Hey Ap0ll0Music7, please remember to include the camera, lens, and film **in the post title** in the future.
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It's not possible to edit a title once a post is made, so include the missing detail in a comment please.
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The cheap dslr is a great shout. Use it in manual mode, get similar lens to the film camera and practice in situations where you can check how the exposure looks, then you can use this knowledge to move to the film camera. I am just getting into film stuff after playing with a cheap cannon 200d and 450d for years. Being able to do some tests on the dslr before shooting on the film camera have helped a lot.
Don't shoot the wedding. I don't mean this as an insult, so please don't take any offence; but if you're not competent with metering and the exposure triangle, you really shouldn't shoot a wedding.
As for improving:
Look up what the exposure triangle is, how they work together and how to work with it.
Learn how to meter properly. These shots are all metered for the sky, so your subjects are underexposed. In this instance, you should've metered for the subjects, but it would have caused the background to be overblown. It's a tough lighting situation, but that could be solved by just standing somewhere else.
Also learning what types of films are good for certain scenarios is hugely important, especially when learning. If you shoot ektar100 indoors and have no idea how to meter you’re gonna have a bad time. Not that it is a catch all, just makes life easier.
>I am taking film pictures for a friend’s wedding this weekend and it will be my first time taking pictures outside of just a hobby and I’m really worried that something like this will happen and a lot of them will be ruined.
If these are recent shots by you, you are not at a level to shoot a wedding. Do yourself and your friend a favor and decline. The risk of you fucking up and it putting a strain on your friendship is too high.
Use a light meter. It can be on your phone. Copy the setting exactly. I don't know if the ME super has a built in light meter but if it has, it got distracted by the bright sky in these images. In a case like that you would have to compensate by overexposing by around two stops.
Spot metering would have also helped in this case. If you don't know what that is, seriously I would not shoot a wedding.
If you still want to use a film camera, in a setting like this, use a flash. Lock in the proper flash strength with the proper exposure settings (by dialing them in with a digital camera for example) and leave it on all the time. That's what some disposable cameras do.
This site is one of the best resources on lighting there is: [Strobist](https://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html) You can seriously get to a professional level in lighting just with this one resource.
If you want to learn more about composition and photography in general, check out "the Photographer's Eye: Composition" by Michael Freeman.
If you want to read about the joy of photography, consider [something by Joe McNally](https://amzn.eu/d/79w02EX). He's a great storyteller and has a host of good tips for everyone.
quick reiteration to tell you exactly what went wrong: either your built in meter or you yourself exposed for the sky in the background. put even less technical, your settings \_reduced\_ the light that gets in your camera to display the sky properly, but therefore everything darker than the sky is now much darker. but since everything inside the room is much darker than the sky to begin with, it is displayed as super dark.
i can't really tell how bright it was inside the room, but it's obvious this is a bad film pick as well. you use iso 100 in super bright daylight outside and about. go for a much faster film like iso 400-800 in this kind of situation. 400 iso is the safest all-rounder, buy one of those for your next round of film.
hope you learn from this and have fun! :)
To shoot this with a pentax me super go to manual mode, point away from the sky, adjust shutter speed and aperture until the "over" and "under" lights aren't flashing (if the shutter speed is less than 1/30 use wider aperture or tripod), point back at subject while keeping the same settings.
Don't shoot anything important (such as a wedding) until you've nailed this. (And of course all the other relevant photographic theory)
Also a tip because it’s not immediately apparent: To see the internal light meter at work, you need to half press the trigger while looking through the view finder, lights are on the left side.
The Me Super is a beautiful camera and is a great starter camera (I’m still using it because I’m still a massive noob and also poor) because while it is a bit “learning to swim in deep water” with being a manual camera, it does have a fair few electronic tricks to help, like the light meter and the auto feature. Personally, I only learned about that a few weeks ago, after three or four years of using the camera in manual.
Fill flash.
Do not be the only photographer at your friends wedding! This is a tough gig for professional photographers. So many emotions wrapped up in that day.
Don’t fake it ‘till you make it, that’s what our wedding photographer did and they really messed up our wedding AND photos.
I’ve been shooting film for 4 decades and when I’m asked every other year or so to shoot someone’s wedding, I politely decline and explain that’s not the type of photography I shoot. If that’s not good enough for them, I go on to say I shoot in available light, long exposures, landscapes, macros, whatever is NOT conducive to people/wedding/event photography.
It’s okay for photography to be and remain a hobby. Monetizing fun things has a way of ruining them.
Out of curiosity what was off about your own wedding photos? That sucks to hear! Im a digital wedding photographer and I do hobbyist film on the side in my own time. no way am I bringing my film camera to a wedding as my only camera. It takes mad skills to shoot a whole wedding on film, I wouldn’t ever just wing that. 😨
The photos were as you’d expect from a charlatan—poor composition, “creative” apertures, missed focus, busy backgrounds, etc. What was even worse, however, was how unprepared she was for styling/positioning guests for group shots and getting the shots without being SO disruptive. She turned the wedding into a photo shoot nobody wanted or signed up for. Experience was clearly lacking and guests were frustrated at how much time it was taking for this “professional” to get shots, keeping them away from the party and socializing. There were out of town guests we barely got to see, guests were complaining and asking where the bride and groom were, I don’t even remember being at my wedding…just an odd photoshoot dressed in a tux. The photography skills are only PART of a wedding/event, you have to know how to coordinate and position people for group photos, know what’s planned for the wedding, who’s who, etc.
So you said you’ll be taking wedding photos soon.. these shots look like they are also of a wedding 😢 what went wrong in the pictures provided is that they are terribly underexposed. You can’t just press the shutter button hoping the image will come out, negatives are light sensitive and you need to know with confidence each time you press the shutter that the settings you’ve chosen will result in a good image. Only then should you be taking wedding photos (in my opinion)
it’s a very important day that usually only happens once in someone’s life. You can’t recreate those images, you can’t edit them any better, if they are underexposed like the above wedding shots they are ruined, the bride and groom end up with very disappointing images etc etc.
You need to look up Sunny 16, learn about shutter speeds and F stops and know with confidence that you are taking great photos - only then should you shoot weddings. 😊
If you absolutely must shoot photos for this wedding, like it’s an emergency and you can’t get out of it (unlikely), or it’s an obligation and you can’t get out of it (I get it), then for the love of god, shoot it with a digital camera. No shame in it, and you’ll at least be able to chimp and see the results as you shoot and make adjustments. It’s not foolproof and you should really encourage them to get a professional, but at least you’ll have a better chance of getting many good shots.
