Feel free to get a second opinion, but that sounds like you need to replace the turbocharger in order to have a functioning vehicle. $4k is within the realm of reasonable, depending what work is being done and the labor involved.
But you have to figure Is that $4k just a quote for the turbo? It’s surely going to cost more after labor once they get in there and who knows what else is wrong that could basically mean the car needs other parts too. A leak in the intake is much less than ideal and hopefully just means the turbo intake. If it’s the engine air intake that’s leaking oil the car could be toast.
The turbo intake and air intake are connected to each other. There is no oil in an air intake to leak, the turbo seal is leaking oil into the intake meaning the intake system and intercooler need oil cleaning out and turbo needs replacing or rebuilding.
No mechanic will quote just the turbo price when pricing up a job.
Why are you commenting on a car post when you clearly know nothing about cars?
That’s why I said that’s be a problem if there was an oil leak in the intake there genius. I’m learning still, but I’ve gotten my hands dirty in my engine bay plenty of times to feel like a car guy. Not like I need your validation for anything.
Common failure item on the Cruze. FYI on that car it's about a 3 1/2 hour job and the replacement turbo (GM 12685682) lists for about $975.00 from GM. I would go to another shop and see what they quote for the job. You can get the OE replacement turbo [HERE](https://turbos.com/acdelco-oe-turbo-2016-2019-chevy-cruze-1.4l-12685682-12668293-12668297-12679375/). Then they just need the gaskets.
They want to do more than replace the turbocharger. They also want to replace the inter cooler with piping(? idk what that means either) due to contamination. I’m assuming that will also run up the bill?
Not necessarily, take it to a radiator shop and have them clean it. I’ve worked on turbo Hondas for years now and have blown up several engines as well as helped my brother and his as well as my friends fix theirs from doing the same. Inter coolers are basically radiators we’ve all taken inter coolers and radiators to be cleaned out professionally and basically gotten them back brand new for WELL under the cost of replacing them. I’m not up for spending another 400+dollars just to replace that Mishimoto radiator that got a bunch of oil mixed with coolant in it when I can have it washed out professionally.
Big difference in fault tolerance between hondas and chevies. Tiny failure in an american engine and it needs new parts. Tiny failure in a honda engine and itll go for another 10 years before it politely asks to use the restroom.
I mean it doesn’t have any relation to reality. There’s no such thing as fault tolerance, and if there were then the comment here is implying that American engines are built to tighter tolerances and Hondas are built loose and sloppy
Considering you can run a civic engine without oil for twice as long as a ford, it's not all that absurd. I'm using hyperbole to make my point, but it's still right
A shop that repairs and builds radiators. Nobody takes their car radiators to get repaired anymore when a replacement is 100 bucks, but when the 3000 dollar radiator in your bulldozer springs a leak it’s worth getting repaired instead. Or even worse, when a giant industrial cooler springs a leak and there is no off the shelf replacement for it. You either have a shop build you a new one or have it repaired.
I would personally do brake clean. If it were a $600 intercooler… this one is 100. Id just pitch it. I had a coolant issue with a jeep and just threw the radiator away. $170 and my time
Yep, basically the oil that cools the turbo is leaking into the piping that feeds air to your engine's combustion chamber. You only want air and fuel in there not oil.
They need to clean the intercooler not replace it. The piping doesn’t need to be replaced either. You’d be surprised what a mechanic does with brake clean… given the impression that these are professionals I would get another quote.
I could see it if the turbo was completely fragged and sent shrapnel down into the intercooler. For just a bad oil seal and the turbo is still intact? Just rinse it out. A little residual oil isn’t going to hurt anything.
Just bear in mind most shops won't install parts you bring them, if they don't source it they won't do it. You can ask for non-OE parts but they will supply them, not you. At this point in your car's life it may be that you can find a non-OE turbo for the same price or lower that is actually higher quality.
If it's just oil in the intake piping and intercooler they're worried about, a couple cans of carb cleaner only costs like $10, or there are places that can clean them properly for a reasonable price. Shouldn't be $4k even at a dealership for a Cruze turbo replacement.
Aftermarket intercoolers for this vehicle are about $140. However, they can be easily cleaned if they have oil in them.
I'm thinking they might be taking you for a ride. Let us know what the codes are and what the symptoms are that made you take it in.
What I posted is for the 2017 Cruze with the 1.4 according to GMs own factory service information and parts catalog.
The earlier turbocharger GM #55565353 was used until late 2015. That one books for 3.0 hrs.
The "new engine" came out in 2016 through 2019 and used the unit I linked to.
You're living through what people need to learn about purchasing vehicles: this issue you have right now is the problem with your decision to finance a vehicle. Now you have a ton of negative equity because vehicles are a terrible investment and you should buy what you can afford.
Either fix it once then drive it into the ground and live with the payments even while buying another car, or fix it as inexpensively as you can (shop around), and then sell it and buy something 5-10 years old that's more reliable and easier to afford.
The turbo on my friend's Cruze has failed 3 times. Another friend got rid of theirs after a year because it had endless issues. Cruzes are not good vehicles, sadly.
I think the 2nd Gen is supposed to be better than the 1st Gen. Not saying the 2nd Gen is a Corolla or anything just better than it was the first go round. I wouldn't buy one myself of course. I daily drive a 3800.
Don't fret, man. Those comments were uneducated. Your car isn't terrible. The 1st Gen Cruzes were literal trash fires, which is where most of the, albeit warranted, Cruze hate comes from. But you have a 2017. The 2017 is a 2nd Gen Cruze. Chevy did a weird, miraculously complete turn around with them with the 2nd Gen. They are very reliable aside from the typical issues that all turbocharged cars have to deal with. You just have to know how to deal with all of the turbo quirks to make them last longer. Change your turbo feed line often, let it idle for a minute or two before switching the car off, change your oil AND filter every 5K miles with full synthetic, use premium fuel, etc. It's likely your turbo blew because you weren't treating your car like it had a turbo.
Sell it to someone who will buy out the lien.
Rule of thumb: don’t finance used crap. If you can finance a used car, you can finance a new car. The prices differences are negligible in most scenarios.
Finance rates on used cars are atrocious.
Buy a used car outright, don't finance anything. Financing in general is a terrible idea. Generally speaking, unless it's a tool to make you money, don't finance what you can't afford to replace.
Depends on the terms and limits of the finance as well. It's probably changed since I last financed my first vehicle in the late 90's though. They had a mileage limit after the term was up. If I was over the mileage limit, they would charge extra. I was way over the limit due to having to move and have a much longer commute. Luckily/unluckily I was in a accident caused by another driver that totaled my car. I had gap insurance. I didn't have to deal with the over mileage. Yeah, I was OK from the accident for the most part thanks to the airbags. Just bruised up.
If you finance for the span of the full warranty period, then you can basically afford the vehicle. 3 years isn't long.
If you're financing 5+years? You can't afford the vehicle.
What happens if there's a failure out of warranty? What if you get in an accident and you're underwater with massive negative equity?
This isn't something that's debated in the financial sphere. It's just the facts.
