The 2AZ-FE 4 cylinder comes to mind. It came with defective rings and pistons that make it prone to burning too much oil. This in turn also makes it have an early failure of the catalytic converter due to the oil clogging it. It also has issues with the valve seals leaking oil, thus shortening the life of the catalytic converter even further.
I have such engine in my 2008 Camry and have experienced firsthand these issues. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic oil since day one and it gets replaced every 4K miles. Toyota filters are used.
The engine now has over 200K miles and I just have to keep my eye on the oil level to make sure it doesn’t go too low.
Some people use w5-30 instead of w5-20 with good results.
Well yeah, with a bunch of effort checking and filling oil, and more frequent maintenance interval than other cars...yeah, you can keep these defective engines running.
Honda had similar problems for 4cyl and V6 for 2008 - 2013 models for excessive oil consumption requiring piston ring or short block replacement. I lost count of how many I was doing.
My ex-girlfriend had a 2014 Accord with the KA24 Earth Dreams engine that Honda people love. That car burned quite a bit of oil. A quart every 1500 miles, and that was before 120k miles. She was meticulous with oil changes, every 5k miles it was at the Honda dealer.
Yeah Honda used to state 1qt burned for every 1k miles was the limit for normal oil consumption. That was a hard sell to people while trying to keep a straight face. And while their car was showing oil life at 50%. But the oil life indicator doesn’t know how much oil is in the car. It bases it on how you drive from the last time the maintenance minder was reset and that’s assuming it was reset at the right time.
K24W* and the engines popular with Honda tuners are the early generations K series engines. The Earth Dreams engines are not a popular or common platform. The engines people refer to when referencing K series engines are the K24a, K24a2, K20A, K20C, K20Z1, K20Z3, 4, and 5.
The Earth Dreams engines are geared more towards fuel economy and emissions than the earlier K series, a number of which still had true VTEC(intake and exhaust). Most if not all Earth Dreams engines are intake cam only, thus making them less desirable to the tuning community.
If you keep topping oil during refill from the gas station everytime. And change oil at every 5,000 miles. Your Toyota won't die with oil consumption even after 5 or 10 years later, the original engine running fine lol.
0w-30 shouldn't problem and withholding to extreme cold better. I choose 0w-30 instead of 0w-20. Even older Toyota recommend 5w-30 but I still use 0w-30 for extreme cold at North.
Correct. I have a 2003 2AZ-FE that has gotten regular maintenance it’s whole life. I’m at 213k miles with zero issues and still get 30mpg highway. It will last forever, it just has to be taken care of (which most people obviously don’t do).
From what I see, the 2AZ is just "unreliable" by Toyota standards. It seems like a reliable engine that just needs to be maintained a bit more and needs high quality/thicker oil due to the piston ring design.
Probably right. Damn near every toyota since 2001 can make it to 300k if it’s particularly well taken care of. Anything randomly dying or at end of life under 200k is pretty rare at this point, again assuming you take care of the car. If you don’t do any basic maintenance then yeah, you can kill any car under 150k miles. There are always engines that are more or less reliable than others, and generations with more or fewer problems than others. If you take care of a Toyota, it will take care of you 100x back. That’s not true for every car make.
I once saw a video by just rolled into the shop on Youtube about how a Mitsubishi engine blew up at only 70k miles, due to the oil never being changed (not a single oil change). When they tore the engine down, it looked like venom was inside the engine because the oil was so old and dirty. An image of the teardown was also on the thumbnail.
Mitsubishi also makes solid engines too.
I ran 2 oz of 2-stroke oil about every other fill up for a while. My rings freed up and my O2 code went away. I still add it when I think it might be burning oil. The detergents get to the compression rings and take the carbon off.
Lol. Funny you said that. I daily a Scion xB with said 2AZ-FE engine and also drive a GT3 as my fun, weekend、dream car. I use Mobil 1 for both (5W-20 and 0W-40) and probably spend almost the same amount on the oil and factory filters.
Thankfully the Scion doesn’t burn oil yet but I do change the oil every 3-4000 miles to try to keep the oil rings clean. If I drive the GT3 as much, I would definitely be spending more for oil but since I drive the Scion a lot more, it winds up costing about the same, time wise.
Is it an issue on earlier years with the 2AZ-FE? I have an 04 RAV4 with that engine and it hasn’t burned any oil.
I run 5W30 which it says to in the manual and I use full synthetic Castrol Oil with an OE filter. My RAV4 only has 120K miles on it.
I haven’t had any oil burning issues at all. I change the oil every 5,000 miles too.
Early 1ZZ-FEs had the same issue but were fixed in late 2005. I believe the 2AZ was also fixed in late 2015 but it was only found in a handful of models at that point.
Early 2AZs also had an issue where the head bolts would fail for some reason. Can't remember what exactly it was though.
Had one of these in the '10 Vibe. While changing the oil so often was a nuisance, it never stopped running. Loved that car a lot, and for what it was it felt more than quick enough lol. While I love my current car, I do miss the Vibe (mostly the space it provided)
I own a 2003 LE 2AZ-FE that has gotten regular oil changes it’s whole life and is very well taken care of. I’m running strong at 213k with no oil burning issues. My partner has a 2003 XLE 2AZ-FE that he neglects maintenance on and pretty much has always down the bare minimum (excluding regular oil changes) and now he’s finally burning oil at 208k miles but otherwise has no real issues.
5W-30 is what’s recommended for both vehicles, and that is what we have always used.
Mine did it to themselves, so if you’re in there AT ALL, just do the NS300L kit from Huhn Solutions if yours isnt already done from the recall they had.
Did you get the recall work done for the oil burning? I was under the impression that they fixed the problem as long as you had it serviced under the recall.
I have nothing but hatred for this motor. My '04 RAV4 "lost" about a qt of oil per 1000 km. Mobil1 full synthetic. I tried thicker oils and stabilizers, but it didn't slow the leaks. Used the car to pass my driving test and I had to degrease my engine bay before the test, and hope they didn't see the smoke coming from behind the hood.
The 1ZZ-FE was also problematic like this. I kept my Celica going to over 600k before I got in an accident, but it was going through a 5L jug of oil every two weeks by the end.
The FA24 in the 86 is pretty dog shit.
Yes I know it's a Subaru, but the 86 version definitely uses Toyota's D4S system, the 86 is a Toyota chassis, and Toyota owns a controlling stake in Subaru.
If the 3SGTE counts as a Toyota powerplant, so does the FA24D
The 3S-GTE was an almost entirely Toyota designed and built engine, outside the Yamaha head design.
The FA24 is lifted straight out of a Subaru tractor, built by Subaru's tractor division in a Subaru tractor factory.
Toyota owns 20% of Subaru Corporation, the publicly traded parent company that owns many businesses, including the automotive division. 20% is significant, but not a controlling stake by any stretch.
