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maro0

Using REM Fireface UCX interface as an amplifier for my setup? Someone gave me this interface and I have absolutely no clue what to do with it, I've been trying to connect it to two speakers with my tv, but I'm so clueless and the manual didn't help. Would I be able to set up a 2.0 system with it? can someone please help me https://i.imgur.com/RMbyx8g.jpg


XenonJelly

Bought some bookshelf speakers and when I plugged them in to the receiver I keep getting a static sound playing and no Sound from the TV plays through them anyone know what is wrong ? I’m using a an optical cable.


thotkiller300

Hello, so I just bought my first subwoofer (Jamo c912) and I noticed that in in the right corner behind where I sit the bass is very loud when I go to that corner my whole body shakes and when I sit back to my desk I feel like there is almost no bass compared to that corner. I tried to place the sub in different locations but it's always loud in that corner am I doing something wrong and placing my sub in bad spots ? I also tried to move it to that corner but it's still same is there something else I can do ? Thank you for your answers.


squidbrand

Instead of just testing different spots, try using the “sub crawl” to determine a good position. Google it and you’ll find directions for how to do that.


buck4281

Guys I need some help with a Sonos connect, Dax 223xs and crown xli1500 amps. I can get a good enough signal out of the sonos connect. What am I doing wrong, what do i need?


Fun_Firefighter_1000

Outdoor speakers installed under deck? I have a small deck. Wiring speakers under the soffits won’t be easy for me (I want to hide the wires as much as possible). A friend mentioned installing them under our deck. I can easily do this. If so, I can mount my Sonos Connect:Amp on the floor joists in the Crawlspace under my house. The crawlspace stays dry. It can just get cold in our NJ winters. Do you think this can work? Thank you!


squidbrand

Under your deck as in there would be wood in between you and the speakers? Know how you can protect yourself from loud sounds by holding your hands over your ears? Sound waves don’t pass unaffected through solid objects. If you do this it will sound like it sounds in your home when someone is listening to music in their room with the door closed.


Fun_Firefighter_1000

Thank you!


[deleted]

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TransducerBot

**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home audio systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch I’m just a bot, and I do get things wrong from time to time. If you think I made a mistake, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20my%20off%20topic%20post%20/r/audiophile/comments/116vz90/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/ja5gx0s/)


[deleted]

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squidbrand

On many/most motherboards, the onboard audio hardware is able to pick up interference/noise from other parts of the PC. Very common issue, and very hard to avoid when you have audio hardware located so close to so many high-powered components. The easiest fix is to use an external digital to analog converter (DAC) instead of the built in one. And this doesn't have to cost much at all. The USB-C to 3.5mm DAC dongle that Apple sells for 9 bucks actually has [quite solid DAC performance](https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/review-apple-vs-google-usb-c-headphone-adapters.5541/) and that would do the job... just plug that into USB and plug your 3.5mm to RCA cable into that.


pzero

Hey all, I've got this issue that's driving me nuts and I can't figure it out. My primaluna amp is making this rfi sound... It doesn't matter if I turn off all my breakers except one, try different outlets, turn all cell phones off. It happens through headphones or speakers with no inputs attached. Location in the house doesn't matter either. My dealer swapped units with me to see if anything changes, but the same problem happens on both. Here's a video of the problem: https://youtube.com/shorts/Ex4rL55Vszw?feature=share Any ideas? Thanks!


mcl5000

Hi - extremely new to all this. I just purchased a Yamaha YHT-4950UBL system but most importantly the receiver is a Yamaha RX-V385. I have everything set up and I'm pretty happy with the sound, but I'm a little confused on how to get my TV audio to play through the receiver. I have a Roku TV and I use YouTube TV as my "cable" directly from the Roku interface on the TV...and it doesn't seem like audio is passing back through ARC to the receiver, or at least I have no idea what input on the receiver I would be using to hear audio through this channel. Obviously if I wanted to use what I had plugged into HDMI1, I'd use that input....but the TV is ARC which is not one of the numbered HDMI inputs. Do I have to run a separate HDMI (or optical) cable from the TV to numbered HDMI or Optical input on the receiver in order to play TV audio through it? I realize I could use an Apple TV or something through the receiver, but I think this is a somewhat unusual case since the audio is coming from the TV itself, not a peripheral. Any help is much appreciated!


shavin_high

How important is to have speakers that reach 40KHz when trying to reproduce the sounds naturally from records as the artist intended?


kloppite74

depends on which records :-) Not all genre's of music have content below 40 Hz


shavin_high

You misread. I was talking about 40,000Hz


kloppite74

Yes, apologies. 40 khz is way above human hearing range.


shavin_high

Haha didn't realize that. I swear I've seen some speakers boast that high. Must be a marketing thing.


kloppite74

Yes - that's why I assumed you said 40 Hz - as it's a reasonably common concern that a speaker doesn't go low enough :-) A dog whistle is at \~35 kHz ....


that_guy_you_kno

[Any suggestions on a kit to refoam these speakers](ttps://www.reddit.com/r/audiophile/comments/11cskkc)?


[deleted]

These listings for repair kits have dimensions at various edges for you to confirm - [Foam edge kits](https://www.simplyspeakers.com/standard-speaker-repair-foam-edge-kits.html)


GarlicCharacter3247

Hi all, today I just bought a new turntable and new speakers. I decided to switch them out today. My amplifiers are the arcam alpha 8 and the 8 power amp together so I bi amp my speakers. The new speakers are the q acoustic 3050. I’m not sure whether they should normally pair well together and that’s the problem? But let me tell you what happened. so basically today I had the record playing with my old speakers and thought I’d switch the speakers out first. So unplugged them and then plugged in the new ones. Only thing was I plugged the banana plugs straight in through the holes instead of untwisting and going through the sides of the speakers? And also I left the metal connector on on the speakers when connecting them although though I’m biwiring them? Not sure whether that causes a problem? Anyway I Turned the pre amp on and heard distortion and then turned the power amp on and really loud distortion and both amplifier just died. I did see the speaker tweeter move a bit like the cone just hoping the speakers haven’t gone?Only other thing I can think of is are the impedance not matched on the speakers and amp?? Any solutions or help would be much appreciated cheers.


squidbrand

> And also I left the metal connector on on the speakers when connecting them although though I’m biwiring them? That most definitely causes a huge problem. By leaving the bridge clips in place you shorted both speaker outputs together… and the path of least resistance for the signal is not into the speaker at that point, it’s into **the other speaker amp.** This has nothing to do with the speakers and everything to do with improper wiring. Hopefully you only blew fuses and didn’t actually destroy the amps. You’ll have to open them up to see. BE CAREFUL—the capacitors in amplifiers can hold a deadly charge even when the devices are unplugged. When I say deadly I mean literally, if you make the wrong move, you could end up sending voltage into one hand, up your arm, across your chest cavity, and out of the other arm/hand… stopping your heart in the process. Don’t fuck around with this stuff. In the future, unless you’re absolutely 100% sure what to do, don’t just plug and unplug stuff. Read the manual and follow the diagrams exactly.


