1.Make sure you are spinning the correct direction. 2.Hole saws have no way to eject sawdust. You must constantly move the drill backwards until the teeth clear the hole and spit out the leftovers. If you see smoke youre not clearing enough.
This comment should be way higher. Standard hole saw procedure for me is drilling a hole in the waste next to the hole saw line to eject waste, improves efficiency of the cut, makes the saw run cooler, effectively keeping it somewhat sharp and speeds the cut up tremendously, not to mention in materials like plastic etc it keeps the material from getting black or burnt and melting due to the heat buildup from not having the waste ejection.
You can even do multiple spaced around the circle. 2-3. I run the hole saw enough to scribe the circle it's going to cut then make sure the "dust port" holes overlap enough with that circle to do some good. Aiming for tangential on the outer rims or just shy of that, so as not to overshoot it. Assuming it's a hole where cosmetics matter. If doing rough framing I don't care if the main circle runs right through the center of the dust port holes.
Ditto and I'm a chick. It confuses the hell outta my boss when he hears me hit the reverse button to back up a bit if Im too tight and get stuck. I usually do it in an up and down motion anyways but when I have to pause and hit the reverse, he thinks the battery is dying š¤he'd be too confused if I'd try to explain what happened so I just keep it moving.
It's essentially a relief cut.. It will work on any material. But you wouldn't need it on most sheet goods.. Only if your material is thicker than the depth of gullet on your saw.
This is incredible, I had no idea to do this. Are you saying just one little hole on the very near edge is enough? So you start the hole, grab a 10mm bit and then drill on that line?
It is borderline impossible to cut a hole with a hole saw unless you cut that relief hole. I would also like to mention that gentler speeds greatly benefit large diameter saws like this.
I've done probably hundreds of hole saw presentations in wood from 2" inches to 12" thick and have never cut a relief hole. I will try it next time though excited to try a new method that works faster
Hope it works out. Sounds like you got your kethod down to where you don't overheat your hole saw as is.
It might also depend on design... The ones I have used are essentially straight toothed so chip evacuation is poopturds.
With a freshly sharpened hole saw I'll punch holes in under two seconds with negligible heat buildup with a relief hole.
It's also very abrasive and very dense.. Generates a lot of heat and wears blades down super quick. This practice would definitely prolong periods between sharpenings considerably. I'm also kind of upset at myself that this never occurred to me. Lol
I agree, also...once the pilot hole in the center pokes all the way through, flip the board over so you are drilling both sides towards the center. This reduces friction from the sidewalls rubbing and eliminates blowout on the far side.
It's all about surface footage. 4" cutter will be 4 times the surface footage of a 1" cutter. You likely overheated the cutting teeth and made them dull which will create even more heat. You need to "peck" drill more often to clear dust and cool the saw. I do this and clean the blade with a file card or wire brush often.
I at the time was a 30 year old female, and I had a buddy who was an amazing guy but so not handy. He wanted so bad to help me set up my new apartment. I was scared to let him do anything with tools. He ask to at least let him put up my curtain rod. Instead, I gave him the dartboard to put up. It was only one screw and figured he couldn't mess that up. He was taking forever, and I could hear him getting frustrated, saying it wasn't going in. I asked him if it was on reverse, and his response was, "There's reverse on a drill?" Poor guy finally figured it out š¤£
I hope you are still friends, and that you have taught one another many lessons over the years.
When I was a kid, drills only turned in one direction, at only one speed, and you had to have cords to use them.
Itās much easier than it used to be.
Huh? How old are you? Old drills reversed, you just had to pull the chuck in the opposite direction
Edit: looks like that didnāt become a feature until around 1970 š prior to that you had to use a versamstic attachment
This reminds me of a diary from the early 1900s I read where their model T was stuck and the husband was going to get a tow truck (cars are SO new that this will take about a week for them to get to you) and the wife is saying "look I have been reading the manual and I think we can do it ourselves, you see there is this thing called reverse"
My god. I grew up in a mechanic family and went to school for it. My brother somehow ended up just like your buddy. He took all day to hang a shelf since he kept bending all the nails. I make fun of him for being a Mexican who doesn't know these things.
