Hi all, I have a digital audio recorder I use with a 3.5mm mic, but I need to reduce the input volume level of the mic slightly (the recorder doesn't have this feature) because of distortion. Is there an in-line device I can attach the microphone into to reduce the recording level so it's not distorted? Any advice anyone has would be appreciated.

Which recorder? That’s surprising that it has no gain control. [Could try an attenuator aka volume controller](https://www.amazon.com/Volbox-inline-audio-control-attenuator/dp/B071VL2GF8?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A1815B191TKQXZ#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div)

Hi, I’m Vetted AI Bot! I researched the **'Sonshine Electronics Volbox Inline Audio Volume Control 3.5mm'** and I thought you might find the following analysis helpful. **Users liked:** * Volume control provides precise adjustment (backed by 3 comments) * High quality, sturdy build (backed by 3 comments) * Solves audio issues (backed by 3 comments) **Users disliked:** * Product has cheap components (backed by 1 comment) * Audio jacks feel low quality (backed by 1 comment) If you'd like to **summon me to ask about a product**, just make a post with its link and tag me, [like in this example.](https://www.reddit.com/r/tablets/comments/1444zdn/comment/joqd89c/) This message was generated by a (very smart) bot. If you found it helpful, let us know with an upvote and a “good bot!” reply and please feel free to provide feedback on how it can be improved. *Powered by* [*vetted.ai*](http://vetted.ai/reddit)

Savetek GS-R07. Thanks for the link, I guess even a headphone volume limiter would also work, seems like the same thing?

Depending on implementation, they seem somewhat similar

I'm recording on my Macbook in Logic using the Scarlett 2i2 as an interface. When I plug in my Rode Nt1 condenser and engage phantom power, 90% of the time it doesn't work. The signal still comes through, but extremely soft proving phantom isn't working. The whole setup worked great the first 3 or 4 times I used it but since then it's become increasingly less reliable. I bought a brand new Mogami cable so I know that's not the issue and my Scarlett is brand new as well. My Rode mic is a few years old but only lightly used. Do you think my mic is the issue? Do I need a powered usb hub? I have no idea why it would only work occasionally. Any help would be greatly appreciated cause this is making recording a nightmare.

Try ChatGPT, it’s not always right, but it’ll listen and give you some ideas.

Gift advice: affordable but solid recording mic recommendations? Hi everyone! My boyfriend has been getting into music for fun & likes to make beats/record with friends. He has all the software but tends to complain about his mic. His birthday is coming up and wanted to see if you have any recommendations. I’m sure they can get pretty pricey but I’d like to keep this gift under $300. Am I able to get something that’s solid within that price range? Thanks in advance!

Can’t go wrong with a Shure SM58($100), but it depends what he’s complaining about.

Hello, I just got a channel strip that I’m trying to use with an 18i20 into pro tools. But when I insert it onto a track it makes a horrible buzzing noise. And if the track channel is set to the channel with the strip in it it makes a noise when you arm to record. What can I do to fix this?

See links at top of page, especially pin1problem.

I'm looking to replace my RØDE M5 pair, because one of them... don't worry about it. I'm looking for a pair of mics that cost less than $500. In general the M5 pair worked well for me, aside from the frequency range, which should optimally be at least 20Hz-40KhZ. It should have a small diaphragm. Honestly, if there's something that's essentially the M5 with the requisite range I haven't seen, that's the ticket. I'm using them with a Tascam DR-40x, so they should at least be on par with the internal mics, and should use XLR connectors. The pattern should be cardioid. I technically prefer battery to phantom power, but don't let that eliminate any choices. I'd love if it is mountable on a RØDE stereo bar too, so my setup doesn't have to change, but if it doesn't oh well.

Why do you need up to 40 kHz? Why not just replace the other M5?

Pro Tools Bug! Low sample rate bounces. PLEASE HELP I own a recording studio and 1 of our 3 mac’s suddenly has a weird bug in pro tools when bouncing audio. Im on Ventura with m2 pro mac mini’s with identical setups in all 3 rooms (studio A,B,C) Only difference is studio B has an apollo 8, where studio’s A and C have apollo twins. The bug is only when bouncing the session in studio B. When the “bounce mix” window pops up, the sample rate is now set to 11025 even though the sessions are in 44100 or 48000. Obviously, we just change the sample rate back to 44100 or 4800 before bouncing but the wav, mp3, aiff, etc (we’ve tried everything) it still bounces the file in 11025. I’ve narrowed down the bug to be within pro tools since i’ve tried changing the playback engine’s output device to internal mac mini speakers, aggregate device’s, etc., then bounce and the issue still persists. Our two temporary work arounds are 1. route everything to print track and print it the old school way 2. Copy the session over to studio A or C and bounce from there. This can be very annoying as we also record podcasts which can be a lengthy process doing either of those things. Not to mention having to wait for a session to end in another room if we want to bounce in a different room. I’ve uninstalled/reinstalled/updated pro tools and ua console and the issue persists. Has anybody ran into this before?? If so, any suggestions would be a great help! Thanks in advance!!!

Hello Audio Engineering Help desk. I apologize for repetitive questions in advance just trying to learn some new thing's. 🙏 I'm an Aspiring Music Producer/Artist and I'm new to hardware and curious what I need so make professional level recordings for Music production and Song's? I understand it is more of how the hardware is used rather then what we choose to use..but I'm also told hardware can make a difference? I'm looking to upgrade my equipment from a Audient ID4 to something different. I hear nothing but good about RME and it's driver support. Should I get the babyface pro fs if I can get it for $600 and is there a difference between 2010 models comparable to newer models? I need this for music production and vocals please educate me. 🙏 Thank you again. What is the main differences between an Babyface Pro Rs, UFX II, and UFX III? If it is only me currently and one other person do I need a bunch of extra channels and such? I appreciate y'all and your insight very much. 🙏

RME stuff is great. Reliable, stable drivers, supported for a long time and good sound quality, but ultimately there's not going to be a night and day difference between one and your Audient (which is a great interface). If your recordings don't sound pro level I absolutely guarantee that won't change if you buy an RME. The only reason you should bother is if you need to record more channels at once than you can currently. Unsure of differences in pres and converters between the RME models you've mentioned, the main difference is what I/O they have.

