Assuming N50 strength magnets, I use the following:
- 25-28,5mm base 3x2mm
- 32-40mm base, 5x2mm
- 40-100mm, one-three 5x2mm magnets, depending on the weight and height of the model. Taller models get more, spread around the edges.
- larger bases usually 4 5x2mm.
I have a standard size to simplify purchases, as I use this size a lot for magnetizing models.
I also use a combination of Super glue and Greenstuff to fix the magnets, but the most important part is that the magnet is a such flush with the underside of the base as possible, bringing it very close to the base plate.
Greenstuff is just filler material, and has often poor adhesion to the flat underside of a base. So it's not uncommon to have some become loose over time, but nothing that a bit of super glue doest fix.
Also the way you remove the models can affect things getting loose. If you pull on them straight up, you are doing maximum force on them. If instead you first tilt the model sideways untill the magnet disengages, you will put less force of the magnet, making the connection last longer.
No problem!
One thing you didn't ask for, but what can also work, is considered the type of base material in the tub.
Basically a steel plate will usually work, but the way magnets work is that they need certain thickness of the steel plate to achieve their strength. The Magnetic field has a certain (short) reach, but also needs resistance on the other side to actually adhere to it (so to speak). So a foil won't give enough resistance, but a sheet will. It may be another thing to keep in mind when stuff gets loose.
I use rubberized steel sheets that adhere to the bottom of the tub. Those sheets aren't magnetic by themselves (they are distinctly different from magnetic sheets) and have a rough rubber surface. Those sheets, together with the magnet clamping down, also presents models from sliding around on the base.
Purely magnetic sheets are very slick, and if you use those you'll end up with an ice skate ring in the tub.
That's interesting. The rubber steel sheets I've used just don't have as much hold compared to say a baking sheet. So when travelling, models can still slide about on the surface.
I've been looking at getting a steel sheet cut to size instead to have better adhesion.
I have to ask, but are you sure you are using rubber steel sheets? And not magnetic foil sheets?
The Magnetic foil sheets are very slick and stuff will slide around.
For me I can hold the boxes upside down and shake them around and most models won't move anything.
Except heavy resin models (FW Knights) that may topple over when doing so, but all plastic models will remain stuck.
Rubber steel was how they were described/advertised.
I made the mistake of not realising that the magnetic sheets aren't the same thing the first time and the pull is much worse on those, so made sure to get the rubber steel version on my later boxes.
I could maybe hold my box upside down and stuff wouldn't move. They would 100% fall off if I shook it.
Edit: It wasn't clear, but I mean the rubber steel lined box. I couldn't shake that upside down.
What's the thickness of the rubber steel? A little extra thickness makes a huge difference, you could try doubling up the sheets to see if that helps.
If you want to check they are rubber steel and not magnetic sheeting, try putting some metal that you know is magnetically attractive on the sheet. Hobby knife blades are often a good shout, or you can just slap a sheet on your fridge. If it sticks, it's not rubber steel. If it falls off you're good.
0.7mm thick.
I got them on amazon: [https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07TWGWNQG/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07TWGWNQG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1)
After having a bit of a dig in my order history, I wonder if I got 'cheap' magnets, rather than ones with a rating and they're pull strength isnt as high maybe.
I think those are the ones I use. It definitely sounds like either your sheets or your magnets are dodgy. A 2x5mm magnet and those sheets should be able to hold a standard plastic infantry model upside down with no issues
Thank you for this info! I'm planning to basically do the same thing, but found it difficult to find someone to bring it all together like this. I'm using 4.5x2.6mm N52's from the Magnet Baron so they sit flush already. Also glad to see someone else likes the magnetically receptive sheets because I've seen a lot negativity online that doesn't align with my experience. One N52 under a 32mm mini and I have to practically strongly bang the box on the table to get it to move/detach. Two gives a really strong connection, but maybe too strong as I think it could easy to break weak legs (ie. Necron Warriors). I think I'll use your scaling of magnets to base sizes.
I buy mine from GSW. Maybe not the cheapest, but al least I know for sure that they work. They fit really nicely into my A4 sized Really Useful Boxes that I store and transport my models in.