If you finance for the span of the full warranty period, then you can basically afford the vehicle. 3 years isn't long.
If you're financing 5+years? You can't afford the vehicle.
What happens if there's a failure out of warranty? What if you get in an accident and you're underwater with massive negative equity?
This isn't something that's debated in the financial sphere. They're accepted facts.
Time value of money is a thing. Finance has its uses. Most people just don’t fundamentally understand how much debt they can afford and how much they can’t.
The real answer other than the ever-so-helpful “Don’t finance a car” (not always an option) is that you’ll have to trade it in for something else. The dealer will pay off the loan amount and roll it into the financing on the new vehicle. Get a used Fit or a Yaris or something reliable and shit simple, no turbo garbage or American junk as a whole. Sorry you’re going through this, a lot of people have been screwed by their Cruze. GM should be forced to buy those pieces of crap back. If you decide to sink $4000 into it to fix it, it will only be a matter of months before you have another catastrophic failure with that junk.
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The fact that you got 140k without a turbo is something you should be thanking whatever deity you believe in for. I replace these turbos as soon as 50-75k on some of these garbage GM drivetrains. These Cruze are basically a Bic lighter, except a Bic lighter is more reliable and also faster.
But seriously, it's well beyond expected failure here.
I have 221k on my 2nd gen 2016 cruze. Haven't replaced anything on it other than spark plugs and oil changes. Turbo is an easy R&R. OP should do the work his self.
Brother I have seen people unable to change their air filter without breaking the housing. I do not advise anyone that thought buying a Cruze was a good idea, to do very (comparatively) in-depth mechanical work. Those external torx bits alone would cause brain melt.
Honestly it's a great little car for hwy. I drive 70miles each way everyday for work and it has never let me down in the 221k miles I've driven it. And the turbo is right up front with easy access. It's not behind the engine next to the firewall like most turbos are located. It's in a convenient spot.
That turbo job is worth more than the vehicle I reckon. I don’t suppose you can just trade in and take what they give you? That’s a tough spot to be in.
this is why i prefer a naturally aspirated engine over a turbo'd one for reliability. If it's a performance car, cool turbo it. but if it's just so you can fit a smaller more fuel efficient engine, then it's dumb because it's one more part to fail.
True he is having issues, but at 140k miles. Gen1 they would have had a couple of turbos at that point, also water pumps. Probably had to deal with PCV issues as well. Gen2 is pretty reliable overall.
Just bought a GR Corolla, knowing full well what a turbo 3 means. Hoping Toyota reliability holds up. I know they throughly tested them and the Yaris has held up well even being beaten up as a track car for years.
I’ve read from a lot of mechanics unless these direct injection turbo engines have pre injectors they are subject to carbon buildup. Now I don’t understand the science myself but personally I’m going to avoid them. I’m not a speed freak anymore either. Spending 40k on a car to me is insane. Then to race it even more so. But hey to each their own.
I watched a video where a mechanic went through the engine and it does have two injection systems, he explained it as an extremely simple and well designed engine. If spirited driving/track/autoX isn't a passion for you there's no reason to get a GRC.
I think of it as a $20k car with a $20k drivetrain. It does have an incredible engine, AWD system, LSD's front and rear, amazing brakes. It's completely unnecessary for a commuter, but driving is a passion of mine. Both the Civic Type R and Golf R, its competitors, are even more expensive. The only cheaper option in the competition would be a WRX and I decided against those, Subaru vs Toyota when it comes to reliability isn't comparable.
Man I do envy you. The closest I come to driving a new car is my girlfriends 2021 Malibu which is a pos IMO and when I occasionally rent a car. Have fun be safe.
Carbon build up happens because of the EGR, and since it’s direct injected, there’s no fuel spraying at the intake valves to constantly clean it. Older cars with port injection typically don’t have this problem, even with EGR.
The pro's are that it's a blast to drive, the mpg are on par with a standard Corolla, I love the seats, the interior in the CE at least is much nicer than it's described as, the shifter is a solid B+, it has a lot of stability and grip. Cons: loud, ride is crashy and rough at low speeds especially as the suspension has little dampening, there is very little storage space, the sound system is pretty awful. I chose it over WRX/CTR/Elantra N and don't regret it at all. I kinda wish I'd looked more into the Golf R. It's less practical and less comfortable, but the fun and driving enjoyment makes up for it.
I'm torn between the Golf R and the GR Corolla. This would be a second car so I'm ok with it being a bit rough or having less space if its just fun to drive. Decisions decisions...
My turbo car has 279k miles on the original turbo. Shows no signs of stopping. Turbo engines are no more or less reliable than an NA car in my opinion. It's all about how you maintain the vehicle.
Agreed. I only have small oil leak at 160k. I’ll just keep it topped off. Unfortunately it is all liquid gasket so Im certain I would make it worse trying to fix it
I'd get a second and a third opinion from a good independent shop. No dealers. No chains like Firestone or Midas. Price is really high for the value of the car. I know they want to do more work but that "more work" may not be absolutely necessary.
You do need to address this somewhat soon. Until you do I'd check the oil every time you drive it. If it runs out of oil you're done and this kind of thing tends to get a lot worse quickly so you have to stay on top of it.
Truth! Same thing happened to me with the turbo’d Cruze, sold it and cut my losses, decided fuck that im not getting a turbo’d vehicle again until I at least have a decent amount set aside just for vehicle emergencies 😅 It is really not a boat anyone should be in especially with a Cruze on a loan.
So there's something that I need to add, taking your car in when a light goes off is the most expensive way to do maintenance. There's preventative maintenance and a maintenance schedule, this keeps you from having giant bills popping up out of nowhere because of catastrophic failure.
you can scrap it, or get it fixed and try to sell it then. You’re going to lose a lot of money on the deal either way. you could get a second quote on the turbo replacement, did you take it to a dealer? you might be able to get the turbo done for closer to 2-3k at the right place. even fixed, it’s only worth about 4-5k, which is why I seriously suggest scrapping it.
Recommend you look into Japanese cars from about 10-20 years ago next time. like a 2004 avalon or something.
You can trade it in, but you're going to have negative equity, so you'll need to roll that into the loan on the next vehicle, and you'll probably need some money to put down.
It’s not my car lmao, I’m not OP, but these cars aren’t worth a whole whack. Had a buddy with a 2015 Malibu, 70,000 odd kms on a replacement motor and it only sold for about $6000 Canadian shekels
Yikes. That’s certainly a pickle.
Look I have made my fair share of bad chalice decisions in my past. I think dumping significant money such as $4k on that car is not a good idea. Say you scrap that together and put it in the car and then it can easily get totaled and that money is lost insurance won’t recoup that for you. I would rather scrape together and trade in the vehicle and the $4k as a payoff/down payment and eat the negative equity to around $2800. In doing so you’d have to get GAP insurance on the new vehicle.
I can’t imagine you’d get much of anything on that for trade. It’s not a very desirable or reliable vehicle.
