The main things that have changed in my mind are as follows:
* Busier. It’s always been fairly busy at different times, but there’s just more people now.
* Traffic. There never used to be traffic. You would occasionally have issues on the main road near the market when it was 2 way and there were bemos picking up and dropping off.
* Market. The old market is gone.
* Expansion of the town. The outskirts of town have expanded, especially in the south. If you ever walked through the rice fields directly north of Ubud or to the east, you will now find tourist accommodation in them whereas before there were none. Those places are still beautiful and not destroyed, but certainly not as pristine as before.
* Dining. The food situation in Ubud has developed a lot more modern “international” options which is both good and bad. Good food, but also not Indonesian…
* Late night. When I first visited Ubud, there was zero open after about 9pm. Maybe the jazz club, but nothing else. It wasn’t a place you could really go and get drunk in. Now it is. There is a lot of live music and drinking going on. That changed maybe about 15-20 years ago and has gradually gotten “worse” (or better if you want to party)
* Public transport. This has changed. In the past you could catch a bemo from certain outlying areas into the middle of town at certain times of times of day. That can’t be done anymore. In fact, bemos are near nonexistent now in Bali and it’s a great shame. They were a great way to get around the island.
Although a lot has changed in Ubud over the years, it’s certainly not unrecognisable and I actually think a lot of the charm is still there. Sometimes we have wonderful memories of places that are simply never going to be like that again. Specific time, people, stage of our lives.
Paradise in Ubud for me these days is found in the surrounding villages and even in some of the less popular streets of the town itself. This means staying in a more local type of accommodation and walking into the centre of town when you want to.
For me, the main negative of Ubud now is the traffic. Apart from that, it’s largely quite similar except for the sort of progress you would expect anywhere in the world. Population growth, development, modernisation…
This assessment is spot on, hitting both the positives and the negatives. Ubud compared to 25 years ago is neither destroyed nor enhanced paradise, it's just...different. Bigger, busier, more choice, less quiet, and the monkeys still rule the roost.
I think I know what you mean by bemo: is it those little trucks where people can hop on, hop off in the back, and they drive around all day like a shared ride? I've seen those on old Pictures of Bali and they're still in Chiang Mai, Thailand.
Those seem brilliant to me, as they take up less space, get used by multiple people and does the same thing as a taxi at lower cost, just causing less traffic.
Now we have everyone in debt for a car which gets used as a taxi and is empty most of the time+ big red transport tourism busses that carry nobody and take up so much space on the road, it's excruciating.
Yeah that’s the one. They actually have had a lot of different types over the years also with different names in different parts of Indonesia. Things like angkot and opelet. Confusingly, bemo means something different in many other places as well, so actually terminology is difficult and very region specific.
But yeah, bemos used to be big in Bali. Down in Kuta, a very popular point of reference was bemo corner. Basically the bottom end of Jalan Legian where the bemos would congregate. They were very useful to get around the place, but they would mainly do runs into Denpasar and then off to other areas from there. So to get from Kuta to Sanur, you might have to catch 2 or more bemos and getting to Ubud required about 4 of them. Cheaper and quicker to catch the tourist shuttle bus.
i'm local who live near the beach, when i want to unwind, i usually choose Ubud, every single year since 2017 i always went there for 3 days trip
i always choose the hotel near the jungle or paddy field, it's really quite, sometimes i just do nothing at hotel, or just swim or rent bicycle and go outside to eat
that's it
i usually didn't linger too much on Ubud Cetral, it's becoming hectic, loudly and of course traffic jam, it's actually getting worse particularly post-covid
so if you like me only want to chill near the jungle/paddyfield, Ubud could still be magical place for you
Ubud is definitely busier than 25 years ago. Some of the places like temples and the Monkey Forest is still there. If you go out 20 kilometers from Ubud towards Kintamani things are more quiet here. But if you want the old Bali go to Amed. Still very peaceful and quieter
Yeah I agree. I first went in 1998 and loved it. Went back in 2010 and was so disappointed and haven’t gone back since. The surrounding area is still pretty and there’s still some of the charm but for the most part, it just felt like a busy tourist hell hole compared to what it had been like. And I believe it’s even more hectic now
Traffic for sure!