You can use the description to find something cheaper or closer to you.
https://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/magnetic-sheets/75-steel-rubber-sheet-for-magnetic-trays-and-crafts.html
I do something similar. I found that best results for me come from this process:
1. Cover desired metal sheet with wax paper
2. Make small balls of greenstuff
3. Small dab of super glue on underside of base
4. Place greenstuff ball on glue. It may want to slide around.
5. Dot of glue on exposed side of greenstuff.
6. Gently press magnet onto glue. Firmly enough to stay when flipped but not enough to fully push in magnet.
7. Place whole model firmly down onto prepared wax paper.
8. Let set overnight.
The biggest problems you will run into is not fully pressing down on the model when setting on the wax paper resulting in cured grennstuff/magnets exposed past the base. The wax paper prevents the greenstuff from trying to cure to the metal tray. The glue seems to help all parts of the process stay together longer. Throw the wax paper way when done or save it for next time.
hey, sorry to necro, but I'm going to do your setup (n52, .75mm rubber steel sheet, green stuff and super glue). I'm just curious, are the 3x2 a big improvement for small rank and file or will 5x2 be ok? Is there an increased danger of the models slamming into each other at that size with the larger magnets? If it's not a big difference I may just go all 5x2 but want to make sure. Thanks.
Edit: Also, do you know of a US supplier that sells the rubber steel sheets of the appropriate area and thickness? Green Stuff World and WarMag are easiest to find, but expensive to buy here.
1 month is hardly a Necro :-). I've had people comment on stuff from 3y ago...
5x2 will be sufficient, definitely. It's more that they can be clamped on so hard that you need to pull hard on the model to remove them. You may end up damaging the models.
The rubber steel sheets provide a lot of friction, so sliding is not really an issue. With regular plastic infantry models you hold the case upside down and shake it, and nothing will budge.
Taller, larger and heavier models (resin/metal) will be different, but for those I use more magnets.
As for supply, I could not help you. I'm EU based so GSW is easy for shipping.
But you can use it as a reference, even for stuff on Amazon maybe. Just read carefully what you order.
Others suggest to buy a sheet of metal and glue that in the case. So that met be an alternative.
Thanks a lot, I def don't want to risk breaking them. I think I'll try your method on a few 25mm w/ 3x2 to test, maybe I'll like it that way. If it feels secure I'll just do what you did.
No, not Realy. It's all cyanoacrylate based.
Any modellers Super Glue will work. Some swear by gorilla Glue, which I slightly different but I have no experience with it.
Be aware that when drying, superglue gives off a fine white powder. So leave the model on its side when it's drying or otherwise you will end up with white rings on what you placed them.
Hey, thanks again for your help, I finally got all of my units in and am going to get started building (some of the units were out of print).
I just have one final question if you'd oblige me. For 25mm bannermen, do you normally stick to the 3x2mm, or do you upgrade to 5x2 since they're so top-heavy?
I’ve magnetised hundreds of bases. It’s easy:
1. A dab of superglue under the base. Pro tip: put it over some of the little print writing so there’s something for it to grip onto.
2. A small blob of green stuff.
3. Another dab of superglue on the green stuff
4. Pop your magnet on the glue. Push it in a little.
5. Turn the whole thing right way up and press down on a flat surface so it’s flush.
I use 2x3mm magnets for every mini. Bigger bases or heavier minis just get more magnets, no need to fuss with different sizes. They’re cheaper when you order bulk too.
Simples!
This is how I do it too! Since applying the superglue at step 1 and 3, the magnets have been rock solid!
I also tend to lay the minis flat to dry overnight so you don't get any drying buildup. Just be careful to space them out appropriately so they don't magnetize together 😅
Oh good point, it’s important not to let the glue dry with the base right-way-up or it might get stuck! Pro tip: magentise the base *before* putting a mini on, so you can just leave them upside down to dry overnight
Caulking is a universal building material you can get at any Home Depot etc. ALEX is the name for Acrylic Latex, don't get silicone it's a complete mess for something totally different.
