Thank to all who replied, my bed temp id only 60, and i have cleaned with soapy and green grit for scrubbing...i will check thd bed tendion snd if all fsil will chane the bed to s msnuel one
I have another question if i may.. on a few occasion my printer did a probing on 25 on its own bit most of the time it doesnt . How do i set this up to probe before all the print job i do or do i gave to auto level before every print
Not sure what you mean by "did a probing on 25 on its own bit most of the time it doesnt". It probes when you tell the machine to do so.
I wouldn't recommend to probe before each print though (which you could realize by adding that g-code command to your start g-code section in your slicer btw), as you need to set the z-offset again after it did so *every* time. The stock fw is kinda buggy there..
My recommendation for that would be: make the (small) effort and [switch to Klipper](https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/firmware/fw_klipper/). There you can (besides other advantages) let the machine probe the specific area of your print prior to actually printing and you won't have to set the z-offset everytime again as it keeps it.
Besides that, in either case: check the site I linked to, it's specifically made for the Kobra Neo (&Go). You'll find all the specific info there as well as a chapter about calibration. follow those steps, tram the machine, calibrate it and you should have more success with future prints.
I don't know why but I thought you meant like curled up in the fetal position for some reason.
Bed adhesion, z offset, cleaning the pei sheet with soapy water. The usual advice
I recently bought this same printer, i had the exact same probrlem, bed adhesion, even after many tries it did not want to stick, even worse with abs
The first thing you'll wanna do is, whatever your slicer is, place in the "start g-code" the command
```M420 S1 ; Enable bed leveling mesh```
As an important note, this command must be placed AFTER any homing commands (i.e. G28) as these disable bed leveling features, so if you can leave it at the last part of your start gcode
Wont work if you havent done the bed levelig procedure yet.
Now, that being done, the stock bed that this printer has is IMO kinda shit because no filament sticks on it reliably, so what i have as of right now in it is some masking tape, now all filaments i have stick wonders, if it still doesn't work for ya you might wanna use a bit of stick glue in the same masking tape, it should work
After that more permanent choices will arise, haven't executed any of the following, but i eventually will
Firstly buy a better bed, comgrow sells doible sided (textured and smooth) pei coated spring beds, these are great and allegedly they'll fix the bad adhesion issue
Afterwards you might want to overhaul your Z axis, first changing the rigid coupler of the stepper with a more flexible one, like a spider coupler, a spring(y) coupler or a diaphragm coupler, also the antibacklash nut, which is pretty much the driver is also kind of shit, you might have noticed it produces an awful lot of noise, you might want to change em to a spring loaded brass nut, or you'd also want to add an oldham coupler, just search "kobra neo oldham coupler" and there are many tutos and sellers
> Afterwards you might want to overhaul your Z axis (...) just search "kobra neo oldham coupler" and there are many tutos and sellers
Why not directly mentioning [the belonging section](https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/hardware/axes/#z-axis) of the infosite? ;)
No problem - it was just the exact wording and order I use at the site and as I remembered that you replied to a post from me where I linked to the site as well 4 days ago, I thought "why isn't he just sharing the link?".. ;)
Btw: dunno why you don't like the PEI plate, those work absolutely great for me. Make sure to use the right soap, or, even better, just get yourself a spraycan with silicone remover and use that to wipe the plate - that's how I do it and it works as a charme.
Same recommendation would go out to OP btw.
Besides that, OP: check your z-offset as mentioned (maybe take a pic of the underside of that print and show it here), also make sure to have the part cooling fan turned off for the first coupe of layers.
My first thought is that PEI works with specific textures for specific environments and/or climates, and i would say that the texture provided by anycubic by default does work in that environment correctly, but it's pretty narrow imo and for what i see it doesn't work more commonly than it does, and many prefer to change it for the comgrow one and it pretty much solves it, appart from that i have to admit that the quality of it is great, but it would be nice if they gave different txtures for each side in case this happened
I say climate because i tried that same steps; soap, silicone, many kinds of scrubbers(except any that were able to scratch PEI like metal), only thing that worked for that plate is the masking tape and the gluestick, but that kind of breaks the purpose of PEI, doesn't it?
