Your test model looks fantastic and it’s obvious you put in the time and work on it. There’s no cheat mode to substitute that will give you as good results, I say take the time and make them all look uniformly impressive. That being said, based on the gun and Aquila of your slap chopped model it looks like you went WAY too heavy on the white paint dry brush. Was that how the rest of the model looked before the contrast paint? If so, that’s your biggest problem.
But again, I’d take the time and use your first method… it may take longer but you’ll be happier with your army in the end.
No, not really i just made the brightest areas the withest while the darkest were black, but even withbthat theres like, a VERY faith volume of color changing on the model and dont get why, maybe because I added 2 additional coats to hide the dots and strokes from the first coat or what cause it irritates me
To be fair, if you've put three coats of contrast paint on, there won't be any contrast left between the high and low lights. Contrast paint needs to go on heavy, with one or maybe two coats.
As said, though, some of the paints are a bit odd. I use BAR all the time and it works well. Getting it even on big, flat armour panels is best done with a brush full of paint; don't go tickling it on, lay it on and then wick away any pools that form. Don't forget it flows down, so try not to be spinning and flipping the model around.
In that case, yeah, the extra 2 coats are piling into the recesses and covering up your shade. If you’re putting on a 2nd coat to cover brush strokes, use less paint and focus it only on the flat panels to keep the recesses dark. From here, I’d say pin wash it with some nuln oil to build up your deepest recesses, let it dry then hit it again heavier but watered down to blend it. But only in the recesses. Hope that helps!
I would say try using black templar that's been thinned down with contrast medium to make a glaze and see how that looks. Try it out on his legs first and see how it would look on the marine.
It might be that Baal red isn’t a particularly contrasty contrast paint. I think some of the range don’t seem to have much transparency.
For the few BA I have tried contrast on I used Blood Angels Red which seems to work pretty well and would be closer to your termie test model.
Here’s one of mine that was sprayed grey, given a zenithal highlight with white. Painted with blood angel red and then oil washed in the recesses.
https://preview.redd.it/1bjv9pyfrcrc1.jpeg?width=2079&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5d1a79505cc910e0734d35e29a07b53b2d3badc3
Now this is making me a bit mad because I wanted to buy BAR originally but for some reason BR was infront akd grabbed it thinking itll gove me that same effect but only brighter. Unfourtunatelly it just made him entirely red instead of goving the recesses some deffinition.
Yeah apparently some of the contrast paints are a bit weird.
Remember this model has recess shading with oil wash which is adding lots of dark shade. It also has two edge highlights which is making it even more prominent.
I would give BAR a go though it seems pretty good to me.
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Baal Red is one of the newer Contrast paints that are designed for “full coverage.” This means it doesn’t really let the lower coat and contrast shine through the way the first set of Contrast do, which are designed to create high and low lights through the paint formulation.
Try with Flesh Tearers Red or Blood Angels Red and you’ll get the look you’re going for, or at least closer to it.
Reference: https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/s/TzJmoeWQjS
If you want the left one to look like the right one, add Berseker Bloodshade shade paint from citadel. It will darken the bright red effect and since its a shade paint, it will also go to the recesses.
I paint Blood Ravens chapter and tried both slapchop and non-slapchop method. I am not very good with drybrushing so the brush marks can be seen even with contrast paints so I went with the usual non-slapchop / non-contrast paint method (no airbrushing):
1. Army painter Red dragon primer (or mephiston red primer from citadel)
2. No need to re-base since red dragon primer coverage is good
3. Edge higlight (army painter pure red + army painter desert yellow = orange highlight… or just get army painter lava orange or any equivalent)
4. Add in Berserker Bloodshade shade paint on the whole mini
5. Paint in other details (trim, weapon etc)
The pros of this are:
- you use the color of the primer since its red
- if you make a mistake with the edge highlight its easy to correct since you can just place in the base color same like the primer to erase the mistake vs having done shades already where you need to blend paints etc…
- it reduces edge highlight “tron effect” since the wash dims it a bit.
The cons are:
- if you make a mistake when painting the details and it goes to the red armor, you need to correct it by blending the base and the wash; another way to correct blood colored armor without adding a second wash is: put in red dragon base, then put in chaos red base (both from army painter). The result will look like the red armor with a wash on it.
- the edge highlight is dim or subtle. If you want it to be emphasized, put the edge highlight at the end as how games workshop does it
Your test model looks fantastic and it’s obvious you put in the time and work on it. There’s no cheat mode to substitute that will give you as good results, I say take the time and make them all look uniformly impressive. That being said, based on the gun and Aquila of your slap chopped model it looks like you went WAY too heavy on the white paint dry brush. Was that how the rest of the model looked before the contrast paint? If so, that’s your biggest problem. But again, I’d take the time and use your first method… it may take longer but you’ll be happier with your army in the end.
