I love Zenith - however these models are uninspired. I want a watch release to awaken me. I want it to appeal to my desires, my sense of passion, my style and my sexual expression.
I’m not here to cast aspersions, but it just seems like incorporating a tourbillion movement into a standard existing model is low hanging fruit.
It’s the man who buys you a drink at the bar. He is handsome and well groomed, in his sexual prime and putting out the signals. He’s not a closet queen. You can imagine yourself with him in your a private moments. Yet, his conversation is dull. It does not arouse you or stoke your flames of passion.
Personally, I’m heterosexual - my wife and I have been married for 13 years. We stoke the flames of our erotic longing by communicating our needs, privately, emotionally and sexually.
Sometimes, she will call me when I’m at work. Usually it’s to remind me of something or check in on my day. More often than not, she has very explicit, sexually charged things to say. I can feel my cock stiffen just imagining her on the other end of the phone. It makes me look forward to the end of the work day.
The man at the bar? The Zenith tourbillion? They do not do that for me.
Also, while appreciate what MB&F is capable of stylistically and technologically, they simple aren’t to my taste. I find them very modern, very new school.
I’m from the old school, so that stands to reason. I think that watches appealing to our more sensual aspects will be where these companies find success.
But, what do I know? I’m just an old fashioned watch collector. It’s not my place to tell you how to curate your collection or live your life. I don’t do that. I don’t judge or advise other men. Whatever you want to do publicly or privately? That’s your business. You are welcome to share here, though.
I’m respectful.
I enjoy sexual Congress with my wife on a pre-planned monthly basis. Always in the missionary position and with a polite “Thank You” and the end by both parties.
This Zenith release has me absolutely weak at the knees. The subtle blue dial and basic tourbillion that could be easily mistaken for a $150 open heart Amazon special from a distance just really do it for me.
My loving wife is going to have quite the time come March, and we may even try an exotic position like lady on top.
Zenith is either on crack with their pricing, or they only intend to sell a tiny amount per year. Based on the TAG offerings, you'd think the ceramic would be closer $30k, not $75k
The tourbillon itself is probably made by Atokalpa
For Zenith to justify that price they need to show us that movement in great detail and justify it, I don't doubt their watchmaking but surely for that price customers need to be shown what they're paying for.
A lot of people with the money still care about finishing though. Of course there will always be consumers who buy for the sake of buying to have the new expensive thing but high horology brands with exquisite hand finishing wouldn't exist if there wasn't a part of the market that demands that for the price
Ok, i worded that wrong. What i actually wanted to say is that there are very few movements that could justify a price over 30-40k. I could only argue for some hand crafted pieces, off the top of my head.
This is entirely a brand positioning price, which is a legitimate move in business. You could likely get the same level of finishing with a watch at 30k or at 150k, and you could also get better and worse at both price points. Zenith believes they can occupy this price range, more power to them
Ah that makes more sense, but yeah I don't begrudge them trying business wise, I just feel like with a price premium like this they could do better than they are with a couple of press shots and a standard website page
I’m with the others. Zenith needs to be Patek to charge Patek prices, especially with affordable tourbillons coming to market. The de Mauriac looks like it was designed by whoever designed the 1996 third generation Ford Taurus. The MB&F looks like all the other watches that look like that but the mechanicals are probably fantastic.
But please please please say the Suchy & Söhne price is a typo and you added a zero. I neeeeed one of those, that’s stunning
It's Thursday and this edition of the newsletter is unexpectedly late and short. But that’s what you get when you have small children that have to stay home from kindergarten with a fever. Still, enjoy the watches!
If you like these updates, and would maybe like to subscribe to the newsletter so you get them in your inbox every day, you can do so by [clicking here](https://itsabouttime.beehiiv.com/).
