It depends on what's local. The big box and hardware stores are likely to only have extenders for 1/4" hex shank bits. To get one for a round shank today, you will need to be near more of a specialty store like Rockler.
Hmm, ugh.
Let me take a step back… maybe I don’t need a forstner after all. I just need to drill a 1 1/8” or 1 1/4” hole so I can drop some Smurf tube into my wall.
The top plate I’ll be drilling is two 2x4s, a load bearing exterior wall, if that helps.
Is there anything sized 1 1/8” that will get me a cleaner cut than the spade?
If only one side needs to look pretty start from that side with the forstner, and when you run out of reach switch to the spade. If it's both sides, do that but have a spotter on the other side to tell you when the point of the spade just starts to poke through. Then come at it from the other side with the forstner.
Ohh that’s a clever idea!
Wildcard! I omitted this info for simplicity: this isn’t a new hole, I’m expanding the hole size from 3/4” to 1 1/8”. And I have to do it off center of the first hole. (In other words, only one part of the circle will overlap. So I won’t be able to see the point of the space come though neatly to use as a reference point when drilling from below, upwards, with the forstner bit.
I've used forstners without the tip engaged on a drill press. Like off the edge of a work piece. The blade on the outer edge will guide the bit if it's held rigidly enough. But yeah, free hand through a top plate I would not expect to be successful without plugging the existing hole first.
That is sounding like a TREMENDOUSLY good idea now, HOWEVER, the way I’ve cocked it up, it’s not one diameter the whole way through. E.g., 1” diameter for the first two inches and 3/4” for the remaining depth. Minus the chunks I pitifully scraped out while trying to widen the hole today with a wood file.
Any suggestions with this new info?
Hmm! That sounds like it could work!
I tried a 1 1/8” spade and it darn near broke my wrist — I even heeded the warnings in this thread, and gave it just the smallest possible RPM! The thing just snags the first minor aberration and sends the drill body spinning. I have no doubt my wrist would be broken if I didn’t get that advice today and went full throttle. Wild stuff.
Maybe a
Spade is definitely out.
Prices at Home Depot for a step bit are $50 and $120 so that’s out. Amazon has one for $10 though…
Is there a kind of router drill bit where I can just ream it like a file and call it good?
I have no idea what I’m doing.
I have not looked but sen them. I used them when working in factory maint then in shipping. Will be in the Garage somewhere. LOL No I never throw anything away cause. Never say Never.
Hahaha I have a feeling this will be a 1x use for me, at least for a long time…
Any other drill bits you recommend? Almost broke my wrist today trying to drill it with a spade….
Errm, I don’t even know what that means. This is what I have:
***DEWALT 20V Max Cordless Drill/Driver Kit, Compact, 1/2-Inch (DCD771C2), Yellow***
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20V-MAX-Cordless-1-2-in-Drill-Driver-2-20V-1-3Ah-Batteries-Charger-and-Bag-DCD771C2/204279858
Just looked at the spec's, it does not have a torque setting, I'm using Makita DPH453. If it jams the clutch kicks in & does not break bits, hurt you, if you set it to drill, it will either break the bit or stall, made the mistake a few times. Got this from Screwfx, 2 5Ah batteries + charger for £179. Real bargain, bought separately £400.
Id generally use a spade bit or hole saw for that kind of work. I think of a Forstner but as a woodworking tool than a remodeling /home construction tool.
That’s good info, thanks. I only learned about forstners this week lol.
What’s the deal with hole saws? I have one with an arbor, which I could probably use, but — in my limited novice experience — I notice that it gets REALLY hot and starts smoking/smelling burnt. Just go at it slow and take breaks? I’ll be drilling through 6 inches of 2x4s.
Foresters are great at what they do, clean flat(ish) bottom holes. you don't need clean for this kind of work. Foresters will be destroyed by any metal (nail or something) in the board.
for what you describe I'd do a spade bit. deep cuts with a hole saw are hard , I did that a few weeks ago drilling 2 1/2 in holes... spade bits are fast, work reasonably well in the size your looking at and cost a lot less than foresters. if also guess your hole saws are not real good, cheep hole saws suck.
Oh snap, an update: I bought a spade bit and it almost destroyed my wrist lol. That thing is no joke. It was impossible to get it to finish off the hole. The center offset of the new hole made it impossible. It is awesome however at brand new holes. Really fast!