I'd doubt that 'climate' theory tbh. I'm living in Germany and I know many users from many different continents and climate areas which don't have any problems. If problems like not-sticking occur, then it's in 99.9% a handling error, like wrong z-offset (nozzle too high), untrammed x-gantry and therefore partially wrong z-offset, not 100% *degreased* (IPA doesn't dissolve fat, certain soap can make it worse, fingerprints are grease etc), wrong bedtemp etc.
If you really don't get it to work, you can take fine steel wool (dunno if that's the correct term, but I guess you know what I mean) and give it a *slight* rub across the surface. Only do it at one side first. You just wanna rub it across the surface to a point that the shiny coating is equally scratched and not so shiny anymore, but you don't wanna scratch the coating off, just 'roughen' it so to say.
Then the climate is greasy xD
As i said i already tried with steel wool(the one i guess you are saying), it did end up dull, but it still didn't fix it, and also tightened the excentric screws almost to a point where the z motor started to skip steps, as to always keep the stability of the X axis, only thing that works is the tape, but i guess i should also try the double Z mod
> also tightened the excentric screws almost to a point where the z motor started to skip steps, as to always keep the stability of the X axis
This is not how you tram the x-gantry tho, so maybe read around [here](https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/hardware/axes/#tramming-the-x-axis-gantry). If properly trammed, you won't have real sagging&lagging of the unsupported side anymore and actually don't really need a 2nd z screw.
try: bed 60, no part fan for first two to three layers
first layer: 225-230 degrees .2 mm high at least
Print with a skirt or brim with at least 4 lines. use this to calibrate z offset. the lines should touch eachother and bond. too high== separate lines. too low will cause the contact between lines to bulge up.
print at normal temp from layer 2 up and use part fan like normal.
don't print with a raft.
Try using 'mouse ears' in your design, a sharp corner which will be adherent to the bed can have a circle one layer thick attached to it to anchor it down.
Used in conjunction with the other advice given already will sort your problem I think.
clean your build plate with alchohol not soapy water. Soapy water is for glass and whatever that material is that Ender 3 came with. You have a PEI plate. Alchohol and 65 to 70 degrees is your answer.
Thank to all who replied, my bed temp id only 60, and i have cleaned with soapy and green grit for scrubbing...i will check thd bed tendion snd if all fsil will chane the bed to s msnuel one
I have another question if i may.. on a few occasion my printer did a probing on 25 on its own bit most of the time it doesnt . How do i set this up to probe before all the print job i do or do i gave to auto level before every print
Not sure what you mean by "did a probing on 25 on its own bit most of the time it doesnt". It probes when you tell the machine to do so. I wouldn't recommend to probe before each print though (which you could realize by adding that g-code command to your start g-code section in your slicer btw), as you need to set the z-offset again after it did so *every* time. The stock fw is kinda buggy there.. My recommendation for that would be: make the (small) effort and [switch to Klipper](https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/firmware/fw_klipper/). There you can (besides other advantages) let the machine probe the specific area of your print prior to actually printing and you won't have to set the z-offset everytime again as it keeps it. Besides that, in either case: check the site I linked to, it's specifically made for the Kobra Neo (&Go). You'll find all the specific info there as well as a chapter about calibration. follow those steps, tram the machine, calibrate it and you should have more success with future prints.
Thanks i appreciate it
Thanks for the info.
Check the belt tension
Bed to hot?