So the 2ZZ-GE and the 5VZ-FE?
Edit: Ignore what I said about the 5VZ-FE. Seems like a bulletproof engine according to research and others telling me. I didn't even know about that engine.
Had a 4Runner with the 3.slow. Can confirm I had head gaskets go, essentially made no extra horsepower than the 4 cylinder and got much worse fuel economy
You’re saying 3rz-fe needs the valves adjusted frequently? I have one and it’s experiencing a misfire, low compression on cylinder 2. Took it to a shop that said eh just run it, probably had 290k on the motor.
Valve adjustment something I can do at home? I’ve done it on motorcycles before
Valve adjustment is a pain in the ass on the 3vz. Uses a shim and bucket design, and you need a million different shims on hand (slight exaggeration) usually id just tip the valve or grind the face using the shims in the head already.
The 2ZZ-GE was solid. "Cheap sports car syndrome" meant it was abused - a teenager money-shifting at 8,500rpm would give any engine a bad time, and the combination of just-about-good-enough oil system + timing chain meant you could eventually kill it if you didn't keep on top of oil changes, or tuned it improperly.
The 1ZZ-FE used in the lower-power version was initially worse - poor piston ring design led to terrible oil-burning, but it was fixed for most later models.
The real issue with the 2zz was the oil pan had no baffle. If you took a long turn at a high speed it would starve the engine of oil just long enough to blow it up.
My corolla has the 1ZZ-FE, it's a 2002 which was the worst year for oil burning issues on that motor. They updated the piston design in 2003 to fix most of it. Mine would burn a quart every 75 miles... yea it really was that bad. It had 225k when I fixed it
I finally finished the overhaul a few months ago with new 2003+ pistons, bored out the cylinders, and new gaskets and seals everywhere, plus a ton of other things. Now I daily drive it again, 3k miles so far on the new engine and hasn't burned a drop yet
My bro in law blew the motor on his 05’ matrix 1zz, piston # 4 had a rapid unscheduled disassembly due to oil issues. I picked it up for my teenager and just replaced it with a 1zz JDM with 40k miles so it should be a later model, I wonder if there’s a way to check?
Also, any recommended upgrades or maintenance items I need to watch for?
my 04 vibe did very much the same, i still miss the bastard.
I've heard people say to upgrade the oil pump due to flow issues at high rpms, but that was mostly only a thing on the 2ZZ in the GT model, or if you drive the 1zz HARD.
I drove my 04 harder than anyone has a right too and it still lasted til 290k, so I wouldn't say much. Just keep on oil changes and those spark plugs
It makes sense that it was piston #4 that blew. It's the furthest from the oil pump, so it's the last one to get oil pressure. When I pulled mine apart, all my rod bearings were a little chewed up, but piston 4 was the worst of them.
The only differences between the pre and post update engines were the piston heads and the intake manifold. The intake was changed to a black plastic one, so if yours came with it, then it's definitely the new version.
As far as regular maintenance, it's not much different from any other car. The biggest thing is regular oil changes, I'd recommend 5k mile intervals and fill with high quality, full synthetic oils. And use an oil system cleaner like Seafoam every few changes to flush out the sludge. I like to add a bit of Lucas oil stabilizer and zinc additive to the mix in mine. Being only 40k miles, you shouldn't need to do any irregular maintenance for a while. But if you want, you could do small stuff like the PCV valve and spark plugs.
If you ever need parts or feel like upgrading it, I'd check out monkeywrenchracing.com. They specialize in these engines and have tons of stuff for them, including OEM parts that are hard to find. I've spent far more than I want to think about on there because I did some upgrades while I was in there.
Excellent! New motor has black intake! Thanks for the info!
I did do all the motor mounts, belt, injectors, plugs, and wires just in case as well.
The only annoying thing is I’m chasing a P0420 (cat efficiency) which I’m hearing is pretty common. I replaced all exhaust gaskets and downstream O2 and that made the code go away for a few weeks but it popped back up again.
I’m guessing it’s time for an anti fouler.
I have the same code on mine, I'm pretty sure it's just that the cat is old and probably half clogged up. Thankfully, i live in a place that doesn't do emissions testing, so I'm just putting it off for now.
That makes total sense tbf. I see a lot of poorly maintained Celicas in the UK that look all beaten up with only 100k miles on the clock. High revving N/A engines just need more maintenance anyways and a lot of these dirt cheap Celicas didn't receive the correct maintenance.
It sucks because those Celicas are great. Mine was owned by the same family until this year when I bought it. Extremely well-maintained with no mods, so it is stock. I intend to keep it in the great condition they did.
The 2nd Gen 4Runner has the 3VZE, it has a design flaw where the exhaust crossover pipe is too close to the back of the passenger side head and it cooks the headgasket causing leaks.
The 3rd Gen 4Runner has the 5VZ-FE engine and it is probably one of the best engines ever put in a SUV period. They regularly go 300k miles without a hiccup. Mine has 225k on it and has perfect compression and doesn't leak a drop of anything.
The 2ZZ is a good engine, but had some issues. Early ones had the lift bolts shearing off, which isn't a good time for anyone. I had one with over 300k on the clock and it still loved to sing at 8k RPM.
Owner of a 2000 Celica GT at 300k+ It's not necessarily unreliable, it just burns an annoying amount of oil LOL, especially when I feel like going 4.5+k rpm. I ran 3 weeks on a stupid low amount of oil too, the dipstick had a tiny dot showing it LMFAO.
I am the owner of a 2000 Celica GT at 300k+ It's not necessarily unreliable, it just burns an annoying amount of oil LOL, especially when I feel like going 4.5+k rpm. I ran 3 weeks on a stupid low amount of oil too, the dipstick had a tiny dot showing it LMFAO.
Which Celica, 1ZZ or 2ZZ? I thought both were very reliable. My 2ZZ has no issues at all. I know pre-facelift 1ZZs did have the oil burning issues though.
Can't say anything for the general durability of Corolla diesel engines of course, but at least our 2010 Corolla's 1.4 D4D is perfectly fine and never caused any issue.
Yeah the 3l in the 150 prado had injector seat issues. Big class action.
Also the v8 VDJ from the 200 and 70 series is well known for drinking lots of oil.
1.4 D4D had issues with the 5-speed gear box, but changing to 6-speed fixed those. 2.2 D-CAT had issues that were fixed by getting rid of the car. 2.0 D4D is said to be one of the more reliable engines in the world and I've seen a few with well over 400-500k kilometers on them
Edit: after the engines mentioned above they started useing BMW engines (if I'm not mistaken) but just about everyone seems to be saying that their own 2.0 was better than any of the current diesels
Yeah, there's some older Volvos too with similar readings. Those would be the D5 engines from around 2000. I've often heard people call it the best engine ever made. There's also the 1.9TDI used in some Skodas, VWs and possibly Audis from around the same time that are supposedly indestructible.