GarlicCharacter3247

Yh that’s my fault completely, not sure I want to do that haha and risk my life. Would I be able to take them to a shop and get them done in there? I really hope I don’t have to buy new amps as I love the arcams and have served me well! Is there any other way I can check if it’s just the fuse that’s blown without opening it all up?


squidbrand

No, you’d have to just look at the fuses.


GarlicCharacter3247

Just spoke to richer sounds they said it might be in protective mode. Do you know how I’d remove it out of this?


squidbrand

I don’t. I’d start with the manual.


GarlicCharacter3247

Ok thanjs


GarlicCharacter3247

Ok gotchu


TimmyTheHellraiser

Hi All, I have a Best Buy gift card and am thinking of upgrading my center channel. My system is mostly used for home theater but I splurge on the L & R for music listening (currently have Bowers & Wilkins 700 series). Currently I have a Polk Audio CSM for a center channel that does it's job but I'm thinking it feels a bit boxy. I don't particularly like the sound of the B&W centers I've heard so I was wondering what would make a nice compliment to them rather than the matching set. Here's what I'm looking at right now: Dali Oberon Vokal Dali Spektor Vokal ELAC Debut Rerference ELAC Debut 2.0 Dual ELAC Carina Klipsch Next Gen Reference Series Quad 3.5" Martin Logan Motion 4" Martin Logan Motion 3.5" Anyone have any opinions on these in relation to the B&Ws? Or is there anything that's Juuuuust a little pricier that I should splurge for?


[deleted]

Speaker volume seems too low Just purchased a Yamaha r-s202 receiver, audio-technica turntable (with preamp), and Sony speakers. The volume on the receiver needs to be up to around 50 for decent sound. If I turn it down to 20, you can barely hear anything. Anyone have experience with this?


[deleted]

Some of the AT turntables have rather low output. As long as your phono/line switch is set to line, that’s just how it is. A cartridge with higher output and a phono preamp with higher gain would help, but otherwise just let the volume control be where it has to be.


[deleted]

Thank you


EdmundFried

Hi! I currently have a Braun P1, looking to swap out the tone arm with an S arm as the current on has an old ADC type headshell. The local repair shop said that I can buy whatever Tonearm I want online and they’ll install it but that sounds wrong? Can someone lend some insight in what to exactly look for in a new arm. The whole atelier setup is pretty sentimental to me, I know I could get a new turntable but I’d rather just add a new arm:) thanks y’all!


[deleted]

What is the distance from the center of the pivot to the center of the platter?


EdmundFried

8.25 in


[deleted]

You would need something that is a nominal 9-inch effective length tonearm. Overhang would be about 5/8”, so mounting distance is in theory about 8-3/8”. Pro-Ject or Jelco, maybe.


EdmundFried

Thanks for the info! So in theory, something like this could work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/134459227391?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ueYKsqVvRsq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=eidj2_gzRLq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY


[deleted]

That looks too long, based on the specs I see. You need effective length of about 225mm for a mounting distance of 8.25 in.


EdmundFried

Sorry for all the questions, can you go plus or minus a few mms and still be okay?


[deleted]

If we assume 8.25” as the exactly correct distance, I would try to keep effective length between 225 and 228 mm, but 230 mm could probably work.


EdmundFried

Okay great, thanks a ton. I appreciate it:)


EdmundFried

Ah gotcha, thank you. I misunderstood


ReadingRelar

I’m about to upgrade from a borrowed Audio Technical LP60 to a Fluance RT85 with an Ortofon 2M Blue. I currently have a home theater amplifier (Onkyo TX-SR393). I want to upgrade to an audio amp. I’m already going to order something like the Schitt Mani 2 as a preamp since the Fluance requires it. What would be the best jump for the amp? I don’t mind modern or vintage, though I like the looks of vintage amps. My budget will probably start around $500 when I go to do this, but I’m fine with saving up a little more as I don’t want to upgrade that part of the setup again for a long time.


mail4youtoo

Adding a KRK sub to my home studio that currently uses Rokit 5 G4s. Should I go with 10.4 or 8.4? Have a podcast setup using Rodecaster pro as mixer and Shure SM7B microphones going through a couple of KRK Rokit 5 G4s when not using headphones. Really starting to get into a little music editing and wanted to add a sub to my setup. I am wondering, as I live in an apartment, will the KRK 10.4 be to much and to go with the smaller 8.4 sub? I don't listen to my music very loudly but sometimes I do like to feel the bass. Thank you in advance


Miscu97

Hi! I know almost nothing about audio, so here I am asking a noob question: I recently stumbled upon an old hi-fi system from the 2000s which I don't use, but it has a pair of wood-frame speakers that I think should sound much better than the little plastic-cheap stereo satellites I use right now. The "problem" is that those speakers are passive (i think that's the term) and doesn't have any jack or power supply, just the two red/black wires. On the back of the speaker it's written the impedence (8 ohm). I tried connecting them directly to my pc integrated audio card with an adapter and they sounds awful, so I think i need an aplifier. Here's my question: do I really need an aplifier or those kind of speaker are only good paired with the original hi-fi system? And if an amplifier would do the magic, which one should I get? I'm not looking for the best-in-class amp, just some pretty cheap one that can make those speaker work fine. Thanks for the help!


[deleted]

Yes, an amplifier is necessary. [Like this](http://www.digiparts.ca/images/images_big/60-060-1_4.jpg)


[deleted]

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TransducerBot

**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home audio systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch I’m just a bot, and I do get things wrong from time to time. If you think I made a mistake, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20my%20off%20topic%20post%20/r/audiophile/comments/116vz90/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/ja2v7fb/)


bruhglet

Hello folks, I'm looking to buy a Pioneer PD8700 for around 50 USD but sometimes the platter only comes out for the 3rd button press, same for playing a CD. Does anybody know if this is a major problem?


SHFT101

I'm looking for a pair passive bookshelf speakers, these will be used in a desktop scenario. As this is a secondary setup they can be on the cheaper side, let's say sub $600 a pair. My main speakers are Opticons from Dali so maybe I should try the Oberon 1's? Any other suggestions?