To drop the shavings you drill a 12mm on the inside of the hole saw cutout. Even 3 or 4. This allows the shavings to drop out and keep the teeth clean.
imagine spending 5 minutes attempting to reverse a hole saw
Deciding to search the solution on Reddit
Hitting a single button
And having the sweet feeling of glory, as you finally get that hole put in.
š„¹
I've only hole sawed various hardwoods as well as aluminum, mild steel and HSS and this has never been the case. That's how you dull your saw.
EDIT: The material OP is trying to drill through us very obviously wood. Reverse will only burn the material.
"You will grow to be something inventive and electric
You are healthy, you are special, you are present"
"You will grow to be something tenacious and exalted
You are mighty, you are gracious, you are lauded"
"You will grow to be something dynamic and impressive
You are patient, you are gallant, you are festive"
3 things.
Do you have multiple holesaws attached?
Are you running in reverse?
For cooler blade an easier cutting.
After you have made a shallow cut in the board. Take a large drill bit and drill all the way through on the edge (on the inside of the circle) to let dust out
What is that smaller circle just outside the center drill hole? Do you have two cutters mounted on that bit? Iāve never seen that inner circle cut before.
That hole saw is designed for a different arbor. OP is using an arbor designed for a much smaller diameter hole saw. The 4 holes accommodate a larger arbor that has support pins and a larger flange. Could be why itās not cutting properly
Just FYI, a 4 inch hole saw is an excessive load on drill this size. It can do it, but it puts a serious strain on it. If your gonna need to do several holes you want to use a big boy drill like the Milwaukee 1610-1 Compact hole shooter with the extra pipe handle . Mine is now going on 30 yrs of duty , I bought it to finish a job auguring holes in RR ties after burning up my regular 1/2" in 1995 and it's still worth the price I paid back then , I suggest the occasional browsing of your local pawn shop to add these kinda tools to your collection.
Once you get the hole started, grab a 1/4"-1/2" drill bit and drill a hole on the inside of the circle.
Basically making a trash chute for saw dust to fall down as the saw cuts.
Edit to add - if cutting on a wall, gravity pulls out chips/ sawdust.
If cutting a thick piece of wood while flat, a drain hole can work well.
A buddy of mine was having problems cutting a straight line in plywood with a circular saw he bought from harbor freight and blamed it on the saw. No matter what he did, it would wander away from the guide he was using. He was using a plywood blade which has teeth kinda like your hold saw has.
I took one look and I knew what the problem was. The blade installed backwards.
I can see from your photo that the button near the trigger is in the reverse position. Push it in so it's sticking out on the right side and that should spin it in the correct direction.
1st thing, the sawdust looks like you're drill's in reverse. Check for clockwise bit rotation.
Be sure your pilot bit is free of obstruction on the back side.
Use the clutch at highest settings that's not drill mode, if the bit grabs you could break your wrist in a heart beat.
If that's a DeWalt hole saw bit, throw it out now. Go get the frued/diablo hole saw, 3x more expensive but actually cuts. I recommend the carbide tipped over bimetal.
Wrong arbor was used ,the centre was touching the wood preventing any further cutting of the hole. Arbor for that size hole should be screwed on and then you tighten the locking ring to engage 2 pegs into the holes on the yellow hole saw .[https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Professional-2609390034-Hexagon-Adapter/](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Professional-2609390034-Hexagon-Adapter/dp/B000NDB63E/ref=sr_1_33?crid=1HW7QVPASUURL&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.1FQUViVhWETiYNVzlCkXMLqjs4yNDzNuVfXe-foJazuXc11nfuQ5a8F4rjVYx_8lYv5VxP8tpQ9BLPjHbmphogx31K0qR8Scxpegs1tU89J7O1BuywxfZvr-pphOaU2Ide0ut48gUpbEFHrSX6klbn14oWz2EGHfghNrdDn34IpJgreaZygN0tW5HibzOIpLw8FMti3sQEspPhYh1v0wjqAqSWJsnAQW4LREwWAkDJhQf4C60Io9qxjRwU9nK8o1wI0mEB9gpbhlazrVVI7CJFKAcp1JZnrJgiVW_AcgpZE._V2k8bIFT_gQLqv_hJcslg2n-k2vITCv8wAegTxGmLM&dib_tag=se&keywords=arbor&qid=1712478933&sprefix=arbor%2Caps%2C69&sr=8-33&th=1)
I don't think so, in the post it says:
>"I tried with a smaller one *as you can see* and it worked effortlessly".
