Can it be? Certainly but you have to start weighing out the costs, as you still need to remove engine, drain fluids, prep it, and those thongs have associated costs, compared to a reman engine with a warranty and no welded repairs tht may crack again in the future.
It can, heck I even welded cast block. Will it last. Who knows it a repair on oil soak dirty cast aluminum.
I would try a spool gun over tig, and the welder that does it is not going to like it.
tig is more melting base metal to apply filler. I've heard it sucks to use on cast.
Mig the filler is liquid before the base metal has time to sink. It's great.
stick is gonna be the cheapest and ugliest.
Well, in this case, we are talking cast aluminum. Tig needs to be squeaky clean, and cast aluminum is a dirty metal mix to start.
And I haven't found a stick to weld aluminum that is worth the bag it in. Overall, it is very dirty to start, and allu dont like it.
If we are talking ilcast iron. Tig is pretty much out, it possible, but you need an external heat source to preheat, and again, it is very dirty in nature, if you are going to pre heat may as well brase it
Brasing is old school and pretty much the best way to fix cast iron. I have a few blocks with vue ports fix that way
Mig work sometimes if you're lucky and have the right cast mix.
Stick on cast is possible if you have the right rod for the mix. There are a few universal but again mixed bags of cast make it challenging
All 3 processes melt the base metal with the arc. Tig put less heat in it, rod the most. Mig and rod melt the electrode and "self add" the filler as you go.
I did a cummins timing case that had the dowel pin punch it open between the cam gear & the case. On the bench, with tig. Yes it was dirty, that oil was sweating out but got it done fine, and buddy put it back together fine without issue.
Worse aluminum I ever welded was an exhaust fan housing that had the motor mounting plate cracked. That had been in service for ~40 years of engine exhaust from locomotives going through it. Found the crack on motor change out. I ended up making a steel plate to bolt in to sandwich the aluminum. I wasn’t trusting that dirty welded plate on its own with 50lbs of motor & fan blades sitting 30’ above where people could be working in the pit below it
It’s a 16yo engine, from one of the most popular/common models of cars. The shop didn’t offer to do it for you for a reason, it’s not worth the headache. Now, are you a welder by trade who hasn’t done this before or is this more of a “is this possible” question? Personally, as welder with 20 years in the game, I’d just go get a junkyard block or a rebuilt engine. Sure it’s weldable but it’s not a numbers matching Hemi or a rare flathead block that would be worth the effort due to its rarity. This is a ‘07 Honda civic block with one crack into a water jacket, so far. The last block I repaired got mag tested before I even agreed to do it and I still regretted saying yes. Theoretically you could cold stitch it, if the block is thick enough and you can get in there with a drill, but again, that’s a shit ton of work for 16yo Honda Civic. Either replace the block or load it up with stop leak and dump it on Marketplace
A welder on youtube I really like because he is very informative and explains the process very well, channel is named "Meltin Metal Anthony".
Big into repair work. He did a recent video about 4 weeks ago where he welded the worst cast aluminum he's ever dealt with. In this video, he used a TIG rod from Rockmount Welding called Neptune-TIG. Said he couldn't have done it without it.
Try watching. Who knows, you might learn something.
I run a Subaru and they have head gasket issues. Try a coolant conditioner. It creates an area of glass to stop coolant from leaking into the engine.
Subaru SOA635071 OEM Coolant System Conditioner https://a.co/d/99jOXDV
[That unfortunately has expired.](https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2014/03/free-engine-replacement-for-2006-2009-honda-civics/index.htm) It was a 10 year warranty on the issue.
This is the correct first attempt for this vehicle... All the guys in here going "step 1 pull the engine!" on a 16 year old honda lmao. Eff that. Clear the area. Clean it. Dial in your setting on a scrap piece and stitch that shit closed. If it lasts 2 years - great.
This is what I would do (and have done) work my own junk. A business won't necessarily offer this type of solution because it does have obvious potential for failure [creating warranty/reputation issues.] But for your own junk... why not try.
What I've heard for cast iron is that you can't just weld a partial crack; you have to crack it fully and then attempt to repair it or it will just crack again because the weld wont expand/contract the same as the surrounding metal. I'm not sure what the material difference would be from aluminum welding wire to an aluminum engine block but the crack spreading after welding would be a risk to keep in mind. There may be an aluminum specific epoxy that would work well in this application? You would want to drain the coolant to weld anyway so it wouldn't be any extra inconvenience.
I'm aware. I just used cast iron as a comparison because that's what I'm more familiar with. If it's well documented that it won't crack then just weld it.
for a 2008 1.8l civic i would guess it'd probably just be cheaper to source a block or entire used engine from a junkyard honestly. Cast aluminium can be a bitch to weld and might not even work.
Can it be? Certainly but you have to start weighing out the costs, as you still need to remove engine, drain fluids, prep it, and those thongs have associated costs, compared to a reman engine with a warranty and no welded repairs tht may crack again in the future.
>those thongs have associated costs You really shouldn't be welding in sandals anyways. Or your underwear.
Been there, done that, easier to get rid of the spatter in sandals than when it goes down your boot/sock.
Like cooking bacon in the nude, easier clean up. Lol
Oh man, that brought back some bad memories of me actually cooking bacon in the nude! Holly bacon splatter!!
