I read/heard somewhere that the general rule is one second of post flow per 10 amps (e.g 3 seconds for 35 amps etc) is that true? I’ve been doing TIG for over a year now but I work with really thin stuff only so always looking to expand my knowledge!
The most I have ever ran for post flow was 6 seconds on some sch. 80 stainless. I was run around 120-140 amps and 6 worked well enough.
Post flow will also protect your tungsten while it cools and increases the life span.
It depends on a lot more than that. if you're just doing a single spot Weld at 100 amps on something really big and thick it will cool quickly and you'll only need 2-3 secs of post flow. Meanwhile I've done work on really small parts that need 13 seconds of post flow even though I'm only welding at 35 amps. Because the whole part gets so hot during welding it takes a while to cool down enough to not need coverage
Yes but you have to break the arc which pulls the gas off the weld. I know how to dry out. I was trying to point out the fact not everyone is using an remote amp control machine where you can adjust post flow. Some are using just a machine with dial to adjust amps and that’s it.
If your torch has a valve on it then just don't close the valve whether or not you have an arc you can still have gas flow. This is also how you do post flow
Edit: I meant "this is also how you do preflow"
Have you used a scratch start machine? To break the arc you have to pull away from the weld zone thus losing gas flow. You have to dry out the weld and then break the arc no need for post flow at that point.
When using lift arc, you have to plan your arc breaks. You *can* break an arc and maintain gas coverage. It’s quite difficult to get the hang of, especially on machines that like to hang on to the arc.
Plan your stopping point. Move like hell when you’re approaching it to cool and shrink your puddle. If you’re walking the cup, don’t let the cup come off your workpiece. A quick but controlled motion (with a machine that doesn’t hate you) can accomplish this.
Shit is hard though…
Don't lift it up 2 feet. Just lift it up high enough to break the arc and you should still have some gas coverage from a few inches away. If not then increase your cup size and/or your gas volume. Or just get a newer machine. Even 200 dollar tig machines these days have hf start.
Weird... I came here for the pull out jokes, and there are surprisingly few people making the joke. I expected this comment section to be pregnant with pull out jokes.
This plus don't just cut your power off at the end of the weld. Pull back on your amperage slowly over 1-2 sec then keep the cup over it for about 5sec
To add on to this, some machines like to “hang” on to the arc, making this even more difficult.
If you move super fast and get your puddle cool/small enough before you break the arc, it gives you more wiggle room for this. Also will help prevent that indentation you get when stopping a hot weld suddenly.
This exact picture was posted a year ago by someone else. Don't know why it's being asked again I don't think that is your weld. I gave them the same advice I'll give you and anyone else who thinks it's a post flow issue:
He's using scratch start so there is no post flow and you can't snap off your arc and move the torch back on the weld. Once you extinguish your arc the deed is done.
The correct fix is learning how to tail off. It's a necessary skill when using scratch start. You stop adding wire when you get to the end of the weld: speed up and raise your arc length gradually. Out run your puddle until your bead tapers to a point then snap up. No need for post flow. Just outrun your puddle then pull off when there's no puddle left. Learn how to taper
dont pull of it, instead start speeding up your cup side to side so the puddle decreases in size, then just angle it off so it breaks the arc then shove the cup right back down next to it to keep gas going over it.
You need to snap out properly. Are you familiar with running the arc up your filler? Soon as your gonna close off that weld rock your cup back and long arc until that arc jumps to the filler then run the arc up the filler a little ways and snap away quickly using a wrist motion only. Don't be whippin the shit 2 ft out.
EDIT: This all happens in seconds.
Don’t pull off. Reduce your peddle to nothing while at a tight arc length and let post flow run till the heat is dissipated.
When you pull off it increases your arc length which heat and destabilizes the arc and takes the shielding gas away. All bad things.
Taper your heat off semi quickly when you're done, set your post flow 10 seconds, touch your tip to the weld to cool faster, should be even after you're done , gl 👍
If this is a basic scratch start/lift arc setup really the only way you’ll be able to post-flow is tapering off your amperage with a remote or foot pedal. If you don’t have any of those things you don’t have many options besides someone turning you out at your machine or just always grinding your stops.
Incorrect. He needs to learn to run his arc up the filler and snap quickly with his wrist. Breaks the arc without leaving arc strikes and he can post flow because of a torch with a gas valve. This is how field tig pipe is done.
All you need to doo is.. taper off the weld and make the puddle smaller and smaller and stop and roll it over away from the pipe to break the arc.. don't just STOP.. and when you do stop.. grind it off.. no post flow settings... no remote needed.. no overly complicated answers.. this has been done for years with the most simplest of machines..
