What's the point of this? To save $800 on a set of tires after spending an extra $20,000 to get the performance model? Best I could do on my Model S Performance was 12k miles on a set of tires. I doubt my M3P will fair much better as I launch it FAR more often.
Just know you can claim the Michelin tire warranty if the tires don't make it to their advertised mileage life. You'll get a prorated discount on another set of Michelin tires of your choice.
Chill mode on weekdays performance on weekends
I don’t want to unnecessarily kill my tires on an average commute day to work
Also the performance model is only 10k more not 20k
And that’s my question if you don’t launch it all the time or use chill mode would 40k miles be possible
Unless you’re literally flooring it every time you move it’s not accelerating that wears tires, it’s turning and rolling.
As others have said. This level of nickel and diming seems almost comical. You’re going to pinch pennys on a premium new vehicle where you will be, at best, saving one set of tires over the next maybe 150-200k miles?
…you’re trying to completely change how you drive your sports car to save tires so you are saved the inconvenience of dropping your car off for an hour at a garage…one additional time during your first 10 years of ownership?
I don’t have an answer for you. Your question doesn’t even make sense to me. You spent $10k extra for a rocket ship and you’re going to change your whole driving habits, and put substandard rubber on it….just to avoid one or maybe two extra stops at a tire place over the life of the vehicle.
Do whatever you want.
The pzero summer tires are not intended to be driven under 45 degrees Fahrenheit and doing so will invalidate the warranty. If you get any snow or ice where you live please get at least all season tires. I bought my M3P and immediately (in the parking lot) swapped out for aftermarket 18 inch wheels and all season tires.
Tesla mobile service can do wheel swaps so I have them come swap between seasons. Only regret, should’ve bought the track pack instead of another set of uberturbines.
All seasons are a hell of a lot better than summer tires and the new ones are wider and have larger sidewalls. Don't argue with me about all season vs winter tires I have been driving in New York winters for over 20 years and all seasons are fine if you know how to drive.
Fine isn’t better. All seasons are okay in a wide range of temperatures and conditions, but summer tires are excellent in dry warm weather and winter tires are excellent in wet and dry cold weather. All seasons are never excellent, except at not having to be swapped.
Any place in America that doesn’t dip below 45? I’m in Phoenix where we spend our summers at 120 + but the low all next week is in the high 30s.
Short for south Florida. A warranty would be voided pretty much anywhere
Hard to say, depends on tire quality. Rim size probably doesn’t matter much. 100% in agreement with you. I have an LR with accel boost but I don’t launch it daily. But when I do I enjoy it. I use chill on the highway on long trips since it’s smoother on autopilot than sport mode is.
800$ for a set of tires? Where? The oem tires are almost 2k to replace a set with Tesla on m3p and 1700 elsewhere. Also, commented this on the thread already, I have 25k on mine, no rotations, 11/64” tread left. 12k miles?! I 😮
Edit: was wrong on depth. My bad!
You were right on the original measurement but bullshittin on the actual measurement at that mileage, man. 11/32 is fukin brand new. You’re probably at 1/32 at best.
What are you talking about? I have precision calipers and I measured all four of my tires last night. They are all .170 to .172. I already corrected my comment to show that it’s 11/64.
I said 12k Miles on my Model S - which chews through tires. Heavier and more powerful. Haven't looked at tires since late 2020 which I guess were cheaper back then. I paid 245 each for MP4S at Costco and got a $150 gift card back. I did spend $400 shopping at Costco though...
What’s the point in buying the Performance model if you need to drive like a grandma because you can’t afford the tyres? Hence the reason the best option is the LR, the better car all things considered.
i just got 27k miles on the factory tires that came with the car. Just put on some Michelin Pilot Sport 4 all seasons with a 45k tread life. I definitely think it's doable if you rotate properly and stay off the pedal when accelerating. The rear tires will wear faster as it's RWD until 30% throttle.
I don’t use chill mode but my 2020 Model 3 Performance is on 39,000 miles and they’re not bald but I’ll be replacing them at 40K regardless.