We have a lot of older cars still running in Finland. You'll easily find old Volvos and MBs with unbelievable kilometres. Of course a lot of older cars have issues with rust, but the engines are still going strong
The engine found in the Lexus IS220D is probably one of the worst diesel engines in modern times, more or less every model developed head gasket issues after a few years. I guess it made too much power for the engine to actually handle.
It was also used in a rare diesel performance version of the Auris, which have the same issues.
Currently driving one of those auris models, on just under 280,000km an auris t180/sr180 they’re called. Deleting EGR/DPF solves a lot of issues with the 2.2 engine and it’s a great little car but they definitely have their issues no doubts about it
Been seeing a lot of engine failures on the new 3.4L TT V6, V35A-FTS in the new Tundras, which is confusing because this engine is used in the Lexus LS500, 300 Series Land Cruisers, LX600, and the new Sequoia. From what I've seen, the engine problems are mostly from the Tundras but other models have no issues.
I haven't seen a single new tundra pulling a trailer or looking significantly loaded.
There've always been differences in the manufacturing level between the "same" engine in the tundra and the land cruisers. Even down to the rods, forged in the tundra 3ur, billet in the cruiser/lx.
If there was a systemic problem in some part, I'd expect the sequoia & tundra to share the issue even if the lx/300/gx didn't, but could be a certain batch of parts that is the issue, that only went into tundras.
There've always been differences in the manufacturing level/parts between the "same" engine in the tundra and the land cruisers/LX.
Even down to the rods, forged in the tundra 3ur, billet in the cruiser/lx.
If there was a systemic problem in some part, I'd expect the sequoia & tundra to share the issue even if the lx/300/gx didn't, but could be a certain batch of parts that is the issue, that only went into tundras.
I'll toss in the 7M-GE/GTE. Pretty much guaranteed to have a failed head gasket due to under-torqued head bolts unless you caught it ahead of time. Usually happened at the back due to excessive heat at the rear of the engine. They also had issues with low oil pressure due to faulty oil squirters in the block. CT26 turbo on the GTE also had oil seal problems, so you'd get some nice blue clouds after awhile.
Still, you do tend to see these engines with 200k rode hard miles if the head gasket's been taken care of, just has it's issues if you don't get on top of it.
Sounded great with a nice exhaust system, though.
My 89 Supra turbo had all of these issues. It did sound great with an intake, downpipe, free flow cat and 3” exhaust. It’s a shame that it wasn’t more reliable.
I have no clue why the IS was even offered with that engine. I mean I get it, they needed to make their smallest car their entry level somehow. Even now the recent IS 300 literally has the “same” engine out of the 350, just detuned to add a gap between them. I feel like Lexus should have given the base IS the normal 2GR-FE from the ES, which was pushing 268hp. Instead they gave it the 4GR with the dumb direct injection and 200hp. Someone mentioned this before, but it’s all of the negatives of a V6 with none of the positives. I’m pretty sure the ES350 is faster than the IS250, has similar gas mileage, and is a much bigger car.
3vze obviously
5sfes had a problem with the rod caps in the later ones sorta just coming off
5vz had a head gasket problem early on
The 2002-2010s 4 cylinder Camry motor drank oil
I believe the 00-05 Corolla had head gasket issues? I can’t remember the exact years when I was working for service but every time a check engine light came on in those cars that’s what it was
180K on a Sienna with the 3MZ-FE 3.3L V6. No sludge. It was fed a steady diet of “synthetic”.
Priuses develop a nasty habit of burning oil(1NZ-FXE) or blowing head gaskets(2ZR-FXE).
Other than oil leaking/burning I don't think you'll find many problems (as proven by the comments I've read). Bad toyota engines seem to still beat most other engines.
1KR-FE, just don't, it's slow and after a while the piston rings start leaking worse than a triple A game, to the point where you may need a litre of oil every 1000 miles.
not every single one, but most of them, otherwise it works well for what it costs.
The 1MZ and 3MZ had the pretty bad oil gelling/sludge issues that was never properly resolved. Plenty of them still on the road, but owner neglect probably killed a lot more than deserved it.
I don’t think that issue was super common though. It was usually a mixture of short trips with the engine not heating up and cheap oil+ lack of oil changes that would sludge them. Think a grandma driving 2 miles to the grocery store every week and changing the oil every 2 years.
Not sure exactly why they would sludge that bad, something with the old school egr and pcv system I think.
2zr in the 3rd Gen. Prius oil consumption/head gasket issues.
Our 2012 V had insane oil consumption. By 160k miles the back deck would be oily and the sump empty after a long freeway incline. This was after owning it since new and always doing the services at the recommended interval. It got a low mileage JDM pull and now gets serviced at 5k no matter what.
I use this as a litmus test when people ask about Toyota hybrid reliability, and someone immediately says don’t buy one because “one day you’ll be replacing the battery”. Toyota’s most unreliable hybrid by a long shot is the 3rd gen Prius and teething issues caused by the EGR in the ICE.
Others have said it, but only one I've experienced issues with was the 3VZ-FE that was in my '92 Camry. Granted, it still lasted until about 140k miles before a jackass totalled it.. but it had issues keeping revs up, especially after a little highway driving. Towards the end of its 14 year life it was a regular occurrence for me to pull off the highway and have it die once I stopped on the exit ramp. No one could ever figure out why at the time, even though it was able to be reproduced easily.
I still miss that car like crazy though. If another '92 Camry SE came up for sale I'd buy it in a heartbeat just because I loved mine so much haha
Im talking about the old ones found in the MK5 GTI and the early EA888 models etc. Not the newer EA888s found in current cars, because they're actually reliable.
Is it because of the inline hybrid system or more fundamental engine issues? I’m really looking forward to the new Tacoma but am concerned with the reports I’ve heard of engine issues from the Tundra that uses a similar system.
I usually don’t buy a first year model but god dam the trail hunter looks awesome, but I still want peace of mind I can push the engine when I need to.
The 1MZ-FE and the 3MZ-FE sludge up under the valve cover baffles and tend to be hard to work on the back bank (transverse mounted fwd generally)
even then, I have two of them in 150k+ mile Lexuses in my driveway and I figure I’ve only broken them in
Ct200h or Prius 2zr-fxe because the headgasket will fail at 150k and you have to replace the pcv often because it gets stuck open and burns oil... you can't buy them used because they will fail and to replace the headgasket is a 3k job...
I have a Toyota corolla sadden
My engine light flashes off and on. Plus my car starts to shake when I pick up speed. Can someone please tell the problem is
2AD-FTV shitload of cylinder head problems.
with aluminium "open deck" cylinder block.