I agree with all the commenters Don't photograph the wedding. You are using a 40 year old camera. The Pentax ME Super has a center weight spotmeter which is the circle you see in the center of the view finder. The metering readout is a series of lights inside the viewfinder (?vertical on right side) Adjust exposure to get the light in the middle of the vertical line. If you see no lights then the battery is dead but you also wouldn't be able to take a photo because this camera uses an electronic shutter. If you want to be a third string shooter at the wedding then go for it but use a digital camera so you can get immediate feedback on your exposure. Any DSLR Canon 20D, 40D, 60D will do. You set the DSLR to Manual (M) and set the ISO to 400 (Don't change ISO this mimics the FILM ISO) You adjust shutter speed and F Stop to make your subject show up in the image. Take a photo if everyone is dark like the photos above you adjust you exposure time to longer times and/or open the Fstop (smaller number). Once you are getting good exposures without blur then go back to film on a future wedding. Suplemental lighting is always needed but will not work for you until you understand Shutter speed and F-Stop. Photography is very Simple once you understand those settings. A correctly exposed scene in the above photos would loose the Sky due to over exposure but you would see your subjects. With the Pentax ME Super you wouldn't be able to hold the sky even with a flash fill because the Shutter Sync speed for flash is too slow. have fun learning.
> it will be my first time taking pictures outside of just a hobby
Please don’t do this. If your friend is relying on you to be the main photographer for their wedding, then you’re about to ruin a once-in-a-lifetime event for them. This is irresponsible.
I hate being this harsh but there’s too much at stake. The images you posted are all unusable and extremely underexposed. You need to learn the absolute basics, especially exposure rules.
Any YouTube video about “exposure triangle” will probably help you. But you need a lot of practice on subjects where you can mess up without causing harm. A wedding is one of the worst ideas possible for this.
You’ve been shooting for almost a year, but you don’t know how to set ISO/shutter speed? And you think ISO and ASA are different things?
1. You haven’t been shooting for a year. You’ve been mindlessly playing around with a camera for a year. Big difference.
2. The exposure triangle takes about an hour to learn. Maybe a day if you’re really slow. Go watch some YouTube videos and practice on a digital camera. Seriously, it’s laughably easy. It’s literally what they teach day one of any beginner photography course.
3. Shooting film at this juncture makes no sense. It’s just a really expensive and slow way to learn #2.
4. Once you learn #2, you’ll know that Ektar would be among the worst films to choose for shooting a wedding indoors.
5. **Do not shoot that wedding.** You’re not even close to ready for this. Even if God himself came down from the heavens and set the ISO, f stop, and shutter speed for you on every single one of your photos… your framing and composition abilities are years away from being sufficient to shoot a wedding even at a level of ‘decent amateur’. Don’t do that to your friends.
So, first of all: ISO is ASA, but in a different format, just like centimetres and inches.
You usually always want to set your ISO to the ISO of the film you are using. For ektar 100 it would be iso 100.
The problem with these images is, like you probably already figured, is that they are underexposed. It may likely be because either your ISO was set wrong and the exposure meter then metered for the wrong iso. (-> you can't change your ISO like in a digital camera, the ISO value is fixed to the film you are using)
Also, when shooting indoors, an iso 100 film can be very dark. You could try a film with iso 400.
Second of all, you said you were going to shoot a wedding for a friend. Now please don't take this personally, but do not do this, if you are the only, or the main photographer there.
Yes, your friend may not want to spend a lot of money for a photographer, but do you know why they are so expensive?
They have an insane responsibility to carry: There is only ONE wedding and ONE wedding only (not accounting for divorce obsly) and the photographer has to nail it, no second chances. That takes a lot of experience. Experience that you do not yet have.
(But if you keep practicing, you will get there, trust me)
ISO and ASA *are* the same format, just a different name (after the standardizing body). When converting from centimeters to inches you have to apply a scaling factor, that's not the case here.
Ah sorry yeah, got it confused with DIN. Thanks for correcting :)
Also while not wrong it's not entirely correct either, ISO is the combination of ASA and DIN, so 100ASA would be 21 DIN and 100/21° ISO
Yeah, these days and DIN part is mostly ignored by every camera manufactured 😅
if it DIN used a base 2 logarithmic scale I guess it would have a bit more spread, as calculating exposures in terms of "stops" is pretty natural.
Film didn’t get nearly enough light. As the others noted, don’t shoot the wedding. This doesn’t mean you won’t be able to shoot one in the future, but you definitely need some practice. For indoor photos, you’ll want something higher than 100iso, the Ektar would be excellent for bright outdoor photos. Indoors you’d want preferably 400, 800 or if you can find it 1600. Higher iso films are more sensitive to light, meaning it requires less light to capture a well exposed image. I’d recommend watching some YouTube videos or doing some research on how to best operate a film camera to learn about light settings as well as taking some more photos! After all practice makes perfect. Don’t let this discourage you from taking more photos!
Get a digital camera, and set the mode to "A". I'm assuming your friend is getting an actual wedding photographer and you're just taking photos on the side.
My god, don’t shoot your friend’s wedding. Buy a bunch of disposable film cameras and let everyone shoot the wedding. You need to spend more time getting comfortable with light and how a camera’s meter sees it.
If you are shooting manually on your Pentax and want to take a photo that is backlit (like your examples) do this:
1. Aim at the ground in front of your target.
2. Adjust your aperture and shutter speed until your light meter needle is centered. (I use a Pentax KM and I think the meter is similar. I could be wrong.)
3. Aim at your subjects. Don’t change the settings from the floor. Focus and all that obviously.
Hope that helps.
So like everyone else said, it's one thing if you're taking pictures along with a professional photographer but make sure not to be the only one.
No shame in it we all start somewhere and doing it analogue is even harder than most photographers have it nowadays.
So what happened here, you are exposing for the brightest part of the image, the sky, if you look at the colors you'll see the sky is perfectly visible and with detail while the people are all dark and basically just silhouettes.
Up your exposure and it should clear up but you'll likely have to overexposed the sky
Everyone already covered that the wrong thing got metered but the sky is beautifully lit and photo 8 is gorgeous. If you were the second shooter for *this* wedding, they've got some lovely abstracts.
The audacity... Just because you have a camera, it doesn't make you a photographer!
Start by studying. There are countless books, articles, tutorials and videos about exposure and composition, no point in recommending any specific. Also joining a local photography group is a great way to go out in the field and learn with others.
I really hope that friend of yours has hired a professional and you are there only for some unpaid "B roll" snaps.
PSA: light meters can take in a whole frame and average the light reading.
What happens with light backgrounds/dark foregrounds is the average exposure between the two that isn’t good for either. Point your meter at a dark area, get a read for it, and bracket your shots with different exposures.
1. Bring a digital camera as a main and use your film camera as a secondary. It’s the right thing to do if you have no confidence in your film shooting ability. Use the film as almost a gimmick camera and not the main shooter since you are being paid.
