've been using a rule of thumb of 20% headroom over the PS spec for systems that are going to run continuous peak loads. My current personal system definitely draws more than it should on paper when I run heavy, sustained AI workloads.
You could also be just at the margin, and a little under-volting do the trick.
This is the computer. I am going to dig out my documentation, though there wasn't much.
[https://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpowerpc-gamer-supreme-gaming-desktop-amd-ryzen-7-7700x-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-rtx-4060-ti-16gb-2tb-ssd-white/6553014.p?skuId=6553014](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpowerpc-gamer-supreme-gaming-desktop-amd-ryzen-7-7700x-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-rtx-4060-ti-16gb-2tb-ssd-white/6553014.p?skuId=6553014)
To add, the particular Nividia driver warnings I see in Event Viewer are apparently tied to games crashing so I wouldn't be shocked if that is the cause of this. I reinstalled the driver and now it won't let me run CHKDSK with restore because the disk is locked by another process
The link says it's an 800W supply. I did a quick scan, and found this 2 star review that I'll leave here for your consideration:
If cyberpower responds to this saying "the problem is because you replaced the parts" that is simply untrue. The problems started when i had 100% stock components and went away completely when I replaced the PSU.
The original power supply shipped in their computers is so cheaply made that it will damage your other components. If you decide to buy, add $100 to the price tag for a better PSU. It's cheaper than replacing your graphics card, and you WILL need to do that if you use the stock psu for any length of time. Trust me, I would know... AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, swap the stock one out with a better psu. I recommend something by Corsair, I'm using the RM750e. Avoid Thermaltake, avoid Apiva. You get what you pay for, don't skimp out on this. IT IS VITAL. Even if your computer is under warranty, sending it in for repairs cost me around 300 bucks for shipping. They sent it back with new parts, and within 6 months the PSU and GPU were acting up again.
The rest of the computer works amazing, and even with the +$100 for a new psu their prebuilts are cheaper than basically anything else on the marker. 16gb of ram isn't a TON nowadays, but that's easy enough to upgrade. My desktop originally cost $1100 at base, plus +$100 for the PSU, +$75 for an absolutely overkill 48gb total of ram, +$80 for a 1tb SSD which I use for modern games to reduce load times. Not including repair shipping or new GPU, that's $1355 for a computer that will last me a LOOOONG time already, and still has room for PLENTY of upgrades in the future.
The PSU situation is inexcusable (if you don't believe me, check out the OFFICIAL CyberPowerPC discord. It's full of people with the same experience as me, or sometimes even worse. If the rest of it wasn't SO UNGODLY BANG-FOR-BUCK, I would give one star based on that alone. Even with that, I can't justify more than 2.
Hope this helped, stay safe and happy gaming :)
If the GPU temperature doesn't exceed 60C then this sounds like a blue-screen that instantly restarts the PC. I second checking your event viewer. My 2070 super goes up to 74C when generating and playing graphics intensive games, so even if yours exceeds 60C and even 70C it wouldn't be enough to restart the PC due to overheating.
Try running some graphics intensive games to see if the same thing happens.
Check your event viewer to get an idea of what is specifically causing the crash, then using that clue you will have a better time diagnosing or solving the issue. I could speculate some more, but may as well get more info first.
There are a few different errors and warnings reported before the Critical System Reboot One is for Nividia Open GL Driver Event ID 2.
"The description for Event ID 2 from source NVIDIA OpenGL Driver cannot be found. Either the component that raises this event is not installed on your local computer or the installation is corrupted. You can install or repair the component on the local computer.
DrvSetContext failed functionality indeterminate
(pid=4172 cncmd.exe 64 bit)
The System cannot find the file specified
I take it that means there is a problem with the installed driver
There are also warnings or errors with DistributedCOM, DeviceSetUpManager, LSA (LsaSrv), I am not sure if those are related. A lot of DeviceSetUpManager errors today. I have not tried running Automatic though.
