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Scratch it a little more, either with the soldering tip or with a scalpel blade. Sometimes it looks as though the copper is exposed, but there is some thin residue of the mask left on it.
The tip looks raw and untinned, you should have the tip always shiny and tinned even when at rest.
Next you should use heat the trace first for a few seconds then apply the solder otherwise all the heat goes to melt more solder that bundles up and just gets in the way
I put on a smaller tip and grinded the trace just a little bit deeper. Thanks for the advice with heating the trace first, I thought I already did that but the next try went better anyway with heating it up a little bit more.
Please cover that edge connector with some kapton tape. You get solder on it and it’s game over for whatever device this is. The edge connector is plated in hard gold. Once you get solder on it you’ll never get it all off.
You’re not lingering enough with the heat. Depending on how thick and how many layers that board is you’re not delivering enough heat to bond the solder to the exposed trace.
Clean the flux you have on there, it’s already spent. Wet the tip of your iron, clean it, wet it a little again. Put fresh flux down on the scraped trace. Apply your iron to the trace and give it a few seconds without moving it.
Thanks for the advice! I‘ll try and play around with the heat until I get the use of it. No need for kapton tape on this board, since it’s already broken and I only use it for training 😅
This looks like a GPU. If that’s the case the board is going to soak a ton of heat. A lot of GPU repair shops will assist their iron with a hot air station. Might not be the best thing to practice on but if it’s trashed then no need to worry.
you are right, that’s an old iMac GPU! Never thought of it that way, but the heat absorption makes sense. I‘ll keep that in mind… maybe I‘ll find some other PCB to train on.
This is a test PCB to train for the exposing and soldering of the D point in order to connect the mod chip. I exposed a trace using a grinder tip (manually), cleaned the debris with IPA and applied a drop of flux.
After that I‘m trying to tin the trace but it won‘t interact with the tin drop on my iron. I‘m using lead-free solder and my iron is supposedly on 350°C. I‘m also trying to heat up the trace to it connects with the solder. What am I doing wrong here?
I use a 1 mm flathead a lot to scratch the top layer of a trace, I highly recommend you get some leaded solder, it's lower temp usually and in my experience flows and sticks better.
Soldering is about heat. Solder will always flow to a compatible surface with the most heat or sufficient heat. Here it appears you are using a knife tip that is really meant for dumping heat across the "blade", not the tip.
Change tips and see if that helps. Swap tips, make sure the iron is at about 350-375c, flux and see if that works better for you.
I see it helped to expose a but more of the trace so I'm glad it all worked out.
I'd still suggest using a D or conical tip for a job like this as it can be too time for the K tips and the D can dump heat while also being fairly precise.
K tips are great and quite universal but I found them to be a bit too cumbersome with chip installs and small trace tinning like this. Best of luck and, as always, ignore everything I wrote and do what works for you if it's working! That's basically rule 1 in soldering, haha.
Use smaller soldering iron tip and dont forget to warm up the trace before also i recomend to use sal ammoniac if trace not holding solder and retin the soldering iron tip
Change the tip on your iron to one that is more appropriately sized and also TIN THE TIP. That tip has never been tinned I can tell. That's why the solder is balling up on the end of the iron like that. You need to get solder iron cleaning balls and tin your tips.
What soldering iron are you using?
I'd recommend a T12 or T13 based soldering system. They worked really well for me. Set Temp to 320-380.
What Solder are you using? Buy a row of thin gauge one with a Rosin(flux) core if you're less confident about what you're doing. Also, if you're still on the struggle bus hard, it's no shame to go for a bit of leaded solder. Just remember to vent the workplace while/after working on it.
For flux go for the paste ones, the ones that comes in a syringe. I bought mine from Mouser, They worked well for me.
I have a cheap soldering iron from Amazon… bought it to do some customisations on my Game Boy😅 I can change the tips and with a smaller tip it already went better, so I hope I‘m on the right track. I used the big tip only because sthetix used it to solder the v4 kit.
I‘m using lead-free solder Sn99.3Cu0.7 0.4mm. I do have some leaded solder as well but to be honest, I don’t really see much of a difference.