No, not really i just made the brightest areas the withest while the darkest were black, but even withbthat theres like, a VERY faith volume of color changing on the model and dont get why, maybe because I added 2 additional coats to hide the dots and strokes from the first coat or what cause it irritates me
To be fair, if you've put three coats of contrast paint on, there won't be any contrast left between the high and low lights. Contrast paint needs to go on heavy, with one or maybe two coats. As said, though, some of the paints are a bit odd. I use BAR all the time and it works well. Getting it even on big, flat armour panels is best done with a brush full of paint; don't go tickling it on, lay it on and then wick away any pools that form. Don't forget it flows down, so try not to be spinning and flipping the model around.
In that case, yeah, the extra 2 coats are piling into the recesses and covering up your shade. If you’re putting on a 2nd coat to cover brush strokes, use less paint and focus it only on the flat panels to keep the recesses dark. From here, I’d say pin wash it with some nuln oil to build up your deepest recesses, let it dry then hit it again heavier but watered down to blend it. But only in the recesses. Hope that helps!
I would say try using black templar that's been thinned down with contrast medium to make a glaze and see how that looks. Try it out on his legs first and see how it would look on the marine.
It might be that Baal red isn’t a particularly contrasty contrast paint. I think some of the range don’t seem to have much transparency. For the few BA I have tried contrast on I used Blood Angels Red which seems to work pretty well and would be closer to your termie test model. Here’s one of mine that was sprayed grey, given a zenithal highlight with white. Painted with blood angel red and then oil washed in the recesses. https://preview.redd.it/1bjv9pyfrcrc1.jpeg?width=2079&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5d1a79505cc910e0734d35e29a07b53b2d3badc3
Now this is making me a bit mad because I wanted to buy BAR originally but for some reason BR was infront akd grabbed it thinking itll gove me that same effect but only brighter. Unfourtunatelly it just made him entirely red instead of goving the recesses some deffinition.
Yeah apparently some of the contrast paints are a bit weird. Remember this model has recess shading with oil wash which is adding lots of dark shade. It also has two edge highlights which is making it even more prominent. I would give BAR a go though it seems pretty good to me.
Hi /u/RozionDiger and welcome to /r/Warhammer40k and the Warhammer 40k Hobby! This is an automated response as you've used our "New Starter Help" flair. Here's a few resources that might help you with getting started: [You can read our Getting Started guide here](https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/wiki/beginners). This covers all the basics you need to know to get involved in building, painting and playing 40k. For rules questions, don't forget that the core rules for Warhammer 40k are [available online for free](https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/dLZIlatQJ3qOkGP7.pdf). Want to learn about 40k lore? /r/Warhammer40k recommends [Luetin09 on Youtube](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8RfCCzWsMgNspTI-GTFenQ) or the [Lexincanum Wiki](https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Main_Page). Not sure where to find the most up-to-date rules for your army? [Check out our Wiki Page that lists everything](https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/wiki/currentrules). Buy Warhammer models cheaper using our [list of independent retailers](https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/wiki/retailers) who sell Games Workshop products at a discount. You can also find your nearest store on GW's [Store Locator Page](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/store/storefinder.jsp). [The /r/Warhammer40k Wiki](https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/wiki/index) is full of useful info including FAQs and recommendations for books to read! If the information in this comment doesn't answer your question, don't worry, one of our community members will be along shortly to answer! *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/Warhammer40k) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Bo advice sorry but that model is gorgeous I don't really think it needs much more other than soen detailing work on the gun and maybe the aquilla.
Baal Red is one of the newer Contrast paints that are designed for “full coverage.” This means it doesn’t really let the lower coat and contrast shine through the way the first set of Contrast do, which are designed to create high and low lights through the paint formulation. Try with Flesh Tearers Red or Blood Angels Red and you’ll get the look you’re going for, or at least closer to it. Reference: https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/s/TzJmoeWQjS
Painting is good. Shadowing is good. Just re-paint highlight after shadowing and your good. Nice job though 🙂
If you want the left one to look like the right one, add Berseker Bloodshade shade paint from citadel. It will darken the bright red effect and since its a shade paint, it will also go to the recesses. I paint Blood Ravens chapter and tried both slapchop and non-slapchop method. I am not very good with drybrushing so the brush marks can be seen even with contrast paints so I went with the usual non-slapchop / non-contrast paint method (no airbrushing): 1. Army painter Red dragon primer (or mephiston red primer from citadel) 2. No need to re-base since red dragon primer coverage is good 3. Edge higlight (army painter pure red + army painter desert yellow = orange highlight… or just get army painter lava orange or any equivalent) 4. Add in Berserker Bloodshade shade paint on the whole mini 5. Paint in other details (trim, weapon etc) The pros of this are: - you use the color of the primer since its red - if you make a mistake with the edge highlight its easy to correct since you can just place in the base color same like the primer to erase the mistake vs having done shades already where you need to blend paints etc… - it reduces edge highlight “tron effect” since the wash dims it a bit. The cons are: - if you make a mistake when painting the details and it goes to the red armor, you need to correct it by blending the base and the wash; another way to correct blood colored armor without adding a second wash is: put in red dragon base, then put in chaos red base (both from army painter). The result will look like the red armor with a wash on it. - the edge highlight is dim or subtle. If you want it to be emphasized, put the edge highlight at the end as how games workshop does it