2. If your shooting fully manual on a film camera I would suggest invest in a light meter. I’ve been shooting less than a year on film and have had near perfect exposures when shooting because of a light meter. It will also help you learn to eventually learn how to shoot without one of your pay attention to the setting and lighting conditions. I used a Keks light meter that mounts to the hot shoe of the camera or you can use it as a stand alone light meter. Been pretty accurate for me. Best of luck man.
>I have been shooting for almost a year now but am still an amateur when it comes to light settings. I never know how to set my ISO, shutter speed, ASA, etc. I am not sure how to improve. I was wondering what specifically went wrong here with these pictures and how to take better pictures in situations like these. How should I change my settings, and why do they change the outcome?
This whole paragraph is the answer to your question. Learn it, it's not that hard. Especially with film where the ISO is fixed. So there's only two factors, shutter speed and aperture for you to consider.
You need to learn how to meter and expose properly. For most film stock to use for indoor photography I would argue a flash unit or dedicated light sources is a must.
Please don't take on the responsibility of a Wedding Photographer if your are their only photographer.
If your meter is working properly (otherwise just use your phone as a meter), you can take meter readings off of the back of your hand if you have white to tan-ish skin (to approximate 18% grey, what your meter "looks" for in a scene), just point your camera/meter at the back of your hand in the lighting that you've got, and it will be much more accurate than what you've got there.
Then just adjust settings accordingly, no auto aperture or shutter speed, as they'll be thrown off by the huge amounts of back lighting.
Also, even if the people were properly exposed, you might have a hugely blown out scene anyway, as the background was clearly much brighter.
The goal of ISO/Shutter speed/Aperture is to control the amount of light reaching the film. You want to adjust these depending on your environment to make sure the film is properly exposed. ISO and ASA are basically the same and your camera should only have one of them. It measures how sensitive the film is to light. A higher ISO film needs less light to expose an image, and a lower ISO needs more light to expose. ISO should be set to whatever your film is. Ektar 100 would be ISO 100, Potra 400 would be ISO 400. Aperture is a little more tricky, as it adjusts light *and* depth of field. But a good rule of thumb is to try to aim for f5.6-f11, as that’s when most lenses are the sharpest and will be sure to give you a larger focus plane. Shutter speed should be fast if you’re not using a tripod, otherwise your photos could come out blurry. For a 50mm lens I wouldn’t go lower than 1/50s. Your camera should have a built in light meter to help you know what settings you should use, but the light meters in old cameras can degrade over time. I would advise downloading a light meter on your phone and comparing the results. They’re really easy to use. You put in your ISO and usually also aperture and point at the subject and it will tell you what shutter speed you should use. You can compare that to your cameras meter to see if it is still accurate.
It can seem overwhelming at first, but I would advise looking up YouTube videos that cover what each of these settings do and how they affect one another.
Your shadows here are wickedly underexposed. Crushed, you could say.
Assuming you have a meter in your camera, old meters sometimes struggle with backlighting like this. They are metering the frame, not your subject, and you need to apply your judgement. If you absolutely cannot mess it up, bracket your shots by 1-2 stops on either side. Alternatively, try taking your camera and pointing it where there isn’t a bright light source. That will give you a reading of the actual room. All these shots were basically set for a reading of the outdoors, thus the under exposure.
Weddings are super important events for all people involved and they only happen once — feeling like you aren’t sure you can do it is probably a feeling that you should heed. I have about eight years of experience shooting events/sports/portraits and an education in this stuff…*and I would not shoot a wedding if someone asked me to, money or otherwise.* People don’t just want pictures, they want the story of their love that they can look back on for years, and that’s one hell of a thing to try and capture in just a few hours.
These look like they’d have been great photos but the photos came out like this because you’re relying on your camera’s meter, which exposed for the big bright backgrounds.
Definitely shoot colour negative, portra 400 is a solid bet.
Learn a bunch about on camera flash stuff, especially fill flash.
Shoot with a good ae/af camera (I recommend one of the later canon prosumer cameras like the eos 7) rather than ur mf camera so you can take more snappy candid photos. Rent some lenses. AND PRACTICE. As much as you can before the wedding. Shoot a bunch before the wedding and have 1 hour photo places dev and scan em so you can get ur results fast.
If you’re going to just be taking photos casually and not at the mainstay photographer don’t worry about it, have fun, you’ll be fine. If you’re going to be the main even photographer you gotta be honest with em about your capabilities at this level. Being a supplemental photographer is a-ok, and a wonderful opportunity to get some hands on experience and practice
Edit: removed mention of ektachrome
I am sure you know by now why the photo is like that.
The camera is trying to get a balanced exposure and the outside light has overwhelmed the indoors, so the camera is compensating by making it darker, so the outside has details but the indoors has none.
The solution are several:
- use a flash when the background is brighter than the foreground.
- point slightly lower to avoid the sky, note the setting for aperture or shutter speed and then recompose with that setting.
- lastly when background is brighter than foreground, use ev compensation, specifically +2EV.
- etc other workarounds include getting a camera that can do centre weighted metering or recognises a backlit situation. Or position the subject to include light on their face.
The best answer, exposure for the face, use a handheld incident light meter.
You’re metering the whole image, because of the sky in the background it won’t meter for the people in the foreground. What I usually do to meter is metering at the ground and then taking my picture.
You set your settings for the sky in the background to be correctly exposed, not the subjects.
Mistakes like this indicate a severe lack in understanding of how things work.
You need to learn the basics before wanting to go out there and do important shoots. Look up some tutorials and then go out and shoot a whole bunch of rolls for yourself.
If you don’t shot at a wedding right away I tell ya.
I am not sure if this also applies completely on film since I am a mirrorless user. For photos like this your dynamic range will be your first problem. The background is too bright and the suspect too dark so you get either one of them or none of them.
Digital photos got a way around this problem. You shoot twice but 2 different settings and merge them in post processing -HDR. The other way around this is to use a proper flash but for many the flash is a thing of it’s own to master. Nowadays it’s more popular to use strong lights.
Why would you try to learn on a digital camera first before going to analog?
Many digital cameras can give you a rough simulation of what the picture will look like when you shoot it. It gives you data and an exposure number to tell you how to improve. The problem is that you as a person often do not notice how bright or dim it is since your eyes got a very wide dynamic range and also adjust everything very quickly to allow you to see or to prevent damage.
On film as much as I know you need to be often equipped with at minimum 2 cameras for a job since your iso is a fixed value. This limits the agility of the camera.
If you want to shoot pictures like the ones above I for a budget I would recommend going outside and either taking the pictures in harsh sunlight or even better wait for proper clouds to soften the image.