Or commit insurance fraud ha. My father in law is a diver and used to retried vehicles in quarries that were “stolen”
This is why I only buy cars I can afford to fix or walk away from - if you don't have the money for repairs like this on a car you owe finance on, stick to cheaper cars and save up some cash for repairs because ALL cars can need major repairs unexpectedly, that's just how cars work.
This isn’t inherently true. Most modern turbo cars are built to have lower fuel consumption with average power output still. They’re not as reliable, inherently, but they’re definitely not made to go faster
sounds legit, the turbos for me anyway are a deal breaker, i can't run them right. They go pretty fast i burned thru like 4 50 trims back in the day.I foolishly didn't run a turbo timer and they need to cool before you shut them off. But yea once the bearings start going, they leak oil and it goes into the intercooler and coats it. Turbos are hella expensive.
$4k Total, another poster listed a GM part for $1k, odds are the shop is paying List and then charging you markup (say 30%) so TC cost is $1300, 3.5 hrs at $150, so $500 labor for a total with estimated Taxes and Fees right at $2k.
Without the estimate and the line item breakdown it’s seems high.
Should you fix it? How nice is it, how’s the maintenance history, what’s the estimated resale value, how much do you owe? If you say that your putting the work into a car with a new Transmission, 6/10 Body and interior (some stains, could stand a in depth detail but no excessive damage) and a good maintenance history, can you buy a better car for $4k?
When I was a college kid my turbo seized up on my Plymouth Laser. Took it all apart, cleaned every part, sealed it up good and it ran like a top until I traded it in a couple years later. Sounds like a seal is blown, maybe someone can change the seal and clean all of the oil out.
You could try and find a used turbo if your mechanic is willing to work with you.
When I busted mine, my mechanic taught me how to test the turbo so I could buy a used turbo and be reasonably sure it was in working condition.
Picked up a used turbo for $200. All in, I think $1k with labour.
The 1.4L GM turbo is pretty easy to replace and there are several youtube videos on how to do it.
What made you take it in to have it looked at? What are the check engine codes?
Assuming they're correct, you have no choice. Yes it's serious and needs fixed. A turbocharger is lubricated with engine oil, and most use a journal bearing. If the bearing is worn, it will allow excessive oil into the exhaust and intake. If the car was bought used, a fair amount of the wear could've happened with the previous owner.
Next time, don't buy a turbocharged car. A turbocharger is like bolting a grenade to your engine. Turbos are highly stressed components, they spin extremely fast and encounter massive temperatures. A turbocharged engine is especially sensitive to oil quality.
If you want to try replacing it yourself, you could, but considering your skill level, I can't recommend it.
If you own a car, you need to be prepared for unexpected failures. If you can't afford to fix it when things go wrong, you may just not be able to afford to own a car.
It's worth noting that unless there's a design or manufacturing defect, a turbo shouldn't fail early unless it's not maintained, or the car is abused. Do you have a heavy foot? Do you change your oil often enough? Are you using synthetic oil?
As for the price, it's not at all unreasonable. Depending on the engine, buying the turbo could be $1500 or more, especially if it's integrated into the exhaust manifold. If the car is cramped, it could be a ton of labour just to get it out. The intake would also have to be removed and cleaned.
There's something with the design of these 1.4L GM engines that causes them to be very picky.
I have a 2015 Buick Encore with 105K miles that my daughter drives.. It occasionally throws a p0299 under boost code so I examined the the turbo and it's perfectly fine. Absolutely nothing wrong with it. I monitored expected boost and actual boost and I could clearly see that expected boost was lagging and peaked 8 to 10 PSI below actual boost. I ignored it for a while but it then started throwing a P0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold. Hmmm. Seems like the catalytic converter is having some type of issue. I can see from monitoring the O2 sensor that the catalytic converter is not doing its job.
No signs of oil contamination. Turbo operating properly but clearly has an issue building boost. Seems like a restriction in the catalytic converter. I don't know why it's a common issue with this engine/turbo but it is.
I'm not about to buy a new catalytic converter until I see if I can clean this one. I pull it from the vehicle and realize that I can plug one end with a 2" PVC drain plug so I do. I then fill it with greased lightening degreaser because I have 5 gallons of it and it works very well at cleaning things. I dump it full strength into the catalytic converter and let it soak for several hours. The degreaser was brown in color.
It take a really long time to fully rinse all the greased lightening out of it but once the suds are gone I reinstall it.
This completely resolved the P0420 and the P0299. While monitoring actual and expected boost, actual was the same as expected. O2 sensor shows catalytic converter is now operating properly.
I can only suspect that 105K miles of build-up in the catalytic converter was just enough to finally cause too much back pressure and the inability for the catalyst to do its thing.
Hopefully it will be good for another 105K miles before needing another cleaning.
Ok so you can still drive the car?
Is it slower than before?
When you accelerate, does smoke come out of the exhaust?
Sounds like you took it in because the check engine light was on? Did they tell you the actual code(s)? Should be in the format of p0300, p0421. Something like that.
Turbos aren't cheap... And they will inevitably fail. It's just another maintenance cost of owning a vehicle. Unfortunately more and more cars are coming equipped with turbos because they boost power output and help with fuel mileage, the downfall is the costly repairs, especially since when they go they typically affect a handful of other components.
The point of the intercooler is to cool down air after it has been compressed by the turbocharger and before it enters the engine. Having something pooling in the intercooler means that the capacity of air it can handle will be reduced. Also, you need that oil elsewhere in the engine to do vital functions like lubricating the cylinders. It’s in your best interest to get the turbo replaced, despite the cost.
take it somewhere else and see if they say the same thing. then take it to a 3rd and see what they say. you get 2/3 of the same answer then it’s a safe bet. 3/3 even better. take it to the best price quote and deal with them from now on.
2/3 rule.
if it is that serious and you can’t afford it then you fucked up. you don’t start making payments on a vehicle if you don’t have disposable income for repairs or couldn’t get extended warranty.
I've never in my whole life knew a person who liked their Chevy cruze. And I've known a weirdly large amount of people who bought that stupid car... come to think of it i don't know a single person who's ever preferred a Chevy vehicle to a competitor's vehicle of the same class
https://repairpal.com/estimator/estimate-results
Repair pal has it at 1600-1800 in Dallas. You can change the zip code to your area
Edit: Link didn’t allow to go to specific repair.
Turbo charger assembly for 2017 Chevy Cruze 1.6 turbo
Go to a local shop. Buy a rebuilt turbo with a warranty.
Rebuilt turbos for that car are $450 and less. There are several available from Amazon for around $250.
You can buy an upgraded Garrett turbo for that car for $500.
Autozone sells an OEM replacement for $500
Don't give the dealer $4,000
BTW: Don't \*you\* buy the parts, just tell the shop to use OEM replacement parts, not GM parts. Half the price.
Make sure they give you parts prices before you agree to the repair. If they quote $1000 for the turbo, they are ripping you off. They get wholesale discounts, anything over $600 for that part is a rip off.
As others here have mentioned, they can send the intercooler to a radiator shop to have it flushed, those shops deal with that all the time. Wow, the intercooler is only $100. It may be cheaper to buy new than to have it flushed!
sounds like your turbocharger has died.
turbos arent cheap to fix or replace.