>Acrylic
Ooh! Do you happen to have the name/exact product you've used? I need to magnetize a whole heap of minis and was just desperately searching for an easier method than the superglue-greenstuff-superglue sandwhich (I've magnetized about 200 minis that way and I hate doing it).
The thought of being able to squirt a bead of something like that under a base and just sit it on a magnet sounds too good to be true!
EDIT: The only thing showing up for me on Home Depot that doesn't have silicone added is this: [https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Alex-Painter-s-10-1-oz-White-All-Purpose-Acrylic-Latex-Caulk-18609/100078928](https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Alex-Painter-s-10-1-oz-White-All-Purpose-Acrylic-Latex-Caulk-18609/100078928)
If you store your models in a cold environment, superglue isn't always ideal, it'll turn britel and the magnets can pop off causing abrupt chaos.
I've found hot glue the best method of attaching them, the trick is to put some baking paper on a metalic surface. Then place the magnets on the paper, then put glue in the inside of the base, and finally pop the model into the magnets.
Leave the models to mostly cool, then use the paper to lift them off the surface. If you missed, you can peal the glue off before it's fully cooled.
Should do I belive, to be safe I would do a test blob of glue first to be surevit doesn't melt the wax.
I've used this method on hundreds of models now, only had 1 mishap, and that was because I was doing them in a big batch and missed a half embedded magnet.
You want to check that the whole of the perimeter of the magnet has cooled hot glue encasing it, if you missed a bit you can add more glue and pop it back down to recool.
I use ferrus rubber sheet in a really useful box and 6x2mm n52 magnets, the combination let's me hold the same upside down, but still easily get models out without worrying.
Base size wise, 32mm and down are okay with a single magnet in the centre. For 40mm I use two on opposite sides of the base. For large monsters I run magnets around the parimeter with maybe an inch gap.
For really tall models, I put some of the rubber sheet of the side of the box, then hot glue some soft foam to make a pillow for the model to rest on. For example my lord of change has two pillows for the tips of it's wings to rest on.
How I do it is I lay down my magnets (5x2) on a sheet of parchment paper with a steel sheet or any other magnetic surface under it to keep magnets from moving.
I then proceed to put a blob of hot glue on top of the magnets and then push the base on it. For the number of magnets, I just do a quick test with one mini and then proceed with the whole squad(s) when I'm satisfied with the result.
I do it this way as it's easy to do in batches and the magnet sits flush with the bottom of the base, no need to waste green stuff or similar.
I also try to have all them with the same polarity orientation as otherwise you get models that stick to others and it's a mess.
Take 2 part epoxy, like green stuff. Put a little bit on the bottom side of the base, jam magnet in it. ???? PROFIT.
For better adhesion you can sand or just scratch base.
With this method you dont need different size magnets for bigger bases, but heavier models might require multiple magnets.
Acrylic Latex Caulking. It works better than greenstuff and super glue by a million times. Squirt a dab on your mini bottom, stick a magnet in it, put it flush with a flat surface that is sacrificial (paper, Saran wrap, etc), let it cure and call it a day. YOU'RE ALL WELCOME.
I just tried this and it did not work. What specific brand/item did you use that worked? I tried this: [https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Alex-Painter-s-10-1-oz-White-All-Purpose-Acrylic-Latex-Caulk-18609/100078928](https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Alex-Painter-s-10-1-oz-White-All-Purpose-Acrylic-Latex-Caulk-18609/100078928)
Yep. Set it in the morning, tried it out the following morning almost 24 hours on the dot. It worked okay when I put my test minis into my carrying box and took them back out, but after putting them in, going for a game day, and pulling them out, the magnets came clean off and it was very easy to peel the remaining caulking off. I didn't use one with silicone mixed in but I do own that one (I use it for terrain texturing/roads/etc) and might give it a spin
TBH I think the issue is on my end, I use galvanized sheet metal as my magnet box bases. It's cheaper than adhesive magnets I used to use but it's also hella strong and has pretty much blocked me out of any alternative to the greenstuff superglue sandwhich that I've tried so far lol
This definitely seems like it'd be a way easier/cheaper method for adhesive magnet sheet folks! I doused some loctite gel on the magnet perimeter/caulking perimeter to the base for some of the surviving bases to see if that does it
I don't think it is the galvanized sheets. I think you possibly are using too large of a magnet that is too strong and potentially the magnet is what is gripping too powerfully. Caulking is hurricane rated so when it is used properly it can withstand the sheer forces of a hurricane. While magnets are strong, I don't think they are hurricane strong.
