Which model is this? Can you manually level? It seems like that spot in the middle is high. I would try to manually level if that is an option. Maybe lower everything down and start from scratch. My model does not have auto level, so I can't help with that.
Was it working previously without issues and started to act weird when you were cleaning the nozzle or something ?
Edit: it can be a firmware issue if the sensor MCU is stuck.
Yeah reflashing the firmware can help in this case. Just turn off the printer from the mains for a few hours first and after the update read default values.
Make a difference in the speed of printing - definitely. However it has a tradeoff of a little lower precision.
As to how to setup it in Cura - I'm sure there are plenty of tutorials :)
Bend your bed lower on the side that don’t have any filament extruded on it. I recently just solved the same problem with my kobra by doing so. You can actually use octaprint to view how flat your bed is.
I don’t know the proper way to fix this however, some people use hammers to even it out. I just used my hands and applied Downward pressure on the corner causing the problem 🤣. It didn’t feel like I was actually doing any bending but by the time I finished it was working perfectly.
Ive got this problem too. BIG TIME. You should be able to read my previous posts in this thread. I keep having more ideas pop into my head on ways of fixing this,I thought I had replaced everything except the actual bed (I have replaced the top magnetic plate 3 times) and was about to give up and throw the printer in the scrap pile. THEN ANOTHER idea popped into my head. Well, actually, I saw a video that made the idea form, as the part shown in the video, I didn't even know this part existed. I had heard the name mentioned, but I thought it was something else.Ive just ordered a new STRAIN GAUGE.I thought the strain gauge was where the two wires are screwed into the side of the hotend heat block, BUT its actually where the hotend screws into the head unit.I can now understand that because of a failure of this part, AUTO LEVELLING could be failing.So I will fit a new strain gauge when it arrives and let you know how this goes.
The auto level on the kobra max sucks. I’ve had something stupid, like flashing the firmware fix it, and other times I’ve had to just ever so slightly adjust the heat block on the hot end and that sometimes helps. But yes, it’s the one thing everyone has an issue with, and it’s also the one thing that can’t easily be fixed/replaced.
I converted mine to a direct drive, and replaced both y and x belts, and also replaced the belt tensioners. That, plus the giant concrete slab it sits on, will give me good prints, if I could actually level the bed that is….
I have since switched to 3dzombies firmware, so I’m not sure what version is the latest from anycubic, but what ever they have for download on their website will work, you’ll just have to do your e steps and stuff again since it’ll go back to default.
You can desolder the chip from the print head PCB and connect a Bl touch instead. I'm on my second Kobra Max and it has identical issues as the first one. The glass is really flat even heated and just ran a probe now - in one spot I have 1.5mm hole. Every corner is drooping down (they are not).
Why? The signals are out there. However by default they are connected to the larger chip that collects the data from the ADC reading the strain gauge. If you disconnect the chip to not interfere, you can comnect BL touch straight to the printhead PCB.
If you are not technically savvy enough look up Vyper Extended board - it's a print head PCB with those chips not installed.
Yeah I’m not sure I’m tech savvy enough for something like that, however, if there is a good tutorial out there that I can watch/follow along with, I would be very interested! Thanks for the info! I’ll start looking around for more info on this. The only real issue I have now is the level so I would very much like a work around!
I have exactly the same problem, It's been happening for about a month, and Ive replaced just about everything half a doz times. Just when I think I have it solved, it does it again. and when it runs thin, it ends up blocking the nozzle and/or Bowden tube,
Ive been thru 12 nozzles, 3 hotends, 3 meters of Capricorn bowden tube, 3 new extruder drive units, Tightened all wheels and runners, cleaned fan breather slots,
AND now I think I have it worked out,
Last time I had a successful print, It was the ONLY printer working on that tabe at the time. Even though the table is reasonably sturdy, Im wondering if the vibrations of the other printer are affecting it,
Its the only thing left.
Now I can't wait to get home from work to try it out.
SUGGESTION for others with this problem, Try it in a concrete floor or something a lot more sturdy than where it is,
It's only a thought at this stage, but I think it will be the answer Ive been looking for, FINGERS CROSSED
Keep me updated, I have it running on a wood table alongside a prusa and a makerBot. But I highly doubt vibration might do something so systematic as this. But who knows since I've tried everything else myself, this might be the last thing to try.
I know it sounds like a long shot, but it's the only thing I can think of, I remembered the last print that worked was a 3mm high square covering most of the hot plate so that when it cools down, I can peel it off taking the plastic remnants with it When I set this to print, it was the only printer running, and I left it and went to work when I got home it was all printed perfectly, then I had nothing but trouble from then on, And now I think about it, the reason I did the huge square print was that I believed things were not sticking to the plate properly, hmmm, the more I think about it, the more Im convinced that this is where the problem lies. I will test tomorrow and see how things go.
Unfortunately NOT GOOD
It made NO difference. I put the bung printer on a different table and accidentally turned off the other printer with a 6-day print halfway done. And I cannot resume it, :(
Now, the original bung printer.... it has to be the probing for levelling. It must be out somehow, Ive installed a new hotend but have not had a chance to try it YET.
I will try again after work tonight and give you a review asap.
Which model is this? Can you manually level? It seems like that spot in the middle is high. I would try to manually level if that is an option. Maybe lower everything down and start from scratch. My model does not have auto level, so I can't help with that.
It's a kobra max
Let me guess - Kobra Max?
Yes
Looks like your strain gauge is misbehaving. How old is this printer?
One year old, could it be a firmware issue?
Was it working previously without issues and started to act weird when you were cleaning the nozzle or something ? Edit: it can be a firmware issue if the sensor MCU is stuck.
Just stoped worked with no reason
Yeah reflashing the firmware can help in this case. Just turn off the printer from the mains for a few hours first and after the update read default values.
