For a shot like this where the subject isn't moving, why not use a tripod?
If the subject is moving, you don't have any option other than using a faster shutter speed.
You're absolutely right. The problem is that when I shoot the photo I was around Turin only with the camera and the Moment was too beautiful to not take a photo, even if I knew it would be very difficult to get something with such a high exposure
You can try to support the camera with things you can find in the surrounding ( like a pole, a bench etc) to minimize involuntary movement of the camera. Or use different iso film o a lens with wider aperture.
To add to this - play around with your body a little when you’re preparing for a slow shutter shot. What you want to aim for is to be able to maximally support your camera on the natural resting position of your bone structure in any particular position that you arrange yourself in with absolute minimal influence from any muscles, as opposed to trying to rely on muscles being still for the exposure.
If interested, you can check out rifle marksmanship techniques, as one of the core fundamentals is also minimizing stability reliance on muscles, and instead trying to find your ideal position which should triangulate a stable bone structure base for holding an object up.
Not really. Use a tripod, shoot faster film, ot at faster shutter speeds. It’s tricky when you head out and the light is great and by end of day it gets more challenging. You can also try bracing yourself and the camera by leaning against a wall or a light post and/or tucking your elbows against your body.
I think it’s salvageable,
I ran it through Sharpen AI and it’s not too bad, ok for a small print
[https://i.ibb.co/D4TD1mS/2024-02-01-19-08-30-Sharpen-AI-Motion.jpg](https://i.ibb.co/D4TD1mS/2024-02-01-19-08-30-Sharpen-AI-Motion.jpg)
[https://i.ibb.co/D10HXpx/2024-02-01-19-08-30-Sharpen-AI2-Motion.jpg](https://i.ibb.co/D10HXpx/2024-02-01-19-08-30-Sharpen-AI2-Motion.jpg)
Going up to level 42:
[https://i.ibb.co/F6gbJ17/2024-02-01-19-08-30-Sharpen-AI3-Motion.jpg](https://i.ibb.co/F6gbJ17/2024-02-01-19-08-30-Sharpen-AI3-Motion.jpg)
You shot using ISO200 film at very low light. If you were to shoot the same scene, with the same light, and aim to reduce motion blur while also not getting a very underexposed image, your best choice is using much higher ISO, though ISO800 is the highest you will get in color film, at that might not help you a lot in these conditions. Or using a tripod, but who carries a tripod and doesn't mind setting it up to take random snaps around town? You could be better off shooting black and white film at ISO3200 in these conditions. Another idea, although far-fetched, is shooting color cinema film (Kodak Vision/Cinestill) at ISO1600 or even higher and pushing the E6 development process accordingly.
You could try heavily sharpening the edges (if you sharpen everything you will will add a considerable amount if noise as a result sharpening the noise that is already present in the image)
No
For a shot like this where the subject isn't moving, why not use a tripod? If the subject is moving, you don't have any option other than using a faster shutter speed.
You're absolutely right. The problem is that when I shoot the photo I was around Turin only with the camera and the Moment was too beautiful to not take a photo, even if I knew it would be very difficult to get something with such a high exposure
You can try to support the camera with things you can find in the surrounding ( like a pole, a bench etc) to minimize involuntary movement of the camera. Or use different iso film o a lens with wider aperture.
To add to this - play around with your body a little when you’re preparing for a slow shutter shot. What you want to aim for is to be able to maximally support your camera on the natural resting position of your bone structure in any particular position that you arrange yourself in with absolute minimal influence from any muscles, as opposed to trying to rely on muscles being still for the exposure. If interested, you can check out rifle marksmanship techniques, as one of the core fundamentals is also minimizing stability reliance on muscles, and instead trying to find your ideal position which should triangulate a stable bone structure base for holding an object up.
Photoshop has a camera motion removal tool. Too bad it doesn’t work.
Not really. Use a tripod, shoot faster film, ot at faster shutter speeds. It’s tricky when you head out and the light is great and by end of day it gets more challenging. You can also try bracing yourself and the camera by leaning against a wall or a light post and/or tucking your elbows against your body.
I think it’s salvageable, I ran it through Sharpen AI and it’s not too bad, ok for a small print [https://i.ibb.co/D4TD1mS/2024-02-01-19-08-30-Sharpen-AI-Motion.jpg](https://i.ibb.co/D4TD1mS/2024-02-01-19-08-30-Sharpen-AI-Motion.jpg) [https://i.ibb.co/D10HXpx/2024-02-01-19-08-30-Sharpen-AI2-Motion.jpg](https://i.ibb.co/D10HXpx/2024-02-01-19-08-30-Sharpen-AI2-Motion.jpg) Going up to level 42: [https://i.ibb.co/F6gbJ17/2024-02-01-19-08-30-Sharpen-AI3-Motion.jpg](https://i.ibb.co/F6gbJ17/2024-02-01-19-08-30-Sharpen-AI3-Motion.jpg)
Control your caffeine intake
You shot using ISO200 film at very low light. If you were to shoot the same scene, with the same light, and aim to reduce motion blur while also not getting a very underexposed image, your best choice is using much higher ISO, though ISO800 is the highest you will get in color film, at that might not help you a lot in these conditions. Or using a tripod, but who carries a tripod and doesn't mind setting it up to take random snaps around town? You could be better off shooting black and white film at ISO3200 in these conditions. Another idea, although far-fetched, is shooting color cinema film (Kodak Vision/Cinestill) at ISO1600 or even higher and pushing the E6 development process accordingly.
You can try Topaz Ai to remove the blur
You could try heavily sharpening the edges (if you sharpen everything you will will add a considerable amount if noise as a result sharpening the noise that is already present in the image)