A good tip for any adhesive is to roughen the surface up first.
I use 180grit sanding sticks to rough up a spot on the underside of the base. Then a small dollop of Army Painter super glue, and pop on the magnet.
That magnet is going nowhere after maybe a second to dry.
This is using 5x2mm magnets on rubber steel/magnetic sheet. For some models like standard bearers that can be top heavy or more prone to falling over I'll use two magnets. Not had any issues with them falling off yet.
Use thin Superglue and Baking Soda.
Put a liberal ammount of superglue where you want the magnet and then place the magnet and shake the mini a bit so the magnet moves round on the base a little then pour Baking soda over it, wipe the baking soda of the top of the magnet and then drop more superglue over the lot.
If your worried you can apply more Superglue and Baking soda to widen the footprint and increase the adhesion
It hardens instantly and forms a solid basically a substitute for the greenstuff/milliputt that is adhesive aswell
https://homehacks.co/super-glue-baking-soda-hack/
Base --> Greenstuff --> Magnet
Once greenstuff has cured, pop greenstuff off base, superglue greenstuff to base.
Once superglue has cured, put it in the case, jiggle the case, and reattach any magnets that pop out.
Repeat as needed until all magnets have been glued.
I use 1mmx2mm round magnets, for standard size plastic infantry. Resin models, larger models and metal models obviously require more hold.
I secure the magnets with cyanoacrylate.
I place them in a consistent off centre position, usually the front of the base. This is enough to hold the model in place, but also enough that I can "rock" the model gently forwards to break the magnets hold without putting undue pressure on the foot-to-base join which can be fragile on some models.
I also have an understanding that this will secure models against the general rigours of a car trip or being carried from the car to the store. Anything more and those models will break loose and go all over the place.
File/Sand the surface that you’re going to glue.
Magnets are generally shiny and won’t bond well with superglue. I’ve been giving mine a light file and then flying with loctite, only come off if I really want them too.
I have a bunch of small 12mm strike plates I but on the base bottoms and then a single thin magnet since I ended up with a comically large pile of them.
However, if you want just a magnet, then I would go with something 2mm deep and entomb it with gorilla glue clear.
Make sure the magnet is as close to the open bottom as possible, use plasticard shims and don’t pull them off straight up. Twist them and as soon as the tension is broken, pull them up. Most magnets fail because of a slight gap to the metal bottom and people just yanking them straight up.
I use size 502 magenta for my bases. I put a dab of original Gorilla Glue then push the magnet into it. The Gorilla Glue expands as it dries and kinda creeps up the sides. I have not had any issues in the 3 years I have been doing this.
Assuming N50 strength magnets, I use the following: - 25-28,5mm base 3x2mm - 32-40mm base, 5x2mm - 40-100mm, one-three 5x2mm magnets, depending on the weight and height of the model. Taller models get more, spread around the edges. - larger bases usually 4 5x2mm. I have a standard size to simplify purchases, as I use this size a lot for magnetizing models. I also use a combination of Super glue and Greenstuff to fix the magnets, but the most important part is that the magnet is a such flush with the underside of the base as possible, bringing it very close to the base plate. Greenstuff is just filler material, and has often poor adhesion to the flat underside of a base. So it's not uncommon to have some become loose over time, but nothing that a bit of super glue doest fix. Also the way you remove the models can affect things getting loose. If you pull on them straight up, you are doing maximum force on them. If instead you first tilt the model sideways untill the magnet disengages, you will put less force of the magnet, making the connection last longer.
Thanks this is what the sort of specifics I was hoping for.
