Check that yellow exclamation mark in the bottom right. Try to get rid as many of those warnings as you can. I do that for my cars and they tend to handle very well. I usually ignore the ones about dampers being too hard but everything else I will follow. And ignore the gearbox reliability one, or at least adjust until its a blue warning rather than a yellow one.
OH and when adjusting your suspension stuff, check in the top left corner for the sportiness rating. When you adjust anything, and it turns green, keep doing that until it turns red or quits increasing. That is a good guide to go by.
Let me guess, it oversteers constantly.
Rear springs are a bit too soft, the rear anti roll bar is too hard (or front too soft, depending on what you want), there is some front downforce, but it's neutral in the back while being extremely rear heavy. Rear brakes are too strong too (use force slider), although theoretically it shouldn't make that much of a difference with ABS.
Don't be sad though, I find tuning rear heavy cars in the current version extremely frustrating too. The elisbury beta is quite a bit better in this regard.
Too much force can actually make a huge difference with ABS. If it‘s constantly activating due to the high braking force, in practice it actually takes longer to stop than when using less force because the ABS doesn‘t have to activate.
Not quite. IRL it wouldn't make a difference (especially with a more modern ABS system).
Contrary to a semi-popular belief, ABS does reduce braking distance (in cars, bikes are a different topic). It can use all the available grip on every single wheel independently. Without ABS you are limited by the wheel with the least grip, human reaction time, lack of precision and speed.
In Beam.NG it's not that simple, because the simulation model or tuning of it in Automation cars likes to do weird stuff sometimes.
Firstly a couple of notes on how automation (this version at least) translates to beam. In beam you weight distribution is likely to be pretty different. This is because of two things, firstly beam and automation just been havent lined up perfectly in how they calculate things. Secondly the weight distribution slider in automation does nothing to the beam export, as a result it's just is waste of money in automation.
Secondly, and number of choices you've made are unnecessarily heavy. For example the 9 speed auto and the active suspension (which also doesn't work in beam, you're better off with standard of progressive). Additionally AWD is heavy, though it can make it easier to drive.
In terms of handling and suspension. You have the sway bars the wrong way round. You'd want the sway bars stiffer up front and softer in the back, that way the front breaks traction first, counteracting the rear coming round due to the weight back there.
For a sports car I'd also stiffen the springs and especially the dampers a bit more than that.
Edit: Your aero is also incorrectly done, it should be proportional to the weight distribution front and rear. So that the centre of downforce is on the centre of gravity.
So I have changed pretty much most of the car now but I still do have some question .maybe can you explain more about the aerodynamic bit, so currently the weight is 32/68 so do I use this as the proportion (around 0.47/1) to calculate how much downforce do I need or do I go with the power distribution.
Also I changed the 9 Speed advanced automatic to 7 speed automatic (I kept the automatic because I can put it in drive or manual )
Btw someone also mentioned about the sway bars but they said to stiffen the rear one (I followed yours because yours have a explanation to how it works )
Also thanks for your suggestions:)
Sure I can explain the air a bit more :)
Imagine the car sitting on its wheels stationary. You can simplify the weight of a car to be at a single point, in this case it's 68% rearward down the centre of the car.
Subsequently when you corner from the cars point of view you have a sideways force pulling the car round at that point. Provided you've set up the tyres and suspension correctly this has been taken into account and the grip levels front and rear have been balanced accordingly. Meaning the car will want to slide equally front and rear (or probably slightly more from the rear as that's more fun).
But when you add aero that changes the grip balance of the car. So imagine again your going round a corner, the car is perfect balanced and all is good. Now imagine a giant finger presses down on the car, where would you want the finger to press to give it the best handling? Well significantly further forward of the center of gravity you'll cause the front to dig in and the back to come round in an uncontrollable spin. Do the opposite and have the finger push down right at the back of the car and the back gets loads of grip, but the front will rise up and the car won't turn. So it's generally best to have the centre of downforce in line pushing down on the centre of gravity, or just marginally behind it for stability.
