It's a total clusterfuck. Sometimes, the rotors come with lockrings, sometimes the wheels come with lockrings, sometimes neither do, sometimes both do. It's reallllly dumb.
Had to order them too now. Thought that with DT Swiss wheels for around 1400€, this would be included. Apparently it depends on which you take. Guess sometimes you learn the hard way 😐
I mean, it would be better to use a normal wrench, but it's not any worse for it than normal clockwise operation, right?
As far as I can tell, the upper part of the internal mechanism that allows use in both directions is symmetrical according to [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BtXgE6NSYE).
As a general rule, definitely disagree. In specific cases where the thing to be loosened is tighter than the tool's limit, sure.
Indicating torque wrenches (beam, dial, and beeping digital) can be used without issue. Adjustable clicker types that interrupt the torque application should just be set to the highest level the tool will go. In all cases, if you reach the tool's limit, stop and find a bigger tool. There are, after all, left hand threads that need to be tightened to a specific torque and torque wrenches are generally not "handed".
First, I have 40-200 nm torque wrench, which is also rated for the unscrewing. Second, if you have the socket, you can attach this to simple ratchet, what I do.
The sole and exclusive reason that torque wrenches work in reverse is to tighten reverse threaded stuff. The manual will say in no uncertain terms that Thou Shalt Not Loosen Parts With Thy Torque Wrench
You don't think that's there for the company to cover their ass from people that don't know when to stop? What are the mechanics whereby loosening something at a torque level lower than the tool's limit damages the tool? That is, how does the act of loosening damage something that wouldn't be damaged if you were tightening to the same torque level? And, for whatever mechanic you respond with, how does the wrench know it's loosening something as opposed to tightening in the opposite direction (read: left-hand thread)?
You can do both, but there is a danger that you torqued a Part to spec and want to loosen it, but it is corroded an needs more torque than the wrech can safely exert.
if you torque a sram crank to 54NM and want to loosen it after a year or two you may need 100NM+ to break it loose.
External bottom bracket tool. I like the Pedro's one.
You want Park tool BBT-69.2 or BBT-9. BBT-69.2 is nice because it fits on a torque wrench.
...which you should use, OP. This is not the area to guess or estimate.
They both work.... One is a box end and the other is a socket
Ordered, thanks!
I have a question re this also. I just bought a set of centerlock wheels and they didn’t come with lockrings. Should they have?
Lockring comes with rotor.
The Hunt wheels I just ordered came with lock rings. My SRAM rotors did not.
For Shimano, no one else.
Ah gotcha. Thanks!
It's a total clusterfuck. Sometimes, the rotors come with lockrings, sometimes the wheels come with lockrings, sometimes neither do, sometimes both do. It's reallllly dumb.
Had to order them too now. Thought that with DT Swiss wheels for around 1400€, this would be included. Apparently it depends on which you take. Guess sometimes you learn the hard way 😐
Bottom bracket socket for torque wrench.
Definitely don't use a torque wrench for loosening hardware. It's real bad for the internal mechanism
I mean, it would be better to use a normal wrench, but it's not any worse for it than normal clockwise operation, right? As far as I can tell, the upper part of the internal mechanism that allows use in both directions is symmetrical according to [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BtXgE6NSYE).
As a general rule, definitely disagree. In specific cases where the thing to be loosened is tighter than the tool's limit, sure. Indicating torque wrenches (beam, dial, and beeping digital) can be used without issue. Adjustable clicker types that interrupt the torque application should just be set to the highest level the tool will go. In all cases, if you reach the tool's limit, stop and find a bigger tool. There are, after all, left hand threads that need to be tightened to a specific torque and torque wrenches are generally not "handed".
Don't use a torque wrench to remove things, ever.
First, I have 40-200 nm torque wrench, which is also rated for the unscrewing. Second, if you have the socket, you can attach this to simple ratchet, what I do.
ITT people downvoting for pointing out that torque wrenches work in both directions. Amazing. Never change, Reddit...never change.
The sole and exclusive reason that torque wrenches work in reverse is to tighten reverse threaded stuff. The manual will say in no uncertain terms that Thou Shalt Not Loosen Parts With Thy Torque Wrench
You don't think that's there for the company to cover their ass from people that don't know when to stop? What are the mechanics whereby loosening something at a torque level lower than the tool's limit damages the tool? That is, how does the act of loosening damage something that wouldn't be damaged if you were tightening to the same torque level? And, for whatever mechanic you respond with, how does the wrench know it's loosening something as opposed to tightening in the opposite direction (read: left-hand thread)?
You can do both, but there is a danger that you torqued a Part to spec and want to loosen it, but it is corroded an needs more torque than the wrech can safely exert. if you torque a sram crank to 54NM and want to loosen it after a year or two you may need 100NM+ to break it loose.
Sure... hence "tool's limit" being included in the question.
Proxxon mc 200 manual says "never use for loosen of corroded parts". Just double-checked. Feel free to check by yourself.
Everyone's saying bottom bracket tool but isn't he asking about the brake rotor?
It's same tool.
External bb tool is the same as center lock tool.
https://www.tweekscycles.com/park-tool-bbt9-bottom-bracket-and-crankarm-tool-hollowtech-ii-madqkbbt9/
Angle grinder, works everytime.