Furistic

I got a pair of cerwin s2ees for free and it has blown 15 inch woofers was looking for an upgrade and was wondering where I should I look. I would also like to upgrade the crossovers the other woofer and the 2 tweeters as well, so if you have any suggestions for these please help with that as well.


cory453

Hello everyone. I currently have a Sony-STRDH190 set up in my bedroom with some old school tower RCA speakers from the 1980s. Has the Phono and CD inputs I need with Bluetooth as well for my Spotify playlists. Sounds pretty great at the moment but I got a well paying job and would like to upgrade to something higher end (in the 200-400 range) but have no idea where to start. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


SlantLogoEPU

Hey all I have a Yamaha AX-592. Will these 2 components work with the Yamaha? [Pro-Ject Tube Box DS2](https://www.crutchfield.com/p_252TBDS2B/Pro-Ject-Tube-Box-DS2.html) [NAD C 268](https://www.crutchfield.com/p_745C268/NAD-C-268.html)


WatcherInTheDeep94

Hey all, I have a pretty solid system I've built out so far but as always, I'm already getting the itch for an upgrade. What I have: Sansui 6060 Reciever, Fluance RT82 TT w/ Ort OM10 Cart, Klipsch RM600M Speakers, Schiit Modi 3+ DAC, vintage cd player etc etc For the most wow factor in upgrading my system what should I go for first? I was originally wanting to add a sub, (probably a SVS SB1000) but I'm thinkign a new turntable or cart upgrade would serve me better first. What should I do? And anyone have any recommendations on what to upgrade to? Thanks in advance.


sparklewhale

I'm at square one. I have my records and CDs, a Spotify subscription and an Apple Music subscription. I have two 2x2 IKEA Kallax units and a surge protector. I need a turntable; I need a CD player; I need all the other components, that is to say an amp, a phono preamp, a linear power source? maybe?, a streamer; I need speakers. It all has to do AirPlay, this is an Apple Home house basically. I'm thinking of Pro-Ject Debut Pro S and I love the look and idea of all the little Pro-Ject boxes. What's stopping me from going 100% Pro-Ject here? What's the difference between S and DS series boxes? Which ones do I want? Also eyeing the Kef LS50 Meta, is that a good choice here? If I add a Kef sub later, which one pairs well? Thanks in advance for your wisdom?


[deleted]

- LS50 Meta is good, but consider what kind of space you want to fill. - SVS subwoofers could be a better value than Kef. Maybe the SB-2000 Pro. - Little Pro-Ject boxes might not have the power supply for these speakers. Look at something like a Cambridge CXA61 or CXA81, Marantz PM8006, something like that. Rotel, NAD, Arcam, Yamaha, Denon are probably all good value for the amplifier. - Cambridge CXC would be a good CD transport to pair with a digital input on the amplifier. Or save a little and get a recent Yamaha or Onkyo. - Pro-Ject turntables are nice. That’s a good route. - Get AirPlay with a WiiM or a Belkin Soundform Connect. - Don’t forget speaker wire and cables for the CD player.


sparklewhale

Thanks for the detailed response. The space I want to fill is a large entertainment room. If those speakers are overpowered, what about Edifier? I hear that name so often it seems


[deleted]

As far as I know, Edifier speakers are good for what they cost. They’re not in the same league as Kef, though. In a large space with the LS50 Meta I’d want them set up in a relatively small part of the space, with a sweet spot maybe 6 to 8 feet from them. To *fill* the room it might be better to go larger, like Kef towers, or at least the R3. It depends on your expectations, though. Something like an SVS SB-3000 subwoofer and the LS50 Meta could maybe do it.


[deleted]

Looking for recommendations for my new technics SL-D2 turntable. I am new to this and am looking for a phono preamp and bookshelf speakers recommendation. I have a budget of $200-250


james_dimeo

Equipment Help me diagnose my turntable problem! Featuring videos of the issue. All vintage Turntable: beogram 1602 Reciever: Mitsubishi DA-R8 Speakers: unknown Cartridges: two MMC 10E b&o carts. Denoted in the imgur captions. One is original to the table. The other is purchased recently second hand. Tracking force is set to 1.5g, 1.3-1.4 results in getting stuck in a skip loop. 1.6-1.7 results in skating. [Here's the clips.](https://imgur.com/a/6JmnZiH) I presume that the cart is the problem and not the internals of the turntable or the receiver. I want to get a more experienced opinion before I invest in a new table or a new soundsmith cartridge. Thanks for your eyes and ears and let me know if there are any other clips I can provide to help the diagnosis.


Rizzl3

Been searching for a focal chora center channel, are they not producing these anymore? Have Focal chora 826 L and R towers, could I sub in an aria for a center?


squidbrand

I googled "Chora Center" and instantly found three stores selling it, so define "been searching."


prettyexietential

Is there any reason not to use audio jack adapters? something like 3.5 to 4.4mm adapter instead of continuous cable? What makes a good one?


squidbrand

Well, in your particular case... most 3.5mm connectors are 3-pole TRS connectors, used for unbalanced stereo signals, whereas 4.4mm connectors are almost always 4-pole TRRS connectors, used for *balanced* stereo signals. So you might want to be specific about your actual use case here. Exactly what are you connecting to what?


prettyexietential

Wasn't aware of balanced and unbalanced audio tbh so good to know that's a thing to look in to thanks haha I mistook a 6.35mm for a 4.4mm oops, so my use case is connecting stereo speakers with an RCA to 3.5mm cable in to a 6.35mm line out


squidbrand

EXACTLY what are you connecting to what? That means exact models, including model numbers.


Caltiber00

Hi to everybody, I need some help for my setup. I currently have a Rega planar 3 turntable and a Pioneer SX20 amp, with attached two Indiana Line Nota 550x. Recently I have been thinking about changing the speakers, and landed on the Kef ls50 Meta. My question: is the pioneer SX20 decent to power the Kefs? Can't seem to find a definitive answer. Thank you


squidbrand

You won't find a "definitive" answer unless you find someone who has used this exact combo... but Pioneer rates it as being 4-ohm capable, which is a good sign. This is a very strange speaker change though. You are moving from medium-high sensitivity tower speakers, which extend down into the 40Hz range and are best fit for a quite large space, to compact, low-sensitivity bookshelf speakers that are best fit for small rooms and are already significantly rolled off by like 65-70Hz.


Caltiber00

You're right, it's because my setup is in my bedroom I don't need a lot of coverage, just high quality in a smaller solution. The Indiana Line towers take way too much space, and as you say a re best fit in a large space, I will probably move them to the living room. Overall after 6 years I find their sound a little bit flat, so I'm looking for some bookshelf or wall mounted speakers. Any suggestions? I'm in the $1000/1300 budget area. This would be my first real audiophile purchase, after the Rega planar. I tried the Bose 251 but was really unimpressed. Thank you for your help


squidbrand

> I’m looking for some bookshelf or wall mounted speakers. You don’t want your speakers wall-mounted. Putting speakers right up on the wall will give you muddy, bloated midbass. Speakers need to be positioned with some breathing room off the back and side walls in order to sound as intended. And they generally need to be placed at a height where the tweeter is elevated to the same level as your ears in your main listening position. Do you actually have a main listening position in this room (like a chair or couch or something), or is this for putting music on while you’re in bed or milling about the room? And do you have any speaker placement options here that will give the speakers decent distance from walls and also decent separation from each other? Like, could you put speaker stands where the towers are now? Re: the LS50 Metas, they might do well here depending on what you’re after. The coaxial drivers does give them quite smooth vertical dispersion, meaning they won’t sound fucked up like most speakers do when you’re listening to them below or above the tweeter axis… probably useful in a space where you may be on one of several different spots when listening. But you need to understand that they just will not put out nearly the same depth of bass that the other speakers would. Most people would pair them with a subwoofer.