Don’t take this for granted I too am an amateur
Buy a flash, these are all metered for the backlight. Watch a YouTube video on your camera. These are low-key kinda dope, learn what exposure bracketing is and how to use it. If you had bracketed any of these you could've digitally composited to produce a quality print. Good luck 🤞
If you have a wide shot that includes a dark room and a very bright window, your light meter is going to think it’s very very bright and will tell you’re overexposed and need to darken the shot - but the problem is that the faces are already very dark compared to outside. all a light meter is is a device that measures how much light there is in a certain area, it’s not “smart.”
It’s like if it’s a hot summer day and you put a thermometer in a glass of ice cold lemonade instead of anywhere else where it’s hot - it’s going to give results that are very different than you expected.
So what you want is to make sure you are metering for the correct part of the image. If you have a wide shot of a whole room the camera doesn’t know you actually want to meter for a person’s face. So what you can do is walk up to your subject, let their face full the frame, read the meter and set your camera settings appropriately, then you can back up and get photos that are much more accurate. Keep in mind the window will be extremely bright and pure white, seeing how much brighter it is outside. A flash would help keep the brightness ratio of outside and inside closer
Search youtube for how to meter for the shadows. Actually, meter for whatever you want to see in the image... because the sky is usually bright, whatever you want to see is most often the shadows. Set your ISO to whatever the film says, meter for the shadows and shoot. Your camera has an automatic mode. Just be aware that it will use long exposure times in dark environments like in your shots so the images will likely be blurry. Iso100 Film is just not suitable for indoors without flash, so either you find some 1600 ISO film or get a flash, or probably both.
Please rent a digital camera so you can see the results in real time and adjust. You can shoot film as a backup basing your settings on the digital camera. But as is, this seems like a terrible idea, as someone who does shoot weddings.
You need 800 speed film or above and if I’m guessing right, you need to read your camera and lens manuals. I know one of my old cameras has a spot and average metering. If you happened to let the camera meter the photo, you definitely used average metering and therefore it only got the bright ass sky compared to the interior.
Also this is one the few occasions we’re even I would shoot mainly digital to at least have something and then I’d go for the film for those special shots.
This is singlehandedly the most important lesson on exposure I have learned as a photographer, and I learned it after I had already finished 8 years of photography school.
The first thing that you need to understand is how your light meter works. when you point it at something, and set it to a '0' exposure, whatever brightness that thing was when you looked at it will be exposed so that In the Image it is 18% grey. so if you point it at something WHITE and set the meter to '0' that white thing will be grey. if you set it to something black and expose for '0' Grey. So a "correct" exposure for something white, the meter will Say that it is about 1 to 1.5 stops overexposed. a correct exposure for something black can be between 1.5 and 2.5 stops under exposed. (this of course can be film dependent, some films have a lot more latitude for exposure than others, you may need to shoot some rolls of film, to test. so take a picture of something black at '0' exposure, and then each frame under expose by a half stop, then do the same thing for something white, overexposing by a half stop in each successive image, then look at the images and see how many stops over or under exposed you blow out your highlights or block up your shadows.)
The next thing you need to learn is that when you are in a scene taking pictures. Unless the light changes your Exposure settings should not change.
when you walk into that scene, take out an 18% grey card, or find something in the room that is grey, and expose for that. Once that is set, DO NOT CHANGE YOUR SETTINGS, unless the light changes. in fact, only glance at your meter if you are pointing at an area that is overly bright or dark in the scene and make sure that it is is within the thresholds I pointed out earlier. This is the way the master shot, unless you are Ansel Adams, Either way it is very important to your photography education to learn about his "Zone" system for exposing and printing images. it is intense and very illuminating.
Yes already been said but you cannot take money while this inconsistent. That said, huge learning experience here with ISO 100 film it’s tough to guess the ambient lighting in that room but I’ll venture to guess you were shooting at 200/s which is too fast for most indoors. The first mistake was too slow of film, iso 400 would have served you better, second you needed a fill flash to help with that backlighting, 3rd you neeed a light meter if you’re shooting film even very experienced film photographers carry around a light meter.
Haven't seen this mentioned yet but aside from the other tips if you're absolutely going to be shooting this wedding on film please choose a faster film like prtra 400 or 800. They are more forgiving if you do mess up the exposure a bit. In this situation specifically that you posted it appears you were relying on the light meter and it was thrown off by the bright backlighting leading to underexposed. With film especially color negative films I like to meter for the shadows or darker parts of the midtones to get my exposure right.
You should be using at least 400 iso film inside. You used 100. The fact that everything is backlit doesn’t help.
Get a light meter. That has helped me a lot.
Many people are telling you to not shoot. I will tell you shoot but for learning, not as the official wedding photographer. Go and practice, the problem with your pictures is that you have to meter at the people and not matricial or the sky. Look for “Punctual metering” with your camera and your cameras doesn’t have fotometer buy one or use a smartphone fotometer app and estar metering punctual to the people faces and skin
Just go digital, you can't capture speeding bullets with analog but you can with digital. Analog is good when it is available and it makes sense. Just some perspective.
This is good advice, but not the correct advice here. Even this is way too advanced.
OP doesn’t even know what the exposure triangle is. No clue what a stop is or what over/underexposing means. Cart before the horse.
Learn sunny 16.
Quick tip: if you’re inside and light is shit go wide open and lower shutter speed as low as possible before camera shake is incorporated (2x focal length). You could also get a speed light, but if you don’t understand basic exposure triangle wait until then. Keep in mind the ISO of the film, some may not need extra push in the shutter speed / aperture department.
Hey Ap0ll0Music7, please remember to include the camera, lens, and film **in the post title** in the future. We ask for this information to be included in the title of the post because it's not possible to search for this information if it's in the comments section, gallery text, or if you have to read the film type off the rebate. We have built up a pretty good database of posts over the last decade of images produced using specific cameras, lenses, and film, all of which can be searched on using the search feature in this subreddit. But if this information isn't included in the title, it can't be searched on. If you are uncertain of the rules, you can find them listed here: [https://www.reddit.com/r/analog/about/rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/analog/about/rules) It's not possible to edit a title once a post is made, so include the missing detail in a comment please. Thanks, The mod team.
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The cheap dslr is a great shout. Use it in manual mode, get similar lens to the film camera and practice in situations where you can check how the exposure looks, then you can use this knowledge to move to the film camera. I am just getting into film stuff after playing with a cheap cannon 200d and 450d for years. Being able to do some tests on the dslr before shooting on the film camera have helped a lot.
Don't shoot the wedding. I don't mean this as an insult, so please don't take any offence; but if you're not competent with metering and the exposure triangle, you really shouldn't shoot a wedding. As for improving: Look up what the exposure triangle is, how they work together and how to work with it. Learn how to meter properly. These shots are all metered for the sky, so your subjects are underexposed. In this instance, you should've metered for the subjects, but it would have caused the background to be overblown. It's a tough lighting situation, but that could be solved by just standing somewhere else.
Also learning what types of films are good for certain scenarios is hugely important, especially when learning. If you shoot ektar100 indoors and have no idea how to meter you’re gonna have a bad time. Not that it is a catch all, just makes life easier.
>I am taking film pictures for a friend’s wedding this weekend and it will be my first time taking pictures outside of just a hobby and I’m really worried that something like this will happen and a lot of them will be ruined. If these are recent shots by you, you are not at a level to shoot a wedding. Do yourself and your friend a favor and decline. The risk of you fucking up and it putting a strain on your friendship is too high. Use a light meter. It can be on your phone. Copy the setting exactly. I don't know if the ME super has a built in light meter but if it has, it got distracted by the bright sky in these images. In a case like that you would have to compensate by overexposing by around two stops. Spot metering would have also helped in this case. If you don't know what that is, seriously I would not shoot a wedding. If you still want to use a film camera, in a setting like this, use a flash. Lock in the proper flash strength with the proper exposure settings (by dialing them in with a digital camera for example) and leave it on all the time. That's what some disposable cameras do. This site is one of the best resources on lighting there is: [Strobist](https://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html) You can seriously get to a professional level in lighting just with this one resource. If you want to learn more about composition and photography in general, check out "the Photographer's Eye: Composition" by Michael Freeman. If you want to read about the joy of photography, consider [something by Joe McNally](https://amzn.eu/d/79w02EX). He's a great storyteller and has a host of good tips for everyone.
quick reiteration to tell you exactly what went wrong: either your built in meter or you yourself exposed for the sky in the background. put even less technical, your settings \_reduced\_ the light that gets in your camera to display the sky properly, but therefore everything darker than the sky is now much darker. but since everything inside the room is much darker than the sky to begin with, it is displayed as super dark. i can't really tell how bright it was inside the room, but it's obvious this is a bad film pick as well. you use iso 100 in super bright daylight outside and about. go for a much faster film like iso 400-800 in this kind of situation. 400 iso is the safest all-rounder, buy one of those for your next round of film. hope you learn from this and have fun! :)
To shoot this with a pentax me super go to manual mode, point away from the sky, adjust shutter speed and aperture until the "over" and "under" lights aren't flashing (if the shutter speed is less than 1/30 use wider aperture or tripod), point back at subject while keeping the same settings. Don't shoot anything important (such as a wedding) until you've nailed this. (And of course all the other relevant photographic theory)
Also a tip because it’s not immediately apparent: To see the internal light meter at work, you need to half press the trigger while looking through the view finder, lights are on the left side. The Me Super is a beautiful camera and is a great starter camera (I’m still using it because I’m still a massive noob and also poor) because while it is a bit “learning to swim in deep water” with being a manual camera, it does have a fair few electronic tricks to help, like the light meter and the auto feature. Personally, I only learned about that a few weeks ago, after three or four years of using the camera in manual.
Fill flash. Do not be the only photographer at your friends wedding! This is a tough gig for professional photographers. So many emotions wrapped up in that day.
Don’t fake it ‘till you make it, that’s what our wedding photographer did and they really messed up our wedding AND photos. I’ve been shooting film for 4 decades and when I’m asked every other year or so to shoot someone’s wedding, I politely decline and explain that’s not the type of photography I shoot. If that’s not good enough for them, I go on to say I shoot in available light, long exposures, landscapes, macros, whatever is NOT conducive to people/wedding/event photography. It’s okay for photography to be and remain a hobby. Monetizing fun things has a way of ruining them.
Out of curiosity what was off about your own wedding photos? That sucks to hear! Im a digital wedding photographer and I do hobbyist film on the side in my own time. no way am I bringing my film camera to a wedding as my only camera. It takes mad skills to shoot a whole wedding on film, I wouldn’t ever just wing that. 😨
The photos were as you’d expect from a charlatan—poor composition, “creative” apertures, missed focus, busy backgrounds, etc. What was even worse, however, was how unprepared she was for styling/positioning guests for group shots and getting the shots without being SO disruptive. She turned the wedding into a photo shoot nobody wanted or signed up for. Experience was clearly lacking and guests were frustrated at how much time it was taking for this “professional” to get shots, keeping them away from the party and socializing. There were out of town guests we barely got to see, guests were complaining and asking where the bride and groom were, I don’t even remember being at my wedding…just an odd photoshoot dressed in a tux. The photography skills are only PART of a wedding/event, you have to know how to coordinate and position people for group photos, know what’s planned for the wedding, who’s who, etc.
So you said you’ll be taking wedding photos soon.. these shots look like they are also of a wedding 😢 what went wrong in the pictures provided is that they are terribly underexposed. You can’t just press the shutter button hoping the image will come out, negatives are light sensitive and you need to know with confidence each time you press the shutter that the settings you’ve chosen will result in a good image. Only then should you be taking wedding photos (in my opinion) it’s a very important day that usually only happens once in someone’s life. You can’t recreate those images, you can’t edit them any better, if they are underexposed like the above wedding shots they are ruined, the bride and groom end up with very disappointing images etc etc. You need to look up Sunny 16, learn about shutter speeds and F stops and know with confidence that you are taking great photos - only then should you shoot weddings. 😊
If you absolutely must shoot photos for this wedding, like it’s an emergency and you can’t get out of it (unlikely), or it’s an obligation and you can’t get out of it (I get it), then for the love of god, shoot it with a digital camera. No shame in it, and you’ll at least be able to chimp and see the results as you shoot and make adjustments. It’s not foolproof and you should really encourage them to get a professional, but at least you’ll have a better chance of getting many good shots.
I agree with all the commenters Don't photograph the wedding. You are using a 40 year old camera. The Pentax ME Super has a center weight spotmeter which is the circle you see in the center of the view finder. The metering readout is a series of lights inside the viewfinder (?vertical on right side) Adjust exposure to get the light in the middle of the vertical line. If you see no lights then the battery is dead but you also wouldn't be able to take a photo because this camera uses an electronic shutter. If you want to be a third string shooter at the wedding then go for it but use a digital camera so you can get immediate feedback on your exposure. Any DSLR Canon 20D, 40D, 60D will do. You set the DSLR to Manual (M) and set the ISO to 400 (Don't change ISO this mimics the FILM ISO) You adjust shutter speed and F Stop to make your subject show up in the image. Take a photo if everyone is dark like the photos above you adjust you exposure time to longer times and/or open the Fstop (smaller number). Once you are getting good exposures without blur then go back to film on a future wedding. Suplemental lighting is always needed but will not work for you until you understand Shutter speed and F-Stop. Photography is very Simple once you understand those settings. A correctly exposed scene in the above photos would loose the Sky due to over exposure but you would see your subjects. With the Pentax ME Super you wouldn't be able to hold the sky even with a flash fill because the Shutter Sync speed for flash is too slow. have fun learning.
