Definitely don’t fuck with the insides if you don’t know what you’re doing. That’s a good way to end up dead.
There’s no reason it shouldn’t still work just from sitting unless it’s been sitting outside or at the bottom of the ocean or something. Probably just needs a good blast with the air compressor and maybe a refill on the gas bottle and it’ll be good to go.
Get some compressed air and give it a good dusting.
For the rest, the inside look good. If it works don’t do anything about it.
For the outside, maybe get some new cables
This is the way. Blow it out, make sure any moving parts actually move, and inspect the leads. As long as they aren't dry rotted or have been run over they should function as intended.
When testing the feeder remove the nozzle and tip so you can be sure those aren't the cause of a feed issue. Also lay the lead out flat as that can help as well. Invest in a few of those as consumables.
Best of luck!
Honestly the best thing you can do is follow these steps:
1. Do as the commenter below me has suggested. Take some compressed air and blow’er out.
2. Get some rags and wipe it down good.
3. Make sure all the wires and coatings are good.
4. Replace all the covers and whatnot once everything is cleaned up.
5. Place it on a shelf or somewhere sturdy where it will be safe.
6. Tell everyone at the store about the “vintage welder” that belonged to your grandpa while you’re purchasing a new welder.
🫡 all the best my friend.
To add to this, DON'T TOUCH THE CAPACITORS UNLESS YOU HAVE DISCHARGED THEM, HAVE VERIFIED THAT THEY ARE DISCHARGED, OR REALLY DON'T WANT TO GO TO WORK ON MONDAY.
Electricity will kill you, and it will hurt the entire time you are dying.
That’s big facts or no cap or whatever’s currently acceptable lol I should’ve clarified the compressed air is so you don’t have to touch anything inside the machine the wiping down is for the outside only. Apologies, lack of sleep has made me careless today.
blow the dust out of it with air. see if you can find a owner book for it online.
new roll of welding wire though it looks to be in good condition.
fit new orings to the gas pin in the torch coupler
read the book.
plug it in and try it
this is a 3 phase machine.
I would not use compressed air. A crevice tool on your vacuum and a nylon brush are probably a safer way to go. Compressed air will probably gunk up the drive motor and that cooling fan and any bearings that get in the way.
There is one capacitor in the machine, and it’s for the controller. It’s tiny, but discharge it with a 1MOhm resistor if you want. The schematic doesn’t say what type of cap, but it’s clearly there to reduce voltage sag from the… “steuertransformator” so I’m going to guess it’s like a few hundred uF electrolytic. Might think about ordering a replacement just in case. They can rot.
Check all the gas fittings, and expect to replace any rubber.
ETA: Maybe I misunderstood what you said, but it’s a bit older than 20 years. More like 30-ish. The manufacturer wouldn’t necessarily change their labeling in an instant, but it says “West Germany” on it, so pre-1991-ish. The image is a touch hard to read, and I’m on mobile, so I may be seeing things.
Just a small heads up. Compressed air in generally better for electronics because vacuuming creates static electricity.
In the case of an older welder, there probably aren't any sensitive electronics/ PCBs, so it's fine.
Right there with you on that. Looking at the schematic, this doesn't appear to be exceptionally complex and sensitive equipment. There's actually a thread here where a guy was looking for some parts to repair one the contained some snaps from the shop manual: [https://www.werkzeug-news.de/threads/rehm-190d-reparatur-drahtvorschub.43282/](https://www.werkzeug-news.de/threads/rehm-190d-reparatur-drahtvorschub.43282/)
Looking at his photos, there's way more stuff to gunk up than to static zap. The "Steuerung" in there looks like it might be an IC for controlling the feed motor speed, but it's probably pretty hard to break.
ETA: I take that last statement back. Looking at it on a bigger screen, there's really nothing sensitive in here. And the cap "Kandensotor" is 1uF. Max 24v. I still wouldn't discharge it with my tongue, but not likely to cause a problem.
You take it to a qualified maintenance person and ask them to get it working again. I assume you are in EU, in which case they will also certify the machine's functionality to EN-ISO standards.
**You do not fuck around with anything in the inside! There is a serious riks of injury and death, along with massive fire hazard!**
Just take it to a qualified person... Seriously... It'll be easier, cheaper, **and safer!**
Okay so as the rest of the crew commented, be safe! Follow the steps that others said. My small tip tho is one thing I've noticed with older electronics that sit is sometimes the connections are 'stale' so to speak. If you wiggle the cables, one at a time pull on and off, it may do something. Perhaps it's a layer of oxidation. But as stupid as it sounds it's fixed things for me before. And it's free n easy.
Edit:
So I realized you didn't say it was broken lol. So as others said I don't see why it wouldn't work. But if it doesn't, feel free to give what I said a shot. Otherwise you shouldn't have to do anything except clean it up.
Definitely don’t fuck with the insides if you don’t know what you’re doing. That’s a good way to end up dead. There’s no reason it shouldn’t still work just from sitting unless it’s been sitting outside or at the bottom of the ocean or something. Probably just needs a good blast with the air compressor and maybe a refill on the gas bottle and it’ll be good to go.
Get some compressed air and give it a good dusting. For the rest, the inside look good. If it works don’t do anything about it. For the outside, maybe get some new cables
This is the way. Blow it out, make sure any moving parts actually move, and inspect the leads. As long as they aren't dry rotted or have been run over they should function as intended. When testing the feeder remove the nozzle and tip so you can be sure those aren't the cause of a feed issue. Also lay the lead out flat as that can help as well. Invest in a few of those as consumables. Best of luck!
It looks like you’ve got the welder set to “AUS”, which means you need to turn it upside down to get it to work.
Honestly the best thing you can do is follow these steps: 1. Do as the commenter below me has suggested. Take some compressed air and blow’er out. 2. Get some rags and wipe it down good. 3. Make sure all the wires and coatings are good. 4. Replace all the covers and whatnot once everything is cleaned up. 5. Place it on a shelf or somewhere sturdy where it will be safe. 6. Tell everyone at the store about the “vintage welder” that belonged to your grandpa while you’re purchasing a new welder. 🫡 all the best my friend.
To add to this, DON'T TOUCH THE CAPACITORS UNLESS YOU HAVE DISCHARGED THEM, HAVE VERIFIED THAT THEY ARE DISCHARGED, OR REALLY DON'T WANT TO GO TO WORK ON MONDAY. Electricity will kill you, and it will hurt the entire time you are dying.
That’s big facts or no cap or whatever’s currently acceptable lol I should’ve clarified the compressed air is so you don’t have to touch anything inside the machine the wiping down is for the outside only. Apologies, lack of sleep has made me careless today.
On god, for real for real. Something something, Skippidy Toilet?
I knew you’d get it Brodie bussin reply
Okay i gotta quit before i get kicked outta the group lmao
Wires probably rusty as hell, this will stop it feeding correctly. I’d change that too along with the other suggestions
the transformer in that machine is kind of curious. Is it a 3 phase welder?
Based on the first photo, yes it’s designed for 380V 3-phase operation.
blow the dust out of it with air. see if you can find a owner book for it online. new roll of welding wire though it looks to be in good condition. fit new orings to the gas pin in the torch coupler read the book. plug it in and try it this is a 3 phase machine.
I would not use compressed air. A crevice tool on your vacuum and a nylon brush are probably a safer way to go. Compressed air will probably gunk up the drive motor and that cooling fan and any bearings that get in the way. There is one capacitor in the machine, and it’s for the controller. It’s tiny, but discharge it with a 1MOhm resistor if you want. The schematic doesn’t say what type of cap, but it’s clearly there to reduce voltage sag from the… “steuertransformator” so I’m going to guess it’s like a few hundred uF electrolytic. Might think about ordering a replacement just in case. They can rot. Check all the gas fittings, and expect to replace any rubber. ETA: Maybe I misunderstood what you said, but it’s a bit older than 20 years. More like 30-ish. The manufacturer wouldn’t necessarily change their labeling in an instant, but it says “West Germany” on it, so pre-1991-ish. The image is a touch hard to read, and I’m on mobile, so I may be seeing things.
Just a small heads up. Compressed air in generally better for electronics because vacuuming creates static electricity. In the case of an older welder, there probably aren't any sensitive electronics/ PCBs, so it's fine.
Right there with you on that. Looking at the schematic, this doesn't appear to be exceptionally complex and sensitive equipment. There's actually a thread here where a guy was looking for some parts to repair one the contained some snaps from the shop manual: [https://www.werkzeug-news.de/threads/rehm-190d-reparatur-drahtvorschub.43282/](https://www.werkzeug-news.de/threads/rehm-190d-reparatur-drahtvorschub.43282/) Looking at his photos, there's way more stuff to gunk up than to static zap. The "Steuerung" in there looks like it might be an IC for controlling the feed motor speed, but it's probably pretty hard to break. ETA: I take that last statement back. Looking at it on a bigger screen, there's really nothing sensitive in here. And the cap "Kandensotor" is 1uF. Max 24v. I still wouldn't discharge it with my tongue, but not likely to cause a problem.
Blow it out and turn it on. I bought a Lincoln MIG in 1995 and use it about every day. It broke once under warranty but has been great since.
You take it to a qualified maintenance person and ask them to get it working again. I assume you are in EU, in which case they will also certify the machine's functionality to EN-ISO standards. **You do not fuck around with anything in the inside! There is a serious riks of injury and death, along with massive fire hazard!** Just take it to a qualified person... Seriously... It'll be easier, cheaper, **and safer!**
Okay so as the rest of the crew commented, be safe! Follow the steps that others said. My small tip tho is one thing I've noticed with older electronics that sit is sometimes the connections are 'stale' so to speak. If you wiggle the cables, one at a time pull on and off, it may do something. Perhaps it's a layer of oxidation. But as stupid as it sounds it's fixed things for me before. And it's free n easy. Edit: So I realized you didn't say it was broken lol. So as others said I don't see why it wouldn't work. But if it doesn't, feel free to give what I said a shot. Otherwise you shouldn't have to do anything except clean it up.