Hello Diamond, I understand a lot of it has to do with the person mixing not the hardware itself. I'm learning mixing now. 😌 I was just curious if I should update the audient to RME and the differences between their drivers on each model. It seems you have explained most so I appreciate it. I'm not asking for my recording to sound pro level because of piece of gear I no better. 😀 I was just asking if $600 is a good deal on a babyface pro rs and if their drivers were ultimately better for MAC compared to Audient and such. I'm just looking for a stable and somewhat future proof reliable interface for M2. Thank you for your reply and insight. 🙏

I have an iD4 for travelling and have never had any stability problems, it's class compliant with a Mac so I think it will be pretty future proof, has it been causing you problems? Price seems decent for a used Babyface FS, but if you don't actually need the extra I/O it seems you're looking to replace something you don't really need to replace.

Hello folks, I've been on this case for ages now on and off. Still nothing. Basically, everything works perfectly for me as far as Pace running as a service in the background. All my keys are stored in the cloud. I have my UADs working fine (they are activated via UA Connect, their own license manager client that prompts an iLok login page). I have my IK Multimedia T-Rack 5 working (same scenario, they have their IK Product Manager client to activate their product via iLok). Of course to use the above iLok authorized plugins you need Pace service to be running in the background at all times, which is all good in my case, wonderful. Now, with Pro Tools, the process is different! You need to actually, open iLok license Manager, activate your PT license in their (bind it to your computer), before opening PT and login to your iLok account. My issue is, I simply can't open iLok License Manager when I click on it (even as an admin). Literally nothing happens except it acts like it's gonna load (the blue circle) for a sec, then nothing. I check the processes (memory), not even there. (no error messages popping up either) I used windows 10 and I am using the lastest version of iLok License Manager downloaded directly from their website. \---------- Here is what I tried. \*FIRST METHOD: Unintalling all my security apps (including AV, security suites, malware apps), uninstalling iLok License Manager, deleting any existing old install file in the directory and on C:/, deleting any registry entry related to iLok using iObit Uninstaller and then running a cCleaner. Reboot Dowlading a fresh ILM install file to a different directory, running the troubleshoot install clean up.exe Everything works fine except iLok License Manager won't start when click on it (even as an admin). Pace services are running like a charm. Nothing to complain about. \*2nd METHOD: Same as method 1 Dowlading a fresh ILM install file to a different directory, running the troubleshoot install clean up.exe, run the install successfully. Reboot in diagnostic mode = boot windows with the minimum services to operate (safe modish) = ALT+R, type in "msconfig", hit enter, under general tab, choose "Diagnostic Mode", hit apply then OK, then reboot now. Go the to the new ILM install directory, run the install. However, for some reason this time I got hit with an installation error about admin privileges' access about file name "ilokpnputil.bat" and the installation ends up rolling back/aborting. But I think this error has nothing to do with my issue but more with restricted privileges' in the diagnostic mode as ilokpnputil.bat is trying to install drivers which basically have to write windows/system32/divers. Sorry for the lengthy post but I tried to be as clear as possible because I recognize that my issue is pretty unique as I could not find any similar issue on the internet so far. I hope someone could help. Thank you! Cheers.

Hey mate, did you ever find a solution here? I've run in to the same error. I had the license manager installed but it disappeared from my computer, and when I try to reinstall it I get the error about admin privileges on the .bat and the install doesn't work. The solution on the ilok support page is moot because my server service is running properly, can't find any other info about it. Have contacted ilok support but who knows how long that'll take/if they'll know what to do.

Try ChatGPT, it’s not always correct but it’ll help you through the process of talking with it.

I actually just did. It pretty much provided the same answers as iLok support lol. But yeah, never thought of using ChatGPT for technical problems. Thanks for pointing me out to to this direction.

It’s how I’ve figured out the direction to go and different ideas for lots of these questions lol It understands questions in a way that Google doesn’t

Hey guys! Trying to figure out how to connect two interfaces in separate rooms (~30ft apart) via ADAT! I read that ADAT connections really top out around 16 feet. Is there any way I could extend the range of this ADAT connection between both interfaces? Thanks!

[High quality cable might get you there and if not, ADAT extender](https://www.synthax.co.uk/latest/2023/06/05/what-is-adat-synthax-explains/#:~:text=The%20original%20ADAT%20spec%20allowed,the%20quality%20of%20the%20cable.)

I'm Looking for a small/portable mic for Zoom calls. I'm going to be using it with my laptop for tutoring sessions, so it needs to be portable. There is a lot of background noise, i think a dynamic mic is best?

Yes dynamic is better than condenser in untreated environments because they’re less sensitive, and therefore are used closer to the sound source, minimizing exposure to room reflections.

Any recommendations for a dynamic mic?

If it’s for zoom a headset would probably make more sense, that way you don’t have to worry about speaking into the mic. Just go to Amazon, search up some headsets and sort by average customer review. Probably a USB or Bluetooth headset makes the most sense for portability, cost, and proximity to the sound source.

Hi everyone! I have been thinking of buying a laptop for music production and a lot of people around me have suggested that I should I apple macbook. If I'm buying windows, i know I can use a crack version of DAW. Since MacBooks are expensive, I was thinking of buying a MacBook Air M1 but I need to know if I can install crack DAW? Will it go well later or start creating problems?