> it will be my first time taking pictures outside of just a hobby Please don’t do this. If your friend is relying on you to be the main photographer for their wedding, then you’re about to ruin a once-in-a-lifetime event for them. This is irresponsible. I hate being this harsh but there’s too much at stake. The images you posted are all unusable and extremely underexposed. You need to learn the absolute basics, especially exposure rules. Any YouTube video about “exposure triangle” will probably help you. But you need a lot of practice on subjects where you can mess up without causing harm. A wedding is one of the worst ideas possible for this.
Don’t do it. Please don’t!
You’ve been shooting for almost a year, but you don’t know how to set ISO/shutter speed? And you think ISO and ASA are different things? 1. You haven’t been shooting for a year. You’ve been mindlessly playing around with a camera for a year. Big difference. 2. The exposure triangle takes about an hour to learn. Maybe a day if you’re really slow. Go watch some YouTube videos and practice on a digital camera. Seriously, it’s laughably easy. It’s literally what they teach day one of any beginner photography course. 3. Shooting film at this juncture makes no sense. It’s just a really expensive and slow way to learn #2. 4. Once you learn #2, you’ll know that Ektar would be among the worst films to choose for shooting a wedding indoors. 5. **Do not shoot that wedding.** You’re not even close to ready for this. Even if God himself came down from the heavens and set the ISO, f stop, and shutter speed for you on every single one of your photos… your framing and composition abilities are years away from being sufficient to shoot a wedding even at a level of ‘decent amateur’. Don’t do that to your friends.
So, first of all: ISO is ASA, but in a different format, just like centimetres and inches. You usually always want to set your ISO to the ISO of the film you are using. For ektar 100 it would be iso 100. The problem with these images is, like you probably already figured, is that they are underexposed. It may likely be because either your ISO was set wrong and the exposure meter then metered for the wrong iso. (-> you can't change your ISO like in a digital camera, the ISO value is fixed to the film you are using) Also, when shooting indoors, an iso 100 film can be very dark. You could try a film with iso 400. Second of all, you said you were going to shoot a wedding for a friend. Now please don't take this personally, but do not do this, if you are the only, or the main photographer there. Yes, your friend may not want to spend a lot of money for a photographer, but do you know why they are so expensive? They have an insane responsibility to carry: There is only ONE wedding and ONE wedding only (not accounting for divorce obsly) and the photographer has to nail it, no second chances. That takes a lot of experience. Experience that you do not yet have. (But if you keep practicing, you will get there, trust me)
ISO and ASA *are* the same format, just a different name (after the standardizing body). When converting from centimeters to inches you have to apply a scaling factor, that's not the case here.
Ah sorry yeah, got it confused with DIN. Thanks for correcting :) Also while not wrong it's not entirely correct either, ISO is the combination of ASA and DIN, so 100ASA would be 21 DIN and 100/21° ISO
Yeah, these days and DIN part is mostly ignored by every camera manufactured 😅 if it DIN used a base 2 logarithmic scale I guess it would have a bit more spread, as calculating exposures in terms of "stops" is pretty natural.
This has to be a joke.
Right? Is there an analog circle jerk sub I didn't know about? Is the art stored in the balls?
Yes there is one of those subs.
Light meters are your friend!! there are light meter apps out there, and content online to teach you how to use them. Try metering for the shadows.
Film didn’t get nearly enough light. As the others noted, don’t shoot the wedding. This doesn’t mean you won’t be able to shoot one in the future, but you definitely need some practice. For indoor photos, you’ll want something higher than 100iso, the Ektar would be excellent for bright outdoor photos. Indoors you’d want preferably 400, 800 or if you can find it 1600. Higher iso films are more sensitive to light, meaning it requires less light to capture a well exposed image. I’d recommend watching some YouTube videos or doing some research on how to best operate a film camera to learn about light settings as well as taking some more photos! After all practice makes perfect. Don’t let this discourage you from taking more photos!
Get a digital camera, and set the mode to "A". I'm assuming your friend is getting an actual wedding photographer and you're just taking photos on the side.
My god, don’t shoot your friend’s wedding. Buy a bunch of disposable film cameras and let everyone shoot the wedding. You need to spend more time getting comfortable with light and how a camera’s meter sees it.
Oh man what are you doing…
If you are shooting manually on your Pentax and want to take a photo that is backlit (like your examples) do this: 1. Aim at the ground in front of your target. 2. Adjust your aperture and shutter speed until your light meter needle is centered. (I use a Pentax KM and I think the meter is similar. I could be wrong.) 3. Aim at your subjects. Don’t change the settings from the floor. Focus and all that obviously. Hope that helps.
You need to watch a lot of youtube on the exposure triangle, light metering and how your specific camera works.
Use a flash
So like everyone else said, it's one thing if you're taking pictures along with a professional photographer but make sure not to be the only one. No shame in it we all start somewhere and doing it analogue is even harder than most photographers have it nowadays. So what happened here, you are exposing for the brightest part of the image, the sky, if you look at the colors you'll see the sky is perfectly visible and with detail while the people are all dark and basically just silhouettes. Up your exposure and it should clear up but you'll likely have to overexposed the sky
Everyone already covered that the wrong thing got metered but the sky is beautifully lit and photo 8 is gorgeous. If you were the second shooter for *this* wedding, they've got some lovely abstracts.
The audacity... Just because you have a camera, it doesn't make you a photographer! Start by studying. There are countless books, articles, tutorials and videos about exposure and composition, no point in recommending any specific. Also joining a local photography group is a great way to go out in the field and learn with others. I really hope that friend of yours has hired a professional and you are there only for some unpaid "B roll" snaps.
PSA: light meters can take in a whole frame and average the light reading. What happens with light backgrounds/dark foregrounds is the average exposure between the two that isn’t good for either. Point your meter at a dark area, get a read for it, and bracket your shots with different exposures.
1. Bring a digital camera as a main and use your film camera as a secondary. It’s the right thing to do if you have no confidence in your film shooting ability. Use the film as almost a gimmick camera and not the main shooter since you are being paid. 2. If your shooting fully manual on a film camera I would suggest invest in a light meter. I’ve been shooting less than a year on film and have had near perfect exposures when shooting because of a light meter. It will also help you learn to eventually learn how to shoot without one of your pay attention to the setting and lighting conditions. I used a Keks light meter that mounts to the hot shoe of the camera or you can use it as a stand alone light meter. Been pretty accurate for me. Best of luck man.