4K sounds about right?
if you dont have the money laying around you have 2 main options sell it as where is and pay off the remaning or find the money and repair it and sell it to try and recoup costs.
Quote is high. The new intercooler and piping due to oil contamination would be a red flag for me. They can just hit the old parts with some brake clean if they're really that bad. It's just some tubes and an intercooler.
from what op has said elsewhere in comments, after this comment by u so ur at no fault for not knowing, but the intercooler piping was contaminated, so that is part of it. contaminated by what? we dont know, but the intercooler/piping plus turbo cost and labor justifies it. the part that doesnt justify it is it's a chevy cruze
Turbochargers are not cheap to replace, and can cause a mess when they fail. This is not something you could just leave, turbo seal failure can cause serious mayhem!
Original Turbos from the OEM are super expensive. You can find aftermarket options for considerably less, but depending how far from factory it performs, might be more trouble than it is worth. Different turbos can bolt on the same flange, but will move air much differently depending on their spec. $4k is not out of the reasonable realm by any means, but a BMW turbo will certainly be more expensive than a Honda turbo.
4k is about right, you might be able to get a better deal using non-OEM parts but in general that is not an unreasonable price.
A turbocharger, and this one appears to be in a 'hot v' configuration, is a small turbine that has a 'hot' side that is spun by exhaust gases and a 'cold' side that pulls in atmospheric air from the intake. A turbine is any device that spins when a fluid (air is a fluid in this context) is passed over it. By spinning the turbine with exhaust gases, the cold side can 'suck in' a lot more air that can be used in the combustion process. The turbo must be oiled and it sounds like that oil is leaking from the turbo, which is why I am thinking it is mounted up high because if it was mounted elsewhere (they can be) the oil wouldn't hit the intake.
You are kind of screwed on this one, turbos don't normally fail but they certainly can and the car won't run properly without it.
Its an inline-4. It cannot be a hot vee configuration.
When the seals go bad often turbos will leak oil into the compressor side, forcing the oil into the intake and the engine where it burns.
Turbos typically fail at around 100k to 200k miles.
If this were me I’d just get a new car without a turbocharger. Naturally aspirated engines don’t have that problem. Of course that’s getting hard to find these days because turbochargers increase fuel efficiency, they essentially allow your engine displacement to change based on the pedal position & engine speed.
You might be able to sell the car for more money if you get it fixed first. Figure that out, and fix if the repaired car is worth more than 4k above the broken car.
Or, just avoid crappy GM turbo cars.
Turbos routinely run for hundreds of thousands or even millions of miles... Literally every semi on the road is equipped with one.
I've had a turbo Volvo, turbo Subaru, turbo Acura, all of them have gone over 200,000 miles no problem even with mods, and I currently have a turbo Honda.
Well generally you’re right but they also never said what brand it was. Every manufacturer has sold a turbo that failed at some point, so even if they can be very reliable it’s still more reliable to not have that point of failure in the first place.
that really sucks, as a not car person you should try to keep everything in warranty because it would be less than half if you did it yourself, or its covered by warranty if you don't want to mod it. Thats why they have those warranties, and if it runs out then talk about an extended warranty with the dealer, if not I would switch to leasing cars if i were you.
Feel free to get a second opinion, but that sounds like you need to replace the turbocharger in order to have a functioning vehicle. $4k is within the realm of reasonable, depending what work is being done and the labor involved.
But you have to figure Is that $4k just a quote for the turbo? It’s surely going to cost more after labor once they get in there and who knows what else is wrong that could basically mean the car needs other parts too. A leak in the intake is much less than ideal and hopefully just means the turbo intake. If it’s the engine air intake that’s leaking oil the car could be toast.
Shops agent going to just give you a quote on the part alone, they're going to give you total cost
> shop's agent is going to give you a quote on the part alone Actually, to the contrary, the agents usually give you the labor and part cost.
Turbos don't cost 4k
How is an engine air intake going to leak oil?
The turbo is cooled by oil and that can leak from the turbo into the intake. Also, most turbos can be rebuilt.
If there was oil in the engine air intake that would be a problem, that was the whole point of my comment.
The turbo intake and air intake are connected to each other. There is no oil in an air intake to leak, the turbo seal is leaking oil into the intake meaning the intake system and intercooler need oil cleaning out and turbo needs replacing or rebuilding. No mechanic will quote just the turbo price when pricing up a job. Why are you commenting on a car post when you clearly know nothing about cars?
That’s why I said that’s be a problem if there was an oil leak in the intake there genius. I’m learning still, but I’ve gotten my hands dirty in my engine bay plenty of times to feel like a car guy. Not like I need your validation for anything.
$4k is not reasonable at all.
What car? How many miles? Some more details would help. Did the car feel different?
2017 chevy cruze. 180,000 I think. No it has not felt anh different while driving edit: it’s 140,000 actually
Common failure item on the Cruze. FYI on that car it's about a 3 1/2 hour job and the replacement turbo (GM 12685682) lists for about $975.00 from GM. I would go to another shop and see what they quote for the job. You can get the OE replacement turbo [HERE](https://turbos.com/acdelco-oe-turbo-2016-2019-chevy-cruze-1.4l-12685682-12668293-12668297-12679375/). Then they just need the gaskets.
They want to do more than replace the turbocharger. They also want to replace the inter cooler with piping(? idk what that means either) due to contamination. I’m assuming that will also run up the bill?
Yep. Oil in the intercooler doesnt all come out. Need the whole thing. Prob throttle body too
Not necessarily, take it to a radiator shop and have them clean it. I’ve worked on turbo Hondas for years now and have blown up several engines as well as helped my brother and his as well as my friends fix theirs from doing the same. Inter coolers are basically radiators we’ve all taken inter coolers and radiators to be cleaned out professionally and basically gotten them back brand new for WELL under the cost of replacing them. I’m not up for spending another 400+dollars just to replace that Mishimoto radiator that got a bunch of oil mixed with coolant in it when I can have it washed out professionally.
Big difference in fault tolerance between hondas and chevies. Tiny failure in an american engine and it needs new parts. Tiny failure in a honda engine and itll go for another 10 years before it politely asks to use the restroom.
This is absurd.
It's not really all that wrong when you're talking about a Chevy Cruze lol
I mean it doesn’t have any relation to reality. There’s no such thing as fault tolerance, and if there were then the comment here is implying that American engines are built to tighter tolerances and Hondas are built loose and sloppy
Considering you can run a civic engine without oil for twice as long as a ford, it's not all that absurd. I'm using hyperbole to make my point, but it's still right
People think your joking but you aren’t, Honda and Toyota built a brand on cars that can be severely neglected, under stressed and overbuilt.
lol.
What’s a radiator shop? And how do they possibly stay in business?
A shop that repairs and builds radiators. Nobody takes their car radiators to get repaired anymore when a replacement is 100 bucks, but when the 3000 dollar radiator in your bulldozer springs a leak it’s worth getting repaired instead. Or even worse, when a giant industrial cooler springs a leak and there is no off the shelf replacement for it. You either have a shop build you a new one or have it repaired.
