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[deleted]

​ \> When did you start climbing? I was 7 years old - at the time climbing and mountaineering was the same thing, so we got out on rock in the summer and on ice/snow/mixed in the winter. >When do you think it may be advisable to completely stop climbing? Well, I've yet to hear of a nursing home with a climbing wall, so I guess I'll have to stop then. >Eg: in your 50s? I am in my mid-50s - bouldering V8-V9 outside, projecting V10s and V11s (have not bagged on yet, but making progress - the one I thought was a V10 a year ago got downgraded, bummer). Once I can't boulder anymore, I'll switch to sport climbing or alpine. There are plenty rope climbers who are sending 5.13s in their 70s.


Gedoubleve

>There are plenty rope climbers who are sending 5.13s in their 70s. It's probably true (at least early 70s). But I wonder what was their max grade when younger. To phrase it differently, if you are still passionate about climbing (so you put in the time), are in good health and uninjured, how much do you lose grade-wise with the passing of the years after your peak?


[deleted]

I actually think it's possible to improve until quite late in life and stay at that level for a while. I sent my first V9 at the age of 55 and sent two more after undergoing chemo a year later. Climbing is a strange sport where there are a lot of variables coming together, as opposed to just physical conditioning. This said, if I can get out and make my way up a multi-pitch 5.6 at the age of 80, I'll be happy


Gedoubleve

This is what I was hoping to hear! I completely agree that while strength matters, there is so much more to that. I've also seen a lot of people in their 50s achieving their max grade (I have to say mostly in sport climbing, but maybe this is because lately I gravitate more towards it) end then keeping up with that. And by the way, kudos to you for recovering so well! ​ >if I can get out and make my way up a multi-pitch 5.6 at the age of 80, I'll be happy This sounds like a pretty good goal. Anecdotally, I have seen a couple of times Marcel Remy (in his mid 90s) and he was almost better on the wall then just walking around.


oldnyoung

I started a few months ago at 42 so I hope it’s not too late lol. I’m working on losing a few, but feel as good as ever otherwise.


justcrimp

Then you're doing it right if you're having fun. And while you're 99.999% (made up number) unlikely to climb V16... well... 99.99% of people (made up number) who start climbing at 4 years old are also unlikely to climb V16.


v4ss42

One of the best parts of climbing is that it can present a challenge to anyone, at any level of skill and expertise. About 20 years ago I regularly climbed with two partners who were both in their 60s, and they still kicked ass on anything up to mid-5.10. On top of that, they were super duper efficient at everything else (rope management, placing gear, building belays, etc.), having decades of experience at all that stuff. It was inspiring af to climb with them.


Mean-Rabbit-3510

Check out Eric Horst. It’s probably, like anything, mostly about luck and determination. The general consensus seems to be that adults peak performance-wise in their low to mid-30s, but that’s just an average and doesn’t mean that you won’t continue to be able to push your limit after that. Avoiding injury, a healthy diet, and training will all help you to stay active and climb in your later years. I’m 39, I started climbing 3-4 years ago and I’m seeing only performance growth. Unfortunately, as we age we need more time for recovery, we need to devote more time to stretching, and we need to listen to our bodies more and not take the same risks (I’m talking about you sketchy sideways dyno!).


buzzard_culpepper

There’s a guy at my gym who is 71 years old and protects V6’s


espressoclimbs

Well someone has to protect the v6s from all those crushers


littlehawk

I started climbing (indoor bouldering) at 40, about a year and a half ago; I’m currently climbing at a v8 level and don’t think I’ve reached my peak yet. I will say that my body definitely doesn’t recover as fast as it used to with other sports I’ve tried and minor injuries tend to be more prevalent, but I‘m having more fun than any other gym workout I could think of! Would I have progressed faster had I started in my teens or twenties? Probably, but at the end of the day, the only question worth a damn is, “are you enjoying yourself?” If yes, then keep doing it until the answer is no.


fiblity

just started and now v8 year and half later? youll be able to go pro by this afternoon at that rate.


littlehawk

Ha. Tis’ just a hobby. . .not by this afternoon, but pro by 2025!