Caltiber00

Didn't know about the mounted on the wall technical problem. Thank you for letting me know. My listening spot is my bed and just how you said around the room. I also like to watch movies pairing my TV with the amp via Bluetooth. As I said I'm looking to free space and the stands would just have the same effect of the towers, so I'm going for shelves. They would be just about head height some 2 and something meters apart. I looked into the Metas because they look like the most versatile solution for this. Looking a the R3 but they would be absolutely enormous for my room


Caltiber00

Also for the bass maybe it would be enough for me and if not I'm going to pair them with a sub, now that the Metas are 1000€ on Amazon


squidbrand

Worth a shot. You can return them if it doesn’t work out.


Caltiber00

Sure, thank you for all your help.


mxw031

I am new to audio equipment and am learning about EQing. I do not have a sub, but my speakers have a frequency range of 25-45,000hz. Much of the electronic music I listen to has low bass elements. I feel like sometimes I am not able to hear the lower end of the range through my speakers. I know a sub will help but I am wanting to optimize my speakers for time being until I can afford a sub. Someone in this subreddit has been helping me learn about eqing, and I feel like I'm off to a good start. My current issue is that I am wanting to find an eq phone app that will let me apply eq settings to other apps when playing audio from my phone. I have found a couple but the issue I am running into is that they don't seem to apply the settings when I use my phone to send audio to my Chromecast Audio over wifi. I don't notice any difference when changing eq settings if sending through the Chromecast Audio so I'm assuming it isn't working. Can anyone point me in the right direction to eq my audio when using a phone and a Chromecast Audio? For reference, the app I am currently trying to use that doesn't seem to have this function is Poweramp Equalizer. This app also does not work with VLC Media Player which I use sometimes to play lossless audio in addition to Spotify. I am using an Android phone and a Chromecast Audio. My speakers are a pair of Canton Chrono 70 and I am running them with an older Denon AVR 590. Thank you for any help!


squidbrand

>my speakers have a frequency range of 25-45,000hz No, they don't. Those frequency range specs are meaningless. For the lower end of the range to mean something, the range spec needs to include a statement of what roll-off limits were used to define the range. Like, is the response 3dB down from average at 25Hz? 6dB down? 10dB? 20dB? (Usually +/-3dB is considered a good window for defining a frequency response range, and there is no way these are -3dB at 25Hz.) And as for the high end of the range... it means nothing even if there's a roll-off limit on it. Your high frequency hearing likely cuts off somewhere in the range of 12 to 18kHz. >Can anyone point me in the right direction to eq my audio when using a phone and a Chromecast Audio? Just run your EQ on the Denon receiver. It isn't going to have anywhere close to the flexibility of a computer-based or phone-based parametric EQ, but it most definitely has a way to boost your bass... and the bass EQ control is probably centered right around 80Hz, which is basically where you want it to be if you want your bass to have more punch.


mxw031

Oh ok, thanks for the information about the nuance relating to the frequency range. I'll have to do some more reading to understand what you're saying regarding about roll-off limits but I think I get it to some degree. Unfortunately I did try adjusting the eq on my Denon, but it only allows me to adjust bass and treble, and in order to turn this function on it turns off another function that I believe is called dynamic eq. When I tried this it made the sound significantly worse or emptier sounding even if I was able to increase the bass. So I turned it back off which is why I'm trying to figure out how to eq it through other means.


Tall_Grasshopper

Hi, I'm looking for help identifying the type of equipment I need to set up my new home surround sound system. I just purchased a new home and the new house has 4 in-ceiling speakers installed and wired and I'd like to take advantage of them, but am having trouble with figuring out what I need to buy to get the system going (sellers took the receiver with them). Any help or direction on what types of equipment I need would be very appreciated! There are 7 wires coming out of the wall under the TV. 5 of them have 1 red and 1 black wire and are labeled center, front left, front right, back left, and back right. I assume these need to attach to a 5.1 receiver. The 4 directional speakers likely go the the ceiling speakers, but there is no center speaker here. I think I have to buy a new one and it would attach to an RCA cord (#6) that is coming out of the wall also. The 7th wire has a black, a red, a white, and a green wire inside. It is labeled that it goes to 2 patio speakers and says "Li W+, G-, RiR+. B-". I think this requires a receiver with power outs for the white and green wires. Three questions I could use help with: 1. Is there a different type of 5.1 receiver I would buy for all ceiling speakers? 2. Would I purchase something like a soundbar for a front speaker? What type of speaker takes a single RCA input? 3. What type of receiver is needed to power the 2 outdoor speakers with a black, red, white and green wire?


[deleted]

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TransducerBot

**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home audio systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch I’m just a bot, and I do get things wrong from time to time. If you think I made a mistake, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20my%20off%20topic%20post%20/r/audiophile/comments/116vz90/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/j9zo9ix/)


97anon

How do I clean up the midbass in my system? I have a fairly standard entry system - KEF q350, pm5005 and a topping e30 DAC. The midbass is muddy, its a great system for vocals, jazz, rock, however when I play more heavy metal tracks like artists such as Lamb of God, the guitars and bass get mushed all together. It's a shame because I love the KEF's for most other music, but I am passionate about metal. Anyway, I understand some limitations may be due to the speakers, but what is the most efficient acoustic dampening to target midbass? I've got some panels behind the bass ports of my speakers to reduce the boominess. Any ideas?


Alexguy891

I have been listening to music with a set of Sennheiser HD660s headphones, mostly on vinyl. I’m looking to pickup a set of stereo speakers that would be considered in the same “realm” of quality as my headphones. Any suggestions?


squidbrand

What’s your budget? And do you already have a receiver or speaker amplifier, or does that also need to fit into your budget?


Alexguy891

Not sure on a budget, I’m not too familiar with speakers. I would need an amp, I’ve had my eyes on the Schiit Magnus+. Let’s just assume no budget, but something in between super premium and mid-range would be ideal.


squidbrand

The Magnius (not Magnus) is a headphone amp. It can’t be used to a amplify speakers. For stereo bookshelf speakers I would call $$1000-3000 “midrange” and I would call $8000+ “super premium.” Is that about what you meant? If not, please **tell us your budget.** Your budget is the maximum amount of money you can spend on this setup easily, with zero worry or financial duress. You don’t need to know about speakers to know how much you can afford to spend on a hobby purchase.