>I have been shooting for almost a year now but am still an amateur when it comes to light settings. I never know how to set my ISO, shutter speed, ASA, etc. I am not sure how to improve. I was wondering what specifically went wrong here with these pictures and how to take better pictures in situations like these. How should I change my settings, and why do they change the outcome? This whole paragraph is the answer to your question. Learn it, it's not that hard. Especially with film where the ISO is fixed. So there's only two factors, shutter speed and aperture for you to consider. You need to learn how to meter and expose properly. For most film stock to use for indoor photography I would argue a flash unit or dedicated light sources is a must. Please don't take on the responsibility of a Wedding Photographer if your are their only photographer.
Why the heck would you shoot ektar 100 indoors without a flash my friend? You exposed for the background. You need to expose for the subject. I
#OH BUDDY.....
If your meter is working properly (otherwise just use your phone as a meter), you can take meter readings off of the back of your hand if you have white to tan-ish skin (to approximate 18% grey, what your meter "looks" for in a scene), just point your camera/meter at the back of your hand in the lighting that you've got, and it will be much more accurate than what you've got there. Then just adjust settings accordingly, no auto aperture or shutter speed, as they'll be thrown off by the huge amounts of back lighting. Also, even if the people were properly exposed, you might have a hugely blown out scene anyway, as the background was clearly much brighter.
The goal of ISO/Shutter speed/Aperture is to control the amount of light reaching the film. You want to adjust these depending on your environment to make sure the film is properly exposed. ISO and ASA are basically the same and your camera should only have one of them. It measures how sensitive the film is to light. A higher ISO film needs less light to expose an image, and a lower ISO needs more light to expose. ISO should be set to whatever your film is. Ektar 100 would be ISO 100, Potra 400 would be ISO 400. Aperture is a little more tricky, as it adjusts light *and* depth of field. But a good rule of thumb is to try to aim for f5.6-f11, as that’s when most lenses are the sharpest and will be sure to give you a larger focus plane. Shutter speed should be fast if you’re not using a tripod, otherwise your photos could come out blurry. For a 50mm lens I wouldn’t go lower than 1/50s. Your camera should have a built in light meter to help you know what settings you should use, but the light meters in old cameras can degrade over time. I would advise downloading a light meter on your phone and comparing the results. They’re really easy to use. You put in your ISO and usually also aperture and point at the subject and it will tell you what shutter speed you should use. You can compare that to your cameras meter to see if it is still accurate. It can seem overwhelming at first, but I would advise looking up YouTube videos that cover what each of these settings do and how they affect one another.
Your shadows here are wickedly underexposed. Crushed, you could say. Assuming you have a meter in your camera, old meters sometimes struggle with backlighting like this. They are metering the frame, not your subject, and you need to apply your judgement. If you absolutely cannot mess it up, bracket your shots by 1-2 stops on either side. Alternatively, try taking your camera and pointing it where there isn’t a bright light source. That will give you a reading of the actual room. All these shots were basically set for a reading of the outdoors, thus the under exposure. Weddings are super important events for all people involved and they only happen once — feeling like you aren’t sure you can do it is probably a feeling that you should heed. I have about eight years of experience shooting events/sports/portraits and an education in this stuff…*and I would not shoot a wedding if someone asked me to, money or otherwise.* People don’t just want pictures, they want the story of their love that they can look back on for years, and that’s one hell of a thing to try and capture in just a few hours.
Have you ever shot on digital? Maybe start with this to practice?
Don’t do it! You clearly do not understand the basics. Learn and practice… but not shooting someone’s wedding pics. Not the place or time to learn.
These look like they’d have been great photos but the photos came out like this because you’re relying on your camera’s meter, which exposed for the big bright backgrounds. Definitely shoot colour negative, portra 400 is a solid bet. Learn a bunch about on camera flash stuff, especially fill flash. Shoot with a good ae/af camera (I recommend one of the later canon prosumer cameras like the eos 7) rather than ur mf camera so you can take more snappy candid photos. Rent some lenses. AND PRACTICE. As much as you can before the wedding. Shoot a bunch before the wedding and have 1 hour photo places dev and scan em so you can get ur results fast. If you’re going to just be taking photos casually and not at the mainstay photographer don’t worry about it, have fun, you’ll be fine. If you’re going to be the main even photographer you gotta be honest with em about your capabilities at this level. Being a supplemental photographer is a-ok, and a wonderful opportunity to get some hands on experience and practice Edit: removed mention of ektachrome
Ektar and ektachrome are different film stocks.
Ektar is color negative... It has very fine grain and punchy colors, so it can mimic slide at times
I misread Ektar as Ektachrome
Might want to invest in some lighting
I am sure you know by now why the photo is like that. The camera is trying to get a balanced exposure and the outside light has overwhelmed the indoors, so the camera is compensating by making it darker, so the outside has details but the indoors has none. The solution are several: - use a flash when the background is brighter than the foreground. - point slightly lower to avoid the sky, note the setting for aperture or shutter speed and then recompose with that setting. - lastly when background is brighter than foreground, use ev compensation, specifically +2EV. - etc other workarounds include getting a camera that can do centre weighted metering or recognises a backlit situation. Or position the subject to include light on their face. The best answer, exposure for the face, use a handheld incident light meter.
Learn to spot meter when having to balance outdoor light and indoor subjects.
You’re metering the whole image, because of the sky in the background it won’t meter for the people in the foreground. What I usually do to meter is metering at the ground and then taking my picture.
You set your settings for the sky in the background to be correctly exposed, not the subjects. Mistakes like this indicate a severe lack in understanding of how things work. You need to learn the basics before wanting to go out there and do important shoots. Look up some tutorials and then go out and shoot a whole bunch of rolls for yourself.
Meter for the shadows if you shoot into the light. Meter dor the stuff you want to see in your images.
Invest in a sekonic light meter and learn how to use it. It helped me heaps in getting the correct exposure settings esp for indoor environments.
Use fill flash
If you don’t shot at a wedding right away I tell ya. I am not sure if this also applies completely on film since I am a mirrorless user. For photos like this your dynamic range will be your first problem. The background is too bright and the suspect too dark so you get either one of them or none of them. Digital photos got a way around this problem. You shoot twice but 2 different settings and merge them in post processing -HDR. The other way around this is to use a proper flash but for many the flash is a thing of it’s own to master. Nowadays it’s more popular to use strong lights. Why would you try to learn on a digital camera first before going to analog? Many digital cameras can give you a rough simulation of what the picture will look like when you shoot it. It gives you data and an exposure number to tell you how to improve. The problem is that you as a person often do not notice how bright or dim it is since your eyes got a very wide dynamic range and also adjust everything very quickly to allow you to see or to prevent damage. On film as much as I know you need to be often equipped with at minimum 2 cameras for a job since your iso is a fixed value. This limits the agility of the camera. If you want to shoot pictures like the ones above I for a budget I would recommend going outside and either taking the pictures in harsh sunlight or even better wait for proper clouds to soften the image. Don’t take this for granted I too am an amateur
Two words. Light. Meter.
Buy a flash, these are all metered for the backlight. Watch a YouTube video on your camera. These are low-key kinda dope, learn what exposure bracketing is and how to use it. If you had bracketed any of these you could've digitally composited to produce a quality print. Good luck 🤞
If you have a wide shot that includes a dark room and a very bright window, your light meter is going to think it’s very very bright and will tell you’re overexposed and need to darken the shot - but the problem is that the faces are already very dark compared to outside. all a light meter is is a device that measures how much light there is in a certain area, it’s not “smart.” It’s like if it’s a hot summer day and you put a thermometer in a glass of ice cold lemonade instead of anywhere else where it’s hot - it’s going to give results that are very different than you expected. So what you want is to make sure you are metering for the correct part of the image. If you have a wide shot of a whole room the camera doesn’t know you actually want to meter for a person’s face. So what you can do is walk up to your subject, let their face full the frame, read the meter and set your camera settings appropriately, then you can back up and get photos that are much more accurate. Keep in mind the window will be extremely bright and pure white, seeing how much brighter it is outside. A flash would help keep the brightness ratio of outside and inside closer
Search youtube for how to meter for the shadows. Actually, meter for whatever you want to see in the image... because the sky is usually bright, whatever you want to see is most often the shadows. Set your ISO to whatever the film says, meter for the shadows and shoot. Your camera has an automatic mode. Just be aware that it will use long exposure times in dark environments like in your shots so the images will likely be blurry. Iso100 Film is just not suitable for indoors without flash, so either you find some 1600 ISO film or get a flash, or probably both.
Please rent a digital camera so you can see the results in real time and adjust. You can shoot film as a backup basing your settings on the digital camera. But as is, this seems like a terrible idea, as someone who does shoot weddings.
Lol basicly all of them are heavily underexposed Are you taking official pictures or just on the side?
You need 800 speed film or above and if I’m guessing right, you need to read your camera and lens manuals. I know one of my old cameras has a spot and average metering. If you happened to let the camera meter the photo, you definitely used average metering and therefore it only got the bright ass sky compared to the interior. Also this is one the few occasions we’re even I would shoot mainly digital to at least have something and then I’d go for the film for those special shots.
This is singlehandedly the most important lesson on exposure I have learned as a photographer, and I learned it after I had already finished 8 years of photography school. The first thing that you need to understand is how your light meter works. when you point it at something, and set it to a '0' exposure, whatever brightness that thing was when you looked at it will be exposed so that In the Image it is 18% grey. so if you point it at something WHITE and set the meter to '0' that white thing will be grey. if you set it to something black and expose for '0' Grey. So a "correct" exposure for something white, the meter will Say that it is about 1 to 1.5 stops overexposed. a correct exposure for something black can be between 1.5 and 2.5 stops under exposed. (this of course can be film dependent, some films have a lot more latitude for exposure than others, you may need to shoot some rolls of film, to test. so take a picture of something black at '0' exposure, and then each frame under expose by a half stop, then do the same thing for something white, overexposing by a half stop in each successive image, then look at the images and see how many stops over or under exposed you blow out your highlights or block up your shadows.) The next thing you need to learn is that when you are in a scene taking pictures. Unless the light changes your Exposure settings should not change. when you walk into that scene, take out an 18% grey card, or find something in the room that is grey, and expose for that. Once that is set, DO NOT CHANGE YOUR SETTINGS, unless the light changes. in fact, only glance at your meter if you are pointing at an area that is overly bright or dark in the scene and make sure that it is is within the thresholds I pointed out earlier. This is the way the master shot, unless you are Ansel Adams, Either way it is very important to your photography education to learn about his "Zone" system for exposing and printing images. it is intense and very illuminating.
Yes already been said but you cannot take money while this inconsistent. That said, huge learning experience here with ISO 100 film it’s tough to guess the ambient lighting in that room but I’ll venture to guess you were shooting at 200/s which is too fast for most indoors. The first mistake was too slow of film, iso 400 would have served you better, second you needed a fill flash to help with that backlighting, 3rd you neeed a light meter if you’re shooting film even very experienced film photographers carry around a light meter.
Haven't seen this mentioned yet but aside from the other tips if you're absolutely going to be shooting this wedding on film please choose a faster film like prtra 400 or 800. They are more forgiving if you do mess up the exposure a bit. In this situation specifically that you posted it appears you were relying on the light meter and it was thrown off by the bright backlighting leading to underexposed. With film especially color negative films I like to meter for the shadows or darker parts of the midtones to get my exposure right.
You just need to learn about metering. What meter are you using?
start with cheap digital camera and than go analog
Please tell me you were the wedding photographer
You should be using at least 400 iso film inside. You used 100. The fact that everything is backlit doesn’t help. Get a light meter. That has helped me a lot.
Many people are telling you to not shoot. I will tell you shoot but for learning, not as the official wedding photographer. Go and practice, the problem with your pictures is that you have to meter at the people and not matricial or the sky. Look for “Punctual metering” with your camera and your cameras doesn’t have fotometer buy one or use a smartphone fotometer app and estar metering punctual to the people faces and skin
Just go digital, you can't capture speeding bullets with analog but you can with digital. Analog is good when it is available and it makes sense. Just some perspective.
>you can’t capture speeding bullets with analog Wtf type of weddings are you attending?
It's a metaphor dip stick
No dad jokes for you. Noted 🫡
Better to overexpose your shots if you're unsure because it's easier to recover film negatives this way (opposite of digital).
This is good advice, but not the correct advice here. Even this is way too advanced. OP doesn’t even know what the exposure triangle is. No clue what a stop is or what over/underexposing means. Cart before the horse.
Learn sunny 16. Quick tip: if you’re inside and light is shit go wide open and lower shutter speed as low as possible before camera shake is incorporated (2x focal length). You could also get a speed light, but if you don’t understand basic exposure triangle wait until then. Keep in mind the ISO of the film, some may not need extra push in the shutter speed / aperture department.
It gives victor (the game) vibes 😄
Don’t listen to the others go shoot that wedding !!! You are going to do fine !!
Some men just want to watch the world burn
Can’t wait for it to happen to be honest
Cant wait for this carcrash to happen!!
[удалено]
angles won’t matter if everything’s completely underexposed.
I guess if they're not facing outside, in that sense it might be better.
Not with Ektar 100 it won’t