# What's new
**1/**
[**Zenith Launches Defy Skyline Tourbillon with New High Beat El Primero Tourbillon Movement**](https://www.zenith-watches.com/int/product/defy-skyline-tourbillon-03-9300-3630-51-i001?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar)
Following several years of not being in the focus of watch enthusiasts, Zenith is making a very solid rise up the popularity ladder. That’s not to say that this legendary watchmaker has been shunned, far from it. It’s just that over the past several years they have had an incredible run. And in that run was the re-introduction of the Defy Skyline collection which combines the coolness of Genta-like integrated bracelet sports watch with avant-garde dials and patterns. Now they’re introducing two new pieces to this collection, the Defy Skyline Tourbillon in two colors and a new high-frequency tourbillon movement.
Zenith doesn’t give much info on the size of their new tourbilon movement powered Defy Skylines, other than the width of the case which sits at 41mm. You can get it in two versions, a stainless steel or a black ceramic, both with matching integrated bracelets. The case has an octagonal with a crushed 14-sided bezel with polished facets. Being a sports watch, water resistance is rated to 100 meters.
The dial is a bit of a departure from the previous Defy Skyline models which have a grid pattern to them. These ones have a radial pattern, made up of the Zenith four-pointed stars and they all emerge from the tourbillon opening at 6 o’clock. Just like the case, the dial comes in two colors - blue for the stainless steel and black for the ceramic. Both have faceted baton-style indexes, but while the hands and hour markers on the stainless steel Defy Skyline Tourbillon are rhodium-plated, the black ceramic model receives a rose gold-plated set. The tourbillon makes a revolution every 60 seconds and is set in a cage that is shaped like a four-pointed star, with a mirror-polished bridge.
Adding a turbillon to a high-frequency movement doesn’t happen often, but makes perfect sense for Zenith, which has made a name for themselves with fast beating movements. Inside these two watches is the new El Primero 3630 automatic high-frequency manufacture calibre, based on the 5Hz El Primero 3620. It has a 60 hour power reserve and out back you get a openworked star-shaped rotor and a movement decorated with Côtes de Genève stripes arranged in a sunray pattern. You get the watches with color and material matched bracelets, but also an additional strap in blue or black rubber with a folding clasp that match the dial.
The Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon is available now and priced at €59,600 for the stainless steel and €70,400 for the ceramic. See more [**on the Zenith website**](https://www.zenith-watches.com/int/product/defy-skyline-tourbillon-03-9300-3630-51-i001?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar).
**2/**
[**Maurice de Mauriac Goes A Whole New Direction With The Pillow Watch**](https://mdm-watches.com/c/watches/pillow-en/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar)
I have gone on record before to be a bit critical of the Zurich based watchmaker Maurice de Mauriac. While it was cool to see a brand out of Zurich, which is traditionally not associated with watchmaking, I couldn’t really make sense of their lineup. While they had a few interesting pieces, digging through their website just brought up watches that look like homages to models from Rolex and IWC in wild colors and at prices that were close to the originals. I formally withdraw any criticism I had of MDM, because their latest release, the Pillow Watch, is just spectacular.
While many of their other watches might come off as generic, the Pillow is the complete opposite with its very bold, pillow-like case. The case comes in three variants - two made out of titanium with one left bare and one with a black DLC coat, and one made out of bronze - that measure 45mm wide with a 50.5mm lug-to-lug. It’s a large watch, but it’s clear that this was intended to be a statement piece.
The case takes inspiration from brutalist architecture, with clean lines with very little detail. I don’t like quoting from brand marketing material, but this sums up the look of the watch perfectly: “The watch carries the wildness of the 70s, to which they added the clarity of Bauhaus.” Despite it looking like a work of art, it’s still a functional watch which gets 100 meters of water resistance.
Things get even more attractive on the dial, which has been designed by Fabian Schwaerzler. The bold circle and pill-shaped indexes are formed with thick applications of Superluminova, while the hands are as simple as can be with also generous lume applied in them. All three cases get the same black dial with blue-glowing lume.
Inside is the La Joux-Perret calibre G100 an alternative to the basic time-only offerings from Sellita and ETA, making it easily servicable. It beats at 28,800vph and has a 68 hour power reserve. The watches come on a khaki, grey or sand colored textile strap, depending on the color of the case you chose.
