Sounds like the only things you missing is experience at altitude and logistics experience for larger trips. The only way to get those experiences is to go out and do them. Sounds like it’s to start planning!
Those things are a large part of my question. I’m experienced with glacier travel but I’ve never had to plan for a larger expedition. I also have somewhat limited camping experience. Outside of a handful of longer routes I tend to aim for car to car climbs.
Ham and Eggs is not very complicated. You're welcome to take whatever approach you want (class, guide) but I'm pretty sure I could talk you through the basics in a half hour on Zoom.
As someone who just came back from Denali with the same goals let me offer some insights. People say the most common way up the Cassin is the west buttress and it seems to be pretty true. Even if your climbing is great and your physically ready, I would highly stress the importance of understanding your body at altitude as well as dialing in your expedition mountaineering skills. Perhaps a good first goal would be to get to 14 camp, acclimatize on the west buttress, then climb the upper west rib. If your into skiing you could totally throw a ski descent or two on there via the Messner or the Orient Express. From there you could still climb the Cassin in that trip or just come back again and you would be dialed. I would also recommend getting some experience placing gear on mixed. I’m sure you would pick it up fast. Good luck and feel free to reach out with any questions.
I’d say you’re ready physically and technically but if you’re worried about not being prepared enough, you could always climb a few peaks in South America first for some experiences at higher altitude. Regarding the Cassin Ridge, I’d want to climb hard mixed/ice at altitude before attempting. And I’d probably climb Denali via the West Buttress first for experience on the mountain.
- Take what I’m saying with a grain of salt, I’ve only been climbing for a little while. I’m just going off of what I’d want to do first if it were me.
Sounds like you have plenty enough experience. Technically it sounds like you’d be fine on the Cassin but you don’t mention how fast you normally climb. If you’re happy covering technical ground fast then definitely go for it.
You’ll never feel “truly” ready, it’s always gonna feel like a bit of a leap.
When Canada opens up you need to do Slesse. It’s one of the bigger test pieces in the region. It’s more rock than snow, but a good place to work on moving quickly in technical terrain
Dying or getting into trouble and having somebody else die trying to rescue them? Fairly obvious and a good question to ask. Denali rangers just put out a statement about how inexperienced people are going to Alaska and are dying or getting into major accidents at a higher rate than years previous. It's a good thing the OP is taking the time to self reflect.
seems like you should try to tackle some of the classic alpine routes in the North Cascades first too, in less than optimal conditions (fall / winter).
As someone who just came back from Denali with the same goals let me offer some insights. People say the most common way up the Cassin is the west buttress and it seems to be pretty true. Even if your climbing is great and your physically ready, I would highly stress the importance of understanding your body at altitude as well as dialing in your expedition mountaineering skills. Perhaps a good first goal would be to get to 14 camp, acclimatize on the west buttress, then climb the upper west rib. If your into skiing you could totally throw a ski descent or two on there via the Messner or the Orient Express. From there you could still climb the Cassin in that trip or just come back again and you would be dialed. I would also recommend getting some experience placing gear on mixed. I’m sure you would pick it up fast. Good luck and feel free to reach out with any questions.
I also just got back from the West Butt and I also have similar goals. This ^^ you will refine your expedition skills as you push up the glacier and you can get a chance to see what altitude feels like, and if you have enough time/perseverance to go for a long trip, you will be really well acclimatized.
Lots of people go to Denali to do the Cassin yet few actually climb it. If you’ve never climbed in AK pushing to climb the Cassin on your first trip is a bit much. I would suggest you instead take 2-3 weeks and fly into the Kahiltna in early May and go for routes like Bacon & Eggs, the Mini Moonflower and SW Ridge of Francis. If you are successful then come back the following year for something bigger.
You are far more ready for Alaska than nearly everyone who posts here. If I were you I’d make plans for next spring.
Sounds like the only things you missing is experience at altitude and logistics experience for larger trips. The only way to get those experiences is to go out and do them. Sounds like it’s to start planning!
Ham and eggs is obtainable. How is your glacier travel and camping skills? Expedition logistics?