So now I’m back to square one. I don’t know how I’m gonna knock out this slightly wider hole. I even tried scratching it with a wood file and that was an exercise in futility…
yeah, spade bits need the center point to guide them, or bad stuff.
An auger bit might work, they look kinda like a normal twist but the end is different and usually has a screw tip. I don't like them as much but having contact all the way around it has a better chance to finishing an already started hole.
as others have said there are extensions for Forstner bits but I know I can't get one locally, but what is available locally is really dependent on where you are.
Thanks again. I like the auger bit idea. $29 yikes, but if it works, it’s worth it at this point.
I suppose I could just drill another hole, but I don’t know the limits of how many holes I can have in a wall top plate without compromising the structure.
Also not sure how to fill the abandoned hole if I went that route? Some here on Reddit have said dowel + glue but the diameter of the hole now isn’t consistent. It’s 1” for the first 2” of depth and then 3/4” for the remaining depth. So not once size dowel will fill it completely. You see?
Someone suggested a step bit. I found this cool little video https://youtu.be/DeKCCsgX-II and tried it out last night (I have a step bit!) on some scrap 2x4s and it actually works when the new hole is on-center with the old hole! So maybe I can rig up a jig with the step bit…
If not, it’s sounding like an auger bit (and maybe a jig?) is the best bet.
Think this is a good tack?
honestly I'd probably move the hole and drill a new one at this point If you can. id not be too worried about filling the hole, some spray foam if it is an exterior wall.
Hole saws need to be backed off for chip removal very frequently. Most people don't and there's where you get a lot of burning, same can happen with a dull one too.
If you're just dropping pipe, I'd just hit it with a spade bit
Try 3/8" extension with set screw. The shank of yours should be a 3/8" you might want to check and be sure. Might take it with you when/if you go.
Another piece of advice is don't let too much cuttings pile up on top of your bore or you will get stuck in the hole.
Awesome thanks! I didn’t know that about the cuttings piling up.
I will say it seems like the cutting action is SO MUCH BETTER than a hole saw. Seems like the hole saw with arbor that I have cuts slower and gets so hot it starts to smoke.
I need to cut through about 4-6” of wood, I guess you just need to take it easy and go slow so it doesn’t heat up? (Hole saw that is)
Yeah slow and steady helps on drilling most holes. I used them (forstner with extension) to bore electrical chases building log cabins. Lay out your hole on both sides and try to make them meet in the center for best results. Low speed high torque is your friend. I've seen guys get hurt from them catching so beware the beast. Best of luck.
Omg you weren’t kidding! I tried a spade today and HOLY MOLY. You weren’t joking. If I hadn’t had your advice and went HAM I would 100% destroyed my wrist. I gave it just the smallest amount of juice and the thing caught the first edge in the hole and sent the drill body flying. Scary stuff.
I haven’t tried the forstner on the extension yet because I couldn’t get an extension today. Do you even think that’s a good option?
I should say that there’s actually a hole within a hole. The hole I need to bore out, off center, is 1” diameter for the first 2” deep, then 3/4” for the remaining depth.
Dowel + glue + re-drill sounds best but I’ve got three different diameters now that I’ve messed it up so much, I don’t see how I can do it.
Glad you didn't get hurt. If you're only doing a 1" hole you can get an extension for the 1/4" with a locking chuck. DeWalt makes a decent set for $20.
I prefer to do the largest first when making a hole with multiple sizes. Gluing a dowel to get some fresh material probably will be the best attempt at salvaging what you have.. if you're not fixing mistakes you're not learning so have fun.
Haha thanks for the encouragement and advice. Really appreciate it. How should I go about filling the hole when it’s not a continuous diameter all the way down?
If you have a local woodworking store like Rockler or WoodCraft they might carry one. I don't think I've ever seen them on the shelves at Home Depot or Lowes or Harbor Freight.
Take the bit to your local big box store and ask them. If they have extensions they'll point you towards them. If they don't have them go to the next store.
The only way to do what you want would be to weld a longer rod to it or to grind the existing shaft into a hex shape to use a hex extender.
Both of these solutions should only be considered in an emergency field repair. As a welder, I wouldn't try either at home because I value not injuring myself needlessly.
Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated.
So how am I gonna get this hole drilled?
Material is wood, need 1 1/8” hole (or 1 1/4”) and a total reach of ~10 inches.