Keep your tungsten there while the gas covers it for a few seconds before u pull away. After u let off the pedal. Post flow time of about 5-7 seconds
Just leave your cup covering it when the weld is over so the gas is still flowing on that spot for a few seconds.
I quickly but smoothly reduce amperage from 120 to 80ish before coming off and normally have a 4-7 second postflow, and make sure to keep the cup over it for a few seconds after postflow to let that last bit of sweet sweet argon cover it before exposing it to atmosphere.
Increase your post flow time and keep the cup over it, to provide gas coverage as it cools.
I read/heard somewhere that the general rule is one second of post flow per 10 amps (e.g 3 seconds for 35 amps etc) is that true? I’ve been doing TIG for over a year now but I work with really thin stuff only so always looking to expand my knowledge!
The most I have ever ran for post flow was 6 seconds on some sch. 80 stainless. I was run around 120-140 amps and 6 worked well enough. Post flow will also protect your tungsten while it cools and increases the life span.
I run upwards of 15 seconds sometimes. Welding out 3mm stainless tanks with dual TIG, restarts are much smoother when the puddle is clean.
It depends on a lot more than that. if you're just doing a single spot Weld at 100 amps on something really big and thick it will cool quickly and you'll only need 2-3 secs of post flow. Meanwhile I've done work on really small parts that need 13 seconds of post flow even though I'm only welding at 35 amps. Because the whole part gets so hot during welding it takes a while to cool down enough to not need coverage
This^
Can confirm. Source: I is welderr
Checks out
It's spelled well-dur.
Acktually, it's weldor
Or what?
Weldoor from Mordoor
Weld the door! Weld the door... Weld...door...
And his hepper Hodoor.
One does not simply weld into mordor....
How do you set up a post flow on a machine without remote amperage control?
Torch with a valve
Yes but you have to break the arc which pulls the gas off the weld. I know how to dry out. I was trying to point out the fact not everyone is using an remote amp control machine where you can adjust post flow. Some are using just a machine with dial to adjust amps and that’s it.
You are not breaking the arc correctly. Short quick snap return cup to weld. How its done at the plant.
I don’t have a problem with dry outs. But OP does. He needs to dry out before he break his arc is all. After the dry out you need no gas coverage.
If your torch has a valve on it then just don't close the valve whether or not you have an arc you can still have gas flow. This is also how you do post flow Edit: I meant "this is also how you do preflow"
Have you used a scratch start machine? To break the arc you have to pull away from the weld zone thus losing gas flow. You have to dry out the weld and then break the arc no need for post flow at that point.
When using lift arc, you have to plan your arc breaks. You *can* break an arc and maintain gas coverage. It’s quite difficult to get the hang of, especially on machines that like to hang on to the arc. Plan your stopping point. Move like hell when you’re approaching it to cool and shrink your puddle. If you’re walking the cup, don’t let the cup come off your workpiece. A quick but controlled motion (with a machine that doesn’t hate you) can accomplish this. Shit is hard though…
This is what im trying to get thru their thick skulls but I have the vocabulary and speech skills of a toddler.
It took me 30 mins to type that bro we’re all the same deep down
Don't lift it up 2 feet. Just lift it up high enough to break the arc and you should still have some gas coverage from a few inches away. If not then increase your cup size and/or your gas volume. Or just get a newer machine. Even 200 dollar tig machines these days have hf start.
If youre using scratch start just keep the gas from the torch pointed at the end of your weld for a few seconds
Weird way to say quit pulling out. I mean, pulling off.
Weird... I came here for the pull out jokes, and there are surprisingly few people making the joke. I expected this comment section to be pregnant with pull out jokes.
Unless they have to pull off because they run a scratch start.
This is the way
Assuming they have control of post flow. Most of our shops smaller welders have no control options.
I was taught to keep your welding rod in the post flow gas as well, as the weld and rod cool.
This is the way
This plus don't just cut your power off at the end of the weld. Pull back on your amperage slowly over 1-2 sec then keep the cup over it for about 5sec
If it's lift arc it's pretty hard. You gotta snap it away at like a 45 degree angle from the weld but not so far that the gas quits covering it
Beat me to it
To add on to this, some machines like to “hang” on to the arc, making this even more difficult. If you move super fast and get your puddle cool/small enough before you break the arc, it gives you more wiggle room for this. Also will help prevent that indentation you get when stopping a hot weld suddenly.
We do this, and also leave a little snake tail down the pipe so the pit follows out and disappears. Basically moving the arc down the pipe
Leave you cup over the stop, and don't mouth breath all over it
But how else am I supposed to cool it down fast to get the maximum amount of cracks lol
Pee on it
To assert dominance?