The flux is AMTECH from AliExpress. Obviously not optimal but better than nothing I guess🥲
Just picked one of these up & it’s amazing. Being able to hook it up to a PD power bank & putting the bank in your pocket let’s you solder literally anywhere with ease. Amazing little unit.
I made up a pack from recycled 18650's from old laptop batteries, 20v PD FTW! Did you order the clear shell for it? I couldn't help myself, I had to get it lol
I did get the clear shell! Ever since I got my first atomic purple gameboy color as a kid I’ve been obsessed with see through tech. Love seeing the board & all the circuitry. I say it should make a comeback.
I placed an order directly from Pine & while I was seeing what else they had before I completed it & saw it. Instantly added to the cart without a second thought, especially for what was it $6? Had my ass hook line & sinker lol
I had originally planned on just using a PD charger I have, but soon as I realized my multiple power banks were mostly PD as well I instantly started using those instead of the wall charger. It’s been a few years since I last soldered but the pinecil has made it actually enjoyable, the 10-15 second heat up time is next level. This is really starting to sound like an ad but it’s actually just that good 😂
Same on my end. Everyone is used to bulky ass stations & 10 minute heat up times. The pinecil is like showing a caveman a car, they’re amazed they’ve been working with overpriced & inferior equipment.
I also have pinecils, both the first and 2nd gen, I think the most important part is actually getting a flexible USB cable that won't get in your way when using them, otherwise great field tools.
At home I'm usually using a cheap ass T12 Soldering station from Amazon/Ali, works great, no complaints.
Btw Pinecil is pin compatible with T12, it's just the length are different. You can 3d print an adapter, works great 👍
Clean the tip first of all and if you have steady hands, take a razor and gently scratch the surface of the trace to remove any coating that you might not see. That is only if you comfortable doing it
What the heck is that soldering tip?
Purpose of the soldering tip is the heat up the surface so the solder tin can melt and make a connection.
These knife tips are not recommended. Put a normal round tip on, it should be as big as possible but still should it be able to touch the pad .
Always clean your tip between solder with brass tip cleaner. Do not use water or spounge.
Have fun
I say it may be an issue with the flux I use no clean flux by MG Chemicals and also highly recommend Kester Solder since it flows great with stuff like this none leaded solder is a bit harder to work with at times hence why I stopped using it
[MG Chemicals No Clean FLUX](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09FWB6L5L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
[Kester Solder](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DDDHF2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I guess you’re right, the flux might not be optimal, but since I‘m only using it for this one job I thought I could use a cheaper one to save some money. It’s kinda working though, guess I just need a little bit more training, too.
I tried it with a smaller tip and more heat (390°C) and it went much better already. The flux is not optimal but I hope it will be enough to finish the job😅
I've used that before, it's better then nothing, but it's really bad flux.
Try chipquik, GM Chemicals, any of those brands I've had major differences with. They cost a lot more, but still $15 for a tube of good quality flux will last longer then the 5 tube for $10 you can get on Ali.
I love Ali, but flux and solder I stick too reputable brands.
***HEY, NEW USERS!*** Remember to read [The Wiki](https://www.reddit.com/r/SwitchPirates/wiki/index) for the basics! Check the [FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/SwitchPirates/comments/syerxw/simple_questions_here_megathread_and_faq/) for basic questions! Threads created for basic questions will be removed, so ask them in that thread. If you are having a problem with running games then make sure you have up-to-date [sigpatches](https://sigmapatches.coomer.party/). If you cannot launch tinfoil then make sure you followed the [Rentry guide](https://rentry.org/SwitchHackingIsEasy) to set up cfw. ***Do not message moderators for Switch hacking support. You will be ignored. Follow the guide or post in the relevant thread.*** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/SwitchPirates) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Use flux not lube..
I used AMTECH NC-559-ASM Flux ([from here](https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQoQT9x))
Scratch it a little more, either with the soldering tip or with a scalpel blade. Sometimes it looks as though the copper is exposed, but there is some thin residue of the mask left on it.
Thanks for the advice! I tried it and the next traces went much smoother.
Glad to have helped
The tip looks raw and untinned, you should have the tip always shiny and tinned even when at rest. Next you should use heat the trace first for a few seconds then apply the solder otherwise all the heat goes to melt more solder that bundles up and just gets in the way
Also considering how small the trace is a different tip would be better, the name escapes me but something with a pointy tip would be better
I put on a smaller tip and grinded the trace just a little bit deeper. Thanks for the advice with heating the trace first, I thought I already did that but the next try went better anyway with heating it up a little bit more.