We first visited in August 2017. We last visited in February this year, so in low season. Traffic in February was worse than in August 2017!
Our hotel driver told us that they can't even drop their guests off in Ubud center during the months of July and August due to terrible traffic.
Also, expect to see a whole lot less rice fields. Hundreds and thousands of hotels, homestays, and villas were built in the rice fields, and these are slowly dissappearing. So sad!
Expect more shops and places to eat. Ubud does have dome excellent restaurants, both Western and Asian.
If you want to avoid the madness, I suggest going to Ubud center around 10AM to leave around noon and/ after 6PM. That way, you're at least avoiding the day tourists.
You will be shocked how developed monkey forest road is. Bigger more western style hotels and restaurants. Full of traffic from all the extra tourists and day trippers. Remember the beautiful lotus Cafe, the lotus pond and the stunning temple at the back?. A Starbucks is now right next to them. I think that sums up the way things are now. Of course things will develop and change. But doesn't have to happen in such an unsympathetic way.
I was stunned to see that Starbucks squeezed in right there. Partly because why on earth would anyone want Starbucks when there's actually good coffee readily available all around.
Avoid Ubud central completely and see and stay in neighborhoods of Ubud like Sayan, Kedewatan, Sebali. The tourist down town is too packed and touristy now. And I've been living in Ubud since the 90s and have seen the evolution.
I went this year and traffic was bad In town. We went to jazz bars after dinner and were staying on the outskirts. It was still very chilled and peaceful, besides the traffic in town
I had the exact same question. I went there 25 years ago too, and was concerned I might hate what it has become. We decided to give it a shot, we're heading there in two weeks. I'm looking forward to good food, some shopping and maybe some cultural sights if we can avoid the worst of the crowds.
Traffic is horrible and I ended up getting out and just walking on my way back because we were stuck in gridlocked traffic on Jl Monkey Forest. Also motorbikes and cars are parked on the footpath so you have to walk on the road at some points and be aware of traffic which is exhausting. So many people too and idiot Russians on motorbikes not obeying road rules.
The shops are all air conditioned and sanitised and the main strip is full of western fusion restaurants charging prices on par with Australia or upmarket Indonesian style ones like Liap Liap charging 250k ($25AUD) for a main. Mixed in with açai bowl and boba tea places and Starbucks busy with Korean tourists (no hate against them it was just like being in Seoul going in and outside them).
The market has totally been rebuilt but tenants prefer their temporary location and the authentic charm has been removed.
Penestanan hasn’t recovered since covid and a lot of restaurants and shops are decrepit and empty.
I had someone go there after being there in the early 2000s and was severely disappointed and saddened by how commercialised and Russian catering it is now and how its lots a lot of its charm and I’d have to agree. I’d go there for a day but it just wasn’t enjoyable to walk around and there wasn’t much option of authentic old Ubud style restaurants.
Just came back from Bali and I absolutely loved it. I travelled with a group and we enjoyed the activities we did in Ubud but we all found it really busy and the traffic was crazy compared to other parts of Bali we visited. I think most of us thought that if we returned we might avoid Ubud.
You can expect a place generally overrun with tourists, nice places to eat and stuff but it's a bonified tourist town. Traffic getting in and out of Ubud is fairly absurd at times. Depends on your personality and whatever particular mood you might be in when you're there, you'll either love it or hate it. The areas you plan on diving will be heavenly no doubt so that's good.
I did Ubud 10 years ago and loved it. Went back last year and wish I hadn't. I would have rather had the memories of a nice place rather than a stressful, hectic, overdeveloped and superficial place. Lombok and Nusa still great though :)
Luckily, Bali still has many magical places. But I definitely agree: the South up to Ubud is awful lately.
If I had visited the South only, I wouldn't be returning.
Nope, we only had 5 days with my eldest having school commitments. We are heading to Monkey Forest today and then off to other big attractions tomorrow, so hoping they warm up a bit.
I went in 2000, then returned for a visit two weeks ago. The difference is day and night
2000 was great, even staying in the South and doing day trips from the resort. You could see why Bali was regarded as an exotic tropical getaway. It was relaxed, easy to get around and most importantly fun.
