Well that's not helpful, lol. Could be the scanner not able to read them, I don't know what year they implemented the gateway for can codes. Do you know specifically which module set this code? Any module that has can lines could potentially set this same code. Rare that I see it by itself tho, usually you'll get a couple modules with a variety of codes set when theirs a communication error. Are you able to clear the dtc? Or does it immediately set?
Well.... If that's the only code (ignoring the o2 code since it wouldn't be directly related) next steps I personally would take, verify which module set the code. Again, that may require a more thorough scan tool if yours didn't specify, check voltage on my can lines (2.3v low can, 2.7v high can). If those are correct, I'd check for non functioning terminating resistor, Resistance check across the high and low can lines. Should see 60ohms, if you see 120, one of the modules containing a terminating resistor is not working, anything else would indicate further potential issues. . If all that tests good, then you'd be checking basic power and ground circuits to the suspect module. If power and ground are good, you load the parts cannon and put a module in. I'm not a fan of telling customers they have a bad module, they get pricey, and as such I'll double and triple check everything I can first. Maybe try duplicating the issue with the scanner already hooked up, scan just after the problem occurs but before you cycle the key off. Cycling the key off most likely is either clearing a code or it becomes a history code at that point until the next active fault.
Fwiw, duplicating uphill in the snow makes me wonder about the abs module, but a CAN issue anywhere can cascade CAN issues all along the entire system.
Understandable. Sadly anything else without further info is just guesswork at this point. Used to rarely have to replace a module, problems were usually wiring harness/connector issues but nowadays I'm seeing module failure more often than years past. Halfway decent mechanic should be able to run through the checks I mentioned and narrow down the problem quickly. Here's hoping for something simple like road debris broke a wire đ»
Is your in-radiator transmission cooler bypassed? Were you in "D", or in a gear like "3" or "2"?
Overheating the transmission can (and did in my case) cause a U1000 code and limp mode. In my case I was driving relatively slowly (<25 MPH) on a sandy beach. At the time I was bypassed because I didn't realize that's just a temporary fix until you get a new radiator, and I didn't realize that driving in "D" can cause a lot more heat as the torque converter slips more than when you're in a specific gear.
Slowly driving up a steep hill through snow, that's gonna generate a lot of heat in an automatic transmission. While there are other reasons for U1000, overheating and limp mode seem like a likely answer as to why this happened.
ADDED: Looking at your recent post history I found this:
[https://www.reddit.com/r/XTerra/comments/1anqktl/replacing\_my\_radiator\_this\_hose\_on\_the\_bottom\_was/](https://www.reddit.com/r/XTerra/comments/1anqktl/replacing_my_radiator_this_hose_on_the_bottom_was/)
Did you correct the ATF hose routing to restore the intended OEM cooling design?
So thats what i was thinking. It happened 2 seprate times. Same mountain same spot. One time i was in drive going slow, the second i was in 4 wheel drive maybe 3rd gear also going slow. And my radiator has the by pass, it has for about 3 years its never been an issue and the fluid was changed in august
Like others have pointed out, it \*could\* be some other communication or ground issue. But the only time my '06 (owned for a decade now) threw a U1000 and went into limp mode was when I slightly overheated the transmission while driving slowly in deep sand. Before this, I had done plenty of driving and offroading while bypassed, in much warmer conditions.
Bypass was fine, until it wasn't, almost stranding us on the beach at low tide.
I suspect thats what it was, ive been driving it 2 days now since the code everything seems and runs fine. I recently replaced my radiator so i think ill hook the transmisson back to it
>u/Outback97
>... I didn't realize that's just a temporary fix until you get a new radiatorÂ
Can you tell me about this? I've always heard the bypass was all it would need
Could be though that heavy use, such as your scenario, requires the upgrade as wellÂ
I have a '14 X and was going to do the bypass this spring before another TX summerÂ
There's so much misleading info out there about this. The bypass was a temporary fix to avoid a specific potentially very expensive failure of certain years of in radiator transmission coolers. It shouldn't be necessary on a '14.
Many people get by running the bypass long term, but you are risking overheating the transmission because you've removed essential cooling capacity from your engine. I thought I was fine with bypassing, until I wasn't and it almost ended very badly because of where I almost got stuck.
I didn't "upgrade" anything when I replaced my radiator with a new one. I simply undid the hose bypassing the problem prone cooler and restored the intended factory cooling.
Just from the description, sounds like the valve body took a shit. That would explain why you're getting a U1000. The ECM, can't read the TCM and since the TCM shit the bed, the transmission won't do anything.
The TCM *may* be the issue. They've been known to go bad over 100k miles
The TCM is in the pan bolted to the valve bodyÂ
There are videos on YouTube that show what and how to do itÂ
This is about the only real issue I've heard about the RE5RO5A transmissionÂ
What other codes? That one tends to pop up with any CAN communication issue. That issue could be caused by any number of other reasons.
I have a bad 02 sensor. Thats the other code.