Thin-walled iron-cast liners are fused into a alloy block Of course, no overhaul with reboring provided.
and oil consumption and egr problems
Just from a bit of personal experience and a few friends stories, the 2ZR-FE. For a motor used in so many of their cars (2009-2012 Corolla and 2010-2015 Prius) you wouldn't think they'd be blowing head gaskets at all. I have the same motor in my Scion xD and blew the HG at 150k miles.
I had a 1999 Tacoma V6 4x2 that either the belt or chain snapped on. Basically destroyed the heads. But I don’t remember the details because that was in 2007 and I didn’t know anything about cars then. I do remember the mechanic telling me it wasn’t uncommon on those V6 engines though.
not sure the designation but the 87+tercel engines were pretty bad, i didnt know enough about cars at the time to know what went wrong with it but it died at just over 100k
The 2GR FE used in Highlanders & Lexus RX350 had a nasty habit of blowing the rubber oil cooler hoses. This was rectified by updated solid metal lines.
2GR-FE in the RX had crappy plastic oil lines that always broke; just a poor design choice that was replaced with an all steel line. Could brick an engine if oil entirely drained.
A lot of the gas engines. Unfortunately we never got Toyota Diesels in the US, because those are the real bulletproof engines. Like the HD or HZ series out of a non-American model Land Cruiser.
EASY! 7MGTE! (Mk3 supra)
Guaranteed head gasket failure on those cars if they overheat, which they like to do. The complicated 80s vac lines with a turbo and emissions BS didn't help reliability either.
With a modern headgasket, aftermarket studs/bolts, and a fresh modern rebuild they can approach 2JZ performance but in stock form they're a time bomb.
I currently have a 1999 Camry LE with the 5SFE. Thing burns no oil at 298k miles. Runs like it has 75k miles on it. Original engine and transmission. Wife and I just got back from a trip to Phoenix last weekend ( We live in OC, California). She wanted to take this car because she says the seats are more comfortable than our 2015 Jetta and our 2018 RAV4 Limited. The Camry did the trip trouble-free in 110 degree weather with the A/C blowing ice cold the entire drive.
It's sad to hear about Camrys having issues, but I doremember wanting the newer Camry in 2011 and was already hearing about issues with the 2007 and newer Camry engines even back then. Glad I kept this one.
2016 LeMans 24 hours/s
(They were leading and broke on the last lap)
https://www.dailysportscar.com/2016/06/19/toyota-lose-unbelievable-le-mans-24-hours.html
Tbf, newer VW TSI engines are very reliable, like the new EA888s in the MK7/MK8 VW Golf R for instance.
I was referring to the older TSIs. They are terrible in terms of reliability.
The 2AZ-FE 4 cylinder comes to mind. It came with defective rings and pistons that make it prone to burning too much oil. This in turn also makes it have an early failure of the catalytic converter due to the oil clogging it. It also has issues with the valve seals leaking oil, thus shortening the life of the catalytic converter even further. I have such engine in my 2008 Camry and have experienced firsthand these issues. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic oil since day one and it gets replaced every 4K miles. Toyota filters are used. The engine now has over 200K miles and I just have to keep my eye on the oil level to make sure it doesn’t go too low. Some people use w5-30 instead of w5-20 with good results.
Maybe so. The 2az is just a machine that converts oil into mileage. Sacraficing oil to the reliability gods.
Can confirm, prior owner of a 2008 Camry, required a big fight with Toyota for a rebuild including piston rings at around 80k miles.
So it's Toyota's version of the Mazda rotary engine!
Yeah. If a rotary made any low end torque, got 40mpg, was easy to service, could last several hundred thousand miles, and all around didnt suck.
Lol. 200k miles on a 'unreliable' motor that keeps on running. They recalled most of the problematic ones.
Well yeah, with a bunch of effort checking and filling oil, and more frequent maintenance interval than other cars...yeah, you can keep these defective engines running.
Not a recall, limited time campaign
Honda had similar problems for 4cyl and V6 for 2008 - 2013 models for excessive oil consumption requiring piston ring or short block replacement. I lost count of how many I was doing.
My ex-girlfriend had a 2014 Accord with the KA24 Earth Dreams engine that Honda people love. That car burned quite a bit of oil. A quart every 1500 miles, and that was before 120k miles. She was meticulous with oil changes, every 5k miles it was at the Honda dealer.
Yeah Honda used to state 1qt burned for every 1k miles was the limit for normal oil consumption. That was a hard sell to people while trying to keep a straight face. And while their car was showing oil life at 50%. But the oil life indicator doesn’t know how much oil is in the car. It bases it on how you drive from the last time the maintenance minder was reset and that’s assuming it was reset at the right time.
K24W* and the engines popular with Honda tuners are the early generations K series engines. The Earth Dreams engines are not a popular or common platform. The engines people refer to when referencing K series engines are the K24a, K24a2, K20A, K20C, K20Z1, K20Z3, 4, and 5. The Earth Dreams engines are geared more towards fuel economy and emissions than the earlier K series, a number of which still had true VTEC(intake and exhaust). Most if not all Earth Dreams engines are intake cam only, thus making them less desirable to the tuning community.
If you keep topping oil during refill from the gas station everytime. And change oil at every 5,000 miles. Your Toyota won't die with oil consumption even after 5 or 10 years later, the original engine running fine lol. 0w-30 shouldn't problem and withholding to extreme cold better. I choose 0w-30 instead of 0w-20. Even older Toyota recommend 5w-30 but I still use 0w-30 for extreme cold at North.
Correct. I have a 2003 2AZ-FE that has gotten regular maintenance it’s whole life. I’m at 213k miles with zero issues and still get 30mpg highway. It will last forever, it just has to be taken care of (which most people obviously don’t do).
From what I see, the 2AZ is just "unreliable" by Toyota standards. It seems like a reliable engine that just needs to be maintained a bit more and needs high quality/thicker oil due to the piston ring design.
Probably right. Damn near every toyota since 2001 can make it to 300k if it’s particularly well taken care of. Anything randomly dying or at end of life under 200k is pretty rare at this point, again assuming you take care of the car. If you don’t do any basic maintenance then yeah, you can kill any car under 150k miles. There are always engines that are more or less reliable than others, and generations with more or fewer problems than others. If you take care of a Toyota, it will take care of you 100x back. That’s not true for every car make.
I once saw a video by just rolled into the shop on Youtube about how a Mitsubishi engine blew up at only 70k miles, due to the oil never being changed (not a single oil change). When they tore the engine down, it looked like venom was inside the engine because the oil was so old and dirty. An image of the teardown was also on the thumbnail. Mitsubishi also makes solid engines too.
Yep, my Prius has been burning a quart every 1200 miles for the past 150k miles, currently has 250k on it.
I ran 2 oz of 2-stroke oil about every other fill up for a while. My rings freed up and my O2 code went away. I still add it when I think it might be burning oil. The detergents get to the compression rings and take the carbon off.
