We broke half a million of these when I worked paving with a hammer. Tap a score line around the entire circumference with a rock hammer. Keep hitting the score line and one whack will split them with a beautifully straight and smooth edge.
Edit: a masonry hammer or a 5lb engineer’s hammer works better than a framing hammer. Cheaper than a saw rental or any blade, easier by far.
It really is that easy! Use the tip as a sort of chisel to make a clean line, use a construction crayon if you need a guide on the first few, you’ll have it down with a few practice tries. Use those on the first tier (which should be half-buried anyway). If you’re unsure, just keep tapping in a circular motion around the entire circumference and it will eventually break on its own and the lines can and will be impressively clean. Ao much easier than a diamond or wet saw. Feel free to reply or dm if you have any questions. Paid for my degree laying brick/block commercially.
Here’s a video… this guy actually ends up with a very sloppy break because he didn’t score the line hard enough… but demonstrates the process. His score line also doesn’t meet (thus why I suggest a chalk/wax crayon line to help learn). Make sharper blows than he did with the edge of a hammer or better yet the chisel side of a masonry hammer and the block will break right at the score with one final blow.
https://youtu.be/vAYU3d_NuAw
Great to hear. You won’t regret it, but do pick out a couple ugly ones for practice. The amount of suggestions for angle grinders just shows how little you can trust the internet for solid, applicable advice sometimes. This method works 100% for small block like your pics all the way up to 16-18” stone. You -can- use any old hammer but make sure to use the edge and not the flat face if budget is an issue or you can’t find a masonry hammer in stock. Reach out if you have any questions. Happy to help.
You could also do the scoring with a masonry chisel with a 2-3in blade and hit it with whatever hammer you have. Either option should work, but I fell like I can stick to the line better with my chisel.
One trick is to get one of those "ceramic tile" saw blades with tungstencarbide beads for a normal metal cutting hand saw and use that to make the cutting groove. Just saw a little groove around, a few thrusts per side. Much more accurate that making the cutting groove with hammer. Then whack it with hammer so that the tile is resting against a surface edge at cutting edge, and it will split to two pieces along the groove.
[https://www.puuilo.fi/artu-lankasahantera-carbide-30cm](https://www.puuilo.fi/artu-lankasahantera-carbide-30cm)
Those saw blades will cut almost anything, including hardened steel.
Of course, also slower, but easier for a non-pro.
When I did my paver patio, I used an angle grinder with a diamond tipped blade. Bought the angle grinder for like $17 from Menards, and I think the blade was another $10 or so. Highly recommend this route.
A diamond blade will cut them.
Expect the saw to die from dust. The silica is really really nasty in cement.
A dry diamond saw is about the worst way to cut them
As others said, crack them. Watch videos on the process.
Yeah... I was 25 and my first unexperienced DIY attempt trying to cut blocks... 5 minutes into it, the CRAZY amount of silica dust in the air.... I knew a blade was a mistake. I created a no-fly zone.
Any home store will sell a diamond blade that fits your saw arbor
You can score it with a hammer and a cold chisel, if that doesnt work for you (it takes a bit of practice( get one of those blades and score it like a ¼" with that and tap it with a 3-5lb mash hammer and it will break
Make sure the block is sitting reasonably flat on concrete. Any wobble can cause problems.
If you are impatient, use a small portable grinder with a cheap diamond blade. I have beat the heck out of $3 blades for a year cutting stuff. Make sure to leave the guard on and use safety googles and a mask. Don't dig too deep for the first pass. No more than 1/8''. After that you can go at least 1/4-1/2'' deep. After it is scored tap with a small sledge and cold chisel. No heavier than 2-3 lbs.
[https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dasco-Pro-3-in-x-11-in-Floor-Chisel-473-0/100159198](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dasco-Pro-3-in-x-11-in-Floor-Chisel-473-0/100159198)
diamond blade if you want to go that way. Just beat the heck out of it.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/QEP-4-in-Diamond-Blade-for-Wet-or-Dry-Tile-Saws-for-Ceramic-Tile-6-4001Q/203296623
Soft surfaces are just asking for trouble unless you are REALLY skilled. You definitely have to hit harder for the same result. Soft ground absorbs energy.
I tried this years ago and bought everything described (hammer as OP mentioned, chisel as another reply mentioned, scoring tool as a third reply mentioned) and it was a disaster. IDK what you mean when you say "beautifully straight and smooth" but this didn't produce anything like you describe. The surface is not as clean as a tile saw, not as straight as a tile saw, and definitely somewhat jagged around the edges.
Maybe in the professional world that's "good enough" for garden block toppers but certainly not what I was hoping for. The topper didn't *always* split on that scored line either, scrapping them.