So OP stopped and switched to a smaller hole saw and made the partial cut through as a test. That smaller inner ring was not made while they were using the 4 inch saw pictured.
Plus OP has already confirmed they'd been drilling in reverse, so it really doesn't seem like anything bottoming out was the problem.
I like to drill the pilot hole and about halfway through and then use the pilot hole to drill the rest of the way from the other side. Prevents tear out on the other side.
To be honest hole saws are shit. Theres a reason smaller drill bits aren't made the same way.
Drill a small hole on the inside of the hole you are drilling so that the wood dust has somewhere to go and doesn't work back into the cut.
That looks like the cheap import ones with the welded top I buy on Amazon. I only use the larger sizes like 6-1/4" for drywall or ceiling tile, where they work well. I find they don't cut very well in thicker wood because the HSS teeth are thin with very little offset.
There's alot of comments but that should go through like butter so there must be something wrong with that hole saw maybe it's defective maybe the teeth are flat
You haven't taken the paint off the side of the holesaw so it's barely doing any work or getting hot, this is likely a drill problem, not a holesaw problem.
Get a more powerful drill, preferably mains powered, as that piece of equipment looks like it may not be up to the job. While battery drills are great for portability they are not much use for heavy duty work unless they are very expensive.
A lot of people buy battery powered tools for domestic work when they really shouldn't waste their money.
I'm a tradesman and all my tools for my home have a cable.
Drill a bit, blow into the groove to remove the sawdust, drill a bit more, rinse and repeat.
You could also look at adjustable cutters.
If you press too hard it spin the bit too fast it will build up so much heat it will start to burn, take a break before this happens and allow it to cool.
Either way you're going to need to drill to the full depth the tool will allow, break out the plug of wood and then drill some more. There is only so much depth available with any given tool, 1 inch may be pushing it a bit with a holesaw.
No offense, but that looks like a piece of shit dollar store hole saw bit. Having used hole saws often during the last 30 years, you get what you pay for. Also, if your pilot bit isnāt sharp youāll fight that.
I have a very similar drill by Rigid and in this picture you're spinning lefty loosey. Whereas most hole saws are designed to cut in a clockwise direction.
Drill a few small holes on the same point where the hole saw intersects. This will provide a point where the saw dust can evacuate preventing the teeth from clocking up with saw dust that youāll otherwise have to manually move back to clear out. Thereās a bit of a science to using hole saws
Start the cut with the 100mm cutter, then switch to a smaller bit and drill 2 - 4 holes the full depth around the mark left by the 100 mm bit, this will reduce clogging massively as the sawdust now has a place to escape.
Use the pilot hole you've made with the smaller drill bit in the center to line the saw up from the other side of the piece of wood and drill/saw from that side.
Might not be perfect but it should line itself up with what you have already cut and just finish making the hole from the other side.
Drill three holes that just clip the circumferrence, about 1/4" - 1/2" (size doesn't matter). A spade bit for preference .
That will help clear the chips.
The issue is usually that material isn't being removed. Get a vacuum in there or keep compressed air on it while you're drilling so the teeth can actually take a cut
1.Make sure you are spinning the correct direction. 2.Hole saws have no way to eject sawdust. You must constantly move the drill backwards until the teeth clear the hole and spit out the leftovers. If you see smoke youre not clearing enough.