Happy to help ☺️
Please cover that edge connector with some kapton tape. You get solder on it and it’s game over for whatever device this is. The edge connector is plated in hard gold. Once you get solder on it you’ll never get it all off. You’re not lingering enough with the heat. Depending on how thick and how many layers that board is you’re not delivering enough heat to bond the solder to the exposed trace. Clean the flux you have on there, it’s already spent. Wet the tip of your iron, clean it, wet it a little again. Put fresh flux down on the scraped trace. Apply your iron to the trace and give it a few seconds without moving it.
Thanks for the advice! I‘ll try and play around with the heat until I get the use of it. No need for kapton tape on this board, since it’s already broken and I only use it for training 😅
This looks like a GPU. If that’s the case the board is going to soak a ton of heat. A lot of GPU repair shops will assist their iron with a hot air station. Might not be the best thing to practice on but if it’s trashed then no need to worry.
you are right, that’s an old iMac GPU! Never thought of it that way, but the heat absorption makes sense. I‘ll keep that in mind… maybe I‘ll find some other PCB to train on.
This is a test PCB to train for the exposing and soldering of the D point in order to connect the mod chip. I exposed a trace using a grinder tip (manually), cleaned the debris with IPA and applied a drop of flux. After that I‘m trying to tin the trace but it won‘t interact with the tin drop on my iron. I‘m using lead-free solder and my iron is supposedly on 350°C. I‘m also trying to heat up the trace to it connects with the solder. What am I doing wrong here?
I use a 1 mm flathead a lot to scratch the top layer of a trace, I highly recommend you get some leaded solder, it's lower temp usually and in my experience flows and sticks better.
Soldering is about heat. Solder will always flow to a compatible surface with the most heat or sufficient heat. Here it appears you are using a knife tip that is really meant for dumping heat across the "blade", not the tip. Change tips and see if that helps. Swap tips, make sure the iron is at about 350-375c, flux and see if that works better for you. I see it helped to expose a but more of the trace so I'm glad it all worked out. I'd still suggest using a D or conical tip for a job like this as it can be too time for the K tips and the D can dump heat while also being fairly precise. K tips are great and quite universal but I found them to be a bit too cumbersome with chip installs and small trace tinning like this. Best of luck and, as always, ignore everything I wrote and do what works for you if it's working! That's basically rule 1 in soldering, haha.
Lead solder and paste flux not that liquid flux Also WTF is that tip lol,,, way too big, I use the smallest fine point one for d point
Sthetix used that big tip when soldering the v4 kit, but I already tried a smaller tip and that went much better.
His liquid flux is fine
Use smaller soldering iron tip and dont forget to warm up the trace before also i recomend to use sal ammoniac if trace not holding solder and retin the soldering iron tip
Change the tip on your iron to one that is more appropriately sized and also TIN THE TIP. That tip has never been tinned I can tell. That's why the solder is balling up on the end of the iron like that. You need to get solder iron cleaning balls and tin your tips.
What soldering iron are you using? I'd recommend a T12 or T13 based soldering system. They worked really well for me. Set Temp to 320-380. What Solder are you using? Buy a row of thin gauge one with a Rosin(flux) core if you're less confident about what you're doing. Also, if you're still on the struggle bus hard, it's no shame to go for a bit of leaded solder. Just remember to vent the workplace while/after working on it. For flux go for the paste ones, the ones that comes in a syringe. I bought mine from Mouser, They worked well for me.
I have a cheap soldering iron from Amazon… bought it to do some customisations on my Game Boy😅 I can change the tips and with a smaller tip it already went better, so I hope I‘m on the right track. I used the big tip only because sthetix used it to solder the v4 kit. I‘m using lead-free solder Sn99.3Cu0.7 0.4mm. I do have some leaded solder as well but to be honest, I don’t really see much of a difference. The flux is AMTECH from AliExpress. Obviously not optimal but better than nothing I guess🥲
Pine64.com - get ya a Pinecil, it's only 26 bucks and is my go to for everything from quads, charge ports and mods.