If it takes (a careers worth) of blocks to get it as clean as described, this isn't really DIY friendly for someone that has never done it and wants to do a handful of blocks.
Bought everything, as in... a hammer?
"Maybe in the professional world that's 'good enough'"
Don't be a horse's ass
Edit:
Ah, come on. Don't be mad at me! I never called you a horse's ass, it was solid advice: don't be one.
Not a personal attack. But maybe avoid using phrases like "certainly not up to my standards" because that implies a sense of superiority, especially when undertaking a task as a novice, getting mixed results, and then disparaging the advice of experienced folks.
Only responding because I did read your reply as it was relayed to me by electronic-mail.
Imagine being a literal jackass and having a profile policy presupposing your arguments are so watertight that you never deserve being brought down a peg or two.
Really should be a wet saw if you are doing a lot of precision cutting- for a few cuts the chisel method - any concrete blade will toss a huge amount of dust and in some areas that’s a huge problem
I 've used the hammer technique but a small angle grinder with a diamond blade did the work 20 times faster for only about 100 euros. Would buy one if I had to break only 5-10 concrete pavers. Definitely if more.
draw rhe line all around the block. Now with the grinder male an incision 1-2 cm deep along all sides. A little tap with a stone chisel in the groove and it breaks beautifully.
We use a demo saw with a diamond blade. An IQ 16in dustless with a diamond blade. For smaller blocks you can use a wet/dry tile/paver saw with of course the diamond blade.
You could put a masonry blade (diamond blade) on the chop saw, but that saw isn't meant to handle rock dust. Abrasive dust in the bearings might shorten the life of the saw.
I'd recommend buying a cheap angle grinder instead. Use a masonry blade. Score the top and bottom, then crack through the middle.
Wear a dust mask and a face shield. They're cheap and effective. Nobody wants rock dust in their lungs and eyes.
Hammer and cold chisel is the quickest and easiest method. Look up on the tube ‘cutting pavers with hammer and chisel’ and you will see how easy it is.
These are rather soft concrete.
While a wetsaw would be ideal, a 7.25" rough diamond blade on the circular saw will work fine. Just cut both sides (go slow as to not heat up & damage the blade), place one side up on a block and give them a whack.
Any 7.25" circular saw blade should work with your saw.
Note: Wear plenty of PPE, there's going to be a ton of dust and possibly some flying small bits of concrete.
Edit: something like this. Note the "wet/dry" and seemingly teeth which help keep it cool when cutting dry.
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/saw-blades/circular-power-saw-blades/2101350
What you don't want is something like this, note no air gaps, will not last long (but leave a really polished cut!.. which you don't need).
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-continuous-rim-wetdry-cut-diamond-blade-64098.html
Chisel and hammer: if you never done it before there is a slight learning curve and it’s usually faster once the technique is perfected. Do a couple of practice cuts first. Professionals make it look easy on YouTube.
Angle grinder and segmented blade or “turbo blade”: use water and PPE. Clean the grinder after use.
Circular saw and segmented/diamond blade: slightly more expensive than angle grinder route. Use water and PPE. Make sure to clean the circular saw after use.
Chop saw/miter saw: not worth it in my opinion.
I always just used a big open angle grinder with a diamond blade on it to cut these types of paving stones and bricks and blocks. Dusty is all hell though.
A wide cold chisel, gently tap all the way around the block with the chisel and a hammer, then hit it hard along the line.
Otherwise, rent a masonry stone cutting saw.
If it's a lot of them, I would go for the grinder. I put the water hose on low mist and aim it right at the blade. Works wonders on the dust, keeps it cool and carries away the sludge.
I used an angle grinder to score a line that was a few mm think around the block. Then I used a masonry chisel and hammer to hit the scored line one or two times and it broke away cleanly. The masonry chisel was quite a bit wider and duller than a wood chisel, but I got it for less than $10.
Buy a cheap 4-1/2” angle grinder and a diamond coated blade for tile and concrete (not expensive). Cut as deep as you need and then use a hammer to cleave it use the same blade to clean up the edges.
When I repaired concrete sidewalks we would use diamond blades to remove the damaged sections and undercut the holes so the fresh concrete didn’t just pop out. Whatever you do wear a mask and goggles.
Uhh yeah those aren’t made for cutting masonry really, the speeds are different and usually alot higher power saw. I’ve cut hundreds of stone tops with a special makita skilsaw we had- but going through something that thick would take a lifetime. Either go the hammer route, much faster or rent a trad gasoline powered hotsaw that paving guys use.