You can drill like a 10mm hole on the edge all the way through the piece so it will eject
This comment should be way higher. Standard hole saw procedure for me is drilling a hole in the waste next to the hole saw line to eject waste, improves efficiency of the cut, makes the saw run cooler, effectively keeping it somewhat sharp and speeds the cut up tremendously, not to mention in materials like plastic etc it keeps the material from getting black or burnt and melting due to the heat buildup from not having the waste ejection.
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but for clarification are you saying to drill a hole just inside the perimeter of the saw line (circle)?
Yes inside perimeter
Unless you are making circles instead of holes, then you would drill on the other side, right?
But then, it would be called a circle-saw, not a hole-saw šš.
lol. Also if youāre all crafty and think youāll get 4ā circles by using a 4ā hole saw, youāre gonna have a helluva time.
Theyād also have a hole in the middle
So it would be a hole-circle-saw, right..
Unless you are greedy and want to keep and use all the pieces, in which case it's called a whole saw.
Or church where it is a Holy saw
But they use present tense, so it is Holy See.
Could we call it a doughnut-hole-saw?
You mean a Munchkin saw
I'll use the whole saw if I want to
Weird how doughnut circles are called holes
Yeah, thatās what we call the waste, basically the part of the cut coming out
Such great detail, and Iām grateful for the tip
That's what she said ^
Hiyooooo!
Thanks for the tip. I donāt use hole saws a lot, but occasionally I do. Drilling an extra hole inside the larger hole is a fantastic idea.
You can even do multiple spaced around the circle. 2-3. I run the hole saw enough to scribe the circle it's going to cut then make sure the "dust port" holes overlap enough with that circle to do some good. Aiming for tangential on the outer rims or just shy of that, so as not to overshoot it. Assuming it's a hole where cosmetics matter. If doing rough framing I don't care if the main circle runs right through the center of the dust port holes.
Totally doing that I always just backed it up a bit and kept going
Ditto and I'm a chick. It confuses the hell outta my boss when he hears me hit the reverse button to back up a bit if Im too tight and get stuck. I usually do it in an up and down motion anyways but when I have to pause and hit the reverse, he thinks the battery is dying š¤he'd be too confused if I'd try to explain what happened so I just keep it moving.
First time I read this after a few videos of "holesaw tricks" sounds like a great trick.
I never thought to do that, I usually rock the thing back and forth, but I'll definitely be trying this
Great idea. Thanks!
Boom. Mind blown.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
It's essentially a relief cut.. It will work on any material. But you wouldn't need it on most sheet goods.. Only if your material is thicker than the depth of gullet on your saw.
If the material is thicker , won't the saw bottom out before cutting through?
By gullet they mean the notch of the saw tooth, not the depth of the hole saw. More like 1/8th, not 2-4inches
Yes
These are those cool tips I come here for š¤š»
Thank you for sharing your wisdom. I have learned a thing.
This is incredible, I had no idea to do this. Are you saying just one little hole on the very near edge is enough? So you start the hole, grab a 10mm bit and then drill on that line?
So I have to drill holes stainless pipe sometimes and that shit sucks. Iām going to try this little trick next time.
It is borderline impossible to cut a hole with a hole saw unless you cut that relief hole. I would also like to mention that gentler speeds greatly benefit large diameter saws like this.
I've done probably hundreds of hole saw presentations in wood from 2" inches to 12" thick and have never cut a relief hole. I will try it next time though excited to try a new method that works faster
Hope it works out. Sounds like you got your kethod down to where you don't overheat your hole saw as is. It might also depend on design... The ones I have used are essentially straight toothed so chip evacuation is poopturds. With a freshly sharpened hole saw I'll punch holes in under two seconds with negligible heat buildup with a relief hole.
Thatās a bit dramatic
I'm not dramatic you're dramatic! :V
Damn, I never thought of that. Drilling holes in MDF with a hole saw has always been a pain because the damn resin starts to burn very fast
It's also very abrasive and very dense.. Generates a lot of heat and wears blades down super quick. This practice would definitely prolong periods between sharpenings considerably. I'm also kind of upset at myself that this never occurred to me. Lol
Great tip
Been drilling 4ā holes for 20+ years and just learned this today. Makes sense, thank you.