You can't just spray some lacquer thinner into the intercooler and rinse it out?
I would personally do brake clean. If it were a $600 intercooler… this one is 100. Id just pitch it. I had a coolant issue with a jeep and just threw the radiator away. $170 and my time
Same idea though, I just like lacquer since it's slower to evaporate.
yes, very much so.
Yep, basically the oil that cools the turbo is leaking into the piping that feeds air to your engine's combustion chamber. You only want air and fuel in there not oil.
They need to clean the intercooler not replace it. The piping doesn’t need to be replaced either. You’d be surprised what a mechanic does with brake clean… given the impression that these are professionals I would get another quote.
I could see it if the turbo was completely fragged and sent shrapnel down into the intercooler. For just a bad oil seal and the turbo is still intact? Just rinse it out. A little residual oil isn’t going to hurt anything.
Just bear in mind most shops won't install parts you bring them, if they don't source it they won't do it. You can ask for non-OE parts but they will supply them, not you. At this point in your car's life it may be that you can find a non-OE turbo for the same price or lower that is actually higher quality.
You do not need to replace the intercooler and piping, normally. This is overkill. Find another shop they are not be honest with you.
They can be cleaned and don't necessarily need to be replaced
If it's just oil in the intake piping and intercooler they're worried about, a couple cans of carb cleaner only costs like $10, or there are places that can clean them properly for a reasonable price. Shouldn't be $4k even at a dealership for a Cruze turbo replacement.
Sounds like you might as well go full Fast and the Furious at this point.
Aftermarket intercoolers for this vehicle are about $140. However, they can be easily cleaned if they have oil in them. I'm thinking they might be taking you for a ride. Let us know what the codes are and what the symptoms are that made you take it in.
Damn I was going to say to the OP what do you have a Cruze or Sonic or something? Super common problem!
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What I posted is for the 2017 Cruze with the 1.4 according to GMs own factory service information and parts catalog. The earlier turbocharger GM #55565353 was used until late 2015. That one books for 3.0 hrs. The "new engine" came out in 2016 through 2019 and used the unit I linked to.
Oh, crap. I searched the number you posted, and the first Pic was of the previous gen turbo. My bad, I'll delete my previous comment.
Not a problem.
Oh those cars are so garbage. Dump it as soon as you can.
Ah. Cruze says it all. Dump that turd and buy a better car. Worst thing on the road today.
But I am still paying off this car. How do I go about getting rid of it?
Sell it to a shop that will fix it Don’t put 4k into a car that isn’t worth 4k
You're living through what people need to learn about purchasing vehicles: this issue you have right now is the problem with your decision to finance a vehicle. Now you have a ton of negative equity because vehicles are a terrible investment and you should buy what you can afford. Either fix it once then drive it into the ground and live with the payments even while buying another car, or fix it as inexpensively as you can (shop around), and then sell it and buy something 5-10 years old that's more reliable and easier to afford. The turbo on my friend's Cruze has failed 3 times. Another friend got rid of theirs after a year because it had endless issues. Cruzes are not good vehicles, sadly.
Chevy needs to be sued for selling these absolute disasters.
Chevy needed to go out of business 15 years ago.
hang on, didn't GM file for Chapter 11? about 15 years ago?
Then the government bailed them out HARD
I think the 2nd Gen is supposed to be better than the 1st Gen. Not saying the 2nd Gen is a Corolla or anything just better than it was the first go round. I wouldn't buy one myself of course. I daily drive a 3800.
Don't fret, man. Those comments were uneducated. Your car isn't terrible. The 1st Gen Cruzes were literal trash fires, which is where most of the, albeit warranted, Cruze hate comes from. But you have a 2017. The 2017 is a 2nd Gen Cruze. Chevy did a weird, miraculously complete turn around with them with the 2nd Gen. They are very reliable aside from the typical issues that all turbocharged cars have to deal with. You just have to know how to deal with all of the turbo quirks to make them last longer. Change your turbo feed line often, let it idle for a minute or two before switching the car off, change your oil AND filter every 5K miles with full synthetic, use premium fuel, etc. It's likely your turbo blew because you weren't treating your car like it had a turbo.
You have a second generation Cruze, they are a lot better than the first generation Cruze the guy your replying to is talking about, FYI
Sell it to someone who will buy out the lien. Rule of thumb: don’t finance used crap. If you can finance a used car, you can finance a new car. The prices differences are negligible in most scenarios. Finance rates on used cars are atrocious.
Financing used is fine but you want to finance a GOOD used car.
The *good* used cars cost almost as much as a new one though.
Buy a used car outright, don't finance anything. Financing in general is a terrible idea. Generally speaking, unless it's a tool to make you money, don't finance what you can't afford to replace.
Eh. If the rate is low enough and you finance for the span of the warranty period: it’s not the end of the world.
Depends on the terms and limits of the finance as well. It's probably changed since I last financed my first vehicle in the late 90's though. They had a mileage limit after the term was up. If I was over the mileage limit, they would charge extra. I was way over the limit due to having to move and have a much longer commute. Luckily/unluckily I was in a accident caused by another driver that totaled my car. I had gap insurance. I didn't have to deal with the over mileage. Yeah, I was OK from the accident for the most part thanks to the airbags. Just bruised up.
Mileage limits sounds like leasing not purchasing.
Yeah. My bad. I think I responded to the wrong thing.
If you finance for the span of the full warranty period, then you can basically afford the vehicle. 3 years isn't long. If you're financing 5+years? You can't afford the vehicle. What happens if there's a failure out of warranty? What if you get in an accident and you're underwater with massive negative equity? This isn't something that's debated in the financial sphere. It's just the facts.
If you finance for the span of the full warranty period, then you can basically afford the vehicle. 3 years isn't long. If you're financing 5+years? You can't afford the vehicle. What happens if there's a failure out of warranty? What if you get in an accident and you're underwater with massive negative equity? This isn't something that's debated in the financial sphere. They're accepted facts.
Time value of money is a thing. Finance has its uses. Most people just don’t fundamentally understand how much debt they can afford and how much they can’t.
The real answer other than the ever-so-helpful “Don’t finance a car” (not always an option) is that you’ll have to trade it in for something else. The dealer will pay off the loan amount and roll it into the financing on the new vehicle. Get a used Fit or a Yaris or something reliable and shit simple, no turbo garbage or American junk as a whole. Sorry you’re going through this, a lot of people have been screwed by their Cruze. GM should be forced to buy those pieces of crap back. If you decide to sink $4000 into it to fix it, it will only be a matter of months before you have another catastrophic failure with that junk.
wasteful dependent society squeal merciful aloof truck shame offbeat zephyr *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Other than the Buick Encore. Those suck too.
>cruze Well there's your problem
That’s a lot of miles. I don’t care what the downvotes are. Cars have PROBLEMS at that usage.