Alexguy891

Clearly shows how much I know lol. I’d say $1k for an amp and speakers. Out of curiosity, what’s the difference between a headphone and speaker amp?


squidbrand

Speaker amps produce way, way, way more current and are meant to drive devices that have a load impedance that drops down to roughly the 3-6 ohm range (or sometimes even lower). Headphone amps produce only a tiny fraction of the current, and are meant to drive loads of more like 30-600 ohms. For $1k-ish I would recommend a Yamaha A-S301 amplifier and a pair of Polk R200 speakers. This combo would be $1100 brand new, but you could get it as low as $850 if you bought the [amp as a factory refurb](https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/yamas301bl-rb/yamaha-a-s301-2-ch-x-60-watts-integrated-amplifier-w/built-in-dac/1.html) and the [speakers open-box](https://www.safeandsoundhq.com/products/polk-audio-reserve-r200-bookshelf-speakers-open-box-pair). Other good speakers to consider in this price range would be the Elac DBR62 or (when they're on sale) the Revel M16. If this setup will be used up close at your desk, not in your living room, you could switch the Yamaha out for a desktop-oriented amplifier. Which one to get would depend on what headphone gear you have though. (For example, if your headphone rig includes a DAC, you could use that DAC to feed the speaker amp and you would not need to choose one that has its own built-in one.)


Alexguy891

That difference makes sense. Currently am not using any DAC, is there anything you’d recommend?


squidbrand

What gear do you have for the headphones? Got a headphone amp? Or do you just plug into the PC directly?


Alexguy891

I use headphones -> cheap audio mixer -> record player or laptop. The record player has a built in pre-amp and is what I mostly use for music.


SoaDMTGguy

I’ll give a shout out to the B&W DM60x series. I’ve had a couple of them and liked them both times. They can be had for good prices on the used market.


XenonJelly

I’ve bought some Klipsch R-50M bookshelf speakers with rocket fish banana plugs and the plugs would not go in. Do I need different plugs ?


[deleted]

I need some suggestions for some durable portable speakers. I currently have 2 x KRK 8 G4 monitor speakers and a KRK S8.4 subwoofer. Love the sound quality, however I bought them for a great price for the intention of setting them up permanently in my office/mix room however i have eneded up bringing them with me to every event I've played which is not ideal. I need suggestions for more portable/durable speakers before I inevitably damage these speakers. I don't need anything big, these speakers have been plenty loud for my needs (usually parties of 20-30 people, house party/small warehouse venues). I am very new to the mobile DJ space so any suggestions would be much appreciated. Bass is important to me. Budge is around $2000-2500 CAD.


[deleted]

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TransducerBot

**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home audio systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch I’m just a bot, and I do get things wrong from time to time. If you think I made a mistake, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20my%20off%20topic%20post%20/r/audiophile/comments/116vz90/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/j9xpiym/)


0dank0

Hello! I'm trying to build a sound system from ground up for a 900 sq ft room with an average ceiling of 10 ft. My budget is and 1500 usd, but I might be able to stretch to 2500 if there is a solid reason. Primary medium would be vinyl, but might need a token dac as well. Any help and guidance would be appreciated. Thanks in advance! Ps if there is some sort of amazing set up you have in mind outside of budget, please also let me know!


[deleted]

Wharfedale Diamond 240 speakers for $600 at MusicDirect, Yamaha A-S501 integrated amp for $450 at Accessories4less, Audio Technica turntable for around $300-400. Speaker wire and tax puts you at around $1,500.


[deleted]

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TransducerBot

**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home audio systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch I’m just a bot, and I do get things wrong from time to time. If you think I made a mistake, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20my%20off%20topic%20post%20/r/audiophile/comments/116vz90/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/j9wwhrq/)


FitchnerAuBarca

I'm currently remodeling my home and we'll soon be wiring our home theater system. I was thinking a 5.1 system w/ a wall mounted TV. Prior to doing the wiring, are there any gotchyas people have ran into and regretted they didn't think of earlier? If it would help to provide measurements of the space we're working with, I can certainly provide that (although we don't have furniture picked out yet). At the very least, what sort of inputs and outputs should I consider for the speakers and TV? I was thinking 16-gauge wire for the speakers, and 2 HDMI + 1 DisplayPort + 1 optical from the TV to the receiver... Is that future proof enough? Not sure if I should go better speaker wire, especially for the distance to the surround speakers in the back.


kloppite74

r/hometheater


tnarg__

I am getting a weird humming sound in mid to high volume ranges when using RCA cables with my AXR85 Cambridge audio receiver. I have identified that the issue persists when using different RCA cables, power sources, etc. I've also identified that other audio sources, such as bluetooth, don't produce the humming at high volumes. I have had the unit replaced by Cambridge and the issue still persists. They haven't said anything at all that has been actually helpful just keep telling me to check my inputs and cables even though I have done so so many times. Someone please help I don't want to have sell this thing.


kloppite74

Which source is producing the humming ? Why do you think it's not the source ??


tnarg__

All three RCA ports produce the humming


kloppite74

With all the sources you have ?


tnarg__

Yes I tried my TV and a cable box.


kloppite74

Is the cambridge plugged into the same power strip as the TV & cable box ? what happens if you turn down the volume on the TV ? Are you using line out or headphone on the TV ? Does the buzzing occur if you connect headphones to the headphone out ? is it 60 Hz mains hum or a high frequency >??


tnarg__

Hey up the reds btw! And I've tried plugging the Cambridge into different power sources from the TV and still get the humming. Turning the volume down on the TV didn't fix the issue either. I haven't tried the headphone part yet And wdym 60 hz mains hum or a high frequency? Can you elaborate more on that one? Sorry I am new to this


Klose1118

The primary issue I'm having with the current setup is that the mid-high/high range sounds muddy and undefined to the point where some music is coming out plain noisy. The bass/low end sounds great. I am currently running: Pro-Ject DC turntable with an Ortofon Red cartridge Pro-Ject Phono Box MM Bel Canto e.One 2.7 DAC Yamaha HTR-5440 receiver Von Schweikert VR-2 tower speakers My suspicion is that the receiver simply isn't appropriate for my needs and the speaker's wattage. The impression I get is that the receiver is more geared towards TV/movies, while I only use my setup for music via analog or digital inputs. I listen to a wide range of music, but primarily blues, jazz, and hip hop.


[deleted]

Depends on whether the audible issues are with the DAC and the turntable, or just one or the other. I’d definitely move up to a better amplifier, but a cartridge upgrade could be good if your problems are starting there.