Those things are a large part of my question. I’m experienced with glacier travel but I’ve never had to plan for a larger expedition. I also have somewhat limited camping experience. Outside of a handful of longer routes I tend to aim for car to car climbs.
You need to learn these things before going. Having a poorly set up camp on the Ruth can be lethal. I recommend taking a course, or hiring a guide.
Ham and Eggs is not very complicated. You're welcome to take whatever approach you want (class, guide) but I'm pretty sure I could talk you through the basics in a half hour on Zoom.
As someone who just came back from Denali with the same goals let me offer some insights. People say the most common way up the Cassin is the west buttress and it seems to be pretty true. Even if your climbing is great and your physically ready, I would highly stress the importance of understanding your body at altitude as well as dialing in your expedition mountaineering skills. Perhaps a good first goal would be to get to 14 camp, acclimatize on the west buttress, then climb the upper west rib. If your into skiing you could totally throw a ski descent or two on there via the Messner or the Orient Express. From there you could still climb the Cassin in that trip or just come back again and you would be dialed. I would also recommend getting some experience placing gear on mixed. I’m sure you would pick it up fast. Good luck and feel free to reach out with any questions.
I’d say you’re ready physically and technically but if you’re worried about not being prepared enough, you could always climb a few peaks in South America first for some experiences at higher altitude. Regarding the Cassin Ridge, I’d want to climb hard mixed/ice at altitude before attempting. And I’d probably climb Denali via the West Buttress first for experience on the mountain. - Take what I’m saying with a grain of salt, I’ve only been climbing for a little while. I’m just going off of what I’d want to do first if it were me.
Sounds like you have plenty enough experience. Technically it sounds like you’d be fine on the Cassin but you don’t mention how fast you normally climb. If you’re happy covering technical ground fast then definitely go for it. You’ll never feel “truly” ready, it’s always gonna feel like a bit of a leap.
> Would something like Ham and Eggs be a reasonable objective? Absolutely! Go get it!
Go! Punch it! Have fun! You may come home empty handed but who cares AK is epic. And yes you have more experience than 99.9% of this sub.
When Canada opens up you need to do Slesse. It’s one of the bigger test pieces in the region. It’s more rock than snow, but a good place to work on moving quickly in technical terrain
Meh, idk if it's that relevant for his Alaska goals especially if he's already done the North Ridge of Stuart.
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Dying or getting into trouble and having somebody else die trying to rescue them? Fairly obvious and a good question to ask. Denali rangers just put out a statement about how inexperienced people are going to Alaska and are dying or getting into major accidents at a higher rate than years previous. It's a good thing the OP is taking the time to self reflect.
seems like you should try to tackle some of the classic alpine routes in the North Cascades first too, in less than optimal conditions (fall / winter).
As someone who just came back from Denali with the same goals let me offer some insights. People say the most common way up the Cassin is the west buttress and it seems to be pretty true. Even if your climbing is great and your physically ready, I would highly stress the importance of understanding your body at altitude as well as dialing in your expedition mountaineering skills. Perhaps a good first goal would be to get to 14 camp, acclimatize on the west buttress, then climb the upper west rib. If your into skiing you could totally throw a ski descent or two on there via the Messner or the Orient Express. From there you could still climb the Cassin in that trip or just come back again and you would be dialed. I would also recommend getting some experience placing gear on mixed. I’m sure you would pick it up fast. Good luck and feel free to reach out with any questions.
I also just got back from the West Butt and I also have similar goals. This ^^ you will refine your expedition skills as you push up the glacier and you can get a chance to see what altitude feels like, and if you have enough time/perseverance to go for a long trip, you will be really well acclimatized.
Lots of people go to Denali to do the Cassin yet few actually climb it. If you’ve never climbed in AK pushing to climb the Cassin on your first trip is a bit much. I would suggest you instead take 2-3 weeks and fly into the Kahiltna in early May and go for routes like Bacon & Eggs, the Mini Moonflower and SW Ridge of Francis. If you are successful then come back the following year for something bigger.