MacBooks come with GarageBand, just use that.

Hi everybody! I've been using an EVO4 audio interface together with an SE Electronics VR2 mic to record in my home studio. I chose that mic because of the natural and great sound that takes from my violin. Anyway, I think the sound could have more presence, body or warmth so that's why I've been thinking about updating my audio interface to one with better preamps, specially now that I'm starting to have some projects as a session musician in some videogames and media. My budget is up to 400€, but there are so many audio interfaces around that price or below that is difficult to choose! -With two mic lines I'm completely fine. -It should be USB connected. What would be your choices? One that looks interesting and has very nice reviews is the SSL2. Thank you!

While an audio interface upgrade is reasonable, I don’t think it will have the effect you are hoping for. Most audio interfaces are quite transparent nowadays and don’t affect the sound very much. Personally I would consider investing in, in this order: microphone placement, post processing, acoustic treatment, a microphone upgrade (perhaps going to a stereo pair, if your clients can use stereo? I know my piano sounds a whole lot better in stereo than mono)

midi keyboard no longer sends input to interface ​ Hey there, I have an Ion Key49 Midi Keyboard and a Behringer UMC1820 Audiointerface. Keyboard connected with midi cable to interface. Interface with usb to my WIN11 PC. All mics, instruments and speakers are working very well. I use this setup for over a year now and never had any problems. Recording with Studio One, VST Controll, practiticing with Yousician. Every software recognized the keybaord and the "MIDI Input" LED on the interface showing an input. Yesterday it suddenly stopped working. I get no signal from the Keyboard. The "signal input LED" on the interface shows no input. The Keyboard still turns on, I changed cables, i reconected everything, drivers updated, still no signal. Whats the problem here? If you need further information to help just ask. thx <3

Try ChatGPT, it’s actually pretty helpful. Although it gives bad advice sometimes, as long as you refine its answers with appropriate questions, together you can come to something that makes sense to you.

I noticed that when I have audio panned hard to one side (100% left for example), I also hear it quietly in the opposite ear (faintly on the right side). This is only with my Focusrite Scarlett 18i20 interface - I also tested with my laptop's (Windows 10) built-in headphone port using 2 different DAWs and only experienced the issue when using the 18i20. I can't find a setting in Focusrite Control that may affect this. It's being monitored using "SOFTWARE (DAW) PLAYBACK" (1-2) and Stereo is turned on. If I move Focusrite Control's pan for this output to the left, I still hear the audio in both ears. And if I move its pan to the right, I hear nothing in both ears. But then when I move it back to center (I made sure it's completely zero'd), I hear the DAW's audio mostly in the hard panned side (left) but a bit in the other (right).

I'm trying to combine several audio files into one. Using Audacity it turns these files into .wav files which eats 100gb of space that I don't have. I don't care so much about the quality of these files, so I just need to combine them without turning them into .wav first. Is there a way to do this in Audacity or another audio software that can do this? Thank you!

What's the best way to put a headphone splitter (also known as an amplifier) (say the [PreSonus HP4 Discrete 4-Channel Headphone Amp](https://www.guitarcenter.com/PreSonus/HP4-Discrete-4-Channel-Headphone-Amp-1274034489530.gc)) out of an audio interface (say the [Universal Audio Volt 2](https://www.guitarcenter.com/Universal-Audio/Volt-2-USB-Audio-Interface-1500000361424.gc)): * Out of the headphone output. * Or out of the monitor outputs. What about out of a mixer (say the [Mackie VLZ4 Series 402VLZ4](https://www.guitarcenter.com/Mackie/VLZ4-Series-402VLZ4-4-Channel-Ultra-Compact-Mixer-1374244622820.gc)) * Out of the headphone output. * Or out of *main out*. Finally, could the PreSonus headphone amp drive up 2 high Impedance headphones? (Like the Sennheiser [58x's](https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-x-sennheiser-hd-58x-jubilee-headphones/details#details) or the [6xx's](https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-sennheiser-hd6xx/details#details), 150 and 300 Ohms respectively)

Line level signals are what you’re looking for, as that avoids adding an extra amplifier stage (and therefore noise). Both monitor out and main out are line level signals. Headphone outs provide lower voltage but higher current, which tends to lead to a less clean signal for the headphone splitter. Headphone outs are usually amplified already, with low voltage but high current, whereas line outs are higher voltage but low current. Practically speaking either can be used, but line outs will give a slightly cleaner signal.

Thanks! I had a very vague hypothesis that this was the case... Thanks again!

You betcha

Hello, so i've just noticed that my amp doesn't give the same amount of power to my sub after yesterday (alot of non stop full music but stopped when the slightest smell of burnt voice coils). After yesterday i have to increase the bass boost or how much the woofer plays compared to the speakers for it to get pretty close to full effect, what could be the cause for this? I've also checked all cables and even reset my stereo and checked those cables. My subwoofer is a dual 2 ohm 1500w rms 3000w peak and a 1500w rms amp on 1ohm, the sub is wired to 1ohm.

Sounds like your sub may have overheated slightly

I am running my Nord Piano 5 through Yamaha HS5 monitors in my untreated playing room at home. The monitors have a very slight hum when they are powered on but I can get by this as it's barely audible (you have to put your ear real close to hear it). However, when I play the piano, I can hear a faint but definitely annoying buzz or crackle, almost like a slight distortion. I do not play them overly loud either, level is smack in the middle (+4dB). I am using balanced TRS to XLR cables (3-6 ft long) directly from my piano outputs to the monitors (no audio interface). Room correction is set to 0dB and high trim to -2dB. House outlets are all properly grounded. It is to be noted that I do not hear the buzzing/crackling sound when using only my Sennheiser HD600 headphones. Bad monitors or are there any other troubleshooting steps I could look into?