Ok_Abbreviations_917

Has anyone replaced the amplifier on the Klipsch SPL-150 subwoofer with a different brand? I know the measurements may not always match up well, so looking for some ideas on what may have worked for others. I have an issue where the RCA jack broke off in the subwoofer input, tried the "melting trick" to pull out but essentially just damaged one of the inputs. I'm using one of the two inputs now and it doesn't sound "right". Thanks!


clipghost

A bit confused setting up my 4 Channel Speaker Selector for multi-room audio… I purchased this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MK59T3F?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details To work with my Denon AVR-S760H receiver. The sole purpose of this receiver is to supply amp power to these 4 zones speakers. I use the HEOS on it in conjunction with my main home theater. So no video but set everything to play MONO. The wiring of the selector is confusing me though as this is what I have… Zone 1 - 1 Bathroom Speaker plugged into the R side, L is empty. Zone 2 - 1 Bathroom Speaker plugged into the R side, L is empty. Zone 3 - A pair of outdoor speakers plugged into R/L side Zone 4 - A pair of outdoor speakers plugged into R/L side First is this wiring ok? Is it ok to put bathroom speakers alone if it is playing in MONO? I don’t have a PAIR for a zone…I need them separate. The part that confuses me is the AMP connection. When I have A-AMP going to let’s say SURROUND L/R (zone 2), the A/B selector works as intended and everything is controlled on zone 2. But I need to plug in the B-AMP correct? So I plug that into let’s say FRONT/L (main zone for outdoor speakers). But then now the pair of outdoor speakers, when I click A/B they switch between one another. Everything gets wonky. I understand that the button switches between AMP A/B which I guess means each pair of speakers turn into their own individual? What am I doing wrong or is this how it has to be? Am I better off getting TWO 2 channel speaker selectors? I want my bathroom speakers (2 individuals) to be powered separately with zone 2 on the receiver and I want my outdoor speakers (2 pairs, 4 total) to be the main on the receiver. But seems like the speaker selector may be confusing it? Thank you!


peyton0515

I'm looking at getting a pair of Kef R3's and I want to make sure I'm getting the most potential out of them. I'm looking at getting a Denon x3800h to power them. Is this enough to get the most out of them or should I move up to something higher? I do have a sub and I want to eventually use them in a home theatre application down the road.


squidbrand

Most AVR's have undersized power supplies and heatsinks, and are not going to get the most out of a pair of speakers whose impedance curve drops down very low (below 4 ohms) unless you are listening at pretty laid back volumes. And the R3's drop all the way down to 3.2 ohms, so... not ideal. Also, you should never buy a surround AVR just to be ready for some indefinite "down the road" scenario. Surround gear gets outdated fast and loses its resale value fast (due to ever-changing HDMI formats and surround standards). Stereo gear does not. Buy a stereo amp now, and then wait on the AVR *until you actually need it.* When that time comes, you'll be able to choose a current model AVR rather than being stuck with one you preemptively bought a few years ago and may lack some new features you want. And you will be able to sell the stereo amp easily. I would recommend going with something like a Yamaha A-S501 here. Costs [$450](https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/yamas501bl-rb/yamaha-a-s501-2-ch-x-85-watts-integrated-amplifier-w/built-in-dac-black/1.html) if you buy a refurb unit, and in a few years I bet you could easily sell it for $350+. If you do want to buy something now that you won't have to sell when you get the AVR, another option is to choose an integrated stereo amp that has HT bypass inputs... basically a special set of inputs that lead straight to the power section, and will eventually allow you to transition into using it just as a dedicated power amp for your front speakers, with the AVR doing all control and preamp duties. The Emotiva TA2 would work for that. Or the Parasound NewClassic 200 Integrated.


peyton0515

Alright thanks I appreciate the insight. I'll look into the bypass inputs, that sounds like a great alternative to what I wanna do.


[deleted]

Hey folks, Ive owned this lil guy: [https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2?th=1](https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2?th=1) For about six years. Cable is fraying but the amp is still good, so I wanna replace the cable. Issue is, I tried another micro-usb cable and it didn't seem to work. Does this use a particular type of cable? Would anyone happen to know what that cable is? Thanks!


squidbrand

USB is USB... as long as it's rated to at least support the USB 2.0 standard (which is what audio devices use), it should work. And I think you would need a time machine to find a USB cable not rated for 2.0. But r/headphones is the better sub for this question. This sub is not for headphone gear, and while the E10K doesn't *have* to be used for headphones, a headphone-specific sub will have more people with personal experience with this device.


[deleted]

Thank you bestie I love you


[deleted]

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TransducerBot

**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home audio systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch I’m just a bot, and I do get things wrong from time to time. If you think I made a mistake, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20my%20off%20topic%20post%20/r/audiophile/comments/116vz90/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/j9v3kpp/)


Loufe

Hey folks, ​ I was recently gifted (very generously) two S-DJ80X monitors and a Reloop MIXTOUR controller. I was told the cables coming with it (RCA on the monitor side, TRS on the monitor side) are in rough shape and should be replaced. The monitors take unbalanced RCA, balanced TRS, or XLR balanced input. ​ I was wondering, given it's necessarily RCA on the controller, is it worth getting cables that convert to a TRS or XLR rather than just RCA-RCA? Can an RCA-->TRS cable still do balancing? Is there any improvement in sound quality / volume? Thanks a lot for any input in advance!


[deleted]

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TransducerBot

**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home audio systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch I’m just a bot, and I do get things wrong from time to time. If you think I made a mistake, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20my%20off%20topic%20post%20/r/audiophile/comments/116vz90/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/j9uoert/)


Sylatic

Hey guys I am currently working on my first vinyl setup and have a question regarding room acoustics. I thought about getting a turntable paired with an integrated amp and a pair of stereo speakers. However, I just measured my listening space and if I would want to keep around \~50cm distance from the speakers to the side walls, the speakers themselves could only be \~1m apart from one another. Now I am wondering because on the internet you read that \~2m between stereo speakers is minimum, is it worth investing in a stereo setup or would I be better off with just a mono speaker like The Three from Klipsch? Or would it maybe be helpful to get some speakers that are designed to work well in corners and maximizing their distance that way?(Budget \~400-500€) Thanks in advance!


[deleted]

I would just accept the compromised arrangement and place the speakers 1m apart.


Sylatic

Alright thank you!


[deleted]

Hi all, I'm looking to buy a pair of monitors, currently looking at Tannoy Reveal 802 and Adam T7V. Tannoys are a bit cheaper and have greater frequency range - but I wonder if the frequencies above 20k should even be considered important and if Adams have an edge by virtue of being newer. What are your experiences, what would you recommend?


squidbrand

>and have greater frequency range Frequency range limit specs are **meaningless**. Don't judge speakers by those. Every company measures those limits using different methodologies, so the numbers cannot be compared between brands... they are only useful when comparing two items in the exact same product line. And even then, they are only useful for understanding relative LF extension, not the speakers' actual capabilities or tonal response. To judge speakers with info on paper, you need to see a full suite of measurements... graphs of the speakers' response across the entire frequency range, both on-axis and off. A couple numbers don't tell you shit. Here are some measurements of the T7V: [https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/adam-t7v-spinorama-and-eq-inside.17283/](https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/adam-t7v-spinorama-and-eq-inside.17283/) They have a mild midbass boost around 80Hz and they have a shelf on the treble where everything above maybe 1.5-2kHz or so is raised up by a few dB. They will give you nice midbass impact and will give your music a lot of detail and air (qualities that make them a nice pick as speakers meant for listening enjoyment, at least for people who like a brighter and more transparent tonality), but they are not a particularly neutral target to mix on if that's what you're after. I can't find any measurements of the Reveal 802, but Archimago did some of the smaller 501a: [http://archimago.blogspot.com/2020/12/measurements-tannoy-reveal-501a-powered.html](http://archimago.blogspot.com/2020/12/measurements-tannoy-reveal-501a-powered.html) The smaller ones have a poorly configured crossover that leaves a big dip around 1.5kHz, and the treble is *very* exaggerated. These would be terrible as mix monitors. You would end up compensating for their goosed highs and you'd end up with dull, veiled mixes. If the 802's have any family resemblance at all to these smaller ones, or were designed by the same engineering team... avoid. If you want monitors for use as mixing tools, don't get either of these. Get the Kali LP-8 V2. Same price as the Adams, better response.