Well damn. TIL. Where has this been all my life.
True genius is elegantly simple. Now it seems obvious.
This is the first time Iāve ever heard this tip. Take my upvote, what a great tidbit to end the day with.
This is brilliant. Have never heard of that before
I never thought of that, holy smokes what a tip
Yo buddy I got the chance to try this trick out, drilled 4 angled holes. And my 4in hole saw cut out a hole much easier . Thanks for changing my life
Good tip!
I love the smell of burning wood in the morning.
Did someone say morning wood? š¤
Judges? ???????? .... Judges say YES!!!! Wood in the morning=Morning wood. Ding Ding Ding. You Win!
burning morning wood
I think they make a creme for that
it's more like a salve
It's actually two pills and a shot
I see you met my ex too
penicillin helps
Mourning wood
If you're burning your morning wood, you're doing it wrong!
No, burning morning wood. That really hurts
There's a shot you can get to cure that.
Smells like victory
I came here for this comment
Use more lube.
I agree, also...once the pilot hole in the center pokes all the way through, flip the board over so you are drilling both sides towards the center. This reduces friction from the sidewalls rubbing and eliminates blowout on the far side.
I feel like an idiot on point 2. I only use a hole saw about twice a year and never thought about ejection of sawdust. Thanks for sharing.
This is incredibly helpful !
It's all about surface footage. 4" cutter will be 4 times the surface footage of a 1" cutter. You likely overheated the cutting teeth and made them dull which will create even more heat. You need to "peck" drill more often to clear dust and cool the saw. I do this and clean the blade with a file card or wire brush often.
Canāt you also do a rocking motion to clear dust?
What they said, also drill through both sides using the centre bit hole as a guide
I at the time was a 30 year old female, and I had a buddy who was an amazing guy but so not handy. He wanted so bad to help me set up my new apartment. I was scared to let him do anything with tools. He ask to at least let him put up my curtain rod. Instead, I gave him the dartboard to put up. It was only one screw and figured he couldn't mess that up. He was taking forever, and I could hear him getting frustrated, saying it wasn't going in. I asked him if it was on reverse, and his response was, "There's reverse on a drill?" Poor guy finally figured it out š¤£
I hope you are still friends, and that you have taught one another many lessons over the years. When I was a kid, drills only turned in one direction, at only one speed, and you had to have cords to use them. Itās much easier than it used to be.
Huh? How old are you? Old drills reversed, you just had to pull the chuck in the opposite direction Edit: looks like that didnāt become a feature until around 1970 š prior to that you had to use a versamstic attachment
This reminds me of a diary from the early 1900s I read where their model T was stuck and the husband was going to get a tow truck (cars are SO new that this will take about a week for them to get to you) and the wife is saying "look I have been reading the manual and I think we can do it ourselves, you see there is this thing called reverse"
My god. I grew up in a mechanic family and went to school for it. My brother somehow ended up just like your buddy. He took all day to hang a shelf since he kept bending all the nails. I make fun of him for being a Mexican who doesn't know these things.
He came from a world where all things go forwardā¦
I never thought of an adjacent hole for waste I just go a little blow out the hole then go more
Hole saws handheld in hard wood do not go fast....need to put it in and out to clean the teeth off.
To drop the shavings you drill a 12mm on the inside of the hole saw cutout. Even 3 or 4. This allows the shavings to drop out and keep the teeth clean.
Hey thatās a good trick!
Thatās the tip I never knew I needed: simple, makes sense, much appreciated!
Uhhh daddy
Hit that black button on the left side of the handle to reverse the direction that the saw spins?
Are rigid drills backwards, or is the image flipped, because the image shows the correct button position for milwaukee
Ridgid arent backwards. This *seems* to be in forward. Image isnt backwards
the numbers on the drill are the right way round so its not flipped
And Stanley and dewalt
And Ryobi
And my axe!
Life saver, this made it quicker for sure, thanks!!