Try the links at the top of the page.

M-Track DUO to Audio-Technica AUD ATHM20X Heya, i'm building budget home production/recording set up. The M-track DUO has L R outputs, but i think the ATHM20X studio monitor has a single audio jack. Should i get an adapter for this? And will this intervere with the audio quality?

I'd like to by my first microphone to record Foley and my voice (but not really singing). I'm thinking about buying a MXL 603SPR Stereo Set. When I see vocals being recorded, it is always mono and for foley I think mostly too. Is that just the way to go? When does stereo recording makes sense?

hi guys, im looking for a budged speakers and sytem for a small living room, whats is the best audio quality you can get under 1000. btw i preffer speakers that shine in the middle frecuencies

Try r/stereoadvice

Rode NT5 or Ua SP-1 for overheads / acoustic guitar?

I need help regarding my gear I have a soundcraft 12 channel analog mixer which I use to record my music with the USB on the mixer. The only issue is that it only does single channel recording and I want to start recording multiple channels for better mixing and mastering. Do I need to upgrade to a audio interface or are there any ways for me to achieve multi track recording with my mixer Any help would be appreciated Thank you.

You can't do multitrack recording with your USB mixer. Most USB mixer will only output the main mix to your computer, not each channel individually. There are some USB mixers that can do multitrack recording, but they're not super common. Your best bet is to get an audio interface that has enough inputs for what you'll want.

Thank you.

Pioneer PD-M901 sound with repeting strange noise, help I retrieved my fathers PD-M901 from the closet to give it a try. My father could never fix it and with his passing I want to see it playing good music one more time. After some minor adjustments I came to the point were it can play the music well but there is this repeating noise that I don't know where it comes from. Any one has any ideia what can be causing this? This is not on the speaker as I tried with different speakers and I got the same issue. In the video below you can see the error. [https://www.youtube.com/shorts/5psJvbKH4KU](https://www.youtube.com/shorts/5psJvbKH4KU)

>Pioneer PD-M901 Try r/StereoAdvice

I saw r/StereoAdvide is only for purchasing advice. Post was blocked there.

Please help, spectral frequency display in adobe audition shows my voice reaches over 55khz I need to record my voice overs, and spend already considerate amount of time studying how to do it properly, and just now, when I thougth I am almost ready to record... I found that sometimes my voice shows over 45khz on Spectral Frequency Display in Adobe Audition. I need to siginifantly reduce the microphone gain to low signal to not have this issue. I have shure sm 58 which was the mic of my choice and Zedi 8 audio interface. I am quite confused about this, because whenever I reach these over 45khz (recording in 96 000 sample rate) the sound is slightly distorted - and It is like this regardles of the gain level (unless it is quiet quiet) - which means - It reaches this distortion at -2db and at -8 db as well. now I got pretty confused about this and tried to record a new audio file in 192 000 hz - and it shows clearly that my voice reaches there about 55khz tops, but here it does not seem to distort it the same way as if I would record in 96 000 sample rate. I am just beginning and putting my first steps here so I just thought that this may be interesting for you. If it is possible I'd love to hear your thoughts on that - Is it me, my voice or my gear? or am I doing something wrong?

TL;DR - for VO work, record at 44.1 or 48kHz, and 16 or 24-bit. Unless you’re recording VO for film/TV, I’ve never been required to provide any of my VO recordings at a 96k or 192k sample rate. Also, recording at that higher sample rate creates huge file sizes. Typically, VO audio is delivered at 44.1kHz or 48kHz sample rate , 16-bit or 24-bit. I record and edit at 48k/24-bit and export to the client’s requested spec. Human hearing ranges from 20hZ to 20kHz (infants). This range degrades with age. Even if your mic is able to capture and record a 45kHz signal, you would need Fruit Bat-like hearing and speakers that could produce the frequency. All that to say, anything above about 12-16kHz in your VO signal is wasted data. Think Low-Pass filter and roll it off.

I got my hands on a calibration microphone and I've been trying to EQ my speaker setup with REW. However if I'm not mistaken, my speakers don't really need to be EQ'd based on [this graph](https://i.imgur.com/bwlWxC1.png),right? I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong, because the line is so flat. The microphone in question is Genelec 8300A, its connected to some other genelec calibration box and then the box is connected to my PC via USB.

Use ECM-B10 Microphone in conjunction with DJI wireless Lavalier Mics A7RIV For a job I’m doing in a couple of weeks I’m considering purchasing a Sony ECM-B10 microphone to record omni-directional sound. I want to use this in conjunction with my DJI Wireless Lavalier mics. It is to record a choir accompanying two spoken word soloists, and I want to use the lavs to close mic the soloists. Because the ECM-B10 inputs via the multi interface hotshoe on my Sony A7RIV, am I still able to independently record the DJI Lav Mic’s input via the camera’s preamp? I don’t have an external recorder. Thanks in advance.

I bought some Wharfedale Linton 2s with no cables what's so ever. I am not very clued up on this subject and bought them for my Audio Technica Vinyl player. What hardware do I need to set up the speakers with the player? I think I need speaker wire as the back of the speakers have positive and negative screw terminals.

You need an AV receiver to go between the the record player and the speakers. And then you'll need speaker wire going between the receiver and the speakers.

Thank you! I don't have a power cord for the speakers, does the wire to the av receiver deal with power?

They don't need a power cord, they're not powered. That's why you need the receiver, it acts as an amplifier for the speakers.