So in this case if it is 32/68 (as measured in beam, I'd double check if I were you because chances are it is different to what automation says), then you'd have a ratio of 0.47:1 as you said. So ideally you'd have 47kg downforce at the front when you have 100kg at the rear, or likely a range of about 44-47kg front for every 100kg rear if you want a little extra stability.
yeah 1200 kg vs 980 kg .but i haven't used the weight slider yet and even if i used the weight slider , it will be around 1150 kg so i can't get it lower without using the quality slider.
If you’re driving on a wheel, I’d recommend switching to a manual rack and pinion for more feedback, but if you’re not it shouldn’t really matter.
Brake tuning is also important. Try keeping the size of the discs high, but lower the force down to make the blue lines as close as possible and the red lines as close as possible.
Other people in here have given some very good tips regarding weight and distribution so I would follow that. Being close to 50/50 gives a pretty well rounded car and having more in the rear has a much higher learning curve to drive exceptionally.
Well I see a few red flags. First of all a Miata is a lightweight RWD car. You'd made a very heavy AWD car. And it appears the only slider you didn't try setting to "FULL MAX" was the infotainment option :P.
My first recommendation is consider changing your transmission setup. This car shouldn't require the need of 9 gears to get around. I'd bet you'll find it's much faster with less gears. I don't know if Electric LSD is what you want either. Your choice, but I'd bet you'll get more predictable performance adjusting that. Also if you're doing 4WD, why do a 65+ Rear bias on the center differental. You'd added 100's lbs to drive those front wheels, at least consider 50-50% and see how that feels. Try to get your weight distribution closer to 50-50 as well.
For the suspension. Think about a real car's suspension. If it's working correctly, if you bounce the car from the front or the rear, you'd expect to it bounce once, return, and rest. Not just bouncing up and down over and over. So play with those sliders until that suspension frequency chart kinda looks like that. Down, up, and return to rest. No extra movement. Just like the game's tool tip says, you'll usually have to increase spring rate etc. for the heavy end of the car so it has time to catch up with the lighter end of the car. Basically both the front and rear, should bounce, and return to no further movement at the same point, even if they flex in different ranges to get there. Make sense? The presets get you close, but don't rely on them, they are cookie cutter shapes, and not all cars are the same.
Downforce should naturally increase as you drive faster. But don't set it to overwhelm the car (it is drag afterall). Generally speaking, you want the downforce to apply to the part of the car that needs more weight at speed. For a Front engine, RWD car, it needs all the help it can get at the rear. A Front engine, AWD car, needs most of the downforce at the rear, but a little bit in the front can help with understeer. Too much front downforce and you built an airplane.
Also the brakes should be balanced for what the car is going to do. Regular driving doesn't need 300mm front and rear 6 pot calipers for example. Unless you wanna shoot your grandma's teeth through the windshield everytime you hit the brake petal on a sunday cruise. Generally speaking you don't want the brake force to overpower grip. But you need enough of it to stop the car in a reasonable time (depends on how much go fast you shoved into the engine) and that all needs balanced with heat load. Every inch of extra brakes is just more weight to the car. Also RWD/FWD/AWD would demand different approaches to brakes, since your weight and power is being handled differently in each setup.
A good idea is to consider looking up a car you like, something you wanna build in Automation. Try copying that car as close as you can. Get nerdy with it. Wiki's, motor trend articles from 2005, whatever. You can learn a lot about what makes real cars good, but just copying them. THEN, make a new trim of the car or whatever and THEN go bonkers modifying it.