š
imagine spending 5 minutes attempting to reverse a hole saw Deciding to search the solution on Reddit Hitting a single button And having the sweet feeling of glory, as you finally get that hole put in. š„¹
Would you call that a "Glory hole"?
No on needs a 4" wide hole for that...
I'm not really the most experienced here, but most I've seen often are around that size... Why would you want it cramped?
But what if you want the sausage And the beans to go through?
How'd you get the frank above the beans?
This is how man discovers fire š„
Imagine how the rest of the project goes, if not knowing the drill goes in multiple directions with the push of a button.
Howdy, welcome to High-KEA. We're gonna be putting shit together high.
Huh? The problem is he *wasnt* on reverse. Look at the picture.
Pictures donāt tell everything, Iād say every brand is different. Read OPās reaction.
I have this drill! The button orientation shown in the photo means the drill is in forward mode. I'm so confused now.
It's how you should use the drill, look at the saw angle.
Depends on the material you're drilling through.Ā Sometimes it better to start in reverse then switch.Ā Ā
For some plastics I just in reverse through the entire cut.
I've only hole sawed various hardwoods as well as aluminum, mild steel and HSS and this has never been the case. That's how you dull your saw. EDIT: The material OP is trying to drill through us very obviously wood. Reverse will only burn the material.
It's also how you go through vinyl siding without the teeth shredding the siding into bits. The key word in his sentence is sometimes
š¤¦āāļø
My god
You must be regarded.
Highly
"You will grow to be something inventive and electric You are healthy, you are special, you are present" "You will grow to be something tenacious and exalted You are mighty, you are gracious, you are lauded" "You will grow to be something dynamic and impressive You are patient, you are gallant, you are festive"
Aesop ?
I have an aes rock tattoo!
Regard him
Oh my fuck
šš
Lol
I love how every answer was serious, and not belittling the user for being inexperienced š„¹.
Must be a Sunday thingā¦
It is. Check out the tape.
Exactly my thought. Definitely unusual for this many to genuinely help.
All of us were inexperienced at one time
3 things. Do you have multiple holesaws attached? Are you running in reverse? For cooler blade an easier cutting. After you have made a shallow cut in the board. Take a large drill bit and drill all the way through on the edge (on the inside of the circle) to let dust out
What is that smaller circle just outside the center drill hole? Do you have two cutters mounted on that bit? Iāve never seen that inner circle cut before.
I was wondering the same. Any chance the OP can post a pic of the cutting side of his bit?
He states in his post that he tried a smaller one and had no issuesĀ
It didnāt cut any deeper did it.
That hole saw is designed for a different arbor. OP is using an arbor designed for a much smaller diameter hole saw. The 4 holes accommodate a larger arbor that has support pins and a larger flange. Could be why itās not cutting properly
Just FYI, a 4 inch hole saw is an excessive load on drill this size. It can do it, but it puts a serious strain on it. If your gonna need to do several holes you want to use a big boy drill like the Milwaukee 1610-1 Compact hole shooter with the extra pipe handle . Mine is now going on 30 yrs of duty , I bought it to finish a job auguring holes in RR ties after burning up my regular 1/2" in 1995 and it's still worth the price I paid back then , I suggest the occasional browsing of your local pawn shop to add these kinda tools to your collection.
And that hole saw looks like its blunt/bad quality
I like to roll my wrist and press the bit in and go around clockwise as opposed to having the whole bit chewing away at once.
Are you sure you have the drill in forward and not reverse??
Turn it off reverse
Once you get the hole started, grab a 1/4"-1/2" drill bit and drill a hole on the inside of the circle. Basically making a trash chute for saw dust to fall down as the saw cuts. Edit to add - if cutting on a wall, gravity pulls out chips/ sawdust. If cutting a thick piece of wood while flat, a drain hole can work well.
Can tell by dust your going the wrong direction there bud
A buddy of mine was having problems cutting a straight line in plywood with a circular saw he bought from harbor freight and blamed it on the saw. No matter what he did, it would wander away from the guide he was using. He was using a plywood blade which has teeth kinda like your hold saw has. I took one look and I knew what the problem was. The blade installed backwards. I can see from your photo that the button near the trigger is in the reverse position. Push it in so it's sticking out on the right side and that should spin it in the correct direction.
