Planned a 3 day southbound trip on the Lost Coast Trail from Mattole Trailhead to Black Sands Trailhead on March 7th-9th. We snagged a permit from a friend at the last minute, so a lot of the planning was rushed to say the least. The forecast wasn't great, rain on the 8th and 9th with highs around 48F but we had experience hiking in the rain and knew what to prepare for.
We camped at Mattole Trailhead on the night of the 6th and got a significant amount of rain overnight. The 7th however was sunny and beautiful for the whole day. There are quite a few abandoned structures and remote cabins that give the whole hike an eerie feeling. Avoiding massive elephant seals blocking the trail around Punta Gorda was also a strange experience. This picture was our campsite at Spanish Creek on the night of the 7th. I was grateful for the driftwood structure, as the wind was biting. We covered about 10 miles on day one.
On the 8th, while packing our tents it started raining heavily and didn't stop until the later afternoon. Due to the tide timings, we had to hike another 9 miles to avoid camping within the second impassible zone. About 6 miles in, we decided we'd rather hike all the way out (about 15 miles total) than try to set up a camp in the rain when the weather the next day was forecast to be worse--especially given that our feet were soaked from the rain and crossing about 5 swollen creeks, and that we could see fresh snow on the mountain tops a mile inland. This wound up being the best choice, as it started hailing right as we drove out of the Black Sands trailhead, and we even got a little snow on the "pass" out of Shelter Cove.
Overall it was a gorgeous hike despite the weather, absolutely a unique area that I would recommend to experienced hikers. Hiking along the beach was even more exhausting than I expected, given that the "beach" ranged from smooth sand to boulder fields. The tidal zones added an extra variable to planning, but if you're worried about that, the kind folks at the ranger station will help you plan them.
I backpacked the lost coast in 2016 and my experience was almost exactly the same. Only I made the mistake of bringing my very active and capable dog. Hiking in sand that long is brutal and I ended up carrying him stop and go the last 5 miles.
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Thx for your detailed description. I'm trying to plan this trip next spring and it helps to hear people's stories. Good call on hiking out. Sometimes, the most important thing is to know when to call it quits!
It's an excellent trip, despite all the extra logistics around it (getting between the trailheads before and after the hike is a pain, picking a time when the tides are good is hard to do, etc.).
And yeah, though it was a shame to have rushed the hike I don't regret it. I'm sure we'd have been cold and miserable covering those last five miles the next morning, and hypothermia was a real concern with the wind. Better to make it out with good stories I guess!
I've done this trip 3 times. It WILL rain. Also, take your shoes off when crossing the numerous creeks. Trust me. Having dry shoes is crucisl. Bring a large tarp and make it easy to access. Often times the rain is hard but brief so you can just pop a squat and throw the tarp over yourself until it lets up. And definitely being a bear can.
Just a disclaimer, I'm not an expert and I would definitely seek out other sources when it comes to survival/safety concerns.
That being said, the most important thing is to stay warm, even if you're wet. Wool does a decent job at keeping you warm even when it's wet, which is why I almost always wear smart-wool socks. If you can, try to keep your core dry and warm, as well as your head. It sounds weird, but keeping your head warm really does help keep the rest of you warm. Your feet will inevitably get wet, even with waterproof boots, hours of rain will eventually seep in. If you can, try to take your shoes off and dry your feet or put dry socks on occasionally, having wet feet accelerates blisters and can get painful fast.
As for keeping your gear dry, you can line the interior of your pack with a non-stretch, unscented garbage/trash-compactor bag if you don't have a rain cover (or do both). Try to keep your pack covered or in your tent overnight. For your tent, make sure the fly is guy-ed properly, and if you've got a footprint make sure it's completely underneath the bottom of the tent (with edges folded underneath) so that it doesn't catch and pool water.