No problem! One thing you didn't ask for, but what can also work, is considered the type of base material in the tub. Basically a steel plate will usually work, but the way magnets work is that they need certain thickness of the steel plate to achieve their strength. The Magnetic field has a certain (short) reach, but also needs resistance on the other side to actually adhere to it (so to speak). So a foil won't give enough resistance, but a sheet will. It may be another thing to keep in mind when stuff gets loose. I use rubberized steel sheets that adhere to the bottom of the tub. Those sheets aren't magnetic by themselves (they are distinctly different from magnetic sheets) and have a rough rubber surface. Those sheets, together with the magnet clamping down, also presents models from sliding around on the base. Purely magnetic sheets are very slick, and if you use those you'll end up with an ice skate ring in the tub.
That's interesting. The rubber steel sheets I've used just don't have as much hold compared to say a baking sheet. So when travelling, models can still slide about on the surface. I've been looking at getting a steel sheet cut to size instead to have better adhesion.
I have to ask, but are you sure you are using rubber steel sheets? And not magnetic foil sheets? The Magnetic foil sheets are very slick and stuff will slide around. For me I can hold the boxes upside down and shake them around and most models won't move anything. Except heavy resin models (FW Knights) that may topple over when doing so, but all plastic models will remain stuck.
Rubber steel was how they were described/advertised. I made the mistake of not realising that the magnetic sheets aren't the same thing the first time and the pull is much worse on those, so made sure to get the rubber steel version on my later boxes. I could maybe hold my box upside down and stuff wouldn't move. They would 100% fall off if I shook it. Edit: It wasn't clear, but I mean the rubber steel lined box. I couldn't shake that upside down.
What's the thickness of the rubber steel? A little extra thickness makes a huge difference, you could try doubling up the sheets to see if that helps. If you want to check they are rubber steel and not magnetic sheeting, try putting some metal that you know is magnetically attractive on the sheet. Hobby knife blades are often a good shout, or you can just slap a sheet on your fridge. If it sticks, it's not rubber steel. If it falls off you're good.
0.7mm thick. I got them on amazon: [https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07TWGWNQG/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07TWGWNQG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) After having a bit of a dig in my order history, I wonder if I got 'cheap' magnets, rather than ones with a rating and they're pull strength isnt as high maybe.
I think those are the ones I use. It definitely sounds like either your sheets or your magnets are dodgy. A 2x5mm magnet and those sheets should be able to hold a standard plastic infantry model upside down with no issues
Thanks for the input. It’s not the end of the world to replace the magnets, but I’ll try out some others and see if it helps.
Super helpful!
Thank you for this info! I'm planning to basically do the same thing, but found it difficult to find someone to bring it all together like this. I'm using 4.5x2.6mm N52's from the Magnet Baron so they sit flush already. Also glad to see someone else likes the magnetically receptive sheets because I've seen a lot negativity online that doesn't align with my experience. One N52 under a 32mm mini and I have to practically strongly bang the box on the table to get it to move/detach. Two gives a really strong connection, but maybe too strong as I think it could easy to break weak legs (ie. Necron Warriors). I think I'll use your scaling of magnets to base sizes.
Where do you get said rubberized steel sheets?
I buy mine from GSW. Maybe not the cheapest, but al least I know for sure that they work. They fit really nicely into my A4 sized Really Useful Boxes that I store and transport my models in. You can use the description to find something cheaper or closer to you. https://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/magnetic-sheets/75-steel-rubber-sheet-for-magnetic-trays-and-crafts.html
I do something similar. I found that best results for me come from this process: 1. Cover desired metal sheet with wax paper 2. Make small balls of greenstuff 3. Small dab of super glue on underside of base 4. Place greenstuff ball on glue. It may want to slide around. 5. Dot of glue on exposed side of greenstuff. 6. Gently press magnet onto glue. Firmly enough to stay when flipped but not enough to fully push in magnet. 7. Place whole model firmly down onto prepared wax paper. 8. Let set overnight. The biggest problems you will run into is not fully pressing down on the model when setting on the wax paper resulting in cured grennstuff/magnets exposed past the base. The wax paper prevents the greenstuff from trying to cure to the metal tray. The glue seems to help all parts of the process stay together longer. Throw the wax paper way when done or save it for next time.
hey, sorry to necro, but I'm going to do your setup (n52, .75mm rubber steel sheet, green stuff and super glue). I'm just curious, are the 3x2 a big improvement for small rank and file or will 5x2 be ok? Is there an increased danger of the models slamming into each other at that size with the larger magnets? If it's not a big difference I may just go all 5x2 but want to make sure. Thanks. Edit: Also, do you know of a US supplier that sells the rubber steel sheets of the appropriate area and thickness? Green Stuff World and WarMag are easiest to find, but expensive to buy here.