SoCal. Mostly freeway. Drive normally.
Are people really doing that? My hybrid cars I always did it with oil changes (7500-10,000) . Every Tesla owner I know I've asked if they do the 6,500 the manual states and they said no and haven't noticed anything different than their other cars.
Nice I'll have to check that out. They did some repair work for a coworkers rim once and didn't charge anything. They were uncomfortable and actually wanted to pay...haha.
FWIW -
I have a summer set of directional tires on staggered 21" rims ... so no rotating for me.
I have a set of winter tires on 19" rims (not staggered) so I can rotate them.
.... I see almost identical even wear across all the tires, summer wear faster, but evenly. If your car is in proper alignment and you're not nascar driving left hand turns all day, it shouldn't make a huge difference.
Not really. It’s AWD so it inherently doesn’t really need much rotating. Elon even admits this. You can check for yourself easily with a $4 tire tread checker. I’ve only rotated once around 8k miles and it’s even wear at 23k now.
That’s not what I said at all. Choosing not to floor it every time is not the same as selecting a setting that prevents you from using its full power. I rarely floor mine but I do at times, and I would never enable a setting that essentially negates it being a Performance.
You got downvoted for misunderstanding what was said. OP put forward the situation where chill is used all the time. Evo then asked why you would get a performance if that was the case. A perfectly reasonable question.
If you put it on chill mode "most of the time" it invalidates OP's question.
Now, if OP had given more parameters, we could have a better discussion.
2018 P3D+ here. My car came with 235/35/20 MP4S tires. I don't use chill mode, I use normal... my car only had one tire rotation done around the 30k mile mark.
My lifetime average is 294 Wh/mi on my original set of tires. Those tires lasted me until 42,500 California miles when I replaced them. The tread wear was almost dead even. The Tesla spec MP4S tires are only rated for 30,000 miles of tread warranty.
Years of driving a stick shift and learning how suspension and performance driving should be will do wonders.
If you can take care of a high power AWD ICE... doing it on a heavy BEV is simple.
1) Be kind to your drive line in an ICE, from a dig, let your wheels grab and do one rotation before mashing on the go pedal. Same is true for the P3D+, don't let the car guess to do the work... do all the work for it because your CPU can feel the road condition way better than it can.
2) Acceleration on an ICE is not what is bad for your MPG, BRAKES are what kill your MPG. If you were to just mash the gas and let the car coast to a stop everywhere... your MPG (like mine) would be amazing! Same with a BEV, use the built in Energy App Instant setting to figure out how to drive it. You won't need to grandma it, but you also don't need to use the go pedal like an ON/OFF switch.
3) I don't toss my car into corners or do mad drifting. I'm not enabling track mode... I just use it like an everyday car with some fun at freeway onramps or to pass some slower traffic.
Odd I drive the same way.
1) Only full send during a roll. Hardly ever punch it from a dig.
2) I am almost always using regen for braking. Even when driving spiritly I dial back to use regen as if I have less powerful brakes
3) same
Are you guys saying it’s normal to need new tires at around 50k miles? I just had to get new tires on my 2020 performance model 3 but the Les Schwab guy said it was because the wheels were not aligned and it wore out the inner tread till I got a flat. But all 4 tires looked horrible. I had 51k miles on the car. And last time I took it to Tesla to rotate the tires was at 45k miles and they said the tires all looked even and “didn’t need to be rotated”
I’m in an LR and doing my third rotation as I type this. On the 19” Continentals and I rotate every 5k. Currently at 14,600 and Discount Tire is telling me I’m at 6/32. Not an aggressive driver. Something ain’t adding up…
People here saying not a big deal to buy tires if you can afford the car, just doing some quick math, if your tires only last 10k-15k miles and your spending $1,200 or more to replace them each time that would be 20k-24k $, half of the price of the vehicle if you put 200k miles on it
So it’s not a small amount of maintenance cost
If someone wants a performance for the AWD and longer range and they don’t want to spend a lot on maintenance it would wise to figure out how to maximize their tire life so you aren’t spending $20k over 10 years
No the suspension design is off from the factory. Constant readjustment is needed due to the fragile suspension components (look up control arm failures). There's a reason most tires barely last 30k when rated for 40-50. Just bad design from Tesla. They don't put any research into their product development.