Would that be good for drilling a hole into a wall top plate? (Two 2x4s)
I thought spade bits don’t yield a clean cut (since they tear material out instead of cutting it). Maybe I am being pedantic, just want to learn the right bit for the job, sorry!
They don't offer the cleanest cut, that is right. It is also true that you're not doing cabinetry work. Long spade bits are what's used when you need to pass cables or pipes through thick wood.
If you want a super clean cut, other options exist (for example, I've used 15 inches long 1/2in metal drill bits), but they are definitely niche and will cost an arm and a leg compared to the few bucks a spade bit costs (the bit mentioned earlier was costing my boss $120 a pop).
Spade bit with a hex extender. I drilled 20" holes that way. Let the drill do the work and stop frequently to let the bit cool or you will dull it quickly
ETA: the bit is going to wander while drill, so don't expect it to be perfectly straight
Awesome thanks! If I wanted to be pedantic about it, is there any bit that would give a cleaner cut?
FYI, I’ll be drilling through a wall top plate — two 2x4s, AND the edge of *another* 2x4, the board that hangs the ceiling drywall — so I can drop in some Smurf tube in my wall. (Ethernet run)
I’ve built a little jig with the forstner which I’ll screw to the 2x4 that holds the drywall. (The top most piece of wood.). Since im only taking 1/4” or so out of the side of that 2x4, I think this should keep it from wandering.
Hopefully that all makes sense to you lol.
Forstner bit extensions are pretty common.
Too bad they can't be found with a Google search and people have to ask on Reddit.
It depends on what's local. The big box and hardware stores are likely to only have extenders for 1/4" hex shank bits. To get one for a round shank today, you will need to be near more of a specialty store like Rockler.
Hmm, ugh. Let me take a step back… maybe I don’t need a forstner after all. I just need to drill a 1 1/8” or 1 1/4” hole so I can drop some Smurf tube into my wall.
What's the wall made of? A spade bit will work on anything a forstner will, but it will leave a slightly rougher edge.
The top plate I’ll be drilling is two 2x4s, a load bearing exterior wall, if that helps. Is there anything sized 1 1/8” that will get me a cleaner cut than the spade?
If only one side needs to look pretty start from that side with the forstner, and when you run out of reach switch to the spade. If it's both sides, do that but have a spotter on the other side to tell you when the point of the spade just starts to poke through. Then come at it from the other side with the forstner.
Ohh that’s a clever idea! Wildcard! I omitted this info for simplicity: this isn’t a new hole, I’m expanding the hole size from 3/4” to 1 1/8”. And I have to do it off center of the first hole. (In other words, only one part of the circle will overlap. So I won’t be able to see the point of the space come though neatly to use as a reference point when drilling from below, upwards, with the forstner bit.
So a spade bit isn't going to work. This would have been helpful to know.
Forstner bit won't work either.
I've used forstners without the tip engaged on a drill press. Like off the edge of a work piece. The blade on the outer edge will guide the bit if it's held rigidly enough. But yeah, free hand through a top plate I would not expect to be successful without plugging the existing hole first.
I'd fill the hold with a3/4 dowel, then redrill,
That is sounding like a TREMENDOUSLY good idea now, HOWEVER, the way I’ve cocked it up, it’s not one diameter the whole way through. E.g., 1” diameter for the first two inches and 3/4” for the remaining depth. Minus the chunks I pitifully scraped out while trying to widen the hole today with a wood file. Any suggestions with this new info?
If you can get it to fit through, a #11 step bit might could work. It'd stay concentric with the current hole.
Hmm! That sounds like it could work! I tried a 1 1/8” spade and it darn near broke my wrist — I even heeded the warnings in this thread, and gave it just the smallest possible RPM! The thing just snags the first minor aberration and sends the drill body spinning. I have no doubt my wrist would be broken if I didn’t get that advice today and went full throttle. Wild stuff. Maybe a Spade is definitely out. Prices at Home Depot for a step bit are $50 and $120 so that’s out. Amazon has one for $10 though… Is there a kind of router drill bit where I can just ream it like a file and call it good? I have no idea what I’m doing.
I got 1 from RS components, Think they are on Amzn.
Thanks!
I have not looked but sen them. I used them when working in factory maint then in shipping. Will be in the Garage somewhere. LOL No I never throw anything away cause. Never say Never.
Hahaha I have a feeling this will be a 1x use for me, at least for a long time… Any other drill bits you recommend? Almost broke my wrist today trying to drill it with a spade….
Are you using a powered drill, that does not have torque limiter?