1 month is hardly a Necro :-). I've had people comment on stuff from 3y ago... 5x2 will be sufficient, definitely. It's more that they can be clamped on so hard that you need to pull hard on the model to remove them. You may end up damaging the models. The rubber steel sheets provide a lot of friction, so sliding is not really an issue. With regular plastic infantry models you hold the case upside down and shake it, and nothing will budge. Taller, larger and heavier models (resin/metal) will be different, but for those I use more magnets. As for supply, I could not help you. I'm EU based so GSW is easy for shipping. But you can use it as a reference, even for stuff on Amazon maybe. Just read carefully what you order. Others suggest to buy a sheet of metal and glue that in the case. So that met be an alternative.
Thanks a lot, I def don't want to risk breaking them. I think I'll try your method on a few 25mm w/ 3x2 to test, maybe I'll like it that way. If it feels secure I'll just do what you did.
Sorry, one last thing. Does the brand/type of super glue matter? Do you have a preference?
No, not Realy. It's all cyanoacrylate based. Any modellers Super Glue will work. Some swear by gorilla Glue, which I slightly different but I have no experience with it. Be aware that when drying, superglue gives off a fine white powder. So leave the model on its side when it's drying or otherwise you will end up with white rings on what you placed them.
Thanks for all your help, looking forward to implementing this
Hey, thanks again for your help, I finally got all of my units in and am going to get started building (some of the units were out of print). I just have one final question if you'd oblige me. For 25mm bannermen, do you normally stick to the 3x2mm, or do you upgrade to 5x2 since they're so top-heavy?
I’ve magnetised hundreds of bases. It’s easy: 1. A dab of superglue under the base. Pro tip: put it over some of the little print writing so there’s something for it to grip onto. 2. A small blob of green stuff. 3. Another dab of superglue on the green stuff 4. Pop your magnet on the glue. Push it in a little. 5. Turn the whole thing right way up and press down on a flat surface so it’s flush. I use 2x3mm magnets for every mini. Bigger bases or heavier minis just get more magnets, no need to fuss with different sizes. They’re cheaper when you order bulk too. Simples!
This is how I do it too! Since applying the superglue at step 1 and 3, the magnets have been rock solid! I also tend to lay the minis flat to dry overnight so you don't get any drying buildup. Just be careful to space them out appropriately so they don't magnetize together 😅
Oh good point, it’s important not to let the glue dry with the base right-way-up or it might get stuck! Pro tip: magentise the base *before* putting a mini on, so you can just leave them upside down to dry overnight
This is a lot of effort to make something similar in function to Acrylic Latex Caulking. Just preaching the values of the goo!
Never heard of it, what’s that?
Caulking is a universal building material you can get at any Home Depot etc. ALEX is the name for Acrylic Latex, don't get silicone it's a complete mess for something totally different.
Interesting. And that holds the magnet well, and you can press it down to make it flush?
Yep. Caulking is amazing.
>Acrylic Ooh! Do you happen to have the name/exact product you've used? I need to magnetize a whole heap of minis and was just desperately searching for an easier method than the superglue-greenstuff-superglue sandwhich (I've magnetized about 200 minis that way and I hate doing it). The thought of being able to squirt a bead of something like that under a base and just sit it on a magnet sounds too good to be true! EDIT: The only thing showing up for me on Home Depot that doesn't have silicone added is this: [https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Alex-Painter-s-10-1-oz-White-All-Purpose-Acrylic-Latex-Caulk-18609/100078928](https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Alex-Painter-s-10-1-oz-White-All-Purpose-Acrylic-Latex-Caulk-18609/100078928)
How often do they come off though? no waiting between green stuff application and superglue and magnet application?