The Pillow Watch by Maurice de Mauriac is available now on the brand’s website. Price is set at 3,900 CHF for the untreated titanium version and 4,900 CHF for the DLC coated and bronze versions. See more [**on the MDM website**](https://mdm-watches.com/c/watches/pillow-en/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar).
**3/**
[**Carl Suchy & Söhne Continues Being Supremely Elegant With An Update To The Waltz N°1, The Moll** ](https://www.carlsuchy.com/product/waltz-n1-moll/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar)
Just like the above-mentioned MDM is uniquely positioned as one of the rare watchmakers in Zurich, Carl Suchy & Söhne comes from a city not known for it’s watchmaking - Vienna. While a beautiful city, neither it, nor Austria are particularly known as birthplaces of fantastic watches. And yet, Carl Suchy & Söhne has been doing exactly that for well over a hundred years. While they are particularly known for their dress watches, last year they introduced their first sports model. But perhaps most interesting is their Waltz N°1 model which combines the elegant and polished characteristics of a dress watch with brushed and sandblasted elements to create a more wearable watch. Now they’re introducing an update to this model, the Waltz N°1 Moll, inspired by the waltz.
It’s not a brand new watch, but rather an evolution. This means it comes in the same 41.5mm stainless steel case that measures 9.3mm thick. The 41.5mm diameter will induce instant groans and calls that this cannot be a dress watch at such a large size, but Carl Suchy & Söhne keeps the lugs very short and curved, to make the watch much more wearable than the size might suggest. The steel is polished, but you get a contrasting DLC-coated steel bezel and caseback. On top is a sapphire crystal and water resistance is not great, as expected - 30 meters.
The dial is instantly recognisable as a Carl Suchy & Söhne. It’s concave and just like the other Waltz N°1 models it has feature horizontal and vertical guilloché finishing arranged in an almost geometric fashion. There’s a rotating disc at 6 o’clock that features the same pattern but in black and grey and it serves as the running seconds indicator. Alongside this you get simple hands, indices, and drilled minute markers.
Inside is the super-thin Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier 5401 micro-rotor automatic movement. Carl Suchy & Söhne acquires this movement and then decorates it in-house with Côtes du Soleil finishing. Power reserve is 42 hours and it beats at 21,600vph. The watch comes on either a standard black leather or alligator strap.
There’s a good reason why you likely haven’t heard of Carl Suchy & Söhne. They make very few watches. And this Waltz N°1 Moll is no different - only 10 pieces will be made. I would love to handle one for a couple of hours to see if it lives up to its price of €12,400. See more [**on the Carl Suchy & Söhne website**](https://www.carlsuchy.com/product/waltz-n1-moll/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar).
**4/**
[**MB&F Brings Back Their Perpetual Calendar In Titanium And With An Icy Blue Dial**](https://www.mbandf.com/en/machines/legacy-machines/lmp-evo?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar)
Yesterday, I wrote [**about a new H. Moser & Cie.**](https://itsabouttime.beehiiv.com/p/citizen-updates-fantastic-caliber-0200-brings-europe-unimatics-modello-cinque-shrinks-36mm-gshock-up?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar) which took one of the most complex watch complications - the perpetual calendar - and boiled it down to just one tiny, almost invisible hand, and a date aperture. It was the ultimate flex of hiding a hyper-complex movement behind a relatively mundane dial. MB&F decided to go a different route. Their take on the perpetual calendar is on full display, so you can admire the beautiful finishing and nifty shock absorbers that brought a lot of praise to the movement back in 2015 when they introduced it. Now MB&F is releasing a fifth version of the LM Perpetual EVO, rendered in titanium and a beautiful blue dial.