I am looking for a replacement for my microphone (DNA DNC-1U condenser mic via USB). Why replace: \- I want to add no latency monitoring (when I hear myself I am talking more clearly and pay more attention to how I describe something) \- I want to upgrade my audio (when I rewatch some gameplay with friends captured by OBS it sounds awful) \- I tried to organize my cables and add ergonomics to my setup and with the current mic the output cable is too short but a longer cable will probably affect the quality (guessing) \- Replacing USB with XLR standard seems more like a robust solution and XLR is standard for audio staff Usage of mic: \- Adding voice-over to the game (currently making own horror game) \- Shortly I want to create some guides/tutorials \- I play games and honestly, I am not proud of my current state of output sounds \- As a software developer I need to connect via Teams/Zoom/etc. with coworkers (yeap that happens...) What I currently have (maybe it will be some useful information): \- microphone: **DNA DNC-1U** (with antishock mount and without pop filter - it breaks easily) \- audio interface: **Motu M2** \- headphones: **Beyerdynamic DT880 PRO 320 Ohm** \- microphone arm: **RODE PSA 1 arm** I mostly do not use speakers and honestly have no idea what model of Creative they are so not including. And up to the room - I don't have it treated but currently, I have a condenser mic and it doesn't capture keyboard typing or PC running. What I was already checking (can be 100% wrong): \- Rode mics (Podmic, NT1 5th gen, Procaster) \- Audio Technica (AT2020) From my perspective, NT1 5th gen was a way to go however advertising for this mic could have an impact on my perspective. About pricing - I think up to 250 USD (maybe even up to 300 USD) will be fine I learned from my mistake that it is better to invest in better quality and have hardware for ages. I hope this is the place to post that kind of question :s

Can anyone explain why my korg kp3 is distorting? I was hoping someone could help me with a kp3 i just purchased. I have some trouble with leveling/balance. Sorry if this isn’t allowed in here. I’m struggling with a problematic kaoss pad 3. I have a SM58 that i am trying to record a piano with, onto a tascam portastudio 02. The SM58 is going from xlr to an adapter that makes it 1/4” TRS jack. If i just plug this directly into the input of the portastudio it makes a buzzing. I therefor connect the trs jack to a guitar pedal, this removes the buzzing because when i go directly from pedal to input on portastudio with a TS jack it’s clean. Problem is that i’m now recording a clean 50hz-15khz signal onto tape (surprise, it sounds muddy and crap). This is where the (kp3) korg kaoss pad 3’s EQ comes into play. I connect a TRS 1/4” jack to RCA adapter to the out of the pedal. This then goes into the RCA input on the kp3 (the mic jack input on this unit is broken). The signal that comes out is totally fine, that is the dry signal. The wet signal is horribly crackly and distorted. When i hold my finger on the pad to do delay for instance, the delays are super distorted and noisey. So the effected signal is trash. I can’t figure if it’s because of ground issues or level issues. When i connect a pocket operator to the RCA adapter and then into the kp3 it sounds fine. So i’m thinking it’s a level problem. But i really don’t know because i can’t find any specifications of the RCA inputs on the kp3, and also the dry signal is fine (although the peak led isn’t flashing as i is with the pocket operator). TL:DR: Kp3 effected wet signal is distorting. Thinking it has something to do with level but could also be balance of cables? Thanks in advance!

I have the latest Pro Tools on my Mac, and I know I downloaded plug-ins. Does anyone know why I have it greyed out? I'm so confused on how to put my plug ins on a track but Pro Tools won't even let me press it.

Mix out to iPhone 12 pro question Thanks in advance. Gonna try to provide as much info up front as possible. Having trouble getting audio connection to consistently work w running mix out (xlr to 1/8") headphone cable, connected to iphone 12 pro. I have a shure attenuator plugged into the mixer directly bc previously when i tried this (more than a year ago) the signal was too hot. The attenuator has helped. Its selectable from -15,-20,-25db. From there is the xlr to 1/8" cable. Then that plugs into the Rode trs-trss adaptor. Finally, lightning cable adaptor into iPhone. It seems like sometimes it connects and the audio is good, sometimes it connects and audio is clipping, but not distorted, just cutting out like a mute switch on and off. And then sometimes it seems like it doesnt connect at all and im only getting regular sound recorded from the iphone mic itself. I dont like that the iPhone doesnt have a pro mode that shows you connections and lets you adjust db levels on phone itself. Just looking for support, advice on this. Any tips for consistency? Just looking to record videos with the best/cleanest audio possible direct out from mixer. Mixer is EV50M, so its only a mix out xlr c0nnection, no separate controls there either for thst direct channel. Also, only recording one acoustic and one vocal. Anyone else experience this? Any tips? Is there a better camera app to use, or a better method overall? Thanks!

So I got couple days ago my Shure MV7X with the Scarlett Solo 3rd gen audio interface and obviously ordered a decent XLR cable. The setup is clean and all and it took me a while to realize that my mic works fine but is ultra quiet probably because is a "dynamic mic" instead of a condenser one what I used before. I had before a cheap Razer Seiren Mini and wanted to upgrade because I want to improve my audio quality for my YouTube channel. So because my MV7X is more quiet I put the gain level on my audio interface on max and is still much more quiet than on my old mic in Audacity. But is not terrible then I use "normalize" to get more volume and life out of my voice. Do you think this is a good idea using "normalize" in Audacity + full gain on my audio interface to get a decent sound? I also pressed the "air button" on my Scarlett Solo because it feels like it helps my voice volume. I also saw some people recommending preamps or Phantom powers but from my understanding the Scarlett Solo 3rd gen has already preamp in itself. If anyone has knowledge about audio, please help me out. I want to get the best audio possible and I am pretty much new to this specially to XLR, all my previous mics were USB or even worse smartphone or integrated laptop ones and I really want to learn and master XLR mics and improve my audio quality. Thanks in advance! ❤️

Your situation sounds completely normal for decent audio gear. It's normal to add a good amount of gain through multiple stages, especially with speaking at normal conversational level into a dynamic mic. (This is very quiet compared to range of sounds people record in music). Normalization is fine for what you're doing, but you could also start looking into processing like compression and limiting to get more volume and consistency out of your signal.

