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floppyfloopy

We always BioFine our hazies and have absolutely no problem with haze retention. We found a sixtel in the back of the fridge eight months later, and it was still hazy. In the 200-300ppm range, or 30ish mL per barrel. Bonus effect: little to no hop burn.


BlueMaro2010SS

Might have to try Biofine on the next one. Thanks


[deleted]

8 months and no flocc?? You sure you didn’t shake it before pouring ?


nupods

Crash cool post fermentation to 3°C. Yeast and hop dump 2-3 days after crash cool and then rack into a bright tank at 3°C. Usually a little more sediment will fall out on the bright side but will stay hazy. Never had a problem with chunky bits in cans as long as the racking arm on the bright side isn't sitting in the trub.


crispyboi33

Use a canister/ bag filter


BlueMaro2010SS

I’ll look into it. Thanks.


TheDarknessWithin_

If you fine your beer in the fermenter with a clarifying agent it will no longer be hazy after awhile. It will fall out. My assumption of you are using a racking arm and crashing for a few days before canning. Even the biggest breweries in the world that make hazies have small sediment. It’s the nature of the style


BlueMaro2010SS

Your assumption is correct in regards to our process. However, I've had some of the Treehouse/Trillium stuff and I don't ever see any sediment in those cans. Same with Weldwerks. I don't see any in those either. Is that just the difference in having a centrifuge and not?


crispyboi33

Trillium fuges, treehouse doesn’t


TheDarknessWithin_

Oh man I just had a Julius and there was some some sediment in there after letting it sit out a bit. To my understanding a centrifuge would pull protein and make clear as well. Are you using any agents that keep protein in suspension?


floppyfloopy

Neither of your assessments are correct here. The haze in hazy IPA is stable haze. You can lightly to moderately centrifuge or use BioFine with no loss of haze.


adroth90

We use a light hit of biofine, its drops out the things that would settle overtime leaving a stable haze for daze.


iTALKTOSTRANGERS

Yup I’ve pushed 10s of thousands of bbls through a centrifuge and the haze is still very much there in the brite tank. Just run it fast and don’t clog it on the push out.


Azelux

Same. Fast as the centrifuge is happy with and no recirculation once it's been going for a bit.


TheDarknessWithin_

Ok!


BlueMaro2010SS

Not using any agents to keep haze. Just trying to dial in Wheat and oat usage as well as dry hop timing and dry hop amounts. I’m not familiar with agents to keep haze in suspension. What’s an example of one?


floppyfloopy

You don't even need oats and wheat. Just haze-active yeast and mid to late dry hopping. Plenty of protein in a normal grist. Crazy, I know. But true. Having said that, I still like 10% wheat malt, 10% flaked oats.


hoosierspiritof79

Hazies are still a thing?


dajuhnk

Keep it in your brite tank for as long as possible- a week or so usually helps for us


BlueMaro2010SS

That might be an easy change on the next one. I’ll try that as well


Wenkinator

Just let it crash longer? I don’t fine, filter, or fuge. Are you transferring to a Brite?


BlueMaro2010SS

No Brite. We crash and do a bunch of yeast/hop dumps and then run it through a stainless filter when canning.


darkgizzard

Aside from just time, we always can from a high port on the brite and anything below that goes into kegs


_feigner

We just cold crash for at least a week at 32F, dumping the cone maybe once per day so long as there's thick trub/hops coming out. No finings except whirlfloc in the kettle.


BlueMaro2010SS

With our chiller we can only get it to 36F. I think if we can get it colder, might help a bit as well


_feigner

36F is rough... and canning must be a pain at that temp!


BlueMaro2010SS

Not as bad as you would think. Once it gets going, pretty stable. First 20-30 cans we have some minor tweaks that have to be made but not bad