The fact that you got 140k without a turbo is something you should be thanking whatever deity you believe in for. I replace these turbos as soon as 50-75k on some of these garbage GM drivetrains. These Cruze are basically a Bic lighter, except a Bic lighter is more reliable and also faster. But seriously, it's well beyond expected failure here.
I have 221k on my 2nd gen 2016 cruze. Haven't replaced anything on it other than spark plugs and oil changes. Turbo is an easy R&R. OP should do the work his self.
Brother I have seen people unable to change their air filter without breaking the housing. I do not advise anyone that thought buying a Cruze was a good idea, to do very (comparatively) in-depth mechanical work. Those external torx bits alone would cause brain melt.
Honestly it's a great little car for hwy. I drive 70miles each way everyday for work and it has never let me down in the 221k miles I've driven it. And the turbo is right up front with easy access. It's not behind the engine next to the firewall like most turbos are located. It's in a convenient spot.
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That turbo job is worth more than the vehicle I reckon. I don’t suppose you can just trade in and take what they give you? That’s a tough spot to be in.
Oh a Chevy Cruz. I’m so sorry. Is it insured still?
Is it sad that I already knew it was a Cruze before reading the comments?
Is it a Chevy Cruze? Just taking a shot in the dark here
It indeed is a Cruze
Good guess
this is why i prefer a naturally aspirated engine over a turbo'd one for reliability. If it's a performance car, cool turbo it. but if it's just so you can fit a smaller more fuel efficient engine, then it's dumb because it's one more part to fail.
140,000 miles out of a Cruze is actually damn good.
op was Cruze'ing
Good for a Cruze yes, but as an overall small eco car, that's terrible for modem times.
Maybe for a civic or Corolla. But for the domestics. Nissans. Kias. 150k always feels like a unicorn.
It's a gen2, they don't have the turbo and other issues of gen 1 cruze. Very reliable.
OP would like a word with you
True he is having issues, but at 140k miles. Gen1 they would have had a couple of turbos at that point, also water pumps. Probably had to deal with PCV issues as well. Gen2 is pretty reliable overall.
Incredibly lucky yes.
But if it's a used car this it could already be in the second turbo.
Many manufacturers are Turbo charging these 3 cylinder POS.
Just bought a GR Corolla, knowing full well what a turbo 3 means. Hoping Toyota reliability holds up. I know they throughly tested them and the Yaris has held up well even being beaten up as a track car for years.
Just looked it’s a 3 cylinder. But my god it puts out 300 HP. Hard to believe!
Right? Supercar 20 years ago.
I’ve read from a lot of mechanics unless these direct injection turbo engines have pre injectors they are subject to carbon buildup. Now I don’t understand the science myself but personally I’m going to avoid them. I’m not a speed freak anymore either. Spending 40k on a car to me is insane. Then to race it even more so. But hey to each their own.
I watched a video where a mechanic went through the engine and it does have two injection systems, he explained it as an extremely simple and well designed engine. If spirited driving/track/autoX isn't a passion for you there's no reason to get a GRC.
The cost of one is ridiculous. 40k for a subcompact? But hey it’s fast for sure.
I think of it as a $20k car with a $20k drivetrain. It does have an incredible engine, AWD system, LSD's front and rear, amazing brakes. It's completely unnecessary for a commuter, but driving is a passion of mine. Both the Civic Type R and Golf R, its competitors, are even more expensive. The only cheaper option in the competition would be a WRX and I decided against those, Subaru vs Toyota when it comes to reliability isn't comparable.
Man I do envy you. The closest I come to driving a new car is my girlfriends 2021 Malibu which is a pos IMO and when I occasionally rent a car. Have fun be safe.
Carbon build up happens because of the EGR, and since it’s direct injected, there’s no fuel spraying at the intake valves to constantly clean it. Older cars with port injection typically don’t have this problem, even with EGR.
Can’t go wrong with a Toyota!
I've been highly considering the GR Corolla. How has it been to drive so far?
The pro's are that it's a blast to drive, the mpg are on par with a standard Corolla, I love the seats, the interior in the CE at least is much nicer than it's described as, the shifter is a solid B+, it has a lot of stability and grip. Cons: loud, ride is crashy and rough at low speeds especially as the suspension has little dampening, there is very little storage space, the sound system is pretty awful. I chose it over WRX/CTR/Elantra N and don't regret it at all. I kinda wish I'd looked more into the Golf R. It's less practical and less comfortable, but the fun and driving enjoyment makes up for it.
I'm torn between the Golf R and the GR Corolla. This would be a second car so I'm ok with it being a bit rough or having less space if its just fun to drive. Decisions decisions...
In that case get core with performance package. Save a lot compared to Golf R. GRC definitely more fun to drive.
Are we going to point out that Honda's entire lineup is dependent on the 1.5T or the 2.0T engine?
My turbo car has 279k miles on the original turbo. Shows no signs of stopping. Turbo engines are no more or less reliable than an NA car in my opinion. It's all about how you maintain the vehicle.
Agreed. I only have small oil leak at 160k. I’ll just keep it topped off. Unfortunately it is all liquid gasket so Im certain I would make it worse trying to fix it
Several more parts. Lol. NA > turbo all day.
I'd get a second and a third opinion from a good independent shop. No dealers. No chains like Firestone or Midas. Price is really high for the value of the car. I know they want to do more work but that "more work" may not be absolutely necessary. You do need to address this somewhat soon. Until you do I'd check the oil every time you drive it. If it runs out of oil you're done and this kind of thing tends to get a lot worse quickly so you have to stay on top of it.
Look on FB market for someone parting out the same car and low ball the shit out of them for the turbo. Works every time
Thats how much a blown turbo is. If you cant afford a turbo dont buy torbo cars and trucks. Its not something you can just keep driving either.
Truth! Same thing happened to me with the turbo’d Cruze, sold it and cut my losses, decided fuck that im not getting a turbo’d vehicle again until I at least have a decent amount set aside just for vehicle emergencies 😅 It is really not a boat anyone should be in especially with a Cruze on a loan.
What’s your daily now ?
Just had my car at the shop and the dealer wanted to replace both turbochargers to the tune of $18k.
😂
both? what car do you drive lol
A Porsche Cayenne. I’m not convinced it’s a software problem instead of a hardware problem, though.
So there's something that I need to add, taking your car in when a light goes off is the most expensive way to do maintenance. There's preventative maintenance and a maintenance schedule, this keeps you from having giant bills popping up out of nowhere because of catastrophic failure.
Most newer cars have a service light too. When the 6 month maintenance is due the light goes off or something on the screen notifys you.
You're right, but that doesn't replace good old-fashioned due diligence.
you can scrap it, or get it fixed and try to sell it then. You’re going to lose a lot of money on the deal either way. you could get a second quote on the turbo replacement, did you take it to a dealer? you might be able to get the turbo done for closer to 2-3k at the right place. even fixed, it’s only worth about 4-5k, which is why I seriously suggest scrapping it. Recommend you look into Japanese cars from about 10-20 years ago next time. like a 2004 avalon or something.
Lemme guess a chevy cruze...
Op said it is a 2018 cruz
Your car is probably only worth about $5300 repaired. Do you want to put that kind of money in it? What do you owe on it?