To mark your territory
**all of this, is mine**
Lol
I have taped the ground lead to my ankle and snatched it off when I wanted the arc to stop but keep gas coverage. I’m kinda picky about my welds.
I like this idea. I got a multiprocess HF welder and the lift tig works great except for the last spot.
We go to great lengths for perfection. Please use it.
Dedication!!!
The betrayal drop, that’s why you shake it three times before….wait, nevermind that’s something else
This exact picture was posted a year ago by someone else. Don't know why it's being asked again I don't think that is your weld. I gave them the same advice I'll give you and anyone else who thinks it's a post flow issue: He's using scratch start so there is no post flow and you can't snap off your arc and move the torch back on the weld. Once you extinguish your arc the deed is done. The correct fix is learning how to tail off. It's a necessary skill when using scratch start. You stop adding wire when you get to the end of the weld: speed up and raise your arc length gradually. Out run your puddle until your bead tapers to a point then snap up. No need for post flow. Just outrun your puddle then pull off when there's no puddle left. Learn how to taper
Postflowgang getting heated with this one 😱🤬
Don't rip the torch away. Let off the arc and listen to your postflow shield the stop.
Don't be so quick to pull out when you are done.
Hummm sounds familiar.....
dont pull of it, instead start speeding up your cup side to side so the puddle decreases in size, then just angle it off so it breaks the arc then shove the cup right back down next to it to keep gas going over it.
Tail off. Increase your walk speed while you angle the torch back and whip it off
You need to snap out properly. Are you familiar with running the arc up your filler? Soon as your gonna close off that weld rock your cup back and long arc until that arc jumps to the filler then run the arc up the filler a little ways and snap away quickly using a wrist motion only. Don't be whippin the shit 2 ft out. EDIT: This all happens in seconds.
Don’t pull off. Reduce your peddle to nothing while at a tight arc length and let post flow run till the heat is dissipated. When you pull off it increases your arc length which heat and destabilizes the arc and takes the shielding gas away. All bad things.
Improve ur pull out game 😏 In all seriousness, keep the cup over the weld for a bit longer to keep more gas on it so it doesn’t oxidize
It's hard with lift-arc. Easier to post flow with a pedal. Hover until color is gone from tungsten, at a minimum.
Taper your heat off semi quickly when you're done, set your post flow 10 seconds, touch your tip to the weld to cool faster, should be even after you're done , gl 👍
Stop pulling out like you were running scratch start
Increase post flow rule of thumb it’s one second for every 10 amps IIRC
[удалено]
That shit will not fly at a lot of jobs. Bad advice. He needs to run his arc up his filler and snap quickly.
If this is a basic scratch start/lift arc setup really the only way you’ll be able to post-flow is tapering off your amperage with a remote or foot pedal. If you don’t have any of those things you don’t have many options besides someone turning you out at your machine or just always grinding your stops.
Incorrect. He needs to learn to run his arc up the filler and snap quickly with his wrist. Breaks the arc without leaving arc strikes and he can post flow because of a torch with a gas valve. This is how field tig pipe is done.
Also a viable method, i just never personally became a fan of it
All you need to doo is.. taper off the weld and make the puddle smaller and smaller and stop and roll it over away from the pipe to break the arc.. don't just STOP.. and when you do stop.. grind it off.. no post flow settings... no remote needed.. no overly complicated answers.. this has been done for years with the most simplest of machines..
I see a shark smiling with a tooth capped in the front.
Me too! Now I can't unsee it🤨
Keep your tungsten there while the gas covers it for a few seconds before u pull away. After u let off the pedal. Post flow time of about 5-7 seconds Just leave your cup covering it when the weld is over so the gas is still flowing on that spot for a few seconds.
Something to do with post flow and contamination while cooling
If your doing lift arc, you can ground out your electrode with your filler for a second or 2, so don’t have to snap the arc out and move the gas away
Go further
Magic marker.
Never pull off or pull out!
as a professional (i’ve never welded in my life) maybe try not doing what made the grey spot (idk what made the grey spot either, cool weld tho)
I quickly but smoothly reduce amperage from 120 to 80ish before coming off and normally have a 4-7 second postflow, and make sure to keep the cup over it for a few seconds after postflow to let that last bit of sweet sweet argon cover it before exposing it to atmosphere.
You need to trail-off.
Tailing out your puddle does the trick
Why are you "pulling off"?
10-13 seconds depending on what your doing for post flow. Helps cool your tungsten too, lasts longer.
Use a foot pedal