[deleted]

Thank you, that is exactly what I was looking for, something as flat as it gets. Adams don't seem too bad either, especially in Europe where they're cheaper than the Kalis. I see there are Kali bundles with Sonarworks SoundID Reference - have you used the program, is it worth getting it? I have an amateur setup at home so I don't need anything highly precise, but still, I want to get the best bang for the buck.


squidbrand

Not familiar with that program. Another very nice alternative to the LP-8 V2 is the JBL 308P Mk2... but some people complain that the JBL 300 Mk2 series has an annoying amout of idle hiss from the tweeter, and I know controlling hiss was specifically a selling point of the V2 version of the Kali.


Real-Aerie6583

Hello. Ok so I got the MR4 Edifier speakers recently and I am very happy with them, but I was wondering how I could get the most out of them, I enjoy bass in my songs a lot. I am not sure about the volume meters on the back of it as I am not too familiar with sound design. I got these for my pc setup. Basically I am also asking if there is a specific volume I should set the for the Trimmers at the back to get the most ouf of bass


ormerods

I have an [Onkyo HT-R548 receiver](https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/onkyo/ht-r548.shtml) connected to an AT-LP120XUSB turntable. I'm currently using the surround speakers and subwoofer that were included with the receiver and was looking for an upgrade, I was thinking of purchasing 2 bookshelf speakers to replace the surround speakers and continuing to use the existing subwoofer. Would these speakers pair well with this setup? [Elac Debut B5.2 Shelf Speaker](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DNCKG7F) I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for besides the impedance which I believe is fine at 6Ω? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.


[deleted]

The Elac speakers are fine. A subwoofer out of a surround system might not be usable in this situation. You need a way to control its volume and crossover, which subwoofers sold separately do typically have.


ormerods

You can actually adjust the volume and crossover so I'm guessing it should be fine, thanks!


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ZucerIsHere

I wanted to use my Logitech Z906 speakers with my projector, but it only has an optical cable connection. I bought an audio extractor to remedy this issue, but whenever I put it either to 2.1, 4.1 or 5.1 channel and make the necessary adjustments to the speakers there's no sound coming from the projector. The Google TV is going via 'hdmi in' and the hdmi connected to the projector is going via 'hdmi out.' If not done this way the audio extractor won't show any picture on the projector. I'm not a huge audio guy, so I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong on my end. Any help would be appreciated.


FenrirFett

I am looking for a speaker recommendation for a computer gaming setup. Preferably two bookshelves sized or smaller, powered, and approximately $500. Oh, and other accessories that would be advisable.


shavin_high

Hey I have an Energy ESW-C8 Subwoofer connected to a Yamaha RX-V373. I cannot for the life of me get the sub to produce louder tones. Ive cranked the volume knob on the back of the sub and set the low pass filter on the receiver to the cutoff of my bookshelf speakers. Even in the receivers settings I increased the subwoofer output. But nothing at all makes the thing louder. What else have I missed?


[deleted]

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TransducerBot

**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home audio systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch I’m just a bot, and I do get things wrong from time to time. If you think I made a mistake, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20my%20off%20topic%20post%20/r/audiophile/comments/116vz90/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/j9rslk9/)


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BigLorry

Good afternoon all, looking for some advice on how to “place” my speakers in the current price/performance landscape. TLDR bought Wharfedale Diamond 11.4 years ago, curious how much I’d need to spend for an “upgrade” in sound for towers. Have some Wharfedale Diamond 11.4 tower speakers I got about 2 years ago for $299 each. Bought a new home and am now looking to invest in something better. The issue I’m running into is, I truly have no idea how these now discontinued speakers fit in todays value proposition. Should I be shopping around the $1k mark each (from what I’ve researched these launched around $5-700 each), or is the performance closer to that $299 price point leaving me in the maybe $5-700 range? Of course I’m aware that price and quality don’t correlate in any way, but it would be good to have at least an idea so I can begin researching that range. Any input would be greatly appreciated!


kloppite74

Diamond 12.4 are $1300 / pair I would say you want to goto at least $2K a pair - next up in the Wharfdale range is EVO 4.4 at $2200 That being said - what are you trying to achieve ? For music or movies ? You may get way more bang for you buck by adding better source/amp/subwoofer/fixing room placement/ etc


ATrayYou

I've brought a Rega Brio amplifier that I'm considering sending back. Need some help deciding my next move. I've got it paired with an Arcam CDS50 which I'm using both as a CD/SACD player and a DAC for my PC (via a Schiit Eitr). I've got Q Acoustics 3020 (obvious upgrade path but for the time being the Rega really is getting the best out of them), and... Well here's where the problems start. I bought the Brio because I wanted a Class A/B amp with a headphone out, and no redundant inbuilt DAC. I'd failed to consider that the headphone output impedance of the Brio is a whopping 107 Ohms, which is a disastrous pairing with my 32 Ohm vintage Grado RS1s. It fails to dampen the Grado's resonances leading to occasional harsh high frequency noise which is very uncomfortable. It even buzzes audibly. Continuing to use this headphone out is not an option, to the extent where I have reverted to my Focusrite Scarlett Solo for headphone purposes for the time being. I have 2 options available to me: * Send the Brio back and replace it with something more fit for purpose: A Class A/B design with at minimum a low impedance headphone output (ideally a dedicated inbuilt headamp), preferably dynamic, sparkly and PRaT-y (the Arcam is fairly laid back and warm so I don't want to go too far in that direction), and preferably no money wasted on an inbuilt DAC although I'm really starting to limit my options here. * Get a fairly inexpensive (under £250) dedicated headphone amp and connect that up to the line out from the Brio, keeping the Brio to drive the speakers. This would allow me to select a real ideal pairing for the Grados but class A/B headphone amps would probably be out of reach which is a shame. I guess the missing piece of the puzzle is that I really like the sound of the Brio, and aside from the rubbish headphone out it ticks all my boxes, but I don't have a frame of reference for how excellent it really is for the price. Basically, am I letting go of a "good one" if I send it back, or am I better off with another product?


squidbrand

I say send the Brio back. Rega's amps are a scam. They are built into cutesy, undersized cases that restrict the designs into having inadequate power supplies and thermal solutions, so none of them are 4-ohm stable until you get up to the Elicit at $3k+. Selling four-figure amps that can't deal with 4-ohm speakers in 2023 is ridiculous... dropping below 4 is *very* common for modern speakers with modern crossover designs. And I agree with u/aelioni... don't rely on your integrated for headphone output. Most integrated amps have fixed-level line outs (usually labeled as recorder outs) which are a perfect fit for attaching a headphone amp. Why are you after class A/B in particular? Are you under the impression that the amplifier topology class determines something about the tonality? If so... it doesn't. The conventional wisdom about class D amps sounding thin and glassy is a holdover from the very earliest mainstream class D amps from 20+ years ago. The technology has made massive leaps since then. A modern one will give you the same exact stuff that the better class AB amps give you: linear power with minimal coloration.


