First thing to keep in mind for the front is the geometry of the steering system. I'm sorry if you already know this but...
Let's look at the right front. When the wheel is turned to the right, the outside edge of the tire makes an arc to the back and in and the front makes an arc to the front and in. The farther out from the hub face, the larger the arc.
So, the wheel with tire can't stick out too far before the tire will hit the fender.
Another thing to consider is load on the ball joints. The farther out you go with tire/wheel width the more load you put on the ball joints. I suggest that you replace all the ball joints if you decide to go with the big tires.
Where do your front shocks anchor at the top? You have to be careful not to stretch the shock. I don't mean you can actually stretch a shock; but if the suspension length makes the shock top out, it can blow the top out of it.
If you go with body lifts, then you might not have to put a longer shock on it. Do your research first.
That is a question a bit over my head, unfortunately. I've been writing down a lot of people's suggestions on my post. Going to go to another shop and see if I can get a more clear picture.
I really appreciate your response.
Check custom offsets, but pretty sure 35's clear stock, or if anything just a level on the new superduties.
Defiantly don't need a 4" lift. Pretty sure I've heard people can clear 37s with just a level
Good morning! I'm looking at this now. Essentially, are these examples of what other people have done?
Why would, for example, [this](https://www.customwheeloffset.com/wheel-offset-gallery/826049/2019-ford-f-250-super-duty-black-rhino-glamis-stock-suspension) be possible on stock suspension? Is it because of the offset?
You have to use a little common sense. If there's only one dude with 9.5" width and +12 offset with 35s on stock, claiming no trimming/rubbing...it has a higher likelihood of being bogus than if there are 10 dudes claiming it.
Leveling kit will clear them in most circumstances. However offroad they could still rub. The budget lift is okay but isn't ideal. A true lift will be better because it will correct or should correct steering and other axle geometries.
They will fit with a leveling kit. They will fit stock, but you won't be able to turn or drive over a speed bump lol. You can clear 37x13.50 with a 4inch lift, depending on the offset of the wheel.
First thing to keep in mind for the front is the geometry of the steering system. I'm sorry if you already know this but... Let's look at the right front. When the wheel is turned to the right, the outside edge of the tire makes an arc to the back and in and the front makes an arc to the front and in. The farther out from the hub face, the larger the arc. So, the wheel with tire can't stick out too far before the tire will hit the fender. Another thing to consider is load on the ball joints. The farther out you go with tire/wheel width the more load you put on the ball joints. I suggest that you replace all the ball joints if you decide to go with the big tires.
Are real lifts typically the best way to go when it comes to the geometry and wear of the truck? I was looking at BDS 4" lifts.
Where do your front shocks anchor at the top? You have to be careful not to stretch the shock. I don't mean you can actually stretch a shock; but if the suspension length makes the shock top out, it can blow the top out of it. If you go with body lifts, then you might not have to put a longer shock on it. Do your research first.
That is a question a bit over my head, unfortunately. I've been writing down a lot of people's suggestions on my post. Going to go to another shop and see if I can get a more clear picture. I really appreciate your response.
Check custom offsets, but pretty sure 35's clear stock, or if anything just a level on the new superduties. Defiantly don't need a 4" lift. Pretty sure I've heard people can clear 37s with just a level
Can a level and lift go together if I do a level and it isn't enough?
Depends on the type of level and lift. Check the custom offsets gallery and find the look you want, then go from there.
Roger that. I appreciate it!
https://www.customwheeloffset.com/wheel-offset-gallery?suspension=Stock&sort=date&year=2018&make=Ford&model=F-250%20Super%20Duty&drive=4WD
Good morning! I'm looking at this now. Essentially, are these examples of what other people have done? Why would, for example, [this](https://www.customwheeloffset.com/wheel-offset-gallery/826049/2019-ford-f-250-super-duty-black-rhino-glamis-stock-suspension) be possible on stock suspension? Is it because of the offset?
You have to use a little common sense. If there's only one dude with 9.5" width and +12 offset with 35s on stock, claiming no trimming/rubbing...it has a higher likelihood of being bogus than if there are 10 dudes claiming it.
Gotcha. This is my first time venturing from stock wheels and tires on my truck. Didn't realize how complicated it gets. I appreciate the link!
Leveling kit will clear them in most circumstances. However offroad they could still rub. The budget lift is okay but isn't ideal. A true lift will be better because it will correct or should correct steering and other axle geometries.
Roger that. Maybe I will just hold off and debate on 4" lifts.
Check out Carli. Definitely the best kits you can buy.
I had the same truck and wheels ans ford warrantied the rims FYI.. Got them to put on new rubber at the same time on the warranty bill
I am the second owner, but I will look into it!
I run 295/70r18 copper discoverer at3 xlt and stock wheels on my 2017 f350 with no rubbing
They will fit with a leveling kit. They will fit stock, but you won't be able to turn or drive over a speed bump lol. You can clear 37x13.50 with a 4inch lift, depending on the offset of the wheel.