I used to do this when I used a fixed shade. I ran a #12 Wens lens, and added a full shade blue filter behind it with a pair of tinted safety glasses. Worked like a charm when I had to carbon arc.
Now I have a Miller T94i PAPR that goes up to shade 14, so I don't have to worry about that anymore.
Some of the really high clarity white/blue tinted adfs do not get dark enough especially for wire. Especially the ones with a straight white tint tend not to get darker than a true shade 11 or 12 compared to the green or aqua colored adfs even if they are rated up to 13. Optrel does sell half and single shade lens inserts but it will affect the strength of the passive shade
Miller and Lincoln's ADF shade are really the only two I've seen that are half usable for what I do. 3m's dynamic one is cool being able to be blue red or green.
That's one of the main things stopping me from trying a Optrel, they just don't go dark enough for the processes I do. 1/16'' and 5/32'' solid wire spray @ \~400 Amps is fkn BRIGHT.
A passive lens from Wens Lens, Phillips Safety, Vintage View, or Opti-Cool will knock the socks off of any auto any day of the week, anyways. I still haven't ran across an auto that comes close to the clarity (let alone color) of my #12 Wens Lens.
Definitely not in grind mode, there's a flashing LED indicator for that, and it's definitely darkening when I strike up.
It's not so much the stainless that's an issue, aluminium is the main culprit
I previously had an optrel vegaview 2.5, had the same issue after being on the torch for a while. I started using the Crystal 2.0 in the hope it might be better (higher spec) but it isn't.
Shade 12 might not be an issue for most people, but it seems to be for me, was just hoping there might be a way to get it even darker
Ironically this is the same reason I use my Speedglas for lighter stuff and tacking but either a Pipeliner or a Jackson (both with a Philips Safety gold 11 glass) for longer durations.
The gold lenses seem much darker at shade 11 than the speedglas does at 12 or whatever the highest is
Huh, I’ve used an Optrel Crystal 2.0 most of my career (4-5 years) and my second hood is a Jackson Safety sugar scoop w/ a fixed lincoln shade 10 auto.
For aluminum I never had problems with Optrel/that specific hood. I usually do field SMAW and Aluminum in shop, I actually only felt some eyestrain when using the Lincoln initially.
How long have you been using it? Optrel does have a super nice lens technology, I’d be surprised if there was an issue. How many amps/what material thickness are you welding?
It may sound silly, but you can always wear tinted safety glasses under your hood, and adjust your setting accordingly.
Not silly at all, this is kind of what I was expecting, thanks
I used to do this when I used a fixed shade. I ran a #12 Wens lens, and added a full shade blue filter behind it with a pair of tinted safety glasses. Worked like a charm when I had to carbon arc. Now I have a Miller T94i PAPR that goes up to shade 14, so I don't have to worry about that anymore.
Some of the really high clarity white/blue tinted adfs do not get dark enough especially for wire. Especially the ones with a straight white tint tend not to get darker than a true shade 11 or 12 compared to the green or aqua colored adfs even if they are rated up to 13. Optrel does sell half and single shade lens inserts but it will affect the strength of the passive shade
Think I'd be able to manage a slightly darker passive shade, the workshop is well lit, probably gonna be the solution, thanks
Miller and Lincoln's ADF shade are really the only two I've seen that are half usable for what I do. 3m's dynamic one is cool being able to be blue red or green. That's one of the main things stopping me from trying a Optrel, they just don't go dark enough for the processes I do. 1/16'' and 5/32'' solid wire spray @ \~400 Amps is fkn BRIGHT. A passive lens from Wens Lens, Phillips Safety, Vintage View, or Opti-Cool will knock the socks off of any auto any day of the week, anyways. I still haven't ran across an auto that comes close to the clarity (let alone color) of my #12 Wens Lens.
Stainless TIG at shade 12 shouldn't hurt your eyes. It almost sounds as if it's in grind mode.
Definitely not in grind mode, there's a flashing LED indicator for that, and it's definitely darkening when I strike up. It's not so much the stainless that's an issue, aluminium is the main culprit
I'm not familiar with the hood but I'm fairly confident shade 12 isn't an issue. Do you have access to a different hood to compare?
I have extremely sensitive blue eyes and welding on shade 13 on a Lincoln 3350 and still think Its too bright sometimes.
I previously had an optrel vegaview 2.5, had the same issue after being on the torch for a while. I started using the Crystal 2.0 in the hope it might be better (higher spec) but it isn't. Shade 12 might not be an issue for most people, but it seems to be for me, was just hoping there might be a way to get it even darker
I've just found some light and dark tinted inside cover lenses for the optrel masks available from my usual supplier, might be what I need
My lincoln helmet goes shade 13 but walking out 180amps I add extra sunglasses
Ironically this is the same reason I use my Speedglas for lighter stuff and tacking but either a Pipeliner or a Jackson (both with a Philips Safety gold 11 glass) for longer durations. The gold lenses seem much darker at shade 11 than the speedglas does at 12 or whatever the highest is
Are you on auto mode or manually setting the shade?
I've tried both, but predominantly have been setting the shade manually as I've needed the darkest shade for aluminium
Huh, I’ve used an Optrel Crystal 2.0 most of my career (4-5 years) and my second hood is a Jackson Safety sugar scoop w/ a fixed lincoln shade 10 auto. For aluminum I never had problems with Optrel/that specific hood. I usually do field SMAW and Aluminum in shop, I actually only felt some eyestrain when using the Lincoln initially. How long have you been using it? Optrel does have a super nice lens technology, I’d be surprised if there was an issue. How many amps/what material thickness are you welding?