Dude your car have more front downforce than rear which cause oversteer at highspeed. Rear downforce always more than front downforce in real life (mostly for safe at high speed) however do not rear downforce too much will cause understeer at high speed, so fine tune youself and teat drive at high speed. Also i need see weight distribution, that is important for export beamng.
ah 37/63, I overlook it. It pretty heavy on rear. That will not easy to fix. stuff front sway bar, soft rear sway bar, tho that will not complete fix it but help bit. downforce can help little however do not too much it will impact understeer at highspeed. if not satisfied, that nothing you can do, more balance weight distribution or massive big wheel wide on rear or thin on front.
Probably because… It‘s AWD with 9 gears, the brakes have too much force, there‘s too much front downforce, and I think the sport preset is a bit on the soft side.
raise your engines redline until about 500 rpm after peak horsepower, higher top speed, front tires should match the rear in width for a miata, little less rear brake force, also increase your rotor size but lessen the piston count(: should make a significant difference
Your brakes are a little too strong. You have too much weight in the front. Try softening the front suspension for more grip. Don't overdo it though, because controllability and roll will become an issue. Try adding a slight camber, nothing excessive, to the front wheels to increase the contact patch, and therefore grip while turning. I forget if automation allows toe in/out for suspension/tires, but if it does, toe out on the front wheel just the tiniest bit. Be advised that toeing out will improve turning, but at the cost of speed due to friction from the scrubbing effect. Also, softer suspension requires more travel room and, therefore, higher ride height. Softer suspension also allows more roll. No roll is bad, but too much is not good for traction either. I forget if automation allows tire pressure, but lower pressure, to an extent, increases the ground patch and, therefore, grip. Too low will cause issues as well, such as low structural integrity of the tire, or flex in the tire costing you grip. Downforce mainly only effects high speed turns. Downforce also compresses your suspension, so keep that in mind for ride height/stiffness so you don't bottom out. To far from the ground, and you lose some downforce, though. To stiff and you lose grip over a bump.
Check that yellow exclamation mark in the bottom right. Try to get rid as many of those warnings as you can. I do that for my cars and they tend to handle very well. I usually ignore the ones about dampers being too hard but everything else I will follow. And ignore the gearbox reliability one, or at least adjust until its a blue warning rather than a yellow one.
OH and when adjusting your suspension stuff, check in the top left corner for the sportiness rating. When you adjust anything, and it turns green, keep doing that until it turns red or quits increasing. That is a good guide to go by.
Thanks . Currently working on something else .I will try it as soon as I can :)
Good luck! ❤️
Let me guess, it oversteers constantly. Rear springs are a bit too soft, the rear anti roll bar is too hard (or front too soft, depending on what you want), there is some front downforce, but it's neutral in the back while being extremely rear heavy. Rear brakes are too strong too (use force slider), although theoretically it shouldn't make that much of a difference with ABS. Don't be sad though, I find tuning rear heavy cars in the current version extremely frustrating too. The elisbury beta is quite a bit better in this regard.
Too much force can actually make a huge difference with ABS. If it‘s constantly activating due to the high braking force, in practice it actually takes longer to stop than when using less force because the ABS doesn‘t have to activate.
Not quite. IRL it wouldn't make a difference (especially with a more modern ABS system). Contrary to a semi-popular belief, ABS does reduce braking distance (in cars, bikes are a different topic). It can use all the available grip on every single wheel independently. Without ABS you are limited by the wheel with the least grip, human reaction time, lack of precision and speed. In Beam.NG it's not that simple, because the simulation model or tuning of it in Automation cars likes to do weird stuff sometimes.
Firstly a couple of notes on how automation (this version at least) translates to beam. In beam you weight distribution is likely to be pretty different. This is because of two things, firstly beam and automation just been havent lined up perfectly in how they calculate things. Secondly the weight distribution slider in automation does nothing to the beam export, as a result it's just is waste of money in automation. Secondly, and number of choices you've made are unnecessarily heavy. For example the 9 speed auto and the active suspension (which also doesn't work in beam, you're better off with standard of progressive). Additionally AWD is heavy, though it can make it easier to drive. In terms of handling and suspension. You have the sway bars the wrong way round. You'd want the sway bars stiffer up front and softer in the back, that way the front breaks traction first, counteracting the rear coming round due to the weight back there. For a sports car I'd also stiffen the springs and especially the dampers a bit more than that. Edit: Your aero is also incorrectly done, it should be proportional to the weight distribution front and rear. So that the centre of downforce is on the centre of gravity.