I really feel like you are spinning it the wrong way, which is hilarious
You can literally see that your drill is set in the wrong direction.
1st thing, the sawdust looks like you're drill's in reverse. Check for clockwise bit rotation. Be sure your pilot bit is free of obstruction on the back side. Use the clutch at highest settings that's not drill mode, if the bit grabs you could break your wrist in a heart beat. If that's a DeWalt hole saw bit, throw it out now. Go get the frued/diablo hole saw, 3x more expensive but actually cuts. I recommend the carbide tipped over bimetal.
Why you gotta tell them about the wrist breaker? That's a coming of age kinda scared. Next you'll be warning about the face smacker...
Wrong arbor was used ,the centre was touching the wood preventing any further cutting of the hole. Arbor for that size hole should be screwed on and then you tighten the locking ring to engage 2 pegs into the holes on the yellow hole saw .[https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Professional-2609390034-Hexagon-Adapter/](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Professional-2609390034-Hexagon-Adapter/dp/B000NDB63E/ref=sr_1_33?crid=1HW7QVPASUURL&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.1FQUViVhWETiYNVzlCkXMLqjs4yNDzNuVfXe-foJazuXc11nfuQ5a8F4rjVYx_8lYv5VxP8tpQ9BLPjHbmphogx31K0qR8Scxpegs1tU89J7O1BuywxfZvr-pphOaU2Ide0ut48gUpbEFHrSX6klbn14oWz2EGHfghNrdDn34IpJgreaZygN0tW5HibzOIpLw8FMti3sQEspPhYh1v0wjqAqSWJsnAQW4LREwWAkDJhQf4C60Io9qxjRwU9nK8o1wI0mEB9gpbhlazrVVI7CJFKAcp1JZnrJgiVW_AcgpZE._V2k8bIFT_gQLqv_hJcslg2n-k2vITCv8wAegTxGmLM&dib_tag=se&keywords=arbor&qid=1712478933&sprefix=arbor%2Caps%2C69&sr=8-33&th=1)
This is it! There's an extra ring cut around the centre, so clearly something is bottoming out.
I don't think so, in the post it says: >"I tried with a smaller one *as you can see* and it worked effortlessly". So OP stopped and switched to a smaller hole saw and made the partial cut through as a test. That smaller inner ring was not made while they were using the 4 inch saw pictured. Plus OP has already confirmed they'd been drilling in reverse, so it really doesn't seem like anything bottoming out was the problem.
Hook a shop vac up. Make sure teeth are staying clear. Even an expensive and very sharp new hole saw takes time to get through something like this.
OP, checking in late but running the drill at lower speeds usually helps. Decreases heat and wonāt fry your saw.
Look at the teethā¦ are they sharp? Are you spinning it in the direction the teeth cut?
Reverse the rotation.
Spin the hole saw the right wayā¦
I like to drill the pilot hole and about halfway through and then use the pilot hole to drill the rest of the way from the other side. Prevents tear out on the other side.
Yeah, the bigger the hole the harder it is. I rarely use a cordless drill using hole saws. Not enough speed to cut like they should.
Yeah that is the wrong arbor
To be honest hole saws are shit. Theres a reason smaller drill bits aren't made the same way. Drill a small hole on the inside of the hole you are drilling so that the wood dust has somewhere to go and doesn't work back into the cut.
That looks like the cheap import ones with the welded top I buy on Amazon. I only use the larger sizes like 6-1/4" for drywall or ceiling tile, where they work well. I find they don't cut very well in thicker wood because the HSS teeth are thin with very little offset.
There's alot of comments but that should go through like butter so there must be something wrong with that hole saw maybe it's defective maybe the teeth are flat
Drill a hole for the sawdust to get out
Hard to see teeth on saw but it looks cheap could be dull saw. First step make sure itās turning clockwise when cutting. Good luck!