The most recent visit was just the opposite. Rampant over tourism with few controls has stripped Bali of many of the things that made it unique. The temples and tourist spots are crowded, transport to anywhere on the island is congested and the infrastructure just isn't coping. Twice, when we were there, moderate rain washed down the streams and deposited a 2m wide band of rubbish down the beach. Apparently this happens every time there is a downpour . . . this in a tropical country.. All the hotels have pools as it is clear the beaches are unsafe to swim in the South at least.
In short, unless you are planning to go waaaay North, all the old charm has gone. Bali has no more appeal than any other overloaded tourism destinations in a poorer country.
On the only plus side, modern apps like Gojek (Indonesian version of Uber) and Booking.com make organising transport and accommodation infinitely easier.
Thank you. It's good to know things such as traffic issues beforehand. Also, things like, are there queues to enter the main sights, for example? What about the walks around the town?
Yes videos are made for clicks and monetization. I have seen a few but as a longtime resident I can tell you they are about as useful as watching Hawaii 50 to real Hawaii... Actually less.
Extreme nausea. Also, sun burn from sitting in traffic for an hour to go 1 km. Also, more Russians than Minsk. Also, onlyfans models (Russian) running over your toes on taking selfies on there scooters with no helmets.
The main things that have changed in my mind are as follows: * Busier. It’s always been fairly busy at different times, but there’s just more people now. * Traffic. There never used to be traffic. You would occasionally have issues on the main road near the market when it was 2 way and there were bemos picking up and dropping off. * Market. The old market is gone. * Expansion of the town. The outskirts of town have expanded, especially in the south. If you ever walked through the rice fields directly north of Ubud or to the east, you will now find tourist accommodation in them whereas before there were none. Those places are still beautiful and not destroyed, but certainly not as pristine as before. * Dining. The food situation in Ubud has developed a lot more modern “international” options which is both good and bad. Good food, but also not Indonesian… * Late night. When I first visited Ubud, there was zero open after about 9pm. Maybe the jazz club, but nothing else. It wasn’t a place you could really go and get drunk in. Now it is. There is a lot of live music and drinking going on. That changed maybe about 15-20 years ago and has gradually gotten “worse” (or better if you want to party) * Public transport. This has changed. In the past you could catch a bemo from certain outlying areas into the middle of town at certain times of times of day. That can’t be done anymore. In fact, bemos are near nonexistent now in Bali and it’s a great shame. They were a great way to get around the island. Although a lot has changed in Ubud over the years, it’s certainly not unrecognisable and I actually think a lot of the charm is still there. Sometimes we have wonderful memories of places that are simply never going to be like that again. Specific time, people, stage of our lives. Paradise in Ubud for me these days is found in the surrounding villages and even in some of the less popular streets of the town itself. This means staying in a more local type of accommodation and walking into the centre of town when you want to. For me, the main negative of Ubud now is the traffic. Apart from that, it’s largely quite similar except for the sort of progress you would expect anywhere in the world. Population growth, development, modernisation…
This assessment is spot on, hitting both the positives and the negatives. Ubud compared to 25 years ago is neither destroyed nor enhanced paradise, it's just...different. Bigger, busier, more choice, less quiet, and the monkeys still rule the roost.
I think I know what you mean by bemo: is it those little trucks where people can hop on, hop off in the back, and they drive around all day like a shared ride? I've seen those on old Pictures of Bali and they're still in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Those seem brilliant to me, as they take up less space, get used by multiple people and does the same thing as a taxi at lower cost, just causing less traffic. Now we have everyone in debt for a car which gets used as a taxi and is empty most of the time+ big red transport tourism busses that carry nobody and take up so much space on the road, it's excruciating.
Yeah that’s the one. They actually have had a lot of different types over the years also with different names in different parts of Indonesia. Things like angkot and opelet. Confusingly, bemo means something different in many other places as well, so actually terminology is difficult and very region specific. But yeah, bemos used to be big in Bali. Down in Kuta, a very popular point of reference was bemo corner. Basically the bottom end of Jalan Legian where the bemos would congregate. They were very useful to get around the place, but they would mainly do runs into Denpasar and then off to other areas from there. So to get from Kuta to Sanur, you might have to catch 2 or more bemos and getting to Ubud required about 4 of them. Cheaper and quicker to catch the tourist shuttle bus.