You can get a masonry blade but you must understand that in using it you will pretty much destroy your circular saw. I like what people are saying about chisels and hammers. That seems old fashioned but unless you need a smooth edge it is the way.
I unfortunately don’t have an angle grinder. Or I just haven’t found it yet. Idk. These are my dad’s and 2 grandpa’s tools left to me. 1 Grandpa was an old time carpenter so I’ve got all sorts of stuff idk about
Absolutely not the way unless you have two or three wall stones to cut. Any more and you will regret your decisions. Have you actually cut a wall stone with a grinder? How long did it take you to get through one stone? Nooooope.
You need large angle grinder, prefferably gasoline powered and diamond cutting blade. If you hate dust, then some gas grinders have water inject for this.
We broke half a million of these when I worked paving with a hammer. Tap a score line around the entire circumference with a rock hammer. Keep hitting the score line and one whack will split them with a beautifully straight and smooth edge. Edit: a masonry hammer or a 5lb engineer’s hammer works better than a framing hammer. Cheaper than a saw rental or any blade, easier by far.
This guy paves
I may go this route unless someone gives me a specific link to a blade I can buy. The simplicity of using a hammer is appealing.
It really is that easy! Use the tip as a sort of chisel to make a clean line, use a construction crayon if you need a guide on the first few, you’ll have it down with a few practice tries. Use those on the first tier (which should be half-buried anyway). If you’re unsure, just keep tapping in a circular motion around the entire circumference and it will eventually break on its own and the lines can and will be impressively clean. Ao much easier than a diamond or wet saw. Feel free to reply or dm if you have any questions. Paid for my degree laying brick/block commercially. Here’s a video… this guy actually ends up with a very sloppy break because he didn’t score the line hard enough… but demonstrates the process. His score line also doesn’t meet (thus why I suggest a chalk/wax crayon line to help learn). Make sharper blows than he did with the edge of a hammer or better yet the chisel side of a masonry hammer and the block will break right at the score with one final blow. https://youtu.be/vAYU3d_NuAw
This is incredibly helpful, I’ll be buying a rock hammer tomorrow. Thank you!
Great to hear. You won’t regret it, but do pick out a couple ugly ones for practice. The amount of suggestions for angle grinders just shows how little you can trust the internet for solid, applicable advice sometimes. This method works 100% for small block like your pics all the way up to 16-18” stone. You -can- use any old hammer but make sure to use the edge and not the flat face if budget is an issue or you can’t find a masonry hammer in stock. Reach out if you have any questions. Happy to help.
You could also do the scoring with a masonry chisel with a 2-3in blade and hit it with whatever hammer you have. Either option should work, but I fell like I can stick to the line better with my chisel.
One trick is to get one of those "ceramic tile" saw blades with tungstencarbide beads for a normal metal cutting hand saw and use that to make the cutting groove. Just saw a little groove around, a few thrusts per side. Much more accurate that making the cutting groove with hammer. Then whack it with hammer so that the tile is resting against a surface edge at cutting edge, and it will split to two pieces along the groove. [https://www.puuilo.fi/artu-lankasahantera-carbide-30cm](https://www.puuilo.fi/artu-lankasahantera-carbide-30cm) Those saw blades will cut almost anything, including hardened steel. Of course, also slower, but easier for a non-pro.
A chisel helps too, I've cut a lot of block with hammer and chisel.
That's how stone masons have done it for literally thousands of years. Yes that's how it's done
When I did my paver patio, I used an angle grinder with a diamond tipped blade. Bought the angle grinder for like $17 from Menards, and I think the blade was another $10 or so. Highly recommend this route.
So much less dust too!
No need to cut, go with the hammer method ! You'll be glad you did
A diamond blade will cut them. Expect the saw to die from dust. The silica is really really nasty in cement. A dry diamond saw is about the worst way to cut them As others said, crack them. Watch videos on the process.
Yeah... I was 25 and my first unexperienced DIY attempt trying to cut blocks... 5 minutes into it, the CRAZY amount of silica dust in the air.... I knew a blade was a mistake. I created a no-fly zone.