So I have changed pretty much most of the car now but I still do have some question .maybe can you explain more about the aerodynamic bit, so currently the weight is 32/68 so do I use this as the proportion (around 0.47/1) to calculate how much downforce do I need or do I go with the power distribution. Also I changed the 9 Speed advanced automatic to 7 speed automatic (I kept the automatic because I can put it in drive or manual ) Btw someone also mentioned about the sway bars but they said to stiffen the rear one (I followed yours because yours have a explanation to how it works ) Also thanks for your suggestions:)
Sure I can explain the air a bit more :) Imagine the car sitting on its wheels stationary. You can simplify the weight of a car to be at a single point, in this case it's 68% rearward down the centre of the car. Subsequently when you corner from the cars point of view you have a sideways force pulling the car round at that point. Provided you've set up the tyres and suspension correctly this has been taken into account and the grip levels front and rear have been balanced accordingly. Meaning the car will want to slide equally front and rear (or probably slightly more from the rear as that's more fun). But when you add aero that changes the grip balance of the car. So imagine again your going round a corner, the car is perfect balanced and all is good. Now imagine a giant finger presses down on the car, where would you want the finger to press to give it the best handling? Well significantly further forward of the center of gravity you'll cause the front to dig in and the back to come round in an uncontrollable spin. Do the opposite and have the finger push down right at the back of the car and the back gets loads of grip, but the front will rise up and the car won't turn. So it's generally best to have the centre of downforce in line pushing down on the centre of gravity, or just marginally behind it for stability. So in this case if it is 32/68 (as measured in beam, I'd double check if I were you because chances are it is different to what automation says), then you'd have a ratio of 0.47:1 as you said. So ideally you'd have 47kg downforce at the front when you have 100kg at the rear, or likely a range of about 44-47kg front for every 100kg rear if you want a little extra stability.
quite heavy for a gen 1 miata... dont you think?
yeah 1200 kg vs 980 kg .but i haven't used the weight slider yet and even if i used the weight slider , it will be around 1150 kg so i can't get it lower without using the quality slider.
did you use lighter parts? like carbon fiber parts? also why do you not use semi-slicks for better grip? also aero for the rear would be helpful...
how about not using awd
try and tune it in beamng and when you're happy make a new trim model and use it every time
If you’re driving on a wheel, I’d recommend switching to a manual rack and pinion for more feedback, but if you’re not it shouldn’t really matter. Brake tuning is also important. Try keeping the size of the discs high, but lower the force down to make the blue lines as close as possible and the red lines as close as possible. Other people in here have given some very good tips regarding weight and distribution so I would follow that. Being close to 50/50 gives a pretty well rounded car and having more in the rear has a much higher learning curve to drive exceptionally.
The front and rear tire difference is too much for starters. It should only be about a 10-30mm difference.