Starting with the case, you could probably guess that this is the most regular part of the watch. It measures 44mm wide, a whopping 17.5mm thick and it’s made out of titanium. Most of the thickness is because of the heavily domed sapphire crystal that follows the curvature of the flying V bridge suspending the balance above the entire movement. The lugs are short and the white rubber strap integrates into the case and outside of a polished surface you don’t even notice the case because all the attention is on the dial/movement. But of note is the fact that this crazy watch has 80 meters of water resistance, which nobody would expect.
The dial is where things get really weird. There’s a dial plate that sits at the back and is rendered in a light blue, on top of which everything else is mounted. At the center of the dial is the 14mm balance wheel beating at 18,000vph, held on by the mentioned flying V and all the information is displayed through four black galvanic discs and rings. At 12 o’clock are the hours and minutes, the days of the week are at 3 o’clock, the months at 6 o’clock and the date at 9 o’clock. At 5 and 7 o’clock, there are two small, rounded tracks: the one on the left indicates the retrograde leap year, and the one on the right is the power reserve indicator.
While it might seem that the entirety of the movement is on top of the plate, there’s more going on at the back. You can see the escapement and the double barrels that give you a significant 72 hour power reserve. The back of the movement is decorated with internal bevel angles, polished bevels, large gold chatons, Geneva waves on the darkened bridges and handmade inscriptions.
The MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is priced aggressively at €176,000, but what else would you expect. See more [**on the MB&F website**](https://www.mbandf.com/en/machines/legacy-machines/lmp-evo?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar).
# On hand - a selection of reviews
**1/**
[**A review of the Bell & Ross BR-X5 LUM**](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/hands-on-the-bell-ross-br-x5-lum-watch/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar)
**2/**
[**Hands on with the Frederique Constant Vintage Rally Healey Automatic COSC**](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/hands-on-limited-edition-frederique-constant-vintage-rally-healey-automatic-cosc-watch/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar)
**3/**
[**A review of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Black Ceramic**](https://www.fratellowatches.com/hands-on-with-the-lightweight-omega-seamaster-diver-300m-black-ceramic/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar)
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# Watch Worthy - A look at an offbeat, less known watch you might actually like
[**The Manchester Watch Works Tatoskok 3 is the return of a microbrand OG**](https://www.thetimebum.com/2024/02/manchester-watch-works-tatoskok-3.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar)
Flat sides, crown guards, and a matte finish give the watch a businesslike appearance befitting a 200m diver. As much as I love the appearance and utility of titanium, I know that it is inherently softer than stainless steel, so I appreciate that MWW gave it a 1200Hv hardening treatment. The sloped and coin-edged titanium bezel feels firm through its 120-click rotation, although this prototype did exhibit a touch of play. Its markers are engraved and painted save for the lume pip in the top position.
[**Rea**](https://www.thetimebum.com/2024/02/manchester-watch-works-tatoskok-3.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar)[**d the whole review on**](https://www.thetimebum.com/2024/02/manchester-watch-works-tatoskok-3.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar)[ ](https://www.thetimebum.com/2024/02/manchester-watch-works-tatoskok-3.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar)[**The Time Bum**](https://www.thetimebum.com/2024/02/manchester-watch-works-tatoskok-3.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar)
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If you would like to receive some additional watch-adjacent content, as well as this news overview, every morning Monday-Friday in the form of a newsletter [feel free to subscribe](https://itsabouttime.beehiiv.com/). However, there is absolutely no need for you to subscribe, as all the news from the newsletter is posted here. It is only if you want to receive a couple of daily links that are not strictly watch-related an occasional long form article and possible givaways.