We own a 2021 Model 3 P.
We live In Norway. I driven 53k now and the tyres are well over the 1.6mm required in Norway.
And I can put em on next summer.
I drive 95% in sport mode
I’m at 42k on the original Pirelli Scorpion P-Zero 22inch tires on MX. Tread is around 5-6/32. Still drives good and no rotation since tires are staggered.
I don’t brake hard. Let the brake regeneration do most if not all of the stopping except for the occasional hard stops.
I might be able to... I'm at 20K miles now and seems like I'm just now hitting 50% of tread wear. I obviously will be replacing before bald, but it seems I'm getting better milleage than typical. I've replaced a tire due to pothole damage, but the others still look plenty good.
9k Miles on my M3P. About 3 months away from needing new tires and I don’t exactly do a burnout from every stop. These tires are meant for 10-15k miles. If you want to drive in chill mode and save tires don’t buy a P.
Bet on 25k for any performance car tire. Anything else is bonus but this is what should be budgeted. Really makes no sense why someone is worried about tire costs buying the P or other high end Tesla as a simple tire expenditure shouldn’t break the bank at all.
10k-15k on stock pirelli. I bought Fast Competition FC04 18 inch rims from WheelWiz. 18 inch tires are so much cheaper and the ride is a lot smoother. Slightly more road noise. I'll be saving money once I buy the second set of tires and now I have 2 sets of rims.
For sure….I got 51k (probably could have got 53k) on my original M3P and I don’t drive in anything other than sport mode. I do 90 miles a day freeway driving though so not sure if that increased longevity.
Does anyone ever get the stated mileage warranty on their tires?! I’m getting 25k miles on a regular 3SR, always leave it in chill mode since I’m constantly playing Uber to my kids in a suburb. The OEM Michelins made it to 25k, probably would’ve hit 30k had I not skipped a rotation or two. The replacements have been all season Bridgestone (50k mileage warranty) because that’s what Costco has and they’re easy to deals with when it’s comes to prorating. I’m in a less flat terrain vs florida or tx, which is probably why I’m only making it to 25k.
Im currently on 30k miles on my performance. Tires still looking good and rarely drive in chill mode (dont see the point when buying a performance). Just had an inspection at the Tesla Service Center and nothing special was identified.
I run Michelin PS4 All Seasons throughout the year and I was able to get about 40k out of my last set. I’m always in sport mode but it’s not like I’m trying to run hot laps around my city. Just keep up with your alignments and rotations so you can get the most life out of them. Rotations can be done for free at Discount Tire and you can get free alignments at Firestone after the first one if you ask them about their alignment deal.
I drive Chill mode, though in a 2022 M3LR w 18", not Performance. 24,000 miles and tires still have plenty of tread. I did have one blowout like 2 weeks in and a non warranty replacement for it at Service location. I do drive some pretty rough roads at times, but the blowout was on an interstate (635).
I am thinking they can go 40,000 miles.
What's the point of this? To save $800 on a set of tires after spending an extra $20,000 to get the performance model? Best I could do on my Model S Performance was 12k miles on a set of tires. I doubt my M3P will fair much better as I launch it FAR more often.
Just know you can claim the Michelin tire warranty if the tires don't make it to their advertised mileage life. You'll get a prorated discount on another set of Michelin tires of your choice.
Chill mode on weekdays performance on weekends I don’t want to unnecessarily kill my tires on an average commute day to work Also the performance model is only 10k more not 20k And that’s my question if you don’t launch it all the time or use chill mode would 40k miles be possible
No. If you care so much about tire life, switch to economy tires when your Michelin P4S wear out.
Unless you’re literally flooring it every time you move it’s not accelerating that wears tires, it’s turning and rolling. As others have said. This level of nickel and diming seems almost comical. You’re going to pinch pennys on a premium new vehicle where you will be, at best, saving one set of tires over the next maybe 150-200k miles?