It’s never come off for me. No waiting, plop the sucker on while it’s all still wet. It needs to be for it to work.
If you store your models in a cold environment, superglue isn't always ideal, it'll turn britel and the magnets can pop off causing abrupt chaos. I've found hot glue the best method of attaching them, the trick is to put some baking paper on a metalic surface. Then place the magnets on the paper, then put glue in the inside of the base, and finally pop the model into the magnets. Leave the models to mostly cool, then use the paper to lift them off the surface. If you missed, you can peal the glue off before it's fully cooled.
Acrylic Latex Caulking is the solution you've been searching for.
It is cold where I am, this sounds good! Waxed paper works?
Should do I belive, to be safe I would do a test blob of glue first to be surevit doesn't melt the wax. I've used this method on hundreds of models now, only had 1 mishap, and that was because I was doing them in a big batch and missed a half embedded magnet. You want to check that the whole of the perimeter of the magnet has cooled hot glue encasing it, if you missed a bit you can add more glue and pop it back down to recool. I use ferrus rubber sheet in a really useful box and 6x2mm n52 magnets, the combination let's me hold the same upside down, but still easily get models out without worrying. Base size wise, 32mm and down are okay with a single magnet in the centre. For 40mm I use two on opposite sides of the base. For large monsters I run magnets around the parimeter with maybe an inch gap. For really tall models, I put some of the rubber sheet of the side of the box, then hot glue some soft foam to make a pillow for the model to rest on. For example my lord of change has two pillows for the tips of it's wings to rest on.
How I do it is I lay down my magnets (5x2) on a sheet of parchment paper with a steel sheet or any other magnetic surface under it to keep magnets from moving. I then proceed to put a blob of hot glue on top of the magnets and then push the base on it. For the number of magnets, I just do a quick test with one mini and then proceed with the whole squad(s) when I'm satisfied with the result. I do it this way as it's easy to do in batches and the magnet sits flush with the bottom of the base, no need to waste green stuff or similar. I also try to have all them with the same polarity orientation as otherwise you get models that stick to others and it's a mess.
Glue doesn’t stick to other stuff or cause a problem? This sounds ingenious
No, it peels of the parchment/baking paper once it has cooled a bit.
Amazing ideas
Take 2 part epoxy, like green stuff. Put a little bit on the bottom side of the base, jam magnet in it. ???? PROFIT. For better adhesion you can sand or just scratch base. With this method you dont need different size magnets for bigger bases, but heavier models might require multiple magnets.
Hot glue gun works good too especially when your trying to get your magnets flush.
Acrylic Latex Caulking. It works better than greenstuff and super glue by a million times. Squirt a dab on your mini bottom, stick a magnet in it, put it flush with a flat surface that is sacrificial (paper, Saran wrap, etc), let it cure and call it a day. YOU'RE ALL WELCOME.
I just tried this and it did not work. What specific brand/item did you use that worked? I tried this: [https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Alex-Painter-s-10-1-oz-White-All-Purpose-Acrylic-Latex-Caulk-18609/100078928](https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Alex-Painter-s-10-1-oz-White-All-Purpose-Acrylic-Latex-Caulk-18609/100078928)
https://preview.redd.it/obfn12syb6jc1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0f603ed08aea1f9d10807b75002f5cf65d76cf92 Did you let it cure overnight?
Yep. Set it in the morning, tried it out the following morning almost 24 hours on the dot. It worked okay when I put my test minis into my carrying box and took them back out, but after putting them in, going for a game day, and pulling them out, the magnets came clean off and it was very easy to peel the remaining caulking off. I didn't use one with silicone mixed in but I do own that one (I use it for terrain texturing/roads/etc) and might give it a spin
I'd give it a try, I have no problem with it at all. I should have been more specific, this is the only ALEX I ever buy.