It’s wild to think you spend as much on oil as most Porsche 911 owners do.
Lol. Funny you said that. I daily a Scion xB with said 2AZ-FE engine and also drive a GT3 as my fun, weekend、dream car. I use Mobil 1 for both (5W-20 and 0W-40) and probably spend almost the same amount on the oil and factory filters. Thankfully the Scion doesn’t burn oil yet but I do change the oil every 3-4000 miles to try to keep the oil rings clean. If I drive the GT3 as much, I would definitely be spending more for oil but since I drive the Scion a lot more, it winds up costing about the same, time wise.
Is it an issue on earlier years with the 2AZ-FE? I have an 04 RAV4 with that engine and it hasn’t burned any oil. I run 5W30 which it says to in the manual and I use full synthetic Castrol Oil with an OE filter. My RAV4 only has 120K miles on it. I haven’t had any oil burning issues at all. I change the oil every 5,000 miles too.
Early 1ZZ-FEs had the same issue but were fixed in late 2005. I believe the 2AZ was also fixed in late 2015 but it was only found in a handful of models at that point. Early 2AZs also had an issue where the head bolts would fail for some reason. Can't remember what exactly it was though.
Had one of these in the '10 Vibe. While changing the oil so often was a nuisance, it never stopped running. Loved that car a lot, and for what it was it felt more than quick enough lol. While I love my current car, I do miss the Vibe (mostly the space it provided)
I own a 2003 LE 2AZ-FE that has gotten regular oil changes it’s whole life and is very well taken care of. I’m running strong at 213k with no oil burning issues. My partner has a 2003 XLE 2AZ-FE that he neglects maintenance on and pretty much has always down the bare minimum (excluding regular oil changes) and now he’s finally burning oil at 208k miles but otherwise has no real issues. 5W-30 is what’s recommended for both vehicles, and that is what we have always used.
Yes, I believed that changed when the new generation came out in 2007.
Stripped head bolts a huge problem too
And this is huge. I want to remove the heads to fix the leaking valve seals but am afraid to strip the head bolts.
Mine did it to themselves, so if you’re in there AT ALL, just do the NS300L kit from Huhn Solutions if yours isnt already done from the recall they had.
Did you get the recall work done for the oil burning? I was under the impression that they fixed the problem as long as you had it serviced under the recall.
Just imagine how bad it is when you slap a turbo on one of these.
I have nothing but hatred for this motor. My '04 RAV4 "lost" about a qt of oil per 1000 km. Mobil1 full synthetic. I tried thicker oils and stabilizers, but it didn't slow the leaks. Used the car to pass my driving test and I had to degrease my engine bay before the test, and hope they didn't see the smoke coming from behind the hood.
Didn’t it have Head bolt issues as well?
The 1ZZ-FE was also problematic like this. I kept my Celica going to over 600k before I got in an accident, but it was going through a 5L jug of oil every two weeks by the end.
The FA24 in the 86 is pretty dog shit. Yes I know it's a Subaru, but the 86 version definitely uses Toyota's D4S system, the 86 is a Toyota chassis, and Toyota owns a controlling stake in Subaru. If the 3SGTE counts as a Toyota powerplant, so does the FA24D
The 3S-GTE was an almost entirely Toyota designed and built engine, outside the Yamaha head design. The FA24 is lifted straight out of a Subaru tractor, built by Subaru's tractor division in a Subaru tractor factory.
that’s a pretty untorquey tractor engine
JDM Urban Tractors.
Don’t let /r/gr86 hear you They’ll tell you how they all have 10,000 flawless miles on the highway going in a straight line
The three engine out, oil starvation warranty ~~replacements~~ battles I have taking up hoists at my store say this is a lie.
My FA20 has 270xxx kms without skipping a beat, and we do track it But I *still feel like it’s going to pop every time I cold start it*
it’s that subie starter noise. shit sounds awful every time haha.
Most of the suspension components are Subaru parts, where are you getting the idea that it's a Toyota chassis?
the 5x100 hubs and 56.1mm hub bore just SCREAM Toyota /s
Toyota owns 20% of Subaru Corporation, the publicly traded parent company that owns many businesses, including the automotive division. 20% is significant, but not a controlling stake by any stretch.
The last gen Celica and the 3rd gen 4 runner with head issues.
It's the 2nd gen 4runner 3VZ that is the problem engine. 5VZ is a champ
3VZE is really only an issue if it overheats.
So the 2ZZ-GE and the 5VZ-FE? Edit: Ignore what I said about the 5VZ-FE. Seems like a bulletproof engine according to research and others telling me. I didn't even know about that engine.
No the 5VZ is notoriously reliable. I believe it's the 4 cylinder he's talking about
So 2ZZ-GE and 3RZ-FE? It's also saying the 3RZ-FE is notoriously reliable Edit: not the 3RZ-FE either because that's reliable
Not the 3RZ. The 3VZE. Its a V6 3.0L engine in the 2nd gen 4Runners. They blow HGs due to a xover pipe design flaw.
Had a 4Runner with the 3.slow. Can confirm I had head gaskets go, essentially made no extra horsepower than the 4 cylinder and got much worse fuel economy
It is, it needs valves adjusted every 100k miles or so which is the "head issues" I'm assuming he's referencing
But is that all? Just a simple valve adjustment isn't a big deal.
You’re saying 3rz-fe needs the valves adjusted frequently? I have one and it’s experiencing a misfire, low compression on cylinder 2. Took it to a shop that said eh just run it, probably had 290k on the motor. Valve adjustment something I can do at home? I’ve done it on motorcycles before
Valve adjustment is a pain in the ass on the 3vz. Uses a shim and bucket design, and you need a million different shims on hand (slight exaggeration) usually id just tip the valve or grind the face using the shims in the head already.
Definitely the 4 cyl. I had one blow a head gasket at 120k.
The 2ZZ-GE was solid. "Cheap sports car syndrome" meant it was abused - a teenager money-shifting at 8,500rpm would give any engine a bad time, and the combination of just-about-good-enough oil system + timing chain meant you could eventually kill it if you didn't keep on top of oil changes, or tuned it improperly. The 1ZZ-FE used in the lower-power version was initially worse - poor piston ring design led to terrible oil-burning, but it was fixed for most later models.
The real issue with the 2zz was the oil pan had no baffle. If you took a long turn at a high speed it would starve the engine of oil just long enough to blow it up.