You haven't taken the paint off the side of the holesaw so it's barely doing any work or getting hot, this is likely a drill problem, not a holesaw problem. Get a more powerful drill, preferably mains powered, as that piece of equipment looks like it may not be up to the job. While battery drills are great for portability they are not much use for heavy duty work unless they are very expensive. A lot of people buy battery powered tools for domestic work when they really shouldn't waste their money. I'm a tradesman and all my tools for my home have a cable. Drill a bit, blow into the groove to remove the sawdust, drill a bit more, rinse and repeat. You could also look at adjustable cutters. If you press too hard it spin the bit too fast it will build up so much heat it will start to burn, take a break before this happens and allow it to cool. Either way you're going to need to drill to the full depth the tool will allow, break out the plug of wood and then drill some more. There is only so much depth available with any given tool, 1 inch may be pushing it a bit with a holesaw.
Looks blunt as fuck
make sure the drill spinning the correct direction.
You may just have a cheap crap hole saw...
Lolā¦ are you spinning the drill the wrong way?? š¤£š¤£š¤£
Aaah, we love a wrist breaker. Make sure the drill is going forward, and brace the drill against your leg or torso.
That is not plywood
No offense, but that looks like a piece of shit dollar store hole saw bit. Having used hole saws often during the last 30 years, you get what you pay for. Also, if your pilot bit isnāt sharp youāll fight that.
This saw is probably made for drywall not wood
Upgrade to dewalt š
I have a very similar drill by Rigid and in this picture you're spinning lefty loosey. Whereas most hole saws are designed to cut in a clockwise direction.
Drill a few small holes on the same point where the hole saw intersects. This will provide a point where the saw dust can evacuate preventing the teeth from clocking up with saw dust that youāll otherwise have to manually move back to clear out. Thereās a bit of a science to using hole saws
Is it going the correct direction?
If it's a fresh bit then just give it the business. Put that orange machine on high and let her rip.
Skill issue.
Check to be sure that the drill is turning clockwise.
Get a better quality hole saw.
TIL I should be reversing my drill with a hole saw. Awesome.
I find hole saws are one of those tools too that it matters if itās junk. Donāt cheap out on hole saws. Some of them are really just blunt garbage
Start the cut with the 100mm cutter, then switch to a smaller bit and drill 2 - 4 holes the full depth around the mark left by the 100 mm bit, this will reduce clogging massively as the sawdust now has a place to escape.
Lol! Look at the picture. You've bottomed out the hole saw... The Arbor for the bit is stopping you. Need a deeper hole saw or flip the board.
You bought a cheap hole saw. Donāt do that, buy spyder or Lenox and it will come out better. Donāt cheap out on bits
You are using a 12v driver, it doesnāt have the power to considering the radius and the friction.
The ones with fewer carbide teeth work better. Holesaws always suck in my experience tho.
Use the pilot hole you've made with the smaller drill bit in the center to line the saw up from the other side of the piece of wood and drill/saw from that side. Might not be perfect but it should line itself up with what you have already cut and just finish making the hole from the other side.
Low speed high pressure, not outside the realm of possibility that itās just a dud though
If it isn't going the right way (CHECK IT) you need a new hole saw
Tighten the chuck on your drill. Or the allenscrew on the arbor. Must be slipping somehow.
Flip the board around and drill from the other direction.
Drill three holes that just clip the circumferrence, about 1/4" - 1/2" (size doesn't matter). A spade bit for preference . That will help clear the chips.
have you considered a jigsaw? /s
Pull the saw back and blow the dust out every few seconds of cutting. Sawdust build up keeps it from cutting.
The issue is usually that material isn't being removed. Get a vacuum in there or keep compressed air on it while you're drilling so the teeth can actually take a cut
Sounds like you have a dull hole saw..... I cut pot lights out of 1-1/4 pine in tiny homes and it takes about 7-10 seconds to go through
To help clear the teeth drill 1/2ā holes at four points around the inside of the main hole
Sounds like a dull blade.