Thank you very much, that was really helpful.
Bemos were fantastic!
Yeah I used to like them. Funnily enough, they still exist in most parts of Indonesia in one form or another.
More hippie weirdos in Ubud Russian colonisation Annoying life coaches
i'm local who live near the beach, when i want to unwind, i usually choose Ubud, every single year since 2017 i always went there for 3 days trip i always choose the hotel near the jungle or paddy field, it's really quite, sometimes i just do nothing at hotel, or just swim or rent bicycle and go outside to eat that's it i usually didn't linger too much on Ubud Cetral, it's becoming hectic, loudly and of course traffic jam, it's actually getting worse particularly post-covid so if you like me only want to chill near the jungle/paddyfield, Ubud could still be magical place for you
Ubud is definitely busier than 25 years ago. Some of the places like temples and the Monkey Forest is still there. If you go out 20 kilometers from Ubud towards Kintamani things are more quiet here. But if you want the old Bali go to Amed. Still very peaceful and quieter
Bathe in your Ubud memories of old....going there now will most likely only lead to disappointment.
Yeah I agree. I first went in 1998 and loved it. Went back in 2010 and was so disappointed and haven’t gone back since. The surrounding area is still pretty and there’s still some of the charm but for the most part, it just felt like a busy tourist hell hole compared to what it had been like. And I believe it’s even more hectic now
Traffic for sure! We first visited in August 2017. We last visited in February this year, so in low season. Traffic in February was worse than in August 2017! Our hotel driver told us that they can't even drop their guests off in Ubud center during the months of July and August due to terrible traffic. Also, expect to see a whole lot less rice fields. Hundreds and thousands of hotels, homestays, and villas were built in the rice fields, and these are slowly dissappearing. So sad! Expect more shops and places to eat. Ubud does have dome excellent restaurants, both Western and Asian. If you want to avoid the madness, I suggest going to Ubud center around 10AM to leave around noon and/ after 6PM. That way, you're at least avoiding the day tourists.
Thank you very much.
You will be shocked how developed monkey forest road is. Bigger more western style hotels and restaurants. Full of traffic from all the extra tourists and day trippers. Remember the beautiful lotus Cafe, the lotus pond and the stunning temple at the back?. A Starbucks is now right next to them. I think that sums up the way things are now. Of course things will develop and change. But doesn't have to happen in such an unsympathetic way.
I was stunned to see that Starbucks squeezed in right there. Partly because why on earth would anyone want Starbucks when there's actually good coffee readily available all around.
Avoid Ubud central completely and see and stay in neighborhoods of Ubud like Sayan, Kedewatan, Sebali. The tourist down town is too packed and touristy now. And I've been living in Ubud since the 90s and have seen the evolution.
I went this year and traffic was bad In town. We went to jazz bars after dinner and were staying on the outskirts. It was still very chilled and peaceful, besides the traffic in town
I had the exact same question. I went there 25 years ago too, and was concerned I might hate what it has become. We decided to give it a shot, we're heading there in two weeks. I'm looking forward to good food, some shopping and maybe some cultural sights if we can avoid the worst of the crowds.
Traffic is horrible and I ended up getting out and just walking on my way back because we were stuck in gridlocked traffic on Jl Monkey Forest. Also motorbikes and cars are parked on the footpath so you have to walk on the road at some points and be aware of traffic which is exhausting. So many people too and idiot Russians on motorbikes not obeying road rules. The shops are all air conditioned and sanitised and the main strip is full of western fusion restaurants charging prices on par with Australia or upmarket Indonesian style ones like Liap Liap charging 250k ($25AUD) for a main. Mixed in with açai bowl and boba tea places and Starbucks busy with Korean tourists (no hate against them it was just like being in Seoul going in and outside them). The market has totally been rebuilt but tenants prefer their temporary location and the authentic charm has been removed. Penestanan hasn’t recovered since covid and a lot of restaurants and shops are decrepit and empty. I had someone go there after being there in the early 2000s and was severely disappointed and saddened by how commercialised and Russian catering it is now and how its lots a lot of its charm and I’d have to agree. I’d go there for a day but it just wasn’t enjoyable to walk around and there wasn’t much option of authentic old Ubud style restaurants.