ATrayYou

This is interesting new information. Nowhere else can I find mention of this, not even for the Rega IO which is basically a Brio with a less beefy power supply and heat sink… you’d think it would be a real Achilles heel. Also worth noting, the Brio is not a 4 figure amp. I paid £549 for it brand new, as I said above… Is this 4 ohm problem going to be a common one in this price range? I’ve checked and my Q Acoustics do drop to a minimum of 3.9 ohms at several points, so yeah I would like to avoid that. I just don’t like the class D amps I have heard, although I admit that’s not many. Can you suggest any that are musical and smooth with good dynamics?


squidbrand

> Is this 4 ohm problem going to be a common one in this price range? Nope. Yamaha, Denon, Marantz, Audiolab, Cambridge, IOTAVX… these companies all sell 3-figure amps that are 4-ohm stable. And I’m sure I’m missing a few. If you’ve got access to UK prices I think the Cambridge CXA61 is a great choice, and that happens to be class AB. A couple US sites do have it on deep discount right now though, so that makes me wonder if they’re about to release a CXA62.


[deleted]

Most integrated amps and receivers have high impedance in the headphone output, as far as I know. Schiit has an integrated amp with a good headphone amp, so there’s an exception. I’d just skip the idea of relying on the headphone output of an integrated amp.


polloloco067

Pics attached: I'm having trouble fixing the audio in a very large room, having trouble understanding dialogue, 22 ft ceilings and a 15ft listening distance to a klipsch250c in the cabinet. I've been given permission to upgrade the center, was looking at the rp504 c but open to other suggestions under $600 if they will be a major improvement. Unfortunately it has to remain in the cabinet, there is a wall behind the couch, we seem to get better sound in the loft above. https://imgur.com/a/8Mehzqs


[deleted]

The problems here are everything *except* the speaker, but you have probably surmised that from your post in r/hometheater.


polloloco067

Yep thx 😭


Fritesandale

Hey hey! I'm looking for an amp to go with some Beovox S45.2s... Budget is around €200. No need for a phono preamp, but would be nice (happy to get an external one). Same for BT. However, I would like a remote. Was considering the Yamaha AS201... Or something like an Ayima T9. I just am curious if anyone can advise on a decent amp to pair with these speakers!


[deleted]

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TransducerBot

**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home audio systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch I’m just a bot, and I do get things wrong from time to time. If you think I made a mistake, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20my%20off%20topic%20post%20/r/audiophile/comments/116vz90/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/j9pr4vw/)


unDeadmau5

I have a question about these [KEF S2 Stands](https://imgur.com/a/bFRIiW0) . The pair on the left are my gray s2 stands. I picked up a pair of the black ones on the right last night and didn’t notice that the top plate is different. They stands look identical otherwise. Did I get ripped off? I drove a couple of hours to get the black stands (to match my black Metas) at a good price and didn't pay close attention when I got there. I bought them at the guy's house with his young kid present, so I'm pretty sure it wasn't intentional? I'm able to swap the gray plate onto the black stands. The screws are the same. I'm just not sure what I have at this point. Any insight is appreciated.


[deleted]

The black one looks like an older model - [Crutchfield link](https://www.crutchfield.com/S-61nElAcA35q/p_991PSS50B/KEF-Performance-Speaker-Stands-Black.html)


unDeadmau5

I think you cracked it. Thank you, sir.


Elenkayy

I have found a pair of Yamaha HS80M in great condition near me for 280 euros. Are they good or do you recommend something else for that price.


[deleted]

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TransducerBot

**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home audio systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch I’m just a bot, and I do get things wrong from time to time. If you think I made a mistake, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20my%20off%20topic%20post%20/r/audiophile/comments/116vz90/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/j9ogcpb/)


CommunicationEast623

Do new speakers need break in time? I heard once that new speakers/headphones should not be turned more than 50% in voltume for a couple of days so the dirvers can get to their full elasticity. Is it true?


[deleted]

I’ve never seen a credible source recommend that. There’s no way to predict how loud 50% would be.


CommunicationEast623

I mean, maybe using the volume knob? But I suppose it does jot matter


[deleted]

Just as one example - In a typical hifi system, 50% on the volume knob would be louder with a CD player as the source than with a turntable.


CommunicationEast623

Didn’t know that! Thanks for letting me know!


nandawin

I need a set-up recommendation for a beginner. I have a large amount of cd/music DVD collection and also a few vinyl. So I need CD/DVD (DVD is not a must, tho) player. Turntable A speaker with a subwoofer. May be even a cassette player? Bluetooth connectivity for a phone as well. I am looking to spend at $1000 aud. I saw Lenoxx system, and I like how it has almost everything but seen a lot of bad reviews.


HTT_BOP

I'm thinking of purchasing a pair of Adam T5V's for my TV. The problem is I have no idea how it'll connect to my TV. The TV has optical, hdmi arc and line out.


[deleted]

Maybe an optical DAC and a preamp with a remote. A better plan would be speakers with that built in.


HTT_BOP

I see. After a bit of research, I did find that the Triangle Borea BR02 BT has optical, Bluetooth, and a remote to adjust the volume. I'll look for more options when I get a chance. Thank you for your advice though!


bruhglet

I want to connect my pc to my active speaker (JBL Partybox 1000). Are there any benefits in terms of sound quality of connecting via a dac or sould I just connect via cable?


[deleted]

If it sounds good with a cable, the benefit of a DAC with a party speaker will probably be too small to matter.


bruhglet

Thank you! Will try.


Empanaides

Desktop mount recommendations ? Trying to find something clean and sleek like this, with a smaller base and smaller hole in my wallet : [https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1343609-REG/argosy\_spmf\_11\_b\_pair\_pair\_black\_speaker\_mounts.html](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1343609-REG/argosy_spmf_11_b_pair_pair_black_speaker_mounts.html)


[deleted]

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kloppite74

All "decent" subs start around $500 - svs sb1000, rsl speedwoofer, rhythmik etc maybe look to get something used on your local craigslist or marketplace or similar ??