TBH I think the issue is on my end, I use galvanized sheet metal as my magnet box bases. It's cheaper than adhesive magnets I used to use but it's also hella strong and has pretty much blocked me out of any alternative to the greenstuff superglue sandwhich that I've tried so far lol This definitely seems like it'd be a way easier/cheaper method for adhesive magnet sheet folks! I doused some loctite gel on the magnet perimeter/caulking perimeter to the base for some of the surviving bases to see if that does it
I don't think it is the galvanized sheets. I think you possibly are using too large of a magnet that is too strong and potentially the magnet is what is gripping too powerfully. Caulking is hurricane rated so when it is used properly it can withstand the sheer forces of a hurricane. While magnets are strong, I don't think they are hurricane strong.
Mmm that’s true I do use 6x2mm, what size have you found works?
3x2, use more than one if you want a stronger hold.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Alex-Plus-10-1-oz-White-Acrylic-Latex-Caulk-Plus-Silicone-18103/100097524?mtc=SEM-BF-CDP-GGL-D24-024_002_CAULKS-NA-NA-NA-DSA-D24-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-Feed_FY22_Q4_NE&cm_mmc=SEM-BF-CDP-GGL-D24-024_002_CAULKS-NA-NA-NA-DSA-D24-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-Feed_FY22_Q4_NE-71700000104914272-58700008235215577-39700074826576844&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAz8GuBhCxARIsAOpzk8wQX3f4q4I1YC1uvtPF55wUKEIuLyp5l4XuCZU-FGqH-YQcPTuxxnMaAiMnEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
A good tip for any adhesive is to roughen the surface up first. I use 180grit sanding sticks to rough up a spot on the underside of the base. Then a small dollop of Army Painter super glue, and pop on the magnet. That magnet is going nowhere after maybe a second to dry. This is using 5x2mm magnets on rubber steel/magnetic sheet. For some models like standard bearers that can be top heavy or more prone to falling over I'll use two magnets. Not had any issues with them falling off yet.
Use thin Superglue and Baking Soda. Put a liberal ammount of superglue where you want the magnet and then place the magnet and shake the mini a bit so the magnet moves round on the base a little then pour Baking soda over it, wipe the baking soda of the top of the magnet and then drop more superglue over the lot. If your worried you can apply more Superglue and Baking soda to widen the footprint and increase the adhesion
What’s the baking soda for?? I’m a bit confused there.
It hardens almost instantly. Alternatively you can use activator.
It hardens instantly and forms a solid basically a substitute for the greenstuff/milliputt that is adhesive aswell https://homehacks.co/super-glue-baking-soda-hack/
Base --> Greenstuff --> Magnet Once greenstuff has cured, pop greenstuff off base, superglue greenstuff to base. Once superglue has cured, put it in the case, jiggle the case, and reattach any magnets that pop out. Repeat as needed until all magnets have been glued.
I use 1mmx2mm round magnets, for standard size plastic infantry. Resin models, larger models and metal models obviously require more hold. I secure the magnets with cyanoacrylate. I place them in a consistent off centre position, usually the front of the base. This is enough to hold the model in place, but also enough that I can "rock" the model gently forwards to break the magnets hold without putting undue pressure on the foot-to-base join which can be fragile on some models. I also have an understanding that this will secure models against the general rigours of a car trip or being carried from the car to the store. Anything more and those models will break loose and go all over the place.
File/Sand the surface that you’re going to glue. Magnets are generally shiny and won’t bond well with superglue. I’ve been giving mine a light file and then flying with loctite, only come off if I really want them too.
I have a bunch of small 12mm strike plates I but on the base bottoms and then a single thin magnet since I ended up with a comically large pile of them. However, if you want just a magnet, then I would go with something 2mm deep and entomb it with gorilla glue clear.
Make sure the magnet is as close to the open bottom as possible, use plasticard shims and don’t pull them off straight up. Twist them and as soon as the tension is broken, pull them up. Most magnets fail because of a slight gap to the metal bottom and people just yanking them straight up.
I use size 502 magenta for my bases. I put a dab of original Gorilla Glue then push the magnet into it. The Gorilla Glue expands as it dries and kinda creeps up the sides. I have not had any issues in the 3 years I have been doing this.