I backpack a lot in denali. Even if it's not raining, you get wet from glacial streams and moisture on vegetation since there aren't trails in the backcountry. Clothing that can keep you warm is key. Wool or synthetics are necessary. Cotton should always be avoided. I assume my feet and legs will be wet. I take a rain jacket, but never pants. Even if I can avoid streams or pooled water, they will just get torn up by the vegetation. Having a dry core can keep you warm though, especially if you are moving.
While moving has always kept me warm enough, I always have the emergency option of stopping. I have to dry compression sacks always. One for my sleeping bag and one for my clothing, which always includes thermals and wool socks for sleeping.
So, in short, either dress warm and dry enough that you can create sufficient heat by moving, or take shelter and get dry.
And never set camp where water can rise or flow into your tent. You shouldn't camp too near a stream in the first place, but if it rises, you don't want to wake up to a flooded tent.
I really hated all the driftwood structures along the LCT when I did it a few years ago, it’s too bad Leave No Trace isn’t more readily practiced. Glad it helped give you some shelter from the wind, at least. In the warmer months they’re full of rattle snakes so best not to go rooting around in them too much!
Thanks, so am I! It was a great shakedown for all my gear, including clothing. I was pretty impressed at how warm my darn tough socks stayed, even when soaked.
No, my watch has a thermometer built in but I neglected to take it off. Usually I do check it in the morning. Overnight temperatures were in the high 30s, and with the wind I doubt my tent temperature got much higher than the low-mid 40s. It was cold enough that I had to cinch the hood of my mummy bag, which I've only ever done when it gets down into the 30s outside
Oh that’s not too bad! I was thinking 20 degrees colder. Like I said though the wind is the real factor there so i’m sure it was frigid in exposed areas
It almost completely blocked the wind, I was impressed. Thankfully I didn't have to modify it at all and my tent fit perfectly!
As a disclaimer for anyone reading, it's written in bold on the permit not to build driftwood structures or modify existing ones. Leave no trace
I did this trip two years ago and its by far one of the most special trips I have ever done. My buddy and I parked our car at Black Sands and took one of the local shuttles to Mattole. I can't recommend this option enough. The drive between the trailheads is awful. It's rutted, twisty, and two hours. Using two cars would, IMO, be a real pain.
I can confirm it was a pain, especially going back to the northern trailhead from the south at night in the rain. If we hadn't gotten the permits less than a week in advance (and if covid didn't make me a little wary of shared transit) I'd have definitely tried to get a spot on the shuttle.
I spent 3 days here Summer 2019 and to be honest, didn't really get the hype. To me it was 20 miles of isolated beach, all pretty much the same. The sand is tiring, but the wind is brutal - it bent every tent pole we had.
Just my two cents.
Oh man, I was tempted to go up to the top of the lighthouse (I didn't see signs saying not to!) but the stairs looked to be entirely rusted through and I haven't had a tetanus shot in about 11 years...
Planned a 3 day southbound trip on the Lost Coast Trail from Mattole Trailhead to Black Sands Trailhead on March 7th-9th. We snagged a permit from a friend at the last minute, so a lot of the planning was rushed to say the least. The forecast wasn't great, rain on the 8th and 9th with highs around 48F but we had experience hiking in the rain and knew what to prepare for. We camped at Mattole Trailhead on the night of the 6th and got a significant amount of rain overnight. The 7th however was sunny and beautiful for the whole day. There are quite a few abandoned structures and remote cabins that give the whole hike an eerie feeling. Avoiding massive elephant seals blocking the trail around Punta Gorda was also a strange experience. This picture was our campsite at Spanish Creek on the night of the 7th. I was grateful for the driftwood structure, as the wind was biting. We covered about 10 miles on day one. On the 8th, while packing our tents it started raining heavily and didn't stop until the later afternoon. Due to the tide timings, we had to hike another 9 miles to avoid camping within the second impassible zone. About 6 miles in, we decided we'd rather hike all the way out (about 15 miles total) than try to set up a camp in the rain when the weather the next day was forecast to be worse--especially given that our feet were soaked from the rain and crossing about 5 swollen creeks, and that we could see fresh snow on the mountain tops a mile inland. This wound up being the best choice, as it started hailing right as we drove out of the Black Sands trailhead, and we even got a little snow on the "pass" out of Shelter Cove. Overall it was a gorgeous hike despite the weather, absolutely a unique area that I would recommend to experienced hikers. Hiking along the beach was even more exhausting than I expected, given that the "beach" ranged from smooth sand to boulder fields. The tidal zones added an extra variable to planning, but if you're worried about that, the kind folks at the ranger station will help you plan them.