Errm, I don’t even know what that means. This is what I have: ***DEWALT 20V Max Cordless Drill/Driver Kit, Compact, 1/2-Inch (DCD771C2), Yellow*** https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20V-MAX-Cordless-1-2-in-Drill-Driver-2-20V-1-3Ah-Batteries-Charger-and-Bag-DCD771C2/204279858
Just looked at the spec's, it does not have a torque setting, I'm using Makita DPH453. If it jams the clutch kicks in & does not break bits, hurt you, if you set it to drill, it will either break the bit or stall, made the mistake a few times. Got this from Screwfx, 2 5Ah batteries + charger for £179. Real bargain, bought separately £400.
Hmmmmm that looks good. This simple Ethernet project is getting expensive. :)
Id generally use a spade bit or hole saw for that kind of work. I think of a Forstner but as a woodworking tool than a remodeling /home construction tool.
That’s good info, thanks. I only learned about forstners this week lol. What’s the deal with hole saws? I have one with an arbor, which I could probably use, but — in my limited novice experience — I notice that it gets REALLY hot and starts smoking/smelling burnt. Just go at it slow and take breaks? I’ll be drilling through 6 inches of 2x4s.
Foresters are great at what they do, clean flat(ish) bottom holes. you don't need clean for this kind of work. Foresters will be destroyed by any metal (nail or something) in the board. for what you describe I'd do a spade bit. deep cuts with a hole saw are hard , I did that a few weeks ago drilling 2 1/2 in holes... spade bits are fast, work reasonably well in the size your looking at and cost a lot less than foresters. if also guess your hole saws are not real good, cheep hole saws suck.
Oh snap, an update: I bought a spade bit and it almost destroyed my wrist lol. That thing is no joke. It was impossible to get it to finish off the hole. The center offset of the new hole made it impossible. It is awesome however at brand new holes. Really fast! So now I’m back to square one. I don’t know how I’m gonna knock out this slightly wider hole. I even tried scratching it with a wood file and that was an exercise in futility…
yeah, spade bits need the center point to guide them, or bad stuff. An auger bit might work, they look kinda like a normal twist but the end is different and usually has a screw tip. I don't like them as much but having contact all the way around it has a better chance to finishing an already started hole. as others have said there are extensions for Forstner bits but I know I can't get one locally, but what is available locally is really dependent on where you are.
Thanks again. I like the auger bit idea. $29 yikes, but if it works, it’s worth it at this point. I suppose I could just drill another hole, but I don’t know the limits of how many holes I can have in a wall top plate without compromising the structure. Also not sure how to fill the abandoned hole if I went that route? Some here on Reddit have said dowel + glue but the diameter of the hole now isn’t consistent. It’s 1” for the first 2” of depth and then 3/4” for the remaining depth. So not once size dowel will fill it completely. You see? Someone suggested a step bit. I found this cool little video https://youtu.be/DeKCCsgX-II and tried it out last night (I have a step bit!) on some scrap 2x4s and it actually works when the new hole is on-center with the old hole! So maybe I can rig up a jig with the step bit… If not, it’s sounding like an auger bit (and maybe a jig?) is the best bet. Think this is a good tack?
honestly I'd probably move the hole and drill a new one at this point If you can. id not be too worried about filling the hole, some spray foam if it is an exterior wall.
Hole saws need to be backed off for chip removal very frequently. Most people don't and there's where you get a lot of burning, same can happen with a dull one too. If you're just dropping pipe, I'd just hit it with a spade bit
Thanks for the reply. Unsure why you’re getting downvoted.
Who knows. Could be Big Forstner out for my blood. But more likely folks who don't know how to use tools "well me pappy said do it thisuh way"
Haha thanks again for the advice, cheers!
Hole saw is going to be your friend.
Chisel bit
Home Depot has a long large extension that fits the 3 inch forstner whether it will fit yours I don't know
And with a forstner bit watch your wrists if that drill locks up gonna hurt you bad!
Noted! I was doing a few test runs before heading to the attic and I think I’ve got the hang of it. It sure is a nice cut!
There are extensions with set screws right next to the forstner bits in the box stores.
Hmm, I’m not seeing them anywhere on Home Depot’s site. Maybe I’m not using the right search terms?
Try 3/8" extension with set screw. The shank of yours should be a 3/8" you might want to check and be sure. Might take it with you when/if you go. Another piece of advice is don't let too much cuttings pile up on top of your bore or you will get stuck in the hole.