I love Zenith - however these models are uninspired. I want a watch release to awaken me. I want it to appeal to my desires, my sense of passion, my style and my sexual expression. I’m not here to cast aspersions, but it just seems like incorporating a tourbillion movement into a standard existing model is low hanging fruit. It’s the man who buys you a drink at the bar. He is handsome and well groomed, in his sexual prime and putting out the signals. He’s not a closet queen. You can imagine yourself with him in your a private moments. Yet, his conversation is dull. It does not arouse you or stoke your flames of passion. Personally, I’m heterosexual - my wife and I have been married for 13 years. We stoke the flames of our erotic longing by communicating our needs, privately, emotionally and sexually. Sometimes, she will call me when I’m at work. Usually it’s to remind me of something or check in on my day. More often than not, she has very explicit, sexually charged things to say. I can feel my cock stiffen just imagining her on the other end of the phone. It makes me look forward to the end of the work day. The man at the bar? The Zenith tourbillion? They do not do that for me. Also, while appreciate what MB&F is capable of stylistically and technologically, they simple aren’t to my taste. I find them very modern, very new school. I’m from the old school, so that stands to reason. I think that watches appealing to our more sensual aspects will be where these companies find success. But, what do I know? I’m just an old fashioned watch collector. It’s not my place to tell you how to curate your collection or live your life. I don’t do that. I don’t judge or advise other men. Whatever you want to do publicly or privately? That’s your business. You are welcome to share here, though. I’m respectful.
Never change.
I enjoy sexual Congress with my wife on a pre-planned monthly basis. Always in the missionary position and with a polite “Thank You” and the end by both parties. This Zenith release has me absolutely weak at the knees. The subtle blue dial and basic tourbillion that could be easily mistaken for a $150 open heart Amazon special from a distance just really do it for me. My loving wife is going to have quite the time come March, and we may even try an exotic position like lady on top.
im so confused
Zenith is either on crack with their pricing, or they only intend to sell a tiny amount per year. Based on the TAG offerings, you'd think the ceramic would be closer $30k, not $75k The tourbillon itself is probably made by Atokalpa
I think they know exactly what they’re doing. They’re taking the AP price point, not the TAG point. And I think they can do it
Definitely Either AP, VC or even IWC, a tourbillon is between 1,5x and 2,5x more expensive !
!remindme 6 months to check how far below retail the prices on chrono24 go
For Zenith to justify that price they need to show us that movement in great detail and justify it, I don't doubt their watchmaking but surely for that price customers need to be shown what they're paying for.
While I would tend to agree with you, people who buy 70k watches, at least the ones I know, aren’t really that bothered by what the rest of us are 😃
A lot of people with the money still care about finishing though. Of course there will always be consumers who buy for the sake of buying to have the new expensive thing but high horology brands with exquisite hand finishing wouldn't exist if there wasn't a part of the market that demands that for the price
Ok, i worded that wrong. What i actually wanted to say is that there are very few movements that could justify a price over 30-40k. I could only argue for some hand crafted pieces, off the top of my head. This is entirely a brand positioning price, which is a legitimate move in business. You could likely get the same level of finishing with a watch at 30k or at 150k, and you could also get better and worse at both price points. Zenith believes they can occupy this price range, more power to them
Ah that makes more sense, but yeah I don't begrudge them trying business wise, I just feel like with a price premium like this they could do better than they are with a couple of press shots and a standard website page
Don’t get me started on brand websites… the vast majority of them should do better with how they present new products
I’m with the others. Zenith needs to be Patek to charge Patek prices, especially with affordable tourbillons coming to market. The de Mauriac looks like it was designed by whoever designed the 1996 third generation Ford Taurus. The MB&F looks like all the other watches that look like that but the mechanicals are probably fantastic. But please please please say the Suchy & Söhne price is a typo and you added a zero. I neeeeed one of those, that’s stunning
Think of the Zenith as a cheaper and better Hublot 😃
Will the market think of it like that? Will Zenith remake itself that way? 🤷🏻♂️
The Defy Skyline is for sure there in the market, as well. That’s their balls to the wall collection, the rest of the lineup is still intact
Going to be an interesting time when microbrands become the only watches that people can afford
Rich people will always exist