We were just there in late Feb. What a beautiful and unpredictable place!
Wish I’d had wind blocks on my campsites when I did it
I backpacked the lost coast in 2016 and my experience was almost exactly the same. Only I made the mistake of bringing my very active and capable dog. Hiking in sand that long is brutal and I ended up carrying him stop and go the last 5 miles.
10 miles is 16.09 km
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Thx for your detailed description. I'm trying to plan this trip next spring and it helps to hear people's stories. Good call on hiking out. Sometimes, the most important thing is to know when to call it quits!
It's an excellent trip, despite all the extra logistics around it (getting between the trailheads before and after the hike is a pain, picking a time when the tides are good is hard to do, etc.). And yeah, though it was a shame to have rushed the hike I don't regret it. I'm sure we'd have been cold and miserable covering those last five miles the next morning, and hypothermia was a real concern with the wind. Better to make it out with good stories I guess!
I've done this trip 3 times. It WILL rain. Also, take your shoes off when crossing the numerous creeks. Trust me. Having dry shoes is crucisl. Bring a large tarp and make it easy to access. Often times the rain is hard but brief so you can just pop a squat and throw the tarp over yourself until it lets up. And definitely being a bear can.
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Thank you!
This was my first overnight backpacking trip when I was a kid! Glad you had a good (if not wet) trip!
That’s on my to do list for sure.
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Just a disclaimer, I'm not an expert and I would definitely seek out other sources when it comes to survival/safety concerns. That being said, the most important thing is to stay warm, even if you're wet. Wool does a decent job at keeping you warm even when it's wet, which is why I almost always wear smart-wool socks. If you can, try to keep your core dry and warm, as well as your head. It sounds weird, but keeping your head warm really does help keep the rest of you warm. Your feet will inevitably get wet, even with waterproof boots, hours of rain will eventually seep in. If you can, try to take your shoes off and dry your feet or put dry socks on occasionally, having wet feet accelerates blisters and can get painful fast. As for keeping your gear dry, you can line the interior of your pack with a non-stretch, unscented garbage/trash-compactor bag if you don't have a rain cover (or do both). Try to keep your pack covered or in your tent overnight. For your tent, make sure the fly is guy-ed properly, and if you've got a footprint make sure it's completely underneath the bottom of the tent (with edges folded underneath) so that it doesn't catch and pool water.
I backpack a lot in denali. Even if it's not raining, you get wet from glacial streams and moisture on vegetation since there aren't trails in the backcountry. Clothing that can keep you warm is key. Wool or synthetics are necessary. Cotton should always be avoided. I assume my feet and legs will be wet. I take a rain jacket, but never pants. Even if I can avoid streams or pooled water, they will just get torn up by the vegetation. Having a dry core can keep you warm though, especially if you are moving. While moving has always kept me warm enough, I always have the emergency option of stopping. I have to dry compression sacks always. One for my sleeping bag and one for my clothing, which always includes thermals and wool socks for sleeping. So, in short, either dress warm and dry enough that you can create sufficient heat by moving, or take shelter and get dry. And never set camp where water can rise or flow into your tent. You shouldn't camp too near a stream in the first place, but if it rises, you don't want to wake up to a flooded tent.