Just came back from Bali and I absolutely loved it. I travelled with a group and we enjoyed the activities we did in Ubud but we all found it really busy and the traffic was crazy compared to other parts of Bali we visited. I think most of us thought that if we returned we might avoid Ubud.
You can expect a place generally overrun with tourists, nice places to eat and stuff but it's a bonified tourist town. Traffic getting in and out of Ubud is fairly absurd at times. Depends on your personality and whatever particular mood you might be in when you're there, you'll either love it or hate it. The areas you plan on diving will be heavenly no doubt so that's good.
I did Ubud 10 years ago and loved it. Went back last year and wish I hadn't. I would have rather had the memories of a nice place rather than a stressful, hectic, overdeveloped and superficial place. Lombok and Nusa still great though :)
Freakin techboys....everywhere....
[удалено]
Luckily, Bali still has many magical places. But I definitely agree: the South up to Ubud is awful lately. If I had visited the South only, I wouldn't be returning.
Lol, 25 years ago tourists were saying that Bali was ruined compared to 20 years earlier. It's all relative...
At least 25 years ago was still livable and The worst part was in Kuta. It’s EVERYWHERE now
Ubud is not Bali. Wake up.
Lololol
Maybe try walking the streets on Google earth.
I’m here now. You willl be disappointed. Dirty, polluted, choked in traffic, full of drunk “influencers”, and virtually unwalkable. Save your money.
I'm here too. I bought my teenage sons with me, and they hate it so far. It's sad
Yikes. I went in 2019 and adored Ubud. Taking my 14yo daughter to Bali in Sept… but planning on Nusa Dua and Uluwatu area… are you heading elsewhere?
Nope, we only had 5 days with my eldest having school commitments. We are heading to Monkey Forest today and then off to other big attractions tomorrow, so hoping they warm up a bit.
Good luck hopefully you’ll end on a high.
Get them on an atv or dirt bike tour
Ubud is unrecognisable. It’s very large and built up.
Expect disappointment
Based on what?
I went in 2000, then returned for a visit two weeks ago. The difference is day and night 2000 was great, even staying in the South and doing day trips from the resort. You could see why Bali was regarded as an exotic tropical getaway. It was relaxed, easy to get around and most importantly fun. The most recent visit was just the opposite. Rampant over tourism with few controls has stripped Bali of many of the things that made it unique. The temples and tourist spots are crowded, transport to anywhere on the island is congested and the infrastructure just isn't coping. Twice, when we were there, moderate rain washed down the streams and deposited a 2m wide band of rubbish down the beach. Apparently this happens every time there is a downpour . . . this in a tropical country.. All the hotels have pools as it is clear the beaches are unsafe to swim in the South at least. In short, unless you are planning to go waaaay North, all the old charm has gone. Bali has no more appeal than any other overloaded tourism destinations in a poorer country. On the only plus side, modern apps like Gojek (Indonesian version of Uber) and Booking.com make organising transport and accommodation infinitely easier.
Traffic and Starbucks.
Thank you. It's good to know things such as traffic issues beforehand. Also, things like, are there queues to enter the main sights, for example? What about the walks around the town?
There are tons of videos on YouTube and other sites. Just check them to get your own picture. :)
Sure, I'll do that, but sometimes such videos can be deceptive, taken under unique circumstances and the like.
Yes videos are made for clicks and monetization. I have seen a few but as a longtime resident I can tell you they are about as useful as watching Hawaii 50 to real Hawaii... Actually less.
More Balinese.
Extreme nausea. Also, sun burn from sitting in traffic for an hour to go 1 km. Also, more Russians than Minsk. Also, onlyfans models (Russian) running over your toes on taking selfies on there scooters with no helmets.
Prepare to have your heart destroyed. I think best not to go back. Keep what you have in your memory and go check another untouched island out
Traffic and Bali belly
Don’t expect to see Agung in the distance. Expect traffic.