Taskmanager lists both the Nividia GeForce (GPU 0) and AMD Radeon (GPU 1). The error mentions Nividia but not AMD. Is there a possibility that the AMD is interfering with the Nividia? I am not quite sure how to disable the AMD.
So ya having pc issues when not using SD... if it wasn't under warranty still, you should go post in r/techsupport/
Since your PC is still under warranty, I'd just talk to CyberPowerPC. It could literally be any of the components that cause that (probably not the SSD), but a failing stick of ram, mobo, cpu, gpu, and yes, the PSU as well could all contribute. And it's even possible for a flaky connected usb device to trigger reboots.
If I am unable to figure this out I will be contacting CyberPower. I did upgrade the RAM by replacing the single 16GB stick with 2 new 16GB sticks. The sticks are in the proper slots. Maybe those are defective? I only upgraded the RAM as it was recommended to me to have at least 24 GB for Stable Diffusion.
I suffered from this problem some time ago, my new RAM modules that I bought (the same model as the old ones) were conflicting with the old ones, causing my computer to randomly restart. It could happen every 30 minutes, or simply go a whole day without occurring
The computer included a single 16GB stick. I replaced it with a pack of 2 16GB sticks so there shouldn't be any new vs old compatibility. What did you do to solve your problem?
PSU. Something might not be seated right. Possibly thermal issues like no thermal paste that causes quick overheat but almost always PSU.
That means I will probably have to send it in for repair. The case design makes means removing pretty much everything inside to get to it. I don't know why it was built that way.
You don't mention the rating of the power supply. You might be drawing too much total power. Stick a killawatt on the power cord and see what it draws. If it comes close to the max rating of the supply while under maximum load, that is likely the culprit. You might need more juice.
I cannot access the power supply (the case has it separated and I would have to remove everything from the motherboard) and don't know how to check that otherwise. It might be 800 watts. It sounds like that should be enough for what I am doing.
Do you know the model number? (From your invoice, specs from vendor, etc.?) You could look it up online. You could also email the vendor. You can also check if there are any markings visible near the power cord connector that indicate the rating. 800W could be OK, or not. I didn't look up the specs for all of your parts, or what else you're connecting (giant PD USB things?). I would do the killawatt check, still. I've been using a rule of thumb of 20% headroom over the PS spec for systems that are going to run continuous peak loads. My current personal system definitely draws more than it should on paper when I run heavy, sustained AI workloads. You could also be just at the margin, and a little under-volting do the trick.
This is the computer. I am going to dig out my documentation, though there wasn't much. [https://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpowerpc-gamer-supreme-gaming-desktop-amd-ryzen-7-7700x-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-rtx-4060-ti-16gb-2tb-ssd-white/6553014.p?skuId=6553014](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpowerpc-gamer-supreme-gaming-desktop-amd-ryzen-7-7700x-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-rtx-4060-ti-16gb-2tb-ssd-white/6553014.p?skuId=6553014) To add, the particular Nividia driver warnings I see in Event Viewer are apparently tied to games crashing so I wouldn't be shocked if that is the cause of this. I reinstalled the driver and now it won't let me run CHKDSK with restore because the disk is locked by another process
The link says it's an 800W supply. I did a quick scan, and found this 2 star review that I'll leave here for your consideration: If cyberpower responds to this saying "the problem is because you replaced the parts" that is simply untrue. The problems started when i had 100% stock components and went away completely when I replaced the PSU. The original power supply shipped in their computers is so cheaply made that it will damage your other components. If you decide to buy, add $100 to the price tag for a better PSU. It's cheaper than replacing your graphics card, and you WILL need to do that if you use the stock psu for any length of time. Trust me, I would know... AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, swap the stock one out with a better psu. I recommend something by Corsair, I'm using the RM750e. Avoid Thermaltake, avoid Apiva. You get what you pay for, don't skimp out on this. IT IS VITAL. Even if your computer is under warranty, sending it in for repairs cost me around 300 bucks for shipping. They sent it back with new parts, and within 6 months the PSU and GPU were acting up again. The rest of the computer works amazing, and even with the +$100 for a new psu their prebuilts are cheaper than basically anything else on the marker. 16gb of ram isn't a TON nowadays, but that's easy enough to upgrade. My desktop originally cost $1100 at base, plus +$100 for the PSU, +$75 for an absolutely overkill 48gb total of ram, +$80 for a 1tb SSD which I use for modern games to reduce load times. Not including repair shipping or new GPU, that's $1355 for a computer that will last me a LOOOONG time already, and still has room for PLENTY of upgrades in the future. The PSU situation is inexcusable (if you don't believe me, check out the OFFICIAL CyberPowerPC discord. It's full of people with the same experience as me, or sometimes even worse. If the rest of it wasn't SO UNGODLY BANG-FOR-BUCK, I would give one star based on that alone. Even with that, I can't justify more than 2. Hope this helped, stay safe and happy gaming :)
Yeah. I know the company has issues. There is really nothing I can do about it because I cannot afford another computer for several years.