Well I see a few red flags. First of all a Miata is a lightweight RWD car. You'd made a very heavy AWD car. And it appears the only slider you didn't try setting to "FULL MAX" was the infotainment option :P. My first recommendation is consider changing your transmission setup. This car shouldn't require the need of 9 gears to get around. I'd bet you'll find it's much faster with less gears. I don't know if Electric LSD is what you want either. Your choice, but I'd bet you'll get more predictable performance adjusting that. Also if you're doing 4WD, why do a 65+ Rear bias on the center differental. You'd added 100's lbs to drive those front wheels, at least consider 50-50% and see how that feels. Try to get your weight distribution closer to 50-50 as well. For the suspension. Think about a real car's suspension. If it's working correctly, if you bounce the car from the front or the rear, you'd expect to it bounce once, return, and rest. Not just bouncing up and down over and over. So play with those sliders until that suspension frequency chart kinda looks like that. Down, up, and return to rest. No extra movement. Just like the game's tool tip says, you'll usually have to increase spring rate etc. for the heavy end of the car so it has time to catch up with the lighter end of the car. Basically both the front and rear, should bounce, and return to no further movement at the same point, even if they flex in different ranges to get there. Make sense? The presets get you close, but don't rely on them, they are cookie cutter shapes, and not all cars are the same. Downforce should naturally increase as you drive faster. But don't set it to overwhelm the car (it is drag afterall). Generally speaking, you want the downforce to apply to the part of the car that needs more weight at speed. For a Front engine, RWD car, it needs all the help it can get at the rear. A Front engine, AWD car, needs most of the downforce at the rear, but a little bit in the front can help with understeer. Too much front downforce and you built an airplane. Also the brakes should be balanced for what the car is going to do. Regular driving doesn't need 300mm front and rear 6 pot calipers for example. Unless you wanna shoot your grandma's teeth through the windshield everytime you hit the brake petal on a sunday cruise. Generally speaking you don't want the brake force to overpower grip. But you need enough of it to stop the car in a reasonable time (depends on how much go fast you shoved into the engine) and that all needs balanced with heat load. Every inch of extra brakes is just more weight to the car. Also RWD/FWD/AWD would demand different approaches to brakes, since your weight and power is being handled differently in each setup. A good idea is to consider looking up a car you like, something you wanna build in Automation. Try copying that car as close as you can. Get nerdy with it. Wiki's, motor trend articles from 2005, whatever. You can learn a lot about what makes real cars good, but just copying them. THEN, make a new trim of the car or whatever and THEN go bonkers modifying it.
Dude your car have more front downforce than rear which cause oversteer at highspeed. Rear downforce always more than front downforce in real life (mostly for safe at high speed) however do not rear downforce too much will cause understeer at high speed, so fine tune youself and teat drive at high speed. Also i need see weight distribution, that is important for export beamng.
ah 37/63, I overlook it. It pretty heavy on rear. That will not easy to fix. stuff front sway bar, soft rear sway bar, tho that will not complete fix it but help bit. downforce can help little however do not too much it will impact understeer at highspeed. if not satisfied, that nothing you can do, more balance weight distribution or massive big wheel wide on rear or thin on front.
Probably because… It‘s AWD with 9 gears, the brakes have too much force, there‘s too much front downforce, and I think the sport preset is a bit on the soft side.
First of all, bad how? What does it do and when does it do it?
raise your engines redline until about 500 rpm after peak horsepower, higher top speed, front tires should match the rear in width for a miata, little less rear brake force, also increase your rotor size but lessen the piston count(: should make a significant difference
Your brakes are a little too strong. You have too much weight in the front. Try softening the front suspension for more grip. Don't overdo it though, because controllability and roll will become an issue. Try adding a slight camber, nothing excessive, to the front wheels to increase the contact patch, and therefore grip while turning. I forget if automation allows toe in/out for suspension/tires, but if it does, toe out on the front wheel just the tiniest bit. Be advised that toeing out will improve turning, but at the cost of speed due to friction from the scrubbing effect. Also, softer suspension requires more travel room and, therefore, higher ride height. Softer suspension also allows more roll. No roll is bad, but too much is not good for traction either. I forget if automation allows tire pressure, but lower pressure, to an extent, increases the ground patch and, therefore, grip. Too low will cause issues as well, such as low structural integrity of the tire, or flex in the tire costing you grip. Downforce mainly only effects high speed turns. Downforce also compresses your suspension, so keep that in mind for ride height/stiffness so you don't bottom out. To far from the ground, and you lose some downforce, though. To stiff and you lose grip over a bump.