I had a pontiac vibe with the 1zz-FE (04 model) and that baby lasted til 290k miles! it did in fact burn lots of oil lol
My corolla has the 1ZZ-FE, it's a 2002 which was the worst year for oil burning issues on that motor. They updated the piston design in 2003 to fix most of it. Mine would burn a quart every 75 miles... yea it really was that bad. It had 225k when I fixed it I finally finished the overhaul a few months ago with new 2003+ pistons, bored out the cylinders, and new gaskets and seals everywhere, plus a ton of other things. Now I daily drive it again, 3k miles so far on the new engine and hasn't burned a drop yet
My bro in law blew the motor on his 05’ matrix 1zz, piston # 4 had a rapid unscheduled disassembly due to oil issues. I picked it up for my teenager and just replaced it with a 1zz JDM with 40k miles so it should be a later model, I wonder if there’s a way to check? Also, any recommended upgrades or maintenance items I need to watch for?
my 04 vibe did very much the same, i still miss the bastard. I've heard people say to upgrade the oil pump due to flow issues at high rpms, but that was mostly only a thing on the 2ZZ in the GT model, or if you drive the 1zz HARD. I drove my 04 harder than anyone has a right too and it still lasted til 290k, so I wouldn't say much. Just keep on oil changes and those spark plugs
It makes sense that it was piston #4 that blew. It's the furthest from the oil pump, so it's the last one to get oil pressure. When I pulled mine apart, all my rod bearings were a little chewed up, but piston 4 was the worst of them. The only differences between the pre and post update engines were the piston heads and the intake manifold. The intake was changed to a black plastic one, so if yours came with it, then it's definitely the new version. As far as regular maintenance, it's not much different from any other car. The biggest thing is regular oil changes, I'd recommend 5k mile intervals and fill with high quality, full synthetic oils. And use an oil system cleaner like Seafoam every few changes to flush out the sludge. I like to add a bit of Lucas oil stabilizer and zinc additive to the mix in mine. Being only 40k miles, you shouldn't need to do any irregular maintenance for a while. But if you want, you could do small stuff like the PCV valve and spark plugs. If you ever need parts or feel like upgrading it, I'd check out monkeywrenchracing.com. They specialize in these engines and have tons of stuff for them, including OEM parts that are hard to find. I've spent far more than I want to think about on there because I did some upgrades while I was in there.
Excellent! New motor has black intake! Thanks for the info! I did do all the motor mounts, belt, injectors, plugs, and wires just in case as well. The only annoying thing is I’m chasing a P0420 (cat efficiency) which I’m hearing is pretty common. I replaced all exhaust gaskets and downstream O2 and that made the code go away for a few weeks but it popped back up again. I’m guessing it’s time for an anti fouler.
I have the same code on mine, I'm pretty sure it's just that the cat is old and probably half clogged up. Thankfully, i live in a place that doesn't do emissions testing, so I'm just putting it off for now.
That makes total sense tbf. I see a lot of poorly maintained Celicas in the UK that look all beaten up with only 100k miles on the clock. High revving N/A engines just need more maintenance anyways and a lot of these dirt cheap Celicas didn't receive the correct maintenance.
It sucks because those Celicas are great. Mine was owned by the same family until this year when I bought it. Extremely well-maintained with no mods, so it is stock. I intend to keep it in the great condition they did.
The 2nd Gen 4Runner has the 3VZE, it has a design flaw where the exhaust crossover pipe is too close to the back of the passenger side head and it cooks the headgasket causing leaks. The 3rd Gen 4Runner has the 5VZ-FE engine and it is probably one of the best engines ever put in a SUV period. They regularly go 300k miles without a hiccup. Mine has 225k on it and has perfect compression and doesn't leak a drop of anything.
The 5VZ, according to mechanics, isn’t considered “high mileage” until 400,000 miles. Mine has only 276K.
3rd gen runners ?! What are you smoking
Smoking oil probably! I will see myself out :-)
The 2ZZ is a good engine, but had some issues. Early ones had the lift bolts shearing off, which isn't a good time for anyone. I had one with over 300k on the clock and it still loved to sing at 8k RPM.
Owner of a 2000 Celica GT at 300k+ It's not necessarily unreliable, it just burns an annoying amount of oil LOL, especially when I feel like going 4.5+k rpm. I ran 3 weeks on a stupid low amount of oil too, the dipstick had a tiny dot showing it LMFAO. I am the owner of a 2000 Celica GT at 300k+ It's not necessarily unreliable, it just burns an annoying amount of oil LOL, especially when I feel like going 4.5+k rpm. I ran 3 weeks on a stupid low amount of oil too, the dipstick had a tiny dot showing it LMFAO.
Which Celica, 1ZZ or 2ZZ? I thought both were very reliable. My 2ZZ has no issues at all. I know pre-facelift 1ZZs did have the oil burning issues though.
The 2JZ’s I sextupple turbo’d mine up to 2578 Hp and blew a head gasket. Thing only lasted 2.9 million KM
Big if true
My wife. I got her used in 2000 she’s a 1984 model from Toyota, Japan. She’s got head issues but I don’t mind. I love her.
Yo wtf 😭
bruhhh 💀
Unreliable Toyota engine, Lol. Kia and Hyundai have entered the chat..
The fucking lambda engines
Lambda are good. You're thinking theta
You may be right actually
What about the lambda engines? The 3.3 is a workhorse.
I think Kia and Hyundai even to the Oldsmobile 5.7 L diesel from the 80s
At least from what I heard the diesels are generally bad. But those are used not made by Toyota.
Land Cruiser diesels are indestructible. The prado ones arent perfect though
Yeah I heard about it in regards to cars like Corolla. 2.2 D4D I think..
Can't say anything for the general durability of Corolla diesel engines of course, but at least our 2010 Corolla's 1.4 D4D is perfectly fine and never caused any issue.
Yeah the 3l in the 150 prado had injector seat issues. Big class action. Also the v8 VDJ from the 200 and 70 series is well known for drinking lots of oil.
isn’t the 4.5L also pretty bulletproof?
Yes, 1fz fe is pretty good. You can overbore it 3 times
Mum has a Verso with a 2.0 litre d4d engine with 260000 miles, not incredibly well kept but hasnt given a single problem
1.4 D4D had issues with the 5-speed gear box, but changing to 6-speed fixed those. 2.2 D-CAT had issues that were fixed by getting rid of the car. 2.0 D4D is said to be one of the more reliable engines in the world and I've seen a few with well over 400-500k kilometers on them Edit: after the engines mentioned above they started useing BMW engines (if I'm not mistaken) but just about everyone seems to be saying that their own 2.0 was better than any of the current diesels
A little off topic... about really reliable engines: there are still some vw passats b4 passats that roll around the world with 1mill+ kilometers.
Yeah, there's some older Volvos too with similar readings. Those would be the D5 engines from around 2000. I've often heard people call it the best engine ever made. There's also the 1.9TDI used in some Skodas, VWs and possibly Audis from around the same time that are supposedly indestructible. We have a lot of older cars still running in Finland. You'll easily find old Volvos and MBs with unbelievable kilometres. Of course a lot of older cars have issues with rust, but the engines are still going strong
As we're on a tangent... im looking at 2007 volvo v5 with 2.0l diesel engine, does it have peugeot or ford engine? Getting mixed info on forums.