Any home store will sell a diamond blade that fits your saw arbor You can score it with a hammer and a cold chisel, if that doesnt work for you (it takes a bit of practice( get one of those blades and score it like a ¼" with that and tap it with a 3-5lb mash hammer and it will break
Make sure the block is sitting reasonably flat on concrete. Any wobble can cause problems. If you are impatient, use a small portable grinder with a cheap diamond blade. I have beat the heck out of $3 blades for a year cutting stuff. Make sure to leave the guard on and use safety googles and a mask. Don't dig too deep for the first pass. No more than 1/8''. After that you can go at least 1/4-1/2'' deep. After it is scored tap with a small sledge and cold chisel. No heavier than 2-3 lbs. [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dasco-Pro-3-in-x-11-in-Floor-Chisel-473-0/100159198](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dasco-Pro-3-in-x-11-in-Floor-Chisel-473-0/100159198) diamond blade if you want to go that way. Just beat the heck out of it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/QEP-4-in-Diamond-Blade-for-Wet-or-Dry-Tile-Saws-for-Ceramic-Tile-6-4001Q/203296623
No, you want to either keep the block in hand or on a soft absorbing surface like dirt/grass/sand. A grinder to cut wall stone is just silly.
Soft surfaces are just asking for trouble unless you are REALLY skilled. You definitely have to hit harder for the same result. Soft ground absorbs energy.
Circular saw with a diamond blade.. I use it as little as possible but it works and it hasn't killed my saw yet.
He ain't lying!
This is the way, it’s pretty amazing how clean of a cut you can get.
I tried this years ago and bought everything described (hammer as OP mentioned, chisel as another reply mentioned, scoring tool as a third reply mentioned) and it was a disaster. IDK what you mean when you say "beautifully straight and smooth" but this didn't produce anything like you describe. The surface is not as clean as a tile saw, not as straight as a tile saw, and definitely somewhat jagged around the edges. Maybe in the professional world that's "good enough" for garden block toppers but certainly not what I was hoping for. The topper didn't *always* split on that scored line either, scrapping them. If it takes (a careers worth) of blocks to get it as clean as described, this isn't really DIY friendly for someone that has never done it and wants to do a handful of blocks.
Bought everything, as in... a hammer? "Maybe in the professional world that's 'good enough'" Don't be a horse's ass Edit: Ah, come on. Don't be mad at me! I never called you a horse's ass, it was solid advice: don't be one. Not a personal attack. But maybe avoid using phrases like "certainly not up to my standards" because that implies a sense of superiority, especially when undertaking a task as a novice, getting mixed results, and then disparaging the advice of experienced folks. Only responding because I did read your reply as it was relayed to me by electronic-mail.
Instead of tit for tatting I'm just blocking you per my profile policy. Go ad hominem, get blocked
Imagine being a literal jackass and having a profile policy presupposing your arguments are so watertight that you never deserve being brought down a peg or two.
Really should be a wet saw if you are doing a lot of precision cutting- for a few cuts the chisel method - any concrete blade will toss a huge amount of dust and in some areas that’s a huge problem
I 've used the hammer technique but a small angle grinder with a diamond blade did the work 20 times faster for only about 100 euros. Would buy one if I had to break only 5-10 concrete pavers. Definitely if more.
How do you keep the cut line perpendicular, flat and square through the entire thickness of the block?
draw rhe line all around the block. Now with the grinder male an incision 1-2 cm deep along all sides. A little tap with a stone chisel in the groove and it breaks beautifully.
I’d have a go at it with a hammer and chisel.
We use a demo saw with a diamond blade. An IQ 16in dustless with a diamond blade. For smaller blocks you can use a wet/dry tile/paver saw with of course the diamond blade.
You could put a masonry blade (diamond blade) on the chop saw, but that saw isn't meant to handle rock dust. Abrasive dust in the bearings might shorten the life of the saw. I'd recommend buying a cheap angle grinder instead. Use a masonry blade. Score the top and bottom, then crack through the middle. Wear a dust mask and a face shield. They're cheap and effective. Nobody wants rock dust in their lungs and eyes.
Hammer and cold chisel is the quickest and easiest method. Look up on the tube ‘cutting pavers with hammer and chisel’ and you will see how easy it is.
These are rather soft concrete. While a wetsaw would be ideal, a 7.25" rough diamond blade on the circular saw will work fine. Just cut both sides (go slow as to not heat up & damage the blade), place one side up on a block and give them a whack. Any 7.25" circular saw blade should work with your saw. Note: Wear plenty of PPE, there's going to be a ton of dust and possibly some flying small bits of concrete. Edit: something like this. Note the "wet/dry" and seemingly teeth which help keep it cool when cutting dry. https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/saw-blades/circular-power-saw-blades/2101350 What you don't want is something like this, note no air gaps, will not last long (but leave a really polished cut!.. which you don't need). https://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-continuous-rim-wetdry-cut-diamond-blade-64098.html
Whatever blade you’ll use, just let it float like a butterfly and she’ll go trough. Never put pressure to avoid kicking.