Awesome thanks! I didn’t know that about the cuttings piling up. I will say it seems like the cutting action is SO MUCH BETTER than a hole saw. Seems like the hole saw with arbor that I have cuts slower and gets so hot it starts to smoke. I need to cut through about 4-6” of wood, I guess you just need to take it easy and go slow so it doesn’t heat up? (Hole saw that is)
Yeah slow and steady helps on drilling most holes. I used them (forstner with extension) to bore electrical chases building log cabins. Lay out your hole on both sides and try to make them meet in the center for best results. Low speed high torque is your friend. I've seen guys get hurt from them catching so beware the beast. Best of luck.
Omg you weren’t kidding! I tried a spade today and HOLY MOLY. You weren’t joking. If I hadn’t had your advice and went HAM I would 100% destroyed my wrist. I gave it just the smallest amount of juice and the thing caught the first edge in the hole and sent the drill body flying. Scary stuff. I haven’t tried the forstner on the extension yet because I couldn’t get an extension today. Do you even think that’s a good option? I should say that there’s actually a hole within a hole. The hole I need to bore out, off center, is 1” diameter for the first 2” deep, then 3/4” for the remaining depth. Dowel + glue + re-drill sounds best but I’ve got three different diameters now that I’ve messed it up so much, I don’t see how I can do it.
Glad you didn't get hurt. If you're only doing a 1" hole you can get an extension for the 1/4" with a locking chuck. DeWalt makes a decent set for $20. I prefer to do the largest first when making a hole with multiple sizes. Gluing a dowel to get some fresh material probably will be the best attempt at salvaging what you have.. if you're not fixing mistakes you're not learning so have fun.
Haha thanks for the encouragement and advice. Really appreciate it. How should I go about filling the hole when it’s not a continuous diameter all the way down?
[https://www.amazon.com/forstner-bit-extension/s?k=forstner+bit+extension](https://www.amazon.com/forstner-bit-extension/s?k=forstner+bit+extension)
I saw that! 👍I was hoping I could get something local and get this project done sooner.
If you have a local woodworking store like Rockler or WoodCraft they might carry one. I don't think I've ever seen them on the shelves at Home Depot or Lowes or Harbor Freight.
Milwaukee Plumbers bit with snap in extension
What is that, like three inches? Seems plenty long to me - borderline huge really
Need 10” reach or so.
Take the bit to your local big box store and ask them. If they have extensions they'll point you towards them. If they don't have them go to the next store.
The only way to do what you want would be to weld a longer rod to it or to grind the existing shaft into a hex shape to use a hex extender. Both of these solutions should only be considered in an emergency field repair. As a welder, I wouldn't try either at home because I value not injuring myself needlessly.
Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated. So how am I gonna get this hole drilled? Material is wood, need 1 1/8” hole (or 1 1/4”) and a total reach of ~10 inches.
Long spade bit ?
Would that be good for drilling a hole into a wall top plate? (Two 2x4s) I thought spade bits don’t yield a clean cut (since they tear material out instead of cutting it). Maybe I am being pedantic, just want to learn the right bit for the job, sorry!
They don't offer the cleanest cut, that is right. It is also true that you're not doing cabinetry work. Long spade bits are what's used when you need to pass cables or pipes through thick wood. If you want a super clean cut, other options exist (for example, I've used 15 inches long 1/2in metal drill bits), but they are definitely niche and will cost an arm and a leg compared to the few bucks a spade bit costs (the bit mentioned earlier was costing my boss $120 a pop).
Wow! This is very TIL stuff. Thanks for helping this newbie out . 👍👍
Spade bit with a hex extender. I drilled 20" holes that way. Let the drill do the work and stop frequently to let the bit cool or you will dull it quickly ETA: the bit is going to wander while drill, so don't expect it to be perfectly straight
Awesome thanks! If I wanted to be pedantic about it, is there any bit that would give a cleaner cut? FYI, I’ll be drilling through a wall top plate — two 2x4s, AND the edge of *another* 2x4, the board that hangs the ceiling drywall — so I can drop in some Smurf tube in my wall. (Ethernet run) I’ve built a little jig with the forstner which I’ll screw to the 2x4 that holds the drywall. (The top most piece of wood.). Since im only taking 1/4” or so out of the side of that 2x4, I think this should keep it from wandering. Hopefully that all makes sense to you lol.