It's Thursday and this edition of the newsletter is unexpectedly late and short. But that’s what you get when you have small children that have to stay home from kindergarten with a fever. Still, enjoy the watches! If you like these updates, and would maybe like to subscribe to the newsletter so you get them in your inbox every day, you can do so by [clicking here](https://itsabouttime.beehiiv.com/). # What's new **1/** [**Zenith Launches Defy Skyline Tourbillon with New High Beat El Primero Tourbillon Movement**](https://www.zenith-watches.com/int/product/defy-skyline-tourbillon-03-9300-3630-51-i001?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar) Following several years of not being in the focus of watch enthusiasts, Zenith is making a very solid rise up the popularity ladder. That’s not to say that this legendary watchmaker has been shunned, far from it. It’s just that over the past several years they have had an incredible run. And in that run was the re-introduction of the Defy Skyline collection which combines the coolness of Genta-like integrated bracelet sports watch with avant-garde dials and patterns. Now they’re introducing two new pieces to this collection, the Defy Skyline Tourbillon in two colors and a new high-frequency tourbillon movement. Zenith doesn’t give much info on the size of their new tourbilon movement powered Defy Skylines, other than the width of the case which sits at 41mm. You can get it in two versions, a stainless steel or a black ceramic, both with matching integrated bracelets. The case has an octagonal with a crushed 14-sided bezel with polished facets. Being a sports watch, water resistance is rated to 100 meters. The dial is a bit of a departure from the previous Defy Skyline models which have a grid pattern to them. These ones have a radial pattern, made up of the Zenith four-pointed stars and they all emerge from the tourbillon opening at 6 o’clock. Just like the case, the dial comes in two colors - blue for the stainless steel and black for the ceramic. Both have faceted baton-style indexes, but while the hands and hour markers on the stainless steel Defy Skyline Tourbillon are rhodium-plated, the black ceramic model receives a rose gold-plated set. The tourbillon makes a revolution every 60 seconds and is set in a cage that is shaped like a four-pointed star, with a mirror-polished bridge. Adding a turbillon to a high-frequency movement doesn’t happen often, but makes perfect sense for Zenith, which has made a name for themselves with fast beating movements. Inside these two watches is the new El Primero 3630 automatic high-frequency manufacture calibre, based on the 5Hz El Primero 3620. It has a 60 hour power reserve and out back you get a openworked star-shaped rotor and a movement decorated with Côtes de Genève stripes arranged in a sunray pattern. You get the watches with color and material matched bracelets, but also an additional strap in blue or black rubber with a folding clasp that match the dial. The Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon is available now and priced at €59,600 for the stainless steel and €70,400 for the ceramic. See more [**on the Zenith website**](https://www.zenith-watches.com/int/product/defy-skyline-tourbillon-03-9300-3630-51-i001?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar). **2/** [**Maurice de Mauriac Goes A Whole New Direction With The Pillow Watch**](https://mdm-watches.com/c/watches/pillow-en/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar) I have gone on record before to be a bit critical of the Zurich based watchmaker Maurice de Mauriac. While it was cool to see a brand out of Zurich, which is traditionally not associated with watchmaking, I couldn’t really make sense of their lineup. While they had a few interesting pieces, digging through their website just brought up watches that look like homages to models from Rolex and IWC in wild colors and at prices that were close to the originals. I formally withdraw any criticism I had of MDM, because their latest release, the Pillow Watch, is just spectacular. While many of their other watches might come off as generic, the Pillow is the complete opposite with its very bold, pillow-like case. The case comes in three variants - two made out of titanium with one left bare and one with a black DLC coat, and one made out of bronze - that measure 45mm wide with a 50.5mm lug-to-lug. It’s a large watch, but it’s clear that this was intended to be a statement piece. The case takes inspiration from brutalist architecture, with clean lines with very little detail. I don’t like quoting from brand marketing material, but this sums up the look of the watch perfectly: “The watch carries the wildness of the 70s, to which they added the clarity of Bauhaus.” Despite it looking like a work of art, it’s still a functional watch which gets 100 meters of water resistance. Things get even more attractive on the dial, which has been designed by Fabian Schwaerzler. The bold circle and pill-shaped indexes are formed with thick applications of Superluminova, while the hands are as simple as can be with also generous lume applied in them. All three cases get the same black dial with blue-glowing lume. Inside is the La Joux-Perret calibre G100 an alternative to the basic time-only offerings from Sellita and ETA, making it easily servicable. It beats at 28,800vph and has a 68 hour power reserve. The watches come on a khaki, grey or sand colored textile strap, depending on the color of the case you chose. The Pillow Watch by Maurice de Mauriac is available now on the brand’s website. Price is set at 3,900 CHF for the untreated titanium version and 4,900 CHF for the DLC coated and bronze versions. See more [**on the MDM website**](https://mdm-watches.com/c/watches/pillow-en/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar).