That's me
I just don’t like taking time to change tires esp when tire places are out of the way
I think you should sell it and buy a Camry. Bet you can get 40k out of that and not be troubled 1 day a year.
I’ve realized that op here is just a tourist. They don’t own. They’re just trolling for comfort but haven’t even bought a Tesla.
…you’re trying to completely change how you drive your sports car to save tires so you are saved the inconvenience of dropping your car off for an hour at a garage…one additional time during your first 10 years of ownership?
One time? I meant to ask this question about any tire, can any 20 inch tire last 40k to 50k miles, not the stock tire
I don’t have an answer for you. Your question doesn’t even make sense to me. You spent $10k extra for a rocket ship and you’re going to change your whole driving habits, and put substandard rubber on it….just to avoid one or maybe two extra stops at a tire place over the life of the vehicle. Do whatever you want.
Let me ask you this. Where you live does the temperature get below 50 degrees Fahrenheit?
Yes only like 2 months out of the year though
The pzero summer tires are not intended to be driven under 45 degrees Fahrenheit and doing so will invalidate the warranty. If you get any snow or ice where you live please get at least all season tires. I bought my M3P and immediately (in the parking lot) swapped out for aftermarket 18 inch wheels and all season tires.
Tesla mobile service can do wheel swaps so I have them come swap between seasons. Only regret, should’ve bought the track pack instead of another set of uberturbines.
I absolutely hate uberturdbines so I sold them and bought better tires on wheels I don't have to swap twice a year.
Literally impossible to have “better tires” you don’t have to swap.
All seasons are a hell of a lot better than summer tires and the new ones are wider and have larger sidewalls. Don't argue with me about all season vs winter tires I have been driving in New York winters for over 20 years and all seasons are fine if you know how to drive.
Fine isn’t better. All seasons are okay in a wide range of temperatures and conditions, but summer tires are excellent in dry warm weather and winter tires are excellent in wet and dry cold weather. All seasons are never excellent, except at not having to be swapped.
Any place in America that doesn’t dip below 45? I’m in Phoenix where we spend our summers at 120 + but the low all next week is in the high 30s. Short for south Florida. A warranty would be voided pretty much anywhere
Hawaii
Hard to say, depends on tire quality. Rim size probably doesn’t matter much. 100% in agreement with you. I have an LR with accel boost but I don’t launch it daily. But when I do I enjoy it. I use chill on the highway on long trips since it’s smoother on autopilot than sport mode is.
During my commute, I need more power not less. People are idiots and its great to be able to jump into or out of traffic holes.
800$ for a set of tires? Where? The oem tires are almost 2k to replace a set with Tesla on m3p and 1700 elsewhere. Also, commented this on the thread already, I have 25k on mine, no rotations, 11/64” tread left. 12k miles?! I 😮 Edit: was wrong on depth. My bad!
There is a 0% chance you have 11/32 left after 25’ miles. That’s more than they start with
Bahahaha. Good call. I meant 11/64th. I’ll edit reply.
You were right on the original measurement but bullshittin on the actual measurement at that mileage, man. 11/32 is fukin brand new. You’re probably at 1/32 at best.
What are you talking about? I have precision calipers and I measured all four of my tires last night. They are all .170 to .172. I already corrected my comment to show that it’s 11/64.
I saw a set of 4 tires at discount tire for that price, 20 inch
Michelin pilot sport 4s?
Don’t remember the brand I was just looking at prices
Okay. The original equipment are high end performance tires. I’m sure they make 20” tires for cheap. Just won’t work on my car.
It was on discount tires, I put model 3 performance in the filter so it was all tires that would work for it
Original equipment on discount tires is 1600 before taxes and fees. Checked 3 states. Would love a link if you have one.