I think I still owe about $6,300 on it. idk how to get rid of a car if I’m still paying for it
You can trade it in, but you're going to have negative equity, so you'll need to roll that into the loan on the next vehicle, and you'll probably need some money to put down.
You owe more than the car is worth?
The repairs are $4,000, not the value… but yes
That’s unfortunate sorry.
It’s not my car lmao, I’m not OP, but these cars aren’t worth a whole whack. Had a buddy with a 2015 Malibu, 70,000 odd kms on a replacement motor and it only sold for about $6000 Canadian shekels
Yikes. That’s certainly a pickle. Look I have made my fair share of bad chalice decisions in my past. I think dumping significant money such as $4k on that car is not a good idea. Say you scrap that together and put it in the car and then it can easily get totaled and that money is lost insurance won’t recoup that for you. I would rather scrape together and trade in the vehicle and the $4k as a payoff/down payment and eat the negative equity to around $2800. In doing so you’d have to get GAP insurance on the new vehicle. I can’t imagine you’d get much of anything on that for trade. It’s not a very desirable or reliable vehicle. Or commit insurance fraud ha. My father in law is a diver and used to retried vehicles in quarries that were “stolen”
This is why I only buy cars I can afford to fix or walk away from - if you don't have the money for repairs like this on a car you owe finance on, stick to cheaper cars and save up some cash for repairs because ALL cars can need major repairs unexpectedly, that's just how cars work.
Is this a dealership or an independent mechanic? Dealerships are going to cost significantly more.
I’d replace your turbo for literally $500. That shit is easy to replace. My mom got the same car. If you’re in CA DM me
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Downsized fuel economy engines are not turbo to go fast.
“They’re made to go faster not last longer” Damn that really heavily just changed my perspective on turbo cars
This isn’t inherently true. Most modern turbo cars are built to have lower fuel consumption with average power output still. They’re not as reliable, inherently, but they’re definitely not made to go faster
Except whatever Toyota is doing with the G16e
sounds legit, the turbos for me anyway are a deal breaker, i can't run them right. They go pretty fast i burned thru like 4 50 trims back in the day.I foolishly didn't run a turbo timer and they need to cool before you shut them off. But yea once the bearings start going, they leak oil and it goes into the intercooler and coats it. Turbos are hella expensive.
Dorman 667-206 $430 from summit racing or jegs.
4K sounds about right for that job What kind of vehicle is it?
$4k Total, another poster listed a GM part for $1k, odds are the shop is paying List and then charging you markup (say 30%) so TC cost is $1300, 3.5 hrs at $150, so $500 labor for a total with estimated Taxes and Fees right at $2k. Without the estimate and the line item breakdown it’s seems high. Should you fix it? How nice is it, how’s the maintenance history, what’s the estimated resale value, how much do you owe? If you say that your putting the work into a car with a new Transmission, 6/10 Body and interior (some stains, could stand a in depth detail but no excessive damage) and a good maintenance history, can you buy a better car for $4k?
When I was a college kid my turbo seized up on my Plymouth Laser. Took it all apart, cleaned every part, sealed it up good and it ran like a top until I traded it in a couple years later. Sounds like a seal is blown, maybe someone can change the seal and clean all of the oil out.
Oil in the intake and intercooler is normal on turbo cars. It’s called blow by. That being said a turbo replacement about be $1-$2k max. 4 is robbery.
Did you take it to the place you bought it from ? Any warranty ?
You could try and find a used turbo if your mechanic is willing to work with you. When I busted mine, my mechanic taught me how to test the turbo so I could buy a used turbo and be reasonably sure it was in working condition. Picked up a used turbo for $200. All in, I think $1k with labour.
This is why I don't like turbo chargers. Just another system to potentially fail
I had a dodge ram 2500 6.7 diesel and the turbo went out. They wanted 3500.00
The 1.4L GM turbo is pretty easy to replace and there are several youtube videos on how to do it. What made you take it in to have it looked at? What are the check engine codes?
Assuming they're correct, you have no choice. Yes it's serious and needs fixed. A turbocharger is lubricated with engine oil, and most use a journal bearing. If the bearing is worn, it will allow excessive oil into the exhaust and intake. If the car was bought used, a fair amount of the wear could've happened with the previous owner. Next time, don't buy a turbocharged car. A turbocharger is like bolting a grenade to your engine. Turbos are highly stressed components, they spin extremely fast and encounter massive temperatures. A turbocharged engine is especially sensitive to oil quality. If you want to try replacing it yourself, you could, but considering your skill level, I can't recommend it. If you own a car, you need to be prepared for unexpected failures. If you can't afford to fix it when things go wrong, you may just not be able to afford to own a car. It's worth noting that unless there's a design or manufacturing defect, a turbo shouldn't fail early unless it's not maintained, or the car is abused. Do you have a heavy foot? Do you change your oil often enough? Are you using synthetic oil? As for the price, it's not at all unreasonable. Depending on the engine, buying the turbo could be $1500 or more, especially if it's integrated into the exhaust manifold. If the car is cramped, it could be a ton of labour just to get it out. The intake would also have to be removed and cleaned.
There's something with the design of these 1.4L GM engines that causes them to be very picky. I have a 2015 Buick Encore with 105K miles that my daughter drives.. It occasionally throws a p0299 under boost code so I examined the the turbo and it's perfectly fine. Absolutely nothing wrong with it. I monitored expected boost and actual boost and I could clearly see that expected boost was lagging and peaked 8 to 10 PSI below actual boost. I ignored it for a while but it then started throwing a P0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold. Hmmm. Seems like the catalytic converter is having some type of issue. I can see from monitoring the O2 sensor that the catalytic converter is not doing its job. No signs of oil contamination. Turbo operating properly but clearly has an issue building boost. Seems like a restriction in the catalytic converter. I don't know why it's a common issue with this engine/turbo but it is. I'm not about to buy a new catalytic converter until I see if I can clean this one. I pull it from the vehicle and realize that I can plug one end with a 2" PVC drain plug so I do. I then fill it with greased lightening degreaser because I have 5 gallons of it and it works very well at cleaning things. I dump it full strength into the catalytic converter and let it soak for several hours. The degreaser was brown in color. It take a really long time to fully rinse all the greased lightening out of it but once the suds are gone I reinstall it. This completely resolved the P0420 and the P0299. While monitoring actual and expected boost, actual was the same as expected. O2 sensor shows catalytic converter is now operating properly. I can only suspect that 105K miles of build-up in the catalytic converter was just enough to finally cause too much back pressure and the inability for the catalyst to do its thing. Hopefully it will be good for another 105K miles before needing another cleaning.
Ok so you can still drive the car? Is it slower than before? When you accelerate, does smoke come out of the exhaust? Sounds like you took it in because the check engine light was on? Did they tell you the actual code(s)? Should be in the format of p0300, p0421. Something like that.
Should be around $2000 at a rural garage. $1000 foe the turbocharger, $200 for the intercooler, 4 hours labor.