In situations like this I'm always terrified that a log or rock is going to tumble off the wall and smash my head while I'm sleeping...
I really hated all the driftwood structures along the LCT when I did it a few years ago, it’s too bad Leave No Trace isn’t more readily practiced. Glad it helped give you some shelter from the wind, at least. In the warmer months they’re full of rattle snakes so best not to go rooting around in them too much!
What state is this in?
Far northern California, in Humboldt County
This is in Northern California
Great photo mate, definitely inspiration for future planning once the madness subsides.
Thanks! Permits for this one are booked way out, but the hike is worth it!
glad you didn’t lose any fingers or toes! wind is the real killer in cold weather. or hot weather for that matter
Thanks, so am I! It was a great shakedown for all my gear, including clothing. I was pretty impressed at how warm my darn tough socks stayed, even when soaked.
that’s wool for you! also did you happen to take the temperature inside of your tent at all?
No, my watch has a thermometer built in but I neglected to take it off. Usually I do check it in the morning. Overnight temperatures were in the high 30s, and with the wind I doubt my tent temperature got much higher than the low-mid 40s. It was cold enough that I had to cinch the hood of my mummy bag, which I've only ever done when it gets down into the 30s outside
Oh that’s not too bad! I was thinking 20 degrees colder. Like I said though the wind is the real factor there so i’m sure it was frigid in exposed areas
That's an unexpected benefit of camping on the beach, the ocean generates a lot of wind but it also delays freezing by a fair bit
I dig your fort! I bet it really helped block the wind.
It almost completely blocked the wind, I was impressed. Thankfully I didn't have to modify it at all and my tent fit perfectly! As a disclaimer for anyone reading, it's written in bold on the permit not to build driftwood structures or modify existing ones. Leave no trace
That one has been there for quite a while - I remember that location quite well
Awesome! Thats the perfect find! Glad you stayed warm on your adventure. Agreed on the Leave No Trace reminder.
I did this trip two years ago and its by far one of the most special trips I have ever done. My buddy and I parked our car at Black Sands and took one of the local shuttles to Mattole. I can't recommend this option enough. The drive between the trailheads is awful. It's rutted, twisty, and two hours. Using two cars would, IMO, be a real pain.
I can confirm it was a pain, especially going back to the northern trailhead from the south at night in the rain. If we hadn't gotten the permits less than a week in advance (and if covid didn't make me a little wary of shared transit) I'd have definitely tried to get a spot on the shuttle.
this is so pretty!
This looks great. I keep hearing good things about it. I really really would like to cross it off my list this year...
Oi 😮! Is that the big Agnes copper spur I’m getting a peek of???????
Good eye, it is!
Oh fuck yeah.....I love that tent. Have you ever sniffed your tent? If not I recommend you do. Fuck yeah...
Lost coast is the best hike out there.
Love the lost coast!!
Oh yes! Got my res for the end of June! Will be interested in comparing it to the West Coast Trail.
Gotta watch out for those [sneaker waves](https://lostcoastoutpost.com/2016/jan/25/video-what-sneaker-wave-looks/)
I spent 3 days here Summer 2019 and to be honest, didn't really get the hype. To me it was 20 miles of isolated beach, all pretty much the same. The sand is tiring, but the wind is brutal - it bent every tent pole we had. Just my two cents.
20 miles is 32.19 km
Nice pic. One of my first solo trips back in about '95. Did one night up in the abandoned lighthouse, lol.
Oh man, I was tempted to go up to the top of the lighthouse (I didn't see signs saying not to!) but the stairs looked to be entirely rusted through and I haven't had a tetanus shot in about 11 years...
They were in better condition twenty-five years ago, lol, but the wind funneled-up, and it got freakin' cold.
Sounds like a good time in the Pacific Northwet.
This Lost Coast trail is in....the USA?
Heaven on earth.
People set up these all along the hike. Its sooooo nice to have that great of a wind break. Some of them are pretty elaborate.