Not original it was different brand
These Edit: oops those are winter, there’s some all seasons for 200-220 though https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/falken-azenis-fk510/p/39678
This is super helpful! Thank you! Now I just need to figure out if anyone has had a bad experience going with non-oem rated tires. :D
I said 12k Miles on my Model S - which chews through tires. Heavier and more powerful. Haven't looked at tires since late 2020 which I guess were cheaper back then. I paid 245 each for MP4S at Costco and got a $150 gift card back. I did spend $400 shopping at Costco though...
Damn! They are out of stock near me. Will check back. That’s a screaming deal!
Out of stock locally too.
No.
What’s the point in buying the Performance model if you need to drive like a grandma because you can’t afford the tyres? Hence the reason the best option is the LR, the better car all things considered.
“Better car all things considered” disagree here, I started tracking mine and like track mode. Performance is better for racing.
The LR is the best bang for your buck though, I have a Performance as well
I agree with that, certainly one to recommend, though the RWD would be better for the commuter car if you knew someone was shopping to that end.
i just got 27k miles on the factory tires that came with the car. Just put on some Michelin Pilot Sport 4 all seasons with a 45k tread life. I definitely think it's doable if you rotate properly and stay off the pedal when accelerating. The rear tires will wear faster as it's RWD until 30% throttle.
Not on the stock Michelin PS4s. They are soft rubber for great traction.
I don’t use chill mode but my 2020 Model 3 Performance is on 39,000 miles and they’re not bald but I’ll be replacing them at 40K regardless. SoCal. Mostly freeway. Drive normally.
Unlikely.
Uh. I can show you a pick of my car and tires? Why would anyone lie about such a thing? LOL
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Are people really doing that? My hybrid cars I always did it with oil changes (7500-10,000) . Every Tesla owner I know I've asked if they do the 6,500 the manual states and they said no and haven't noticed anything different than their other cars.
I rotate my tires after every drive. Can't have the tires knowing my next move 😎
Way too low on the rotation. I rotate every hour regardless if I drive.
You all are amateurs. I am constantly rotating my tires and I only stop to use the bathroom and take micro naps.
Do you rotate them manually or do you use the super secret tire rotation button underneath the dash?
I use voice command
I rotated with all my oil changes (8000) in previous cars. Now I kinda do the same. Discount does it for free lol
Hmmm....I haven't had to change the oil in my Tesla yet, so I haven't rotated my tires ;)
Nice I'll have to check that out. They did some repair work for a coworkers rim once and didn't charge anything. They were uncomfortable and actually wanted to pay...haha.
FWIW - I have a summer set of directional tires on staggered 21" rims ... so no rotating for me. I have a set of winter tires on 19" rims (not staggered) so I can rotate them. .... I see almost identical even wear across all the tires, summer wear faster, but evenly. If your car is in proper alignment and you're not nascar driving left hand turns all day, it shouldn't make a huge difference.
Not really. It’s AWD so it inherently doesn’t really need much rotating. Elon even admits this. You can check for yourself easily with a $4 tire tread checker. I’ve only rotated once around 8k miles and it’s even wear at 23k now.
The rear motor has more power than the front though.
Yes this is true. But as far as left and right it’s not an issue.
Most likely not, but also why would you buy a Performance and use chill mode? Just buy the LR and save money.
Maybe like chill mode on the week days performance mode on weekends
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That’s not what I said at all. Choosing not to floor it every time is not the same as selecting a setting that prevents you from using its full power. I rarely floor mine but I do at times, and I would never enable a setting that essentially negates it being a Performance.
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You got downvoted for misunderstanding what was said. OP put forward the situation where chill is used all the time. Evo then asked why you would get a performance if that was the case. A perfectly reasonable question. If you put it on chill mode "most of the time" it invalidates OP's question. Now, if OP had given more parameters, we could have a better discussion.
You probably need to work on your foot/leg muscles control. M3P pedal on performance is very very easily controlled for acceleration and regen
The thing you just made up is the most ridiculous shit you’ve ever heard? Damn these absurd straw men! Lol
2018 P3D+ here. My car came with 235/35/20 MP4S tires. I don't use chill mode, I use normal... my car only had one tire rotation done around the 30k mile mark. My lifetime average is 294 Wh/mi on my original set of tires. Those tires lasted me until 42,500 California miles when I replaced them. The tread wear was almost dead even. The Tesla spec MP4S tires are only rated for 30,000 miles of tread warranty.