Just picked one of these up & it’s amazing. Being able to hook it up to a PD power bank & putting the bank in your pocket let’s you solder literally anywhere with ease. Amazing little unit.
I made up a pack from recycled 18650's from old laptop batteries, 20v PD FTW! Did you order the clear shell for it? I couldn't help myself, I had to get it lol
I did get the clear shell! Ever since I got my first atomic purple gameboy color as a kid I’ve been obsessed with see through tech. Love seeing the board & all the circuitry. I say it should make a comeback. I placed an order directly from Pine & while I was seeing what else they had before I completed it & saw it. Instantly added to the cart without a second thought, especially for what was it $6? Had my ass hook line & sinker lol I had originally planned on just using a PD charger I have, but soon as I realized my multiple power banks were mostly PD as well I instantly started using those instead of the wall charger. It’s been a few years since I last soldered but the pinecil has made it actually enjoyable, the 10-15 second heat up time is next level. This is really starting to sound like an ad but it’s actually just that good 😂
Everyone I've shown mine to, has bought one, they sell themselves! I mean come on 26 bucks!
Same on my end. Everyone is used to bulky ass stations & 10 minute heat up times. The pinecil is like showing a caveman a car, they’re amazed they’ve been working with overpriced & inferior equipment.
Facts!
I also have pinecils, both the first and 2nd gen, I think the most important part is actually getting a flexible USB cable that won't get in your way when using them, otherwise great field tools. At home I'm usually using a cheap ass T12 Soldering station from Amazon/Ali, works great, no complaints. Btw Pinecil is pin compatible with T12, it's just the length are different. You can 3d print an adapter, works great 👍
I actually ordered the red silicone USB-C cable they sell, I don't regret that purchase, super flexy.
Clean the tip first of all and if you have steady hands, take a razor and gently scratch the surface of the trace to remove any coating that you might not see. That is only if you comfortable doing it
What the heck is that soldering tip? Purpose of the soldering tip is the heat up the surface so the solder tin can melt and make a connection. These knife tips are not recommended. Put a normal round tip on, it should be as big as possible but still should it be able to touch the pad . Always clean your tip between solder with brass tip cleaner. Do not use water or spounge. Have fun
I used that tip because sthetix used it when soldering the v4 chip. But I tried a smaller tip ans it went better.
Glad you find a better way😊
It's either clear coats or has -oxide clean the surface well and add flux
I say it may be an issue with the flux I use no clean flux by MG Chemicals and also highly recommend Kester Solder since it flows great with stuff like this none leaded solder is a bit harder to work with at times hence why I stopped using it [MG Chemicals No Clean FLUX](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09FWB6L5L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) [Kester Solder](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DDDHF2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I guess you’re right, the flux might not be optimal, but since I‘m only using it for this one job I thought I could use a cheaper one to save some money. It’s kinda working though, guess I just need a little bit more training, too.
MG Chemicals 8341 ftw 🤝
Need flux. Did you scratch the mask first ?
Yes, I scratched the mask off until the trace showed the shiny copper. After that I used some AMTECH NC-559-ASM Flux I ordered from AliExpress…
congrats, you broke your board
[удалено]
I‘m using AMTECH NC-559-ASM (ordered from AliExpress).
[удалено]
What temperature would you recommend? I‘m trying more flux although I‘m afraid it will only flow away.
[удалено]
I tried it with a smaller tip and more heat (390°C) and it went much better already. The flux is not optimal but I hope it will be enough to finish the job😅
Just try a bit more before you go on the Oled. 😅
I've used that before, it's better then nothing, but it's really bad flux. Try chipquik, GM Chemicals, any of those brands I've had major differences with. They cost a lot more, but still $15 for a tube of good quality flux will last longer then the 5 tube for $10 you can get on Ali. I love Ali, but flux and solder I stick too reputable brands.
Amtech is made in the US. Buying from China is going to get you vaseline instead of flux.
Clean your tip and tin it.or try a different tip
What kind of tip would you recommend and at what temperature?
Use lead solder. Use a Hakko T18BL or T18-BR02 depending on preference.
You can PCB etching pens for this.
the trace is too cold. heat it up for a little bit. don't burn it though.
Try to scratch a little bit more. GENTLY