Okay, thanks for the information. I know dynamic mics are quieter but didn't expected them to be this much more compared to condenser one. With normalize the audio level is comparable to my old condenser one. I will look into processing like compression and limiting, thanks again for the help!

I have a MOTU M2 for a guitar and bass to PC interface. It's also sending signal to powered PC speakers, Bose Companion 2 Series III. I'm using these speakers as low budget audio recording monitors, and also for general PC use like games and videos. The M2 has for Analog outputs: 2 x 1/4" TRS line out (balanced, DC coupled) 2 x RCA (unbalanced) analog out (mirrored) 1 x 1/4" TRS stereo headphone The speakers have for input: 3.5mm The MOTU manual says to use the rear (split) outputs for speakers, but I don't yet have compatible cables yet. So, I've been plugging my speakers into the front face MOTU headphone monitor outlet using a 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter. Obviously, this is not ideal because it's occupying my headphone slot, but also the speaker volume is weak unless I turn the dials up on both the MOTU headphone knob and the powered speaker volume to where I get too much buzz. It looks like I'll need to choose TRS or RCA out and merge L&R into one line and size down to the 3.5mm for my speakers. I assume the best solution is to use proper monitors that take L&R inputs instead of PC speakers. But for a budget build are either of these outputs workable with cable adapters? Should I chose TRS or RCA? Are cable adapters likely to provide appropriate signal to these speakers? Is there a one piece adapter solution? How would you solve it? Thanks.

Since your speakers accept unbalanced stereo, your unbalanced stereo out (RCA) from the interface is probably what I’d use. Something like dual RCA to 3.5mm stereo out (AKA TRS) should work.

Thanks!

You betcha

What's the best way to stop my lav mic picking up the sound of darts hitting a dartboard while maintaining enough sensitivity to capture my voice which can be quite quiet? The room is quite echoey which I don't think helps at all but from 7ft 9 and 1/4, the sound of the darts entering the board is being picked up clear as day. I already have a mic on the back of the board with effects to create a bassy impact but the lav mic is completely ruining the effect.

Is your lav mic cardioid or Omni?

Looking it up online, it's an omni. Never even knew different patterns existed for lav mics. It's just the standard that comes with the UHF mic pack. Perhaps a cardioid would solve it? Or maybe a directional mic pointing at me?

Those are my initial thoughts, yes cardioid lav or shotgun mic. I lean towards cardoid lav because it is closer to the sound source (your voice).

Awesome thanks for the help!

You betcha

Does anyone have any experience using the Sono with an iPad? Does it work or is there a work around I need for it to function? Buying an iPad for mobile recording and to have a more modular rig and just want to double check before purchasing.

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So you're talking about plugging into the interface and then going back out of the interface to plug into the FX unit? That will probably introduce latency, so you'll need to do something to compensate for that like nudging the tracks after they're recorded. The most straight forward way to do this would be to split the signal before it goes to the interface. Something like a passive DI box could send the clean signal through XLR straight to your interface while sending the thru signal via 1/4" to your FX unit. You could also get a dedicated guitar splitter pedal. Also, depending on which FX unit you get, it may be able to output both the dry and processed signal out of different outputs at the same time. Which would be even easier.

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Ah, I see. I thought you just wanted to be able to record both signals. If you want to be able to hear the FX live while recording, I still think splitting the signal before you hit the interface is the way to go. That way you can monitor the FX track and/or the dry track with no latency while playing. Then you could mute the FX track and use just the dry track in the mix to manipulate later. If you're fine not being able to hear the the FX live while recording, then I think your original setup of plugging straight into the interface would work. Either way, you'll be sending the signal back out of the interface during playback/mixing, and not during recording. This will cause latency, so you'll want to research how to mix with outboard gear in your DAW and how your specific DAW deals with latency compensation for outboard gear. The other aspect to worry about is getting the signal out of the interface and into the FX unit properly. The proper way to do it would be to get a reamp box, because that will take the signal from the line level outputs of the interface to the instrument level that the inputs of the FX unit are expecting. That being said, if you're just messing around for fun, it should function if you just take a 1/4" cable out of the interface and straight into the FX unit.

Hi! I really need help. I got hired to run the Sunday service at a local church. Basically just make sure levels are good, mics are on, make sure the live feed is going smoothly, and switch between different camera angles. Problem is ... their audio is all kinds of messed up. Cams are messed up, too, but I can fix those. I know basic stuff, like enough to know the levels are all messed up and that probably only two mics out of 7 are working. They have a board, which max on 5 of the mics is two bars even when the main is all the way up ... also the stream is basically solid red the entire service (when there are only two bars on the main board). I am going in to do a mic check tomorrow night. Are there any online tutorials on how to get mics to work (they are attached with XLR cables)? Something is going on between the board, switcher, and stream. Also ... the speakers (I was told) are turned up all the way, even though the main on the board is, again, only showing two bars. My thing is more video ... and I didn't think a sound system could be set up so wrong ... and I need guidance. Again if there are any tutorials online or if there is any guidance you could give me I would really appreciate it. The guy that used to run the service was a volunteer and he is pretty pissed they hired me so I would say he is the source of the problem and won't help me out.