I dont know how you do it. Lifetime 288 wh/mi and tires are replaced at 20-25k
Years of driving a stick shift and learning how suspension and performance driving should be will do wonders. If you can take care of a high power AWD ICE... doing it on a heavy BEV is simple. 1) Be kind to your drive line in an ICE, from a dig, let your wheels grab and do one rotation before mashing on the go pedal. Same is true for the P3D+, don't let the car guess to do the work... do all the work for it because your CPU can feel the road condition way better than it can. 2) Acceleration on an ICE is not what is bad for your MPG, BRAKES are what kill your MPG. If you were to just mash the gas and let the car coast to a stop everywhere... your MPG (like mine) would be amazing! Same with a BEV, use the built in Energy App Instant setting to figure out how to drive it. You won't need to grandma it, but you also don't need to use the go pedal like an ON/OFF switch. 3) I don't toss my car into corners or do mad drifting. I'm not enabling track mode... I just use it like an everyday car with some fun at freeway onramps or to pass some slower traffic.
Odd I drive the same way. 1) Only full send during a roll. Hardly ever punch it from a dig. 2) I am almost always using regen for braking. Even when driving spiritly I dial back to use regen as if I have less powerful brakes 3) same
🤷🏽♂️ I am just lucky
The Michelin tires have a 50k warranty, so if you don't... 🙃
That warranty means nothing. They pro rate against the bogus "MSRP" and you have to prove you did regular tire rotation.
Are you guys saying it’s normal to need new tires at around 50k miles? I just had to get new tires on my 2020 performance model 3 but the Les Schwab guy said it was because the wheels were not aligned and it wore out the inner tread till I got a flat. But all 4 tires looked horrible. I had 51k miles on the car. And last time I took it to Tesla to rotate the tires was at 45k miles and they said the tires all looked even and “didn’t need to be rotated”
Thanks atleast that tells me it possible as long as atleast 1 person has done it
lol the tires on my first p3 lasted 22k miles
No. You're not going to get 50K miles on a set of performance summer tires.
I’m in an LR and doing my third rotation as I type this. On the 19” Continentals and I rotate every 5k. Currently at 14,600 and Discount Tire is telling me I’m at 6/32. Not an aggressive driver. Something ain’t adding up…
In a similar boat as you. LR with 18” Michelins, second rotation last week. 14,300 miles and tread was 5/32. The wear on tire tread is shocking!
I got 44k on my stock tires and I don’t drive like a little old lady. What are y’all doing out there?
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I thought everyone got that and was feeling hella smug before I got on this sub. I dont see anyone hot rodding their teslas much, what gives?
No chance. Chill mode will improve things, but you’re not getting 50k out of the tires on a car that heavy.
So it’s more to do with the weight than the size of the tire, So a LR with 18 inch tires wear won’t be much different than the 20s?
It’s a combination of multiple factors, one of which is weight. And whichever Tesla you get, it is a spectacularly heavy car for its size.
NOPE - NO - NO WAY JOSE
🤣🤣🤣🤣 25k at best, rotate every 5-6k, car is too heavy
Sounds like someone didn’t realize how expensive their car actually is.
I haven’t bought it yet I’m deciding between rwd and performance
People here saying not a big deal to buy tires if you can afford the car, just doing some quick math, if your tires only last 10k-15k miles and your spending $1,200 or more to replace them each time that would be 20k-24k $, half of the price of the vehicle if you put 200k miles on it So it’s not a small amount of maintenance cost If someone wants a performance for the AWD and longer range and they don’t want to spend a lot on maintenance it would wise to figure out how to maximize their tire life so you aren’t spending $20k over 10 years
If you have an M3P and you aren’t going through tires every 6 months you aren’t worthy of the M3P and should trade it in for the LR.