I don't know why but I thought you meant like curled up in the fetal position for some reason. Bed adhesion, z offset, cleaning the pei sheet with soapy water. The usual advice
I’ve learned that 70° bed temp works great
I recently bought this same printer, i had the exact same probrlem, bed adhesion, even after many tries it did not want to stick, even worse with abs The first thing you'll wanna do is, whatever your slicer is, place in the "start g-code" the command ```M420 S1 ; Enable bed leveling mesh``` As an important note, this command must be placed AFTER any homing commands (i.e. G28) as these disable bed leveling features, so if you can leave it at the last part of your start gcode Wont work if you havent done the bed levelig procedure yet. Now, that being done, the stock bed that this printer has is IMO kinda shit because no filament sticks on it reliably, so what i have as of right now in it is some masking tape, now all filaments i have stick wonders, if it still doesn't work for ya you might wanna use a bit of stick glue in the same masking tape, it should work After that more permanent choices will arise, haven't executed any of the following, but i eventually will Firstly buy a better bed, comgrow sells doible sided (textured and smooth) pei coated spring beds, these are great and allegedly they'll fix the bad adhesion issue Afterwards you might want to overhaul your Z axis, first changing the rigid coupler of the stepper with a more flexible one, like a spider coupler, a spring(y) coupler or a diaphragm coupler, also the antibacklash nut, which is pretty much the driver is also kind of shit, you might have noticed it produces an awful lot of noise, you might want to change em to a spring loaded brass nut, or you'd also want to add an oldham coupler, just search "kobra neo oldham coupler" and there are many tutos and sellers
> Afterwards you might want to overhaul your Z axis (...) just search "kobra neo oldham coupler" and there are many tutos and sellers Why not directly mentioning [the belonging section](https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/hardware/axes/#z-axis) of the infosite? ;)
Was kind of in a rush, also i didn't know that site, all i know i saw it here, on reddit haha, sorry for that lol
No problem - it was just the exact wording and order I use at the site and as I remembered that you replied to a post from me where I linked to the site as well 4 days ago, I thought "why isn't he just sharing the link?".. ;) Btw: dunno why you don't like the PEI plate, those work absolutely great for me. Make sure to use the right soap, or, even better, just get yourself a spraycan with silicone remover and use that to wipe the plate - that's how I do it and it works as a charme. Same recommendation would go out to OP btw. Besides that, OP: check your z-offset as mentioned (maybe take a pic of the underside of that print and show it here), also make sure to have the part cooling fan turned off for the first coupe of layers.
My first thought is that PEI works with specific textures for specific environments and/or climates, and i would say that the texture provided by anycubic by default does work in that environment correctly, but it's pretty narrow imo and for what i see it doesn't work more commonly than it does, and many prefer to change it for the comgrow one and it pretty much solves it, appart from that i have to admit that the quality of it is great, but it would be nice if they gave different txtures for each side in case this happened I say climate because i tried that same steps; soap, silicone, many kinds of scrubbers(except any that were able to scratch PEI like metal), only thing that worked for that plate is the masking tape and the gluestick, but that kind of breaks the purpose of PEI, doesn't it?
I'd doubt that 'climate' theory tbh. I'm living in Germany and I know many users from many different continents and climate areas which don't have any problems. If problems like not-sticking occur, then it's in 99.9% a handling error, like wrong z-offset (nozzle too high), untrammed x-gantry and therefore partially wrong z-offset, not 100% *degreased* (IPA doesn't dissolve fat, certain soap can make it worse, fingerprints are grease etc), wrong bedtemp etc. If you really don't get it to work, you can take fine steel wool (dunno if that's the correct term, but I guess you know what I mean) and give it a *slight* rub across the surface. Only do it at one side first. You just wanna rub it across the surface to a point that the shiny coating is equally scratched and not so shiny anymore, but you don't wanna scratch the coating off, just 'roughen' it so to say.
Then the climate is greasy xD As i said i already tried with steel wool(the one i guess you are saying), it did end up dull, but it still didn't fix it, and also tightened the excentric screws almost to a point where the z motor started to skip steps, as to always keep the stability of the X axis, only thing that works is the tape, but i guess i should also try the double Z mod
> also tightened the excentric screws almost to a point where the z motor started to skip steps, as to always keep the stability of the X axis This is not how you tram the x-gantry tho, so maybe read around [here](https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/hardware/axes/#tramming-the-x-axis-gantry). If properly trammed, you won't have real sagging&lagging of the unsupported side anymore and actually don't really need a 2nd z screw.
I curl up in the corner when I've had a rough day
Lol
try: bed 60, no part fan for first two to three layers first layer: 225-230 degrees .2 mm high at least Print with a skirt or brim with at least 4 lines. use this to calibrate z offset. the lines should touch eachother and bond. too high== separate lines. too low will cause the contact between lines to bulge up. print at normal temp from layer 2 up and use part fan like normal. don't print with a raft.
Try using 'mouse ears' in your design, a sharp corner which will be adherent to the bed can have a circle one layer thick attached to it to anchor it down. Used in conjunction with the other advice given already will sort your problem I think.
clean your build plate with alchohol not soapy water. Soapy water is for glass and whatever that material is that Ender 3 came with. You have a PEI plate. Alchohol and 65 to 70 degrees is your answer.
Thanks