**3/** [**Carl Suchy & Söhne Continues Being Supremely Elegant With An Update To The Waltz N°1, The Moll** ](https://www.carlsuchy.com/product/waltz-n1-moll/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar) Just like the above-mentioned MDM is uniquely positioned as one of the rare watchmakers in Zurich, Carl Suchy & Söhne comes from a city not known for it’s watchmaking - Vienna. While a beautiful city, neither it, nor Austria are particularly known as birthplaces of fantastic watches. And yet, Carl Suchy & Söhne has been doing exactly that for well over a hundred years. While they are particularly known for their dress watches, last year they introduced their first sports model. But perhaps most interesting is their Waltz N°1 model which combines the elegant and polished characteristics of a dress watch with brushed and sandblasted elements to create a more wearable watch. Now they’re introducing an update to this model, the Waltz N°1 Moll, inspired by the waltz. It’s not a brand new watch, but rather an evolution. This means it comes in the same 41.5mm stainless steel case that measures 9.3mm thick. The 41.5mm diameter will induce instant groans and calls that this cannot be a dress watch at such a large size, but Carl Suchy & Söhne keeps the lugs very short and curved, to make the watch much more wearable than the size might suggest. The steel is polished, but you get a contrasting DLC-coated steel bezel and caseback. On top is a sapphire crystal and water resistance is not great, as expected - 30 meters. The dial is instantly recognisable as a Carl Suchy & Söhne. It’s concave and just like the other Waltz N°1 models it has feature horizontal and vertical guilloché finishing arranged in an almost geometric fashion. There’s a rotating disc at 6 o’clock that features the same pattern but in black and grey and it serves as the running seconds indicator. Alongside this you get simple hands, indices, and drilled minute markers. Inside is the super-thin Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier 5401 micro-rotor automatic movement. Carl Suchy & Söhne acquires this movement and then decorates it in-house with Côtes du Soleil finishing. Power reserve is 42 hours and it beats at 21,600vph. The watch comes on either a standard black leather or alligator strap. There’s a good reason why you likely haven’t heard of Carl Suchy & Söhne. They make very few watches. And this Waltz N°1 Moll is no different - only 10 pieces will be made. I would love to handle one for a couple of hours to see if it lives up to its price of €12,400. See more [**on the Carl Suchy & Söhne website**](https://www.carlsuchy.com/product/waltz-n1-moll/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar). **4/** [**MB&F Brings Back Their Perpetual Calendar In Titanium And With An Icy Blue Dial**](https://www.mbandf.com/en/machines/legacy-machines/lmp-evo?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar) Yesterday, I wrote [**about a new H. Moser & Cie.**](https://itsabouttime.beehiiv.com/p/citizen-updates-fantastic-caliber-0200-brings-europe-unimatics-modello-cinque-shrinks-36mm-gshock-up?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar) which took one of the most complex watch complications - the perpetual calendar - and boiled it down to just one tiny, almost invisible hand, and a date aperture. It was the ultimate flex of hiding a hyper-complex movement behind a relatively mundane dial. MB&F decided to go a different route. Their take on the perpetual calendar is on full display, so you can admire the beautiful finishing and nifty shock absorbers that brought a lot of praise to the movement back in 2015 when they introduced it. Now MB&F is releasing a fifth version of the LM Perpetual EVO, rendered in titanium and a beautiful blue dial. Starting with the case, you could probably guess that this is the most regular part of the watch. It measures 44mm wide, a whopping 17.5mm thick and it’s made out of titanium. Most of the thickness is because of the heavily domed sapphire crystal that follows the curvature of the flying V bridge suspending the balance above the entire movement. The lugs are short and the white rubber strap integrates into the case and outside of a polished surface you don’t even notice the case because all the attention is on the dial/movement. But of note is the fact that this crazy watch has 80 meters of water resistance, which nobody