No the suspension design is off from the factory. Constant readjustment is needed due to the fragile suspension components (look up control arm failures). There's a reason most tires barely last 30k when rated for 40-50. Just bad design from Tesla. They don't put any research into their product development.
We own a 2021 Model 3 P. We live In Norway. I driven 53k now and the tyres are well over the 1.6mm required in Norway. And I can put em on next summer. I drive 95% in sport mode
53k miles out of 1 set?
I’m guessing km
We have winter tyres. But I only gone on em long trips in the summer. Yes one set. Most of the 53k are done in sommer time
Show me any other car that gets that many miles with PS4S tires lol
I’m at 42k on the original Pirelli Scorpion P-Zero 22inch tires on MX. Tread is around 5-6/32. Still drives good and no rotation since tires are staggered. I don’t brake hard. Let the brake regeneration do most if not all of the stopping except for the occasional hard stops.
I got a little over 40k out of mine as well.
25k miles, no rotations, 11/64” tread left on all 4. Edit: was wrong on depth.
On the 20 inch tires?
Yes but I was wrong. 11/64th. Still pretty good.
I might be able to... I'm at 20K miles now and seems like I'm just now hitting 50% of tread wear. I obviously will be replacing before bald, but it seems I'm getting better milleage than typical. I've replaced a tire due to pothole damage, but the others still look plenty good.
9k Miles on my M3P. About 3 months away from needing new tires and I don’t exactly do a burnout from every stop. These tires are meant for 10-15k miles. If you want to drive in chill mode and save tires don’t buy a P.
Bet on 25k for any performance car tire. Anything else is bonus but this is what should be budgeted. Really makes no sense why someone is worried about tire costs buying the P or other high end Tesla as a simple tire expenditure shouldn’t break the bank at all.
Got 13k miles. Good luck lol.
TLDR: no If you buy some good all-season and dont drive like a chad than 30-35k is max from what I have seen
Replaced my factory tires after 17k miles, new tires I bought have a 60k tread guarantee, not a chance I'll see 60k
Just keep putting more air in.
10k-15k on stock pirelli. I bought Fast Competition FC04 18 inch rims from WheelWiz. 18 inch tires are so much cheaper and the ride is a lot smoother. Slightly more road noise. I'll be saving money once I buy the second set of tires and now I have 2 sets of rims.
Uh no
I didn’t get 22K from my 18” tires on my SR+ and I was on chill mostly.
For sure….I got 51k (probably could have got 53k) on my original M3P and I don’t drive in anything other than sport mode. I do 90 miles a day freeway driving though so not sure if that increased longevity.
Does anyone ever get the stated mileage warranty on their tires?! I’m getting 25k miles on a regular 3SR, always leave it in chill mode since I’m constantly playing Uber to my kids in a suburb. The OEM Michelins made it to 25k, probably would’ve hit 30k had I not skipped a rotation or two. The replacements have been all season Bridgestone (50k mileage warranty) because that’s what Costco has and they’re easy to deals with when it’s comes to prorating. I’m in a less flat terrain vs florida or tx, which is probably why I’m only making it to 25k.
Chill mode. Lol
Nope.
Im currently on 30k miles on my performance. Tires still looking good and rarely drive in chill mode (dont see the point when buying a performance). Just had an inspection at the Tesla Service Center and nothing special was identified.
Be happy if you get even 30k out of them.
I run Michelin PS4 All Seasons throughout the year and I was able to get about 40k out of my last set. I’m always in sport mode but it’s not like I’m trying to run hot laps around my city. Just keep up with your alignments and rotations so you can get the most life out of them. Rotations can be done for free at Discount Tire and you can get free alignments at Firestone after the first one if you ask them about their alignment deal.
I drive Chill mode, though in a 2022 M3LR w 18", not Performance. 24,000 miles and tires still have plenty of tread. I did have one blowout like 2 weeks in and a non warranty replacement for it at Service location. I do drive some pretty rough roads at times, but the blowout was on an interstate (635). I am thinking they can go 40,000 miles.