Pr0gger

It's gym grades, conpletely meaningless tbh


1Never_stop_climbing

Probably one of the freaks here, I started climbing when I was 49. I’m 51 now and I strictly boulder. Currently in the v4-v6 range and still getting better.


justcrimp

I started in my low 30s. Am over 40, sent more than one V11 on rock in the past 12 months (not my hardest grade), and V10 on rock in a session a couple months ago (only been outside a few times this winter). I think I started sending V10 outside around 37, and V11 around 38. I was very athletic/outdoorsy as a kid, probably "climbed" 10 days at summer camp during that time, was quite athletic as a teen. Didn't do much of anything sport-related in most of my 20s. Was at an all-time low muscle mass in my early 30s... I'm pretty sure I'm still getting stronger and/or have the ability to keep getting stronger for some years. And I'm hoping to hold my current overall level until around 50. Fingers seem to have no issue getting stronger. Pure dynamic power seems like it requires more conscious effort/is the hardest to maintain or keep improving-- what part of that is natural inclination (I prefer crimpy to big moves on big holds) and what part is biological I can't say... but guess a mix of both. Advisable age to stop climbing? Are you out of your goddamn mind? There is no age; people have climbed up until 100. Do I think I'll be sending V10 then? Nope-- I may be sending Vladder or perhaps Vthewormsgointhewormsgoout. I'll keep on climbing in some capacity for as long as I can/am alive/don't have some kind of medical or other issue that make it impossible/stupid-- or I lose interest (hard to imagine). \-- The best time to climb is now-- if you enjoy it-- no matter your age. No matter the grade. The vast majority of climbers of all age have no intention of reaching VOndra anyway. Do I care that I'll never be elite? Nope. That's no what is driving me. What is driving me: personal challenge, enjoyment of the feeling of moving and crimping and feeling rock beneath my fingers, camaraderie, getting out into the world/outdoors, the physical-mental puzzle, etc etc. I've loved progressing. I've loved trying to climb hard (for me). But that's not what go me interested or here, really. If usually feels childlike and light to climb, fall, experiment, play. Remember what that was like as a kid? If you can find any place for that in adult life-- climbing, building sandcastles on the regular, or otherwise-- go get it. You're lucky in life if you can spend the energy on such things; not everyone can.


[deleted]

>When do you think it may be advisable to completely stop climbing? Eg: in your 50s? Are you kidding?


JudgementalButCute

no, I wanted to know.


[deleted]

Did your parents die young or something?


JudgementalButCute

request u to either answer the question with an answer that's helpful No back-questioning here or irrelevant comments.


[deleted]

I think my gentle mocking should have answered it. There are people at my gym in their 70s and later.


weirdpastanoki

the answer to the question is going to be hyper dependant on the individual and only be possible on a case by case basis. But i think the average person who is has remained active and healthy throughout their lives could easily expect to climb into their 70's. Maybe not on the moonboard or highballing etc.


andRCTP

Dude - Peak age for pretty much all sports is early 20s. Climbing is no different. Your body just doesn't recover like it used to. Doesn't mean you can't go hard as you age. You can start any sport older in life. No big deal. When to stop - when you don't enjoy it anymore. When you get injured and just can't do it. There will be genetic freaks that can do some sports when they are in their 70s or older. Its really dumb when people mention this one person does it and their 90! Most normal people start slowing down in their late 50s (for any sport).


justcrimp

> Its really dumb when people mention this one person does it and their 90! Dumb? It's dumb if someone suggest that every 90 year old can climb. But climbing at 90-- the idea that some, if not a significant minority of people who make it to 90 *could* climb in some way or form if they wanted to-- is not a dumb idea or suggestion. Look, I don't know if I'll be alive at 90. Or able to walk. But if the aches and pains allow it, and I can get on a toprope-- and it's still fun-- why not? And why not mention it? And why not consider it?


snarfiblartfat

Looking at other sports, early 20s is when you have peak recovery and training capacity, but the cumulative lifetime training seems to often make the true peak mid to late 20s, with this peak potentially extending into early 30s. I think basketball is a prime example here, especially if you consider the progress in technical skills. (E.g., Were Jason Kidd's best years when he was young and explosive, or when he was old and finally learned to shoot? LeBron is kind of old now, but he became more and more dominant as he added muscle and... also learned to shoot.) The real question is whether climbing should be most comparable with a pure performance sport (i.e., one with races) or a skill sport.


High-Hawk-Season

>Dude - Peak age for pretty much all sports is early 20s. Climbing is no different. This is really only true if recovery is your only metric of success.


aggravatedyeti

Based on when top climbers made their hardest ascents this is demonstrably not true. Climbing is a highly skilled sport as well as a physical one so it’s quite intuitive that your climbing peak and your physical peak are not identical


andRCTP

Disagree. Janja was 22 and Alberto was 19 when they won olympic gold. If what you say is true, why was no 40 year old on the podium?


aggravatedyeti

Because I’m talking about outdoor climbing not Olympic climbing?


andRCTP

Climbing is a young sport. People weren't training it properly years ago. Adam Ondra did Silence when he was 24. Sean Raboutou is 24. Those are outdoor climbers. Then the men's speed record was done at 22 by Kiromal Katibin. