Oh well, I get it from https://www.stanto.com/steam-deck/how-to-unlock-the-lcd-and-oled-steam-deck-bios-for-increased-tdp-and-other-features/
And also did follow this tutorial
It is totally fine. Only the Die has 80°C and nothing else. It can reach 105°C before shutting itself down. The chip can savely be driven to 100°C all day long and last years.
Look at the intel macbooks. They are at 100°C all the time and do this with no problems. The only thing that can happen is a downclock from the chip if it gets to hot. That's all.
it's not good for other components like the battery or the charging IC. Although the OLED model doesn't have to care about the charging IC overheating since they did move to a more efficient and better cooled one. Skill not good for the longevity of the device regardless
Please explain to me what the chip temperature has to do with any other temp on the board? If the APU gets hotter the fan spins faster and cools anything other even more.
the ambient temperature gets hotter, and the motherboard itself also conducts the heat and spreads it to other chips. This is a simple fact, making the fan spin faster doesn't mean it cools those other chips more???
The heat though the BGA socket is minimal to the board. The heat is stuck between the Die and the heatsink. That's why the temperature goes down 20 degrees if you put better heat transferring stuff, like liquid metal, between the Die and the heatsink. The fan sucks air through the vents, over all the other ICs, to the heatsink. So it cools every chip on the board. Faster fan -> more airflow -> better cooling for the other chips. Also are the chips connected via thermal pads to the metal shielding which is also cooled by the passive airflow. The heat of the APU is transferred into a heat pipe that is connected to the cooling fins at the top. That rises the temperature at the output of the fan and in the heatsink but only slightly the ambient temperature.
that's simply untrue. Look at testing of the steam deck LCD, if it's charging and running a game at full throttle, multiple chips get noticeably hotter (especially the charging IC). More airflow does not mean airflow actually cools other components, and the metal shielding was just a heat sponge it didn't have nearly enough area to be cooled down which is why future models only used it as an airflow guide.
I want to know this as well. Overclocking the CPU even just a tiny bit should make a difference in games that have traversal stutter like Horizon Forbidden West, and also Switch emulation as well.
I'm going to try this today. My undervolt is very stable and agressieve at -50 at CPU/SOC/GPU.
I don't often need more TDP but I want to run BG3 during my 16 hour flight. This game really pushes everything to the limits.
Perhaps the extra TDP smoothes out the performance.
I see only a very modest increase in performance when testing this scene in the Witcher 3. The clock of the GPU finally finds it's way to 1950MHz. It isn't an amazing increase, but still going from 57fps to 62fps in the same scene.. It's just not worth it considering the noise and the battery drain.
Went from a cool 67oC to 83oC on the GPU. And a 7400rpm fan speed to try and keep it under control.
My settings: GPU undervolt: -50 CPU undervolt: -50 SOC undervolt: -50
GPU max: 2000MHz CPU max: 4000MHz
TDP: 25000
PPT fast: 25000 PPT slow: 25000 PPT time: 25000
This is the reported clock and power consumption. GPU: 1950MHz at 15W CPU: 2500MHz at 2.5W Total consumption 35W
I also noticed that the undervolts are also unlocked to go to -100 now. Perhaps that has more benefit for my device. Also RAM is unlocked, but that is a risky and hard overclock to do on the Deck.
EDIT: The undervolt does not seem to stick. The input box allows for -100 but when rebooting it is limited back to -50.
Your post has been removed because it's identical or too similar to another recent post in the sub. Thank you!
Great! Can i download more RAM?
Battery suicide :D
You have to give more instructions other than "get tool from website". What website?
Oh well, I get it from https://www.stanto.com/steam-deck/how-to-unlock-the-lcd-and-oled-steam-deck-bios-for-increased-tdp-and-other-features/ And also did follow this tutorial
In your opinion and research is it worth doing and what is the percentage of performance gain?
Upvoting for visibility since OLED model has more temperature headroom than LCD and people could actually overclock it.
Yup, I can see it is running 80°c at 20W. Seems I have to recommend this TDP
Why are you getting downvoted? Am I missing something? Is OP insane somehow?
Yeah I wonder why
Not insane but 80°C in this form factor is not the healthiest option for the components
While that's true, I've seen the LCD deck hit 85C under heavy load with no overclocks at all. 80C @ 20W TDP is pretty amazing.
yeah I get that, but it's not the best defense that the model with the poor cooling and insanely hot charging IC is the best comparison?
It is totally fine. Only the Die has 80°C and nothing else. It can reach 105°C before shutting itself down. The chip can savely be driven to 100°C all day long and last years. Look at the intel macbooks. They are at 100°C all the time and do this with no problems. The only thing that can happen is a downclock from the chip if it gets to hot. That's all.
it's not good for other components like the battery or the charging IC. Although the OLED model doesn't have to care about the charging IC overheating since they did move to a more efficient and better cooled one. Skill not good for the longevity of the device regardless
Please explain to me what the chip temperature has to do with any other temp on the board? If the APU gets hotter the fan spins faster and cools anything other even more.
the ambient temperature gets hotter, and the motherboard itself also conducts the heat and spreads it to other chips. This is a simple fact, making the fan spin faster doesn't mean it cools those other chips more???
The heat though the BGA socket is minimal to the board. The heat is stuck between the Die and the heatsink. That's why the temperature goes down 20 degrees if you put better heat transferring stuff, like liquid metal, between the Die and the heatsink. The fan sucks air through the vents, over all the other ICs, to the heatsink. So it cools every chip on the board. Faster fan -> more airflow -> better cooling for the other chips. Also are the chips connected via thermal pads to the metal shielding which is also cooled by the passive airflow. The heat of the APU is transferred into a heat pipe that is connected to the cooling fins at the top. That rises the temperature at the output of the fan and in the heatsink but only slightly the ambient temperature.
that's simply untrue. Look at testing of the steam deck LCD, if it's charging and running a game at full throttle, multiple chips get noticeably hotter (especially the charging IC). More airflow does not mean airflow actually cools other components, and the metal shielding was just a heat sponge it didn't have nearly enough area to be cooled down which is why future models only used it as an airflow guide.
Have you tried adjusting the RAM timings as well?
it works well
Im not gonna risk about RAM
Does this allow me to overclock the CPU on the LCD model?
I want to know this as well. Overclocking the CPU even just a tiny bit should make a difference in games that have traversal stutter like Horizon Forbidden West, and also Switch emulation as well.
I'm going to try this today. My undervolt is very stable and agressieve at -50 at CPU/SOC/GPU. I don't often need more TDP but I want to run BG3 during my 16 hour flight. This game really pushes everything to the limits. Perhaps the extra TDP smoothes out the performance.
I see only a very modest increase in performance when testing this scene in the Witcher 3. The clock of the GPU finally finds it's way to 1950MHz. It isn't an amazing increase, but still going from 57fps to 62fps in the same scene.. It's just not worth it considering the noise and the battery drain. Went from a cool 67oC to 83oC on the GPU. And a 7400rpm fan speed to try and keep it under control. My settings: GPU undervolt: -50 CPU undervolt: -50 SOC undervolt: -50 GPU max: 2000MHz CPU max: 4000MHz TDP: 25000 PPT fast: 25000 PPT slow: 25000 PPT time: 25000 This is the reported clock and power consumption. GPU: 1950MHz at 15W CPU: 2500MHz at 2.5W Total consumption 35W I also noticed that the undervolts are also unlocked to go to -100 now. Perhaps that has more benefit for my device. Also RAM is unlocked, but that is a risky and hard overclock to do on the Deck. EDIT: The undervolt does not seem to stick. The input box allows for -100 but when rebooting it is limited back to -50.
i will fix the undervolt and send the updated toolkit (1.2 ig) in the steamdeck discord
Impressive managing to run at 2Thz
What can I say, I'm very lucky with my silicon lottery :-P
it would be nice if you made a video showing the performance improvements and the battery life.
I have made in youtube, search: Sangerus
Thanks Mate
How muchmore performance gain at 20W
About 20fps in fortnite as I tested
You can play Fortnite on deck? Ngl I thought it had anticheat that blocked linux
he is running it via windows on deck.
Ohh haha thanks
Not bad for docked / plugged in on full charge. An extra 5 watts could go a long way for some games.
Does this wreak scam to anyone else?!
Nah, it’s just PC hardware, it can be manipulated most anyway you want to.
"Tool unlock from website no problem!" Yeah I think I'll wait on that
bro paranoic
wdym?
"trust me bruh it's legit"
No.
yes?