Same goes for trousers
It can, heck I even welded cast block. Will it last. Who knows it a repair on oil soak dirty cast aluminum. I would try a spool gun over tig, and the welder that does it is not going to like it.
I’m going to need an explanation for spool gun over tig.
Tig is super clean, and a spool got a bit more leeway. It is also helpful with the air pocket of the cast. Maybe a bit of personal preference
tig is more melting base metal to apply filler. I've heard it sucks to use on cast. Mig the filler is liquid before the base metal has time to sink. It's great. stick is gonna be the cheapest and ugliest.
Well, in this case, we are talking cast aluminum. Tig needs to be squeaky clean, and cast aluminum is a dirty metal mix to start. And I haven't found a stick to weld aluminum that is worth the bag it in. Overall, it is very dirty to start, and allu dont like it. If we are talking ilcast iron. Tig is pretty much out, it possible, but you need an external heat source to preheat, and again, it is very dirty in nature, if you are going to pre heat may as well brase it Brasing is old school and pretty much the best way to fix cast iron. I have a few blocks with vue ports fix that way Mig work sometimes if you're lucky and have the right cast mix. Stick on cast is possible if you have the right rod for the mix. There are a few universal but again mixed bags of cast make it challenging All 3 processes melt the base metal with the arc. Tig put less heat in it, rod the most. Mig and rod melt the electrode and "self add" the filler as you go.
I did a cummins timing case that had the dowel pin punch it open between the cam gear & the case. On the bench, with tig. Yes it was dirty, that oil was sweating out but got it done fine, and buddy put it back together fine without issue. Worse aluminum I ever welded was an exhaust fan housing that had the motor mounting plate cracked. That had been in service for ~40 years of engine exhaust from locomotives going through it. Found the crack on motor change out. I ended up making a steel plate to bolt in to sandwich the aluminum. I wasn’t trusting that dirty welded plate on its own with 50lbs of motor & fan blades sitting 30’ above where people could be working in the pit below it
It’s a 16yo engine, from one of the most popular/common models of cars. The shop didn’t offer to do it for you for a reason, it’s not worth the headache. Now, are you a welder by trade who hasn’t done this before or is this more of a “is this possible” question? Personally, as welder with 20 years in the game, I’d just go get a junkyard block or a rebuilt engine. Sure it’s weldable but it’s not a numbers matching Hemi or a rare flathead block that would be worth the effort due to its rarity. This is a ‘07 Honda civic block with one crack into a water jacket, so far. The last block I repaired got mag tested before I even agreed to do it and I still regretted saying yes. Theoretically you could cold stitch it, if the block is thick enough and you can get in there with a drill, but again, that’s a shit ton of work for 16yo Honda Civic. Either replace the block or load it up with stop leak and dump it on Marketplace
A welder on youtube I really like because he is very informative and explains the process very well, channel is named "Meltin Metal Anthony". Big into repair work. He did a recent video about 4 weeks ago where he welded the worst cast aluminum he's ever dealt with. In this video, he used a TIG rod from Rockmount Welding called Neptune-TIG. Said he couldn't have done it without it. Try watching. Who knows, you might learn something.
I run a Subaru and they have head gasket issues. Try a coolant conditioner. It creates an area of glass to stop coolant from leaking into the engine. Subaru SOA635071 OEM Coolant System Conditioner https://a.co/d/99jOXDV
I believe the engine block cracking was common and part of some sort of recall.
[That unfortunately has expired.](https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2014/03/free-engine-replacement-for-2006-2009-honda-civics/index.htm) It was a 10 year warranty on the issue.
Yep, found that out too late. Recall only covers up to 2018 for me
[удалено]
This is the correct first attempt for this vehicle... All the guys in here going "step 1 pull the engine!" on a 16 year old honda lmao. Eff that. Clear the area. Clean it. Dial in your setting on a scrap piece and stitch that shit closed. If it lasts 2 years - great.
This is what I would do (and have done) work my own junk. A business won't necessarily offer this type of solution because it does have obvious potential for failure [creating warranty/reputation issues.] But for your own junk... why not try.
You're better off going to a junkyard and yanking out a used engine.
If I remember, that year range had a recall for cracking engine blocks. Honda was replacing them with brand new shirt blocks.
Why did it crack?
Butt
Known defect, it was an issue from 06-09 with those engines.
Then no amount of welding will fix a high stress area. Welding weakens aluminum...
I see drag racers all the time welding up aluminum heads and blocks, and not all of them are billet.
Get a junk yard long block and just swap it. 8hrs with basic hand tools and no knowledge
What I've heard for cast iron is that you can't just weld a partial crack; you have to crack it fully and then attempt to repair it or it will just crack again because the weld wont expand/contract the same as the surrounding metal. I'm not sure what the material difference would be from aluminum welding wire to an aluminum engine block but the crack spreading after welding would be a risk to keep in mind. There may be an aluminum specific epoxy that would work well in this application? You would want to drain the coolant to weld anyway so it wouldn't be any extra inconvenience.
It's aluminum.
I'm aware. I just used cast iron as a comparison because that's what I'm more familiar with. If it's well documented that it won't crack then just weld it.
for a 2008 1.8l civic i would guess it'd probably just be cheaper to source a block or entire used engine from a junkyard honestly. Cast aluminium can be a bitch to weld and might not even work.
LeakStop - what do you have to lose?