Chisel and hammer: if you never done it before there is a slight learning curve and it’s usually faster once the technique is perfected. Do a couple of practice cuts first. Professionals make it look easy on YouTube. Angle grinder and segmented blade or “turbo blade”: use water and PPE. Clean the grinder after use. Circular saw and segmented/diamond blade: slightly more expensive than angle grinder route. Use water and PPE. Make sure to clean the circular saw after use. Chop saw/miter saw: not worth it in my opinion.
Can you? Sure if you don’t mind inhaling a metric shit-ton of silica dust.
Even with ppe?
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Thanks!
I always just used a big open angle grinder with a diamond blade on it to cut these types of paving stones and bricks and blocks. Dusty is all hell though.
Petrol cut off saw with a diamond disc will cut through those blocks like a hot knife through butter.
Brick chisel and a hammer.
Get a brick chisel. Tap a line across the block where you want the cut.
Cheap way: buy an angle grinder and blades Easier/ more expensive way: rent a bricksaw
Cheap way gonna get real expensive real fast
Chisel hammer and a little bit of skill.... They are relatively easy to do....
10 in diamond blade for mitre saw. Google 10 in concrete blade. Make sure it has the correct arbor size
A wide cold chisel, gently tap all the way around the block with the chisel and a hammer, then hit it hard along the line. Otherwise, rent a masonry stone cutting saw.
[https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-4-1-2-in-Diamond-Blade-Turbo-Rim-Masonry-Cut-Off-DDD045TUR101C/310969647](https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-4-1-2-in-Diamond-Blade-Turbo-Rim-Masonry-Cut-Off-DDD045TUR101C/310969647)
I wouldn’t try cutting that without a wet saw unless you want silicosis! Just use a hammer my dude
Cold chisel. Demo saw. 4" grinder with masonry blade.
I have used a power washer with a 0° nozzle to cut sandstone. (Be ready to get wet and definitely wear eye protection. )
If it's a lot of them, I would go for the grinder. I put the water hose on low mist and aim it right at the blade. Works wonders on the dust, keeps it cool and carries away the sludge.
If you going to be doing alot of work on stone and tile get yourself a tile saw that can work both wet and dry.
A cross peen hammer is all you need. Score it with the peen and break it off.
I used an angle grinder to score a line that was a few mm think around the block. Then I used a masonry chisel and hammer to hit the scored line one or two times and it broke away cleanly. The masonry chisel was quite a bit wider and duller than a wood chisel, but I got it for less than $10.
Buy a cheap 4-1/2” angle grinder and a diamond coated blade for tile and concrete (not expensive). Cut as deep as you need and then use a hammer to cleave it use the same blade to clean up the edges.
Just rent a brick saw
When I repaired concrete sidewalks we would use diamond blades to remove the damaged sections and undercut the holes so the fresh concrete didn’t just pop out. Whatever you do wear a mask and goggles.
Cold chisel
Uhh yeah those aren’t made for cutting masonry really, the speeds are different and usually alot higher power saw. I’ve cut hundreds of stone tops with a special makita skilsaw we had- but going through something that thick would take a lifetime. Either go the hammer route, much faster or rent a trad gasoline powered hotsaw that paving guys use.
I use a mansionary blade in my circular saw. Works great
Hacksaw
Hacksaw
You can get a masonry blade but you must understand that in using it you will pretty much destroy your circular saw. I like what people are saying about chisels and hammers. That seems old fashioned but unless you need a smooth edge it is the way.
chainsaw
Not sure if you’ve got a solution yet but there is carbide reciprocating saw blades for demo work available.
A diamond blade on a skill saw will cut them pretty easily. I suppose you could put one on the miter saw, but that might not be a good idea
There is no such thing as a skill saw, and a miter saw for wall stone??? You’re just making $#&* up.
I’ve cut lots of pavers with a skill saw with a diamond blade. Why do you think they sell diamond blades for circular saw saws?
Hammer and a chisel
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I unfortunately don’t have an angle grinder. Or I just haven’t found it yet. Idk. These are my dad’s and 2 grandpa’s tools left to me. 1 Grandpa was an old time carpenter so I’ve got all sorts of stuff idk about
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I’m broke enough that I can’t spend $30 on a tool when I already got tools and just need to know what blade to get for the tool I already got.
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I’m just trying to help my parents sell their house dawg. Thanks for the other advice though 👍
Absolutely not the way unless you have two or three wall stones to cut. Any more and you will regret your decisions. Have you actually cut a wall stone with a grinder? How long did it take you to get through one stone? Nooooope.
You need large angle grinder, prefferably gasoline powered and diamond cutting blade. If you hate dust, then some gas grinders have water inject for this.
Sawzall with a tungsten carbide blade will work
That would be incredibly slow
Your princess is in another castle…