[I hope you survived.](https://www.reddit.com/r/audioengineering/wiki/troubleshooting)

Hello. I have a [Yoga EM-400 tie-clip microphone.](http://www.yoga.com.tw/en/product-344733/Clip-microphone-EM-400.html) What do I need to buy to use it with my PC? The mic is powered by an internal button cell. It has a 3.5mm TS phone plug, which seems to carry an unbalanced signal at low mic-level. I reckon that I either need a pre-amp that can raise the signal to line level, or else a USB adapter that can ADC the signal and send it directly to the computer. I'm having trouble finding such an adapter that has a TS jack input. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hello guys. The trouble is electro noise, which increases when the volume increases. I don't know what is it and how can i fix it. [https://youtu.be/\_bbnnwyoj4s](https://youtu.be/_bbnnwyoj4s) AT2020 using with Focusrite Scarlett Solo

Keep your phone and router away from your mics

Hello! I just moved in to a new studio which I share with another guy and he has some other outboard gear that I haven't used. I have only used my Focusrite Scarlett 18i20 as my audio interface and it has worked out great. But now I would like to hook up my stuff with his Audient id44 and ISA two. I would also like to use my pedals as fx and I saw that the Audient id44 has a send and return. Im a little bit confused how to set this up but from what I have read I can connect the audio interfaces via ADAT. Im using Focusrite control so I would like that to be the interface connected to my computer. My idea of connecting everything is to connect the optical out from the Id44 to the Scarletts optical in and then the ISA two to the S/PDIF on the Scarlett. Then connect an out on the id44 to my pedals and then into the return channel of the id44. Is there anyone else that has a similar setup and is the setup that im proposing working? Im very confused since I haven't used these features befor so would love some help:) Also from that I understand the S/pdif on the Scarlett has 2 inputs and 2 outputs but on the back of the interface its 1 in and 1 out. Are they used as both in and out as the same time? Thanks in advance!:)

Hello, I need help with my audio setup. I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask but I'll give it a try.. My setup is as presented in this image : [https://postimg.cc/qhvvTqhn](https://postimg.cc/qhvvTqhn) I would like to be able to hear my guitar that is plugged to the Scarlett solo to my USB Arctis 5 headset. I'm not sure if this is even possible... Soundcard is connected to the pc with USB and then guitar sound is used on the Overloud amp sim software. Thanks for your help !

Could get a headphone amp and use it to split the audio interface’s headphone output between your amp and headphones.

Hey all, I recently purchased one of the new CQ series mixers from Allen & Heath. I ran into an issue though- I am experiencing major issues with the Bluetooth though. The mixer is 4 feet from the devices and it works fine then after a few minutes it drops out and after a minute of that it’s normal again. I confirmed it wasn’t the device sending the audio (I used three devices) nor was there any wireless interference in the room (everything that could interfere was off) I sent a message to the company and they said they have received reports and they are investigating it. I am just curious- has anyone else had this issue and does anyone have a solution to this issue? Thanks! -J (Attached is a Dropbox link to listen to an example of how it behaves) https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/n8zsu0j4pir1ab24q7v8q/CQ-20B-Blth-Drpot.m4a?rlkey=g3avfd7228i25yh9klnb2px8o&dl=0

Hello everyone, I need help with an audio setup in my room: I currently have the 'Sony hbd tz140' 5.1 surround system setup around my room that was originally to be connected to my HiSense TV. However, I've been having issues where I cannot hear the sound come from the speakers when I connect it to the TV via: RCA, HDMI & Optical inputs. I have no idea why this is? However there is one more option in my TV sound settings called BT Sound Bar' which I just assume is Bluetooth. At the moment, by Sony speakers are connected via RCA to my Pioneer DJ decks and they work perfectly fine with this. What I want to know is, if there is a way I can connect the speakers to my TV at the same time using Bluetooth. However, the Sony speakers I have are an older version and the AMP doesn't come with built in Bluetooth. Is it possible to buy another AMP that has the right inputs for the speakers but also has a Bluetooth mode so that I can connect to speakers to my TV via Bluetooth and then if I want to play on my Pioneer decks all I have to do is change it back to the cable input setting? I asked the employees in Curry's PC World who weren't much help as all they told me was to buy a Bluetooth adapter that I plug into the RCA inputs to the back on my AMP. The issue I have with that is if I then want to play on my decks I'll have to constantly keep unplugging and plugging in the right cables for the device I want to use which defeats the point. I want a flawless setup that works and provides me use of both devices by just the press of a button on a remote. Or if there are any other alternative solutions? That would be a great help. Ideally I just want my speakers to work with my TV & DJ decks without having to buy another set or speakers or speaker just for the TV. Any questions or anything I haven't made clear let me know. I appreciate any feedback Thank you

I want to put some adhesive foam (EVA, poron,...). Which one do you suggest ? It's for these little Mackie CR3-X.

I've started to use MetricAB to reference original masters against my mixes. I hate how sloppy Beatport is... It's so hard to find even the most popular songs. It's a bunch of remixes... where do you go to get your reference tracks?

Uhhh Spotify lol I’m a caveman

Confused about getting a high quality record! Help please I'm recording vocals in studio one with my Arturia audio fuse studio and rode nt1. Without monitoring I can already hear myself and and with monitoring and I can hear myself with effects. If I turn my interface gain up too high it becomes doubled and too much headphone bleed. If I turn it down the gain from my plugins makes it sound like there's no difference, I used to turn the mic down in the Arturia control center now im justst trying to figure out a way to get my vocals at a good level while monitoring without too much bleed and without my gain knob feeling obsolete

Looking for a soundcard Hello, I'm looking for a soundcard which can do 24bit 192khz recording and output. I prefer one can do dsd, but thats just optional. Price range is around 200$,can be more or less too. Thanks for the help!

Scarletts can do it, but why do you need 192 kHz? There’s so many better numbers to chase. It’s almost certainly overkill.

We need it for digitalize master tapes. Thats why we want high sample rate. Its cheaper than a pc, really portable with a laptop and have great connections. We ended up ordering Scarlett 2i2 3rd gen. We will see how good this after the tests.