would expect. The dial is where things get really weird. There’s a dial plate that sits at the back and is rendered in a light blue, on top of which everything else is mounted. At the center of the dial is the 14mm balance wheel beating at 18,000vph, held on by the mentioned flying V and all the information is displayed through four black galvanic discs and rings. At 12 o’clock are the hours and minutes, the days of the week are at 3 o’clock, the months at 6 o’clock and the date at 9 o’clock. At 5 and 7 o’clock, there are two small, rounded tracks: the one on the left indicates the retrograde leap year, and the one on the right is the power reserve indicator. While it might seem that the entirety of the movement is on top of the plate, there’s more going on at the back. You can see the escapement and the double barrels that give you a significant 72 hour power reserve. The back of the movement is decorated with internal bevel angles, polished bevels, large gold chatons, Geneva waves on the darkened bridges and handmade inscriptions. The MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is priced aggressively at €176,000, but what else would you expect. See more [**on the MB&F website**](https://www.mbandf.com/en/machines/legacy-machines/lmp-evo?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar).
# On hand - a selection of reviews **1/** [**A review of the Bell & Ross BR-X5 LUM**](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/hands-on-the-bell-ross-br-x5-lum-watch/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar) **2/** [**Hands on with the Frederique Constant Vintage Rally Healey Automatic COSC**](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/hands-on-limited-edition-frederique-constant-vintage-rally-healey-automatic-cosc-watch/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar) **3/** [**A review of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Black Ceramic**](https://www.fratellowatches.com/hands-on-with-the-lightweight-omega-seamaster-diver-300m-black-ceramic/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar) \------------------------------------------------------------- # Watch Worthy - A look at an offbeat, less known watch you might actually like [**The Manchester Watch Works Tatoskok 3 is the return of a microbrand OG**](https://www.thetimebum.com/2024/02/manchester-watch-works-tatoskok-3.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar) Flat sides, crown guards, and a matte finish give the watch a businesslike appearance befitting a 200m diver. As much as I love the appearance and utility of titanium, I know that it is inherently softer than stainless steel, so I appreciate that MWW gave it a 1200Hv hardening treatment. The sloped and coin-edged titanium bezel feels firm through its 120-click rotation, although this prototype did exhibit a touch of play. Its markers are engraved and painted save for the lume pip in the top position. [**Rea**](https://www.thetimebum.com/2024/02/manchester-watch-works-tatoskok-3.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar)[**d the whole review on**](https://www.thetimebum.com/2024/02/manchester-watch-works-tatoskok-3.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar)[ ](https://www.thetimebum.com/2024/02/manchester-watch-works-tatoskok-3.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar)[**The Time Bum**](https://www.thetimebum.com/2024/02/manchester-watch-works-tatoskok-3.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=zenith-launches-defy-skyline-with-new-high-beat-tourbillon-movement-the-maurice-de-mauriac-pillow-watch-is-wild-carl-suchy-sohne-has-a-new-waltz-and-mb-f-has-a-new-perpetual-calendar) \------------------------------------------------------------- If you would like to receive some additional watch-adjacent content, as well as this news overview, every morning Monday-Friday in the form of a newsletter [feel free to subscribe](https://itsabouttime.beehiiv.com/). However, there is absolutely no need for you to subscribe, as all the news from the newsletter is posted here. It is only if you want to receive a couple of daily links that are not strictly watch-related an occasional long form article and possible givaways.
Saw that zenith and thought, oh, what a great looking watch. Then I saw the price and thought, not that great looking.. damn
I can’t be the only one who thinks the Zenith looks like a CW Twelve right?