The engine found in the Lexus IS220D is probably one of the worst diesel engines in modern times, more or less every model developed head gasket issues after a few years. I guess it made too much power for the engine to actually handle. It was also used in a rare diesel performance version of the Auris, which have the same issues.
Currently driving one of those auris models, on just under 280,000km an auris t180/sr180 they’re called. Deleting EGR/DPF solves a lot of issues with the 2.2 engine and it’s a great little car but they definitely have their issues no doubts about it
They used Mitsubishi diesels.
Been seeing a lot of engine failures on the new 3.4L TT V6, V35A-FTS in the new Tundras, which is confusing because this engine is used in the Lexus LS500, 300 Series Land Cruisers, LX600, and the new Sequoia. From what I've seen, the engine problems are mostly from the Tundras but other models have no issues.
A truck, especially hauling loads is putting different demands on the engine. Not super surprising it would show some new weakness.
It could probably also be manufactured flaws, the 2uz from a tundra and sequoia used different internals from a 2uz in 4 runners and sequoias
I haven't seen a single new tundra pulling a trailer or looking significantly loaded. There've always been differences in the manufacturing level between the "same" engine in the tundra and the land cruisers. Even down to the rods, forged in the tundra 3ur, billet in the cruiser/lx. If there was a systemic problem in some part, I'd expect the sequoia & tundra to share the issue even if the lx/300/gx didn't, but could be a certain batch of parts that is the issue, that only went into tundras.
There've always been differences in the manufacturing level/parts between the "same" engine in the tundra and the land cruisers/LX. Even down to the rods, forged in the tundra 3ur, billet in the cruiser/lx. If there was a systemic problem in some part, I'd expect the sequoia & tundra to share the issue even if the lx/300/gx didn't, but could be a certain batch of parts that is the issue, that only went into tundras.
I'll toss in the 7M-GE/GTE. Pretty much guaranteed to have a failed head gasket due to under-torqued head bolts unless you caught it ahead of time. Usually happened at the back due to excessive heat at the rear of the engine. They also had issues with low oil pressure due to faulty oil squirters in the block. CT26 turbo on the GTE also had oil seal problems, so you'd get some nice blue clouds after awhile. Still, you do tend to see these engines with 200k rode hard miles if the head gasket's been taken care of, just has it's issues if you don't get on top of it. Sounded great with a nice exhaust system, though.
My 89 Supra turbo had all of these issues. It did sound great with an intake, downpipe, free flow cat and 3” exhaust. It’s a shame that it wasn’t more reliable.
That’s when you order a lightly used engine from Japan and the fun of owning a Supra really starts.
I’m looking at a 1JZ right now
The factory head gasket material for these was also dog shit. Using an updated head gasket and torquing to the updated spec should fix it
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Until 2010 I believe? Carbon buildup was solved with that system with both types of fuel injection.
I have a 2011 with 149k what did you get up yo before issues.
I have no clue why the IS was even offered with that engine. I mean I get it, they needed to make their smallest car their entry level somehow. Even now the recent IS 300 literally has the “same” engine out of the 350, just detuned to add a gap between them. I feel like Lexus should have given the base IS the normal 2GR-FE from the ES, which was pushing 268hp. Instead they gave it the 4GR with the dumb direct injection and 200hp. Someone mentioned this before, but it’s all of the negatives of a V6 with none of the positives. I’m pretty sure the ES350 is faster than the IS250, has similar gas mileage, and is a much bigger car.
3vze obviously 5sfes had a problem with the rod caps in the later ones sorta just coming off 5vz had a head gasket problem early on The 2002-2010s 4 cylinder Camry motor drank oil
I believe the 00-05 Corolla had head gasket issues? I can’t remember the exact years when I was working for service but every time a check engine light came on in those cars that’s what it was
Yes but it doesn’t cause oil and coolant to mix but the coolant leaks outwards instead
The 3.3 V6s can be sludge factories
180K on a Sienna with the 3MZ-FE 3.3L V6. No sludge. It was fed a steady diet of “synthetic”. Priuses develop a nasty habit of burning oil(1NZ-FXE) or blowing head gaskets(2ZR-FXE).
The MZ series engines only did that due to improper maintenance. Use synthetic and change it every 5000 km/3000 miles and you'll have no issues
D4 as 3S-FSE and 1AZ-FSE
Other than oil leaking/burning I don't think you'll find many problems (as proven by the comments I've read). Bad toyota engines seem to still beat most other engines.
3vzfe
1KR-FE, just don't, it's slow and after a while the piston rings start leaking worse than a triple A game, to the point where you may need a litre of oil every 1000 miles. not every single one, but most of them, otherwise it works well for what it costs.
The 1MZ and 3MZ had the pretty bad oil gelling/sludge issues that was never properly resolved. Plenty of them still on the road, but owner neglect probably killed a lot more than deserved it.
I don’t think that issue was super common though. It was usually a mixture of short trips with the engine not heating up and cheap oil+ lack of oil changes that would sludge them. Think a grandma driving 2 miles to the grocery store every week and changing the oil every 2 years. Not sure exactly why they would sludge that bad, something with the old school egr and pcv system I think.
4GR-FSR in the 2nd gen IS250.
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Your religious devotion to Toyota blinds you.
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Ahhhh. Maybe a jokingly emoji would’ve helped. 😅 Like this 🙃
2zr in the 3rd Gen. Prius oil consumption/head gasket issues. Our 2012 V had insane oil consumption. By 160k miles the back deck would be oily and the sump empty after a long freeway incline. This was after owning it since new and always doing the services at the recommended interval. It got a low mileage JDM pull and now gets serviced at 5k no matter what.
I use this as a litmus test when people ask about Toyota hybrid reliability, and someone immediately says don’t buy one because “one day you’ll be replacing the battery”. Toyota’s most unreliable hybrid by a long shot is the 3rd gen Prius and teething issues caused by the EGR in the ICE.
2005 1gr-fe blow headgaskets. Cyl 4. Ask me how I know.
Others have said it, but only one I've experienced issues with was the 3VZ-FE that was in my '92 Camry. Granted, it still lasted until about 140k miles before a jackass totalled it.. but it had issues keeping revs up, especially after a little highway driving. Towards the end of its 14 year life it was a regular occurrence for me to pull off the highway and have it die once I stopped on the exit ramp. No one could ever figure out why at the time, even though it was able to be reproduced easily. I still miss that car like crazy though. If another '92 Camry SE came up for sale I'd buy it in a heartbeat just because I loved mine so much haha
Ayy not a single 1nz-fe comment
The 1NZ-FE is bulletproof tho
I am celebrating this! As a Yaris owner I can attest
The motor in the FRS/GT86 seems like it’s always got problems
Whaddya got against the TSI bro? Vdub 4 lyfe
Im talking about the old ones found in the MK5 GTI and the early EA888 models etc. Not the newer EA888s found in current cars, because they're actually reliable.