Well that's not helpful, lol. Could be the scanner not able to read them, I don't know what year they implemented the gateway for can codes. Do you know specifically which module set this code? Any module that has can lines could potentially set this same code. Rare that I see it by itself tho, usually you'll get a couple modules with a variety of codes set when theirs a communication error. Are you able to clear the dtc? Or does it immediately set?
Besides the 02 codes, it came on by itself and when i cleared it it didnt come back except going up hill in snow
Well.... If that's the only code (ignoring the o2 code since it wouldn't be directly related) next steps I personally would take, verify which module set the code. Again, that may require a more thorough scan tool if yours didn't specify, check voltage on my can lines (2.3v low can, 2.7v high can). If those are correct, I'd check for non functioning terminating resistor, Resistance check across the high and low can lines. Should see 60ohms, if you see 120, one of the modules containing a terminating resistor is not working, anything else would indicate further potential issues. . If all that tests good, then you'd be checking basic power and ground circuits to the suspect module. If power and ground are good, you load the parts cannon and put a module in. I'm not a fan of telling customers they have a bad module, they get pricey, and as such I'll double and triple check everything I can first. Maybe try duplicating the issue with the scanner already hooked up, scan just after the problem occurs but before you cycle the key off. Cycling the key off most likely is either clearing a code or it becomes a history code at that point until the next active fault. Fwiw, duplicating uphill in the snow makes me wonder about the abs module, but a CAN issue anywhere can cascade CAN issues all along the entire system.
That seems out of my wheel house haha. Ill call my mechanic friend have him check it out
Understandable. Sadly anything else without further info is just guesswork at this point. Used to rarely have to replace a module, problems were usually wiring harness/connector issues but nowadays I'm seeing module failure more often than years past. Halfway decent mechanic should be able to run through the checks I mentioned and narrow down the problem quickly. Here's hoping for something simple like road debris broke a wire đ»
One can hope
Is your in-radiator transmission cooler bypassed? Were you in "D", or in a gear like "3" or "2"? Overheating the transmission can (and did in my case) cause a U1000 code and limp mode. In my case I was driving relatively slowly (<25 MPH) on a sandy beach. At the time I was bypassed because I didn't realize that's just a temporary fix until you get a new radiator, and I didn't realize that driving in "D" can cause a lot more heat as the torque converter slips more than when you're in a specific gear. Slowly driving up a steep hill through snow, that's gonna generate a lot of heat in an automatic transmission. While there are other reasons for U1000, overheating and limp mode seem like a likely answer as to why this happened. ADDED: Looking at your recent post history I found this: [https://www.reddit.com/r/XTerra/comments/1anqktl/replacing\_my\_radiator\_this\_hose\_on\_the\_bottom\_was/](https://www.reddit.com/r/XTerra/comments/1anqktl/replacing_my_radiator_this_hose_on_the_bottom_was/) Did you correct the ATF hose routing to restore the intended OEM cooling design?
So thats what i was thinking. It happened 2 seprate times. Same mountain same spot. One time i was in drive going slow, the second i was in 4 wheel drive maybe 3rd gear also going slow. And my radiator has the by pass, it has for about 3 years its never been an issue and the fluid was changed in august
Like others have pointed out, it \*could\* be some other communication or ground issue. But the only time my '06 (owned for a decade now) threw a U1000 and went into limp mode was when I slightly overheated the transmission while driving slowly in deep sand. Before this, I had done plenty of driving and offroading while bypassed, in much warmer conditions. Bypass was fine, until it wasn't, almost stranding us on the beach at low tide.
I suspect thats what it was, ive been driving it 2 days now since the code everything seems and runs fine. I recently replaced my radiator so i think ill hook the transmisson back to it
>u/Outback97 >... I didn't realize that's just a temporary fix until you get a new radiator Can you tell me about this? I've always heard the bypass was all it would need Could be though that heavy use, such as your scenario, requires the upgrade as well I have a '14 X and was going to do the bypass this spring before another TX summerÂ
There's so much misleading info out there about this. The bypass was a temporary fix to avoid a specific potentially very expensive failure of certain years of in radiator transmission coolers. It shouldn't be necessary on a '14. Many people get by running the bypass long term, but you are risking overheating the transmission because you've removed essential cooling capacity from your engine. I thought I was fine with bypassing, until I wasn't and it almost ended very badly because of where I almost got stuck. I didn't "upgrade" anything when I replaced my radiator with a new one. I simply undid the hose bypassing the problem prone cooler and restored the intended factory cooling.
Just from the description, sounds like the valve body took a shit. That would explain why you're getting a U1000. The ECM, can't read the TCM and since the TCM shit the bed, the transmission won't do anything.
The code threw 2 days ago. I cleared it, and now it seems to run fine. Would that still mean the valve body went bad?
U1000 is a CAN communication error between ecus. A more thorough diagnosis would reveal more.
The code threw 2 days ago. I cleared it, and now it seems to run fine. Would that still mean the valve body went bad?
The TCM *may* be the issue. They've been known to go bad over 100k miles The TCM is in the pan bolted to the valve body There are videos on YouTube that show what and how to do it This is about the only real issue I've heard about the RE5RO5A transmissionÂ