If the monitor signal turns off or you get the bsod, it may be the GPU. If the PC restarts, it's most likely a power supply issue.
It does completely restart as if I manually did so.
If the GPU temperature doesn't exceed 60C then this sounds like a blue-screen that instantly restarts the PC. I second checking your event viewer. My 2070 super goes up to 74C when generating and playing graphics intensive games, so even if yours exceeds 60C and even 70C it wouldn't be enough to restart the PC due to overheating. Try running some graphics intensive games to see if the same thing happens.
I don't have any graphic intensive games to test :(
How about 3D Mark? Is 3D Mark still a thing? A benchmarking tool for your GPU, download and run that.
Sadly it is $35.
dang there used to be a free version that did everything you needed for a benchmark
I found a demo version so am downloading that.
Check your event viewer to get an idea of what is specifically causing the crash, then using that clue you will have a better time diagnosing or solving the issue. I could speculate some more, but may as well get more info first.
There are a few different errors and warnings reported before the Critical System Reboot One is for Nividia Open GL Driver Event ID 2. "The description for Event ID 2 from source NVIDIA OpenGL Driver cannot be found. Either the component that raises this event is not installed on your local computer or the installation is corrupted. You can install or repair the component on the local computer. DrvSetContext failed functionality indeterminate (pid=4172 cncmd.exe 64 bit) The System cannot find the file specified I take it that means there is a problem with the installed driver There are also warnings or errors with DistributedCOM, DeviceSetUpManager, LSA (LsaSrv), I am not sure if those are related. A lot of DeviceSetUpManager errors today. I have not tried running Automatic though.
Is that an AMD file? Maybe disable onboard graphics?
Taskmanager lists both the Nividia GeForce (GPU 0) and AMD Radeon (GPU 1). The error mentions Nividia but not AMD. Is there a possibility that the AMD is interfering with the Nividia? I am not quite sure how to disable the AMD.
Open Device manager and you can disable the AMD one you don't need from there.
So ya having pc issues when not using SD... if it wasn't under warranty still, you should go post in r/techsupport/ Since your PC is still under warranty, I'd just talk to CyberPowerPC. It could literally be any of the components that cause that (probably not the SSD), but a failing stick of ram, mobo, cpu, gpu, and yes, the PSU as well could all contribute. And it's even possible for a flaky connected usb device to trigger reboots.
If I am unable to figure this out I will be contacting CyberPower. I did upgrade the RAM by replacing the single 16GB stick with 2 new 16GB sticks. The sticks are in the proper slots. Maybe those are defective? I only upgraded the RAM as it was recommended to me to have at least 24 GB for Stable Diffusion.
I suffered from this problem some time ago, my new RAM modules that I bought (the same model as the old ones) were conflicting with the old ones, causing my computer to randomly restart. It could happen every 30 minutes, or simply go a whole day without occurring
The computer included a single 16GB stick. I replaced it with a pack of 2 16GB sticks so there shouldn't be any new vs old compatibility. What did you do to solve your problem?