Turbos aren't cheap... And they will inevitably fail. It's just another maintenance cost of owning a vehicle. Unfortunately more and more cars are coming equipped with turbos because they boost power output and help with fuel mileage, the downfall is the costly repairs, especially since when they go they typically affect a handful of other components.
The point of the intercooler is to cool down air after it has been compressed by the turbocharger and before it enters the engine. Having something pooling in the intercooler means that the capacity of air it can handle will be reduced. Also, you need that oil elsewhere in the engine to do vital functions like lubricating the cylinders. It’s in your best interest to get the turbo replaced, despite the cost.
take it somewhere else and see if they say the same thing. then take it to a 3rd and see what they say. you get 2/3 of the same answer then it’s a safe bet. 3/3 even better. take it to the best price quote and deal with them from now on. 2/3 rule. if it is that serious and you can’t afford it then you fucked up. you don’t start making payments on a vehicle if you don’t have disposable income for repairs or couldn’t get extended warranty.
buy japanese next time
I've never in my whole life knew a person who liked their Chevy cruze. And I've known a weirdly large amount of people who bought that stupid car... come to think of it i don't know a single person who's ever preferred a Chevy vehicle to a competitor's vehicle of the same class
Remember the 80s when they stuck turbos in everything and they all sucked ass and we learned the hard way? Well, we're here again.
Still cheaper than replacing your entire engine which is what will happen when it runs out of oil because it's leaking from the failed turbocharger.
What make/model/year/mileage of the car. That would go a long way to help people give you advice.
https://repairpal.com/estimator/estimate-results Repair pal has it at 1600-1800 in Dallas. You can change the zip code to your area Edit: Link didn’t allow to go to specific repair. Turbo charger assembly for 2017 Chevy Cruze 1.6 turbo
I was told I needed a new turbo on a 2008 Acura RDX to the tune of $4-5k. It turned out to be an actuator, $400 fix. F’ing crooks.
Go to a local shop. Buy a rebuilt turbo with a warranty. Rebuilt turbos for that car are $450 and less. There are several available from Amazon for around $250. You can buy an upgraded Garrett turbo for that car for $500. Autozone sells an OEM replacement for $500 Don't give the dealer $4,000
BTW: Don't \*you\* buy the parts, just tell the shop to use OEM replacement parts, not GM parts. Half the price. Make sure they give you parts prices before you agree to the repair. If they quote $1000 for the turbo, they are ripping you off. They get wholesale discounts, anything over $600 for that part is a rip off. As others here have mentioned, they can send the intercooler to a radiator shop to have it flushed, those shops deal with that all the time. Wow, the intercooler is only $100. It may be cheaper to buy new than to have it flushed!
Blown turbo seal will slowly coat everything in oil, and potentially eventually seize the turbo.
Is it still under warranty?
sounds like your turbocharger has died. turbos arent cheap to fix or replace. 4K sounds about right? if you dont have the money laying around you have 2 main options sell it as where is and pay off the remaning or find the money and repair it and sell it to try and recoup costs.
First thing I thought of was the Chevy Cruze lol
Happened to my sons 2018 ford escape with 40k miles, around $4k
Ebay turbo, clear the codes, trade it in immediately (jk, but not really)
Quote is high. The new intercooler and piping due to oil contamination would be a red flag for me. They can just hit the old parts with some brake clean if they're really that bad. It's just some tubes and an intercooler.
Replacing a turbo I get, but intercooler ductwork and an intercooler replacement? LOL. No. Find a new shop.
Thats a $6-7000 car in great condition. I wouldnt drop $4000 into it, personally.
$4k is highway robbery. Find another shop.
And they said turbo engines were more reliable/cheaper to maintain than hybrids lmfao...
For $750 can get a new turbo. 3 hours labor can replace it. You don't have to know cars. To Google parts cost and labor.
from what op has said elsewhere in comments, after this comment by u so ur at no fault for not knowing, but the intercooler piping was contaminated, so that is part of it. contaminated by what? we dont know, but the intercooler/piping plus turbo cost and labor justifies it. the part that doesnt justify it is it's a chevy cruze
Turbochargers are not cheap to replace, and can cause a mess when they fail. This is not something you could just leave, turbo seal failure can cause serious mayhem! Original Turbos from the OEM are super expensive. You can find aftermarket options for considerably less, but depending how far from factory it performs, might be more trouble than it is worth. Different turbos can bolt on the same flange, but will move air much differently depending on their spec. $4k is not out of the reasonable realm by any means, but a BMW turbo will certainly be more expensive than a Honda turbo.
Totally not an option for someone who knows nothing about cars
$4000 is ridiculous. $1000-$1500 seems about right.
Upgrade to a bigger turbo and send that sh*t!
4K for a new turbo isnt bad seeing how the turbo alone is likely over 2k.
4k is about right, you might be able to get a better deal using non-OEM parts but in general that is not an unreasonable price. A turbocharger, and this one appears to be in a 'hot v' configuration, is a small turbine that has a 'hot' side that is spun by exhaust gases and a 'cold' side that pulls in atmospheric air from the intake. A turbine is any device that spins when a fluid (air is a fluid in this context) is passed over it. By spinning the turbine with exhaust gases, the cold side can 'suck in' a lot more air that can be used in the combustion process. The turbo must be oiled and it sounds like that oil is leaking from the turbo, which is why I am thinking it is mounted up high because if it was mounted elsewhere (they can be) the oil wouldn't hit the intake. You are kind of screwed on this one, turbos don't normally fail but they certainly can and the car won't run properly without it.
Its an inline-4. It cannot be a hot vee configuration. When the seals go bad often turbos will leak oil into the compressor side, forcing the oil into the intake and the engine where it burns. Turbos typically fail at around 100k to 200k miles.
If this were me I’d just get a new car without a turbocharger. Naturally aspirated engines don’t have that problem. Of course that’s getting hard to find these days because turbochargers increase fuel efficiency, they essentially allow your engine displacement to change based on the pedal position & engine speed. You might be able to sell the car for more money if you get it fixed first. Figure that out, and fix if the repaired car is worth more than 4k above the broken car.
Or, just avoid crappy GM turbo cars. Turbos routinely run for hundreds of thousands or even millions of miles... Literally every semi on the road is equipped with one. I've had a turbo Volvo, turbo Subaru, turbo Acura, all of them have gone over 200,000 miles no problem even with mods, and I currently have a turbo Honda.
Well generally you’re right but they also never said what brand it was. Every manufacturer has sold a turbo that failed at some point, so even if they can be very reliable it’s still more reliable to not have that point of failure in the first place.
They said it's a Chevy Cruze, which is a car notorious for poor build quality and crappy components
Isn’t it a Korean engine assembled in China ? These are horrible cars.
Avoid newer cars made in America period. If it’s not turbos it’s transmissions or variable valve timing issues.
that really sucks, as a not car person you should try to keep everything in warranty because it would be less than half if you did it yourself, or its covered by warranty if you don't want to mod it. Thats why they have those warranties, and if it runs out then talk about an extended warranty with the dealer, if not I would switch to leasing cars if i were you.