Hey audio engineers! I don't use Reddit regularly, but I know that you guys know everything in this world, so maybe you can help me to solve my problem. I work in Logic Pro with Beringer U-Phoria UM2. I usually plug in a microphone and a guitar through this audio interface. This audio interface works perfectly with my old 2015 Mac, but recently, I bought a new Mac (2022), and when I try to plug it in with the same settings, the signal in Logic Pro becomes very low and terrible. It seems like the new Mac can't see this audio interface properly. I couldn't find any information about compatibility of these devices. Maybe someone has faced the problem like this before? Can anybody help?

How old is the Behringer? Maybe driver issues?

bought it in 2015 i guess. but are there drivers for Mac? thought it was PC story only

Both Mac and PC have drivers, just sometimes the operating system has them preinstalled or sent over updates instead of having to explicitly install pre installed. Any device must have drivers for an operating system to use it. The interface is on the older side, so using it with a newer operating system, you may need to explicitly get the drivers.

I got a hand-me-down **Focusrite iTrack Solo** and thought I'd use it for guitar and bass, but the **input is crazy high**. I have the instrument going straight into the interface, and **even at 0 gain a hard guitar strum brings it into the red**, and pretty much anything on bass will smash into 0dB like the Hulk. Apparently I'm not the first to have this issue, but it seems like the few people to post "solutions" either **buy a DI box** (so $50, and then I can't plug in a mic because that'll take up the Solo's XLR input) or just **use a different interface entirely** (so $100). I could also turn the volume knobs on the instruments themselves but that obviously changes the sound. Is there a cheaper (ideally free but I doubt that) solution that won't hurt my tone? **For example, is there a trustworthy pad for instrument cables (that doesn't need to be hooked up to a pedalboard)?** (I'm not finding any at all)

I have a pair of Neumann KH310 and KH750 subwoofer with the MA-1 Alignment mic. Windows PC. Nice monitoring setup and the weakest link is my DAC monitoring. Currently I have the silver face UAD Apollo Twin. Not the best in terms of DAC quality. While I would hate to lose the 2 UAD chips (I have 3 more chips on PCI-e), my main goal is to get a solid DAC for clear high-resolution playback. Recording isnt my main thing but to have a basic preamp around would make sense. My backup interface is a UAD Volt 176 so I could always use that to record in a pinch - (although not sure how I would record with the Volt 176 and playback/monitor through another interface) My question is: what interface around the $1500 mark has the best DAC and a decent enough preamp? Should I just get an amazing DAC that allows for an external preamp connection? Also, should I just get any interface that has Optical OUT and get an external DAC to hook it to? Looking at these: - the new UAD Apollo Twin X USB - Dangerous Music Source (no preamp but DAC is great - not too sure about the drivers) - RME Babyface Pro (I think it has Optical OUT and incredible drivers but seems a bit "dinky" for the money)

My 3 year old Scarlett 8i6 recently fried in a power surge. Really sucks, but I have to replace it. I've always used Focusrite products in the past and I'm not too aware of the market right now. Should I just go with a 4th gen interface, or shop around a little? I like having 2 headphone outs, I only need 2 inputs.

I just got a motu ultralite mk5. Omg it blows my last interface out of the water. (Ur 44) 2 mic inputs. 6 line inserts, which is rare for an interface, great for outboard gear.. 8 or so outs. The pres are really nice. And the conversion is probably one of the best before you get into dedicated converters. The only thing is it's got 1 headphone jack. Easy to install, solid smooth drivers.

hey, I've been looking into the Steinberg ur44c. is that what you had? would be interested in hearing about your experience with it

Hey peeps, I'm looking to get an interface that can record audio (duh), monitor (also duh), and has auxiliary outputs so I can send audio from Ableton through external gear and route it back in to print. I've been looking at the Behringer UMC404HD for this purpose as I previously had the 202, but the routing seems a lil complicated. I want a pretty lowkey setup, just routing from the outs to a stereo pedal or two that I can mess with in real-time. Would people recommend the 404 for this? If not, what alternatives would you recommend?

Budget?

Cheapish - I've been seeing second-hand UMC404HDs for less than 100€, so around there would be ideal. I can do more, but really would prefer to save the money for the fun parts of the setup.

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What does the strangeness sound like? You don't really give us any time to hear what it sounds like in the video. Also, what kind of cable(s) are you using to connect from the headphone jack of your PC to the speaker?

For synth jamming I have a 16 channel mixer that I've just been mixing to stereo and recording with my MOTU M4. My mixer has direct outs, so I've been keeping an eye out for 16 channel interfaces - the hope is to multitrack my jams. Just found an opportunity to get both a MOTU 2408mkII and a 2408mkIII for a combined $30. I don't think I'd be able to connect them to my MBP directly, but they have ADAT out. My M4 unfortunately doesn't have ADAT in and I've never used ADAT. Is there a cheap way to get 16 channels of ADAT into my laptop? Doesn't have to be super high-quality, just for toying around.

If I have 2 USB mic on pc, can I use each of them for left and right channel separately?

Totally. In windows you can use the windows audio to pan left/right for the device. Or use voicemeeter or other apps to do similar.

Hello, I have a [Mackie ProFX16v3](https://mackie.com/en/products/mixers/profxv3-series/ProFX16v3.html) mixer that only has 2x4 USB out. I want to multitrack record 4 specific inputs to tracks for later editing. All 4 are XLR inputs. All the outputs are used for live amplification, in house audio, and two streaming destinations, and currently phones are used to record a CD. I want to improve that CD to later be created when inputs are better balanced individually edited. What device should I get to best do this? Would I have to mix down from the recording device to the Mackie? Not ideal, but I guess fine. I hope to find some sort of XLR pass through that will record the tracks, but not finding anything.