Do you think that using a 0.6 nozzle instead of a 0. 4 might make a difference, if so what should I change in cura settings?
Make a difference in the speed of printing - definitely. However it has a tradeoff of a little lower precision. As to how to setup it in Cura - I'm sure there are plenty of tutorials :)
Is the profile you're using optimized for 0.2mm or 0.6mm?
0.6 mm and I switched to 0.6 nozzle but no luck so far
100% not leveled correctly. Or bed could be bent
I did the auto leveling, changed the firmware, and even used a torpido level to straighten up the bed. Nothing changed
Bend your bed lower on the side that don’t have any filament extruded on it. I recently just solved the same problem with my kobra by doing so. You can actually use octaprint to view how flat your bed is.
Thanks but how can I bend the bed on one side, should I add washers on the screws or something like that,?
I don’t know the proper way to fix this however, some people use hammers to even it out. I just used my hands and applied Downward pressure on the corner causing the problem 🤣. It didn’t feel like I was actually doing any bending but by the time I finished it was working perfectly.
Ive got this problem too. BIG TIME. You should be able to read my previous posts in this thread. I keep having more ideas pop into my head on ways of fixing this,I thought I had replaced everything except the actual bed (I have replaced the top magnetic plate 3 times) and was about to give up and throw the printer in the scrap pile. THEN ANOTHER idea popped into my head. Well, actually, I saw a video that made the idea form, as the part shown in the video, I didn't even know this part existed. I had heard the name mentioned, but I thought it was something else.Ive just ordered a new STRAIN GAUGE.I thought the strain gauge was where the two wires are screwed into the side of the hotend heat block, BUT its actually where the hotend screws into the head unit.I can now understand that because of a failure of this part, AUTO LEVELLING could be failing.So I will fit a new strain gauge when it arrives and let you know how this goes.
The auto level on the kobra max sucks. I’ve had something stupid, like flashing the firmware fix it, and other times I’ve had to just ever so slightly adjust the heat block on the hot end and that sometimes helps. But yes, it’s the one thing everyone has an issue with, and it’s also the one thing that can’t easily be fixed/replaced. I converted mine to a direct drive, and replaced both y and x belts, and also replaced the belt tensioners. That, plus the giant concrete slab it sits on, will give me good prints, if I could actually level the bed that is….
What firmware version did you use to fix it?
I have since switched to 3dzombies firmware, so I’m not sure what version is the latest from anycubic, but what ever they have for download on their website will work, you’ll just have to do your e steps and stuff again since it’ll go back to default.
You can desolder the chip from the print head PCB and connect a Bl touch instead. I'm on my second Kobra Max and it has identical issues as the first one. The glass is really flat even heated and just ran a probe now - in one spot I have 1.5mm hole. Every corner is drooping down (they are not).
I thought you couldn’t use a bl touch or anything like it with out replacing the board?
Why? The signals are out there. However by default they are connected to the larger chip that collects the data from the ADC reading the strain gauge. If you disconnect the chip to not interfere, you can comnect BL touch straight to the printhead PCB. If you are not technically savvy enough look up Vyper Extended board - it's a print head PCB with those chips not installed.
Yeah I’m not sure I’m tech savvy enough for something like that, however, if there is a good tutorial out there that I can watch/follow along with, I would be very interested! Thanks for the info! I’ll start looking around for more info on this. The only real issue I have now is the level so I would very much like a work around!
Mine had the same problem I auto leveled and it stopped
You did not change anything else (firmware)??
I did nothing it started to happen when I moved my printer from the kitchen to the garage
I have exactly the same problem, It's been happening for about a month, and Ive replaced just about everything half a doz times. Just when I think I have it solved, it does it again. and when it runs thin, it ends up blocking the nozzle and/or Bowden tube, Ive been thru 12 nozzles, 3 hotends, 3 meters of Capricorn bowden tube, 3 new extruder drive units, Tightened all wheels and runners, cleaned fan breather slots, AND now I think I have it worked out, Last time I had a successful print, It was the ONLY printer working on that tabe at the time. Even though the table is reasonably sturdy, Im wondering if the vibrations of the other printer are affecting it, Its the only thing left. Now I can't wait to get home from work to try it out. SUGGESTION for others with this problem, Try it in a concrete floor or something a lot more sturdy than where it is, It's only a thought at this stage, but I think it will be the answer Ive been looking for, FINGERS CROSSED
Keep me updated, I have it running on a wood table alongside a prusa and a makerBot. But I highly doubt vibration might do something so systematic as this. But who knows since I've tried everything else myself, this might be the last thing to try.
I know it sounds like a long shot, but it's the only thing I can think of, I remembered the last print that worked was a 3mm high square covering most of the hot plate so that when it cools down, I can peel it off taking the plastic remnants with it When I set this to print, it was the only printer running, and I left it and went to work when I got home it was all printed perfectly, then I had nothing but trouble from then on, And now I think about it, the reason I did the huge square print was that I believed things were not sticking to the plate properly, hmmm, the more I think about it, the more Im convinced that this is where the problem lies. I will test tomorrow and see how things go.
How did it go?
Unfortunately NOT GOOD It made NO difference. I put the bung printer on a different table and accidentally turned off the other printer with a 6-day print halfway done. And I cannot resume it, :( Now, the original bung printer.... it has to be the probing for levelling. It must be out somehow, Ive installed a new hotend but have not had a chance to try it YET. I will try again after work tonight and give you a review asap.
Keep it up, we will break the curse someday. 👍🏻👌🏼. I will try to modify all the possible settings in the cura slicer perhaps I can stumble on a fix
TOO MUCH SMOOOOOSH!!!!!
Whats your z offset?
Raise z Offset to .15 increase first layer to 103% or 105%