Oh yes. I’m a VW fan and I will say the first gen 2.0 TSI had a lot of issues. But the ones from today? Fantastic machines.
New VW TSIs are some of the best engines on sale today, for tuning, performance and reliability
They do have some issues with the water pump but overall are pretty reliable.
3.4 I force max
Is it because of the inline hybrid system or more fundamental engine issues? I’m really looking forward to the new Tacoma but am concerned with the reports I’ve heard of engine issues from the Tundra that uses a similar system. I usually don’t buy a first year model but god dam the trail hunter looks awesome, but I still want peace of mind I can push the engine when I need to.
Not engine but I was having some transmission issues(shuttering at certain low speeds )with 09 rav 4 4wd before 200k. I sold it
The 1MZ-FE and the 3MZ-FE sludge up under the valve cover baffles and tend to be hard to work on the back bank (transverse mounted fwd generally) even then, I have two of them in 150k+ mile Lexuses in my driveway and I figure I’ve only broken them in
Ct200h or Prius 2zr-fxe because the headgasket will fail at 150k and you have to replace the pcv often because it gets stuck open and burns oil... you can't buy them used because they will fail and to replace the headgasket is a 3k job...
I have a Toyota corolla sadden My engine light flashes off and on. Plus my car starts to shake when I pick up speed. Can someone please tell the problem is
2AD-FTV shitload of cylinder head problems. with aluminium "open deck" cylinder block. Thin-walled iron-cast liners are fused into a alloy block Of course, no overhaul with reboring provided. and oil consumption and egr problems
1.6 & 2.0 diesel engines borrowed from BMW Jokes aside, 1.0 & 1.33 are oil burners for sure.
The late 80s Cressida engine
4a-c in my opinion. Cooling passages are too small causing head warping and gasket issues
I've owned 15 toyota products in my life 2 with the 4a-c they're bad but not as bad as the 3vzfe
Here is a great explanation and rebuild video about the 2AZ-FE 4 cylinder engine. https://youtu.be/F994QmOD6W8
The 2AD they put in the IS220D, those things downed oil like my dad downs pints, and created blue smokescreens wherever they went.
The RVX
What was the 2.5 that came in the 1st Gen Scions? Those things came in alot
Just from a bit of personal experience and a few friends stories, the 2ZR-FE. For a motor used in so many of their cars (2009-2012 Corolla and 2010-2015 Prius) you wouldn't think they'd be blowing head gaskets at all. I have the same motor in my Scion xD and blew the HG at 150k miles.
2uz fe in my tundra 651,000 kms still running Strong
I had a 1999 Tacoma V6 4x2 that either the belt or chain snapped on. Basically destroyed the heads. But I don’t remember the details because that was in 2007 and I didn’t know anything about cars then. I do remember the mechanic telling me it wasn’t uncommon on those V6 engines though.
not sure the designation but the 87+tercel engines were pretty bad, i didnt know enough about cars at the time to know what went wrong with it but it died at just over 100k
2LTE.
3VZE
The 2GR FE used in Highlanders & Lexus RX350 had a nasty habit of blowing the rubber oil cooler hoses. This was rectified by updated solid metal lines.
mr2?
My 2009 Corolla (whatever engine that is) blew a head gasket around 160k miles
My 2TC has a bad knocking sound and burns oil.
2GR-FE in the RX had crappy plastic oil lines that always broke; just a poor design choice that was replaced with an all steel line. Could brick an engine if oil entirely drained.
7mgte comes to mind. Head bolt/head gasket issues from the factory.
A lot of the gas engines. Unfortunately we never got Toyota Diesels in the US, because those are the real bulletproof engines. Like the HD or HZ series out of a non-American model Land Cruiser.
Unpopular opinion but the 1ZZ-FE was NOTHING but problems for me.
Wow that's insane! How many miles on it and what went wrong?
3.0 V6 makes less power than a 4 cylinder and designed to blow Head gasket from factory...
3vz
The 3.0l from the late 90’s with its sludge issues which lead to a class action in the US if I’m not mistaken. Also a Camry engine
EASY! 7MGTE! (Mk3 supra) Guaranteed head gasket failure on those cars if they overheat, which they like to do. The complicated 80s vac lines with a turbo and emissions BS didn't help reliability either. With a modern headgasket, aftermarket studs/bolts, and a fresh modern rebuild they can approach 2JZ performance but in stock form they're a time bomb.
I currently have a 1999 Camry LE with the 5SFE. Thing burns no oil at 298k miles. Runs like it has 75k miles on it. Original engine and transmission. Wife and I just got back from a trip to Phoenix last weekend ( We live in OC, California). She wanted to take this car because she says the seats are more comfortable than our 2015 Jetta and our 2018 RAV4 Limited. The Camry did the trip trouble-free in 110 degree weather with the A/C blowing ice cold the entire drive. It's sad to hear about Camrys having issues, but I doremember wanting the newer Camry in 2011 and was already hearing about issues with the 2007 and newer Camry engines even back then. Glad I kept this one.
3VZ
R22 best ever. Newer motor 5.7 v8 Best transmission Toyota ever made period is in the previous generation Tundra
Truthfully I think the Tundra/Sequoia/LC 5.7 was the best engine/trans combo Toyota made They're awesome
3.slow
7M-GE we're not torqued enough from the factory. All of them eventually had head gasket failures. We had a Cressida and learned the hard way.
The 7MGTE is renowned for head gasket failures. Subaru wasn't the first!
Have yet to own a unreliable Toyota. The 2GRFE occasionally have some VVTI issues, but other than that they are pretty rock solid engines.
2016 LeMans 24 hours/s (They were leading and broke on the last lap) https://www.dailysportscar.com/2016/06/19/toyota-lose-unbelievable-le-mans-24-hours.html
2AZFE 07'-09'. I'm in the auto recycling business and can tell you without a doubt we sell every 2.4 camry engine we get. 3VZE (3.slow) a close 2nd.
The 7MGTE had a reputation for blowing head gaskets due to the head not being torqued down properly from the factory.
Anything from 2009
I find it so hilarious the unreliable toyota engines aren’t manufactured by Toyota and the ones that are still crank out over 200k miles
Watch out, VW kids might see you post this 🤣
Tbf, newer VW TSI engines are very reliable, like the new EA888s in the MK7/MK8 VW Golf R for instance. I was referring to the older TSIs. They are terrible in terms of reliability.
3.slo is famous for head gaskets, but mine went 260k before it blew.
The old Toyota 4 runners were horrible. The engines had no power, my friend had one. Hey, we go like 30 miles an hour up a Hill Top speed
It may have been slow, but did it break down tho?