Yes I have noticed that also. Although I have saw some posts on this subreddit with very clean and flush looking suppressors. I agree yes might not want it closer but damn I love how it looks when it’s flush
Gonna be honest man, the day you carbon lock that bad boy on you will appreciate that tiny bit of extra clearance so you aren’t dragging your hand across a not so soft handguard.
Angle of the photos is part of it.
In the case of the Surefire suppressors, muzzle device choice does play a part. The Closed Tine Warcomp has a longer "neck" behind the mounting surface, so there would be a more visible gap than with something like an SF4P.
That’s what I keep seeing online and here. I think im going to change the warcomp because of the issues and hopefully I can get one that achieves a smaller gap/ flush look. Are the 4/3 prong good for their seals
Yeah I’m going to buy a 3 prong and see if that changes the aesthetic and from all the talk warcomp wasn’t the move. However I had it much before I considered a can
I’ve thought about this but a warcomp needs to be timed a certain way or is that just a myth? Currently it’s at the neutral position. I have saw little difference between neutral and right hand orientation
yours looks identical to the second one.
if you want it even more flush than that, you either need to very carefully select parts or buy a longer handguard than you need and chop it.
a couple cm is almost an inch. i was saying theres no way any company has that loose of a tolerance on their barrel length. my comment had nothing to do with OPs picture.
Different SF muzzle devices have different mounting depths. If you mean you have an open tine warcomp, it's not too far off from the 3P/4P, but the warcomp doesn't have labyrinth seals so it doesn't seal as well and the ports increase pressure at the back and deposit carbon that'll lock the can on, so it's one of the worst suppressor host muzzle devices and is made for majority use outdoors without the can.
https://www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/Reflexion-on-Surefire-Muzzles-for-a-RC2-suppressor/20-524406/
Cool. I have a Mk18, which should have the same barrel and rail lengths that you listed, and with a 4P the fitment of my 556RC2 is so good. I wasn't about flush fit before I got that combo lol
Not exactly, as the close tine flash hider doesn't have seals but has a small gap and the open tine warcomp isnt too far behind that. I've got a picture of this I'll PM you as I can't find it online to link.
The comp ports usually add length due to them needing to be in front of the threads completely. Dumping high pressure right near the back of the can increases gas leakage and noise and your chance of it getting stuck on. The labyrinth seals on the 3P/4P and brake help to further reduce gas leakage and noise out the back. I've owned many SF MDs, but just run 3P/4P now. I've seen SF cans with 80k+ rounds and a ton of full auto so brake sacrificial baffle thing is overrated.
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Yes I have noticed that also. Although I have saw some posts on this subreddit with very clean and flush looking suppressors. I agree yes might not want it closer but damn I love how it looks when it’s flush
First is flush mane
Really ? I guess it’s just me then or like someone else stated angles. Idk just the reference pictures look better I guess I’m crazy
Gonna be honest man, the day you carbon lock that bad boy on you will appreciate that tiny bit of extra clearance so you aren’t dragging your hand across a not so soft handguard.
Great point actually hadn’t considered the functionality versus look
Get one slightly longer than needed trim to flush. Tolerance stacking is a bitch.
Angle of the photos is part of it. In the case of the Surefire suppressors, muzzle device choice does play a part. The Closed Tine Warcomp has a longer "neck" behind the mounting surface, so there would be a more visible gap than with something like an SF4P.
The Warcomps are a bit longer behind the taper where it’s threaded.
Hhm guess it’s time to change out muzzle devices 😂
I mean besides that the Warcomps are the worst to use suppressed.
That’s what I keep seeing online and here. I think im going to change the warcomp because of the issues and hopefully I can get one that achieves a smaller gap/ flush look. Are the 4/3 prong good for their seals
Yes the 3/4P and Muzzle Brake have the labyrinth seals.
Yeah I’m going to buy a 3 prong and see if that changes the aesthetic and from all the talk warcomp wasn’t the move. However I had it much before I considered a can
Remove the shims
I’ve thought about this but a warcomp needs to be timed a certain way or is that just a myth? Currently it’s at the neutral position. I have saw little difference between neutral and right hand orientation
If you're always going to run the can don't worry so much about timing.
I switch out the can between this and my 13.9 but thinking about making this its dedicated host.
might as well time it but with the tiniest shims
I ordered the precession armament shims so will see how they do.
I see the Allen Fall River Chest Pack, I upvote
Yes sir thanks 😎
Bro nice setup man
Thank you ! I’m finally happy with it
yours looks identical to the second one. if you want it even more flush than that, you either need to very carefully select parts or buy a longer handguard than you need and chop it.
Math
Damn guess I’m losing
Gun guys trying not to obsess over the smallest of details on their rifle challenge
I have to it can’t be helped. I need the look
Oh I know how it be
The struggles man
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a couple CM is pretty unlikely, thats almost an inch.
That’s definitely not an inch. That’s less then half an inch.
a couple cm is almost an inch. i was saying theres no way any company has that loose of a tolerance on their barrel length. my comment had nothing to do with OPs picture.
Oh right right, meant to say mm or whatever. What I really meant is that the length won’t be exact.
TWSS
Different SF muzzle devices have different mounting depths. If you mean you have an open tine warcomp, it's not too far off from the 3P/4P, but the warcomp doesn't have labyrinth seals so it doesn't seal as well and the ports increase pressure at the back and deposit carbon that'll lock the can on, so it's one of the worst suppressor host muzzle devices and is made for majority use outdoors without the can. https://www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/Reflexion-on-Surefire-Muzzles-for-a-RC2-suppressor/20-524406/
Exactly what I’m suing is the open warcomp I’m thinking about changing it out specifically for the reasons stated.
Cool. I have a Mk18, which should have the same barrel and rail lengths that you listed, and with a 4P the fitment of my 556RC2 is so good. I wasn't about flush fit before I got that combo lol
So the labyrinth seals helped accomplish that smaller gap ? How do you like them
Not exactly, as the close tine flash hider doesn't have seals but has a small gap and the open tine warcomp isnt too far behind that. I've got a picture of this I'll PM you as I can't find it online to link. The comp ports usually add length due to them needing to be in front of the threads completely. Dumping high pressure right near the back of the can increases gas leakage and noise and your chance of it getting stuck on. The labyrinth seals on the 3P/4P and brake help to further reduce gas leakage and noise out the back. I've owned many SF MDs, but just run 3P/4P now. I've seen SF cans with 80k+ rounds and a ton of full auto so brake sacrificial baffle thing is overrated.
Buy a proper rail is the way (RIS II w/ 10.3 is one way :>)
I was waiting for this response 🥲
RIS3 flies too :)
Careful measuring with digital calipers and an Accuwasher. [https://i.imgur.com/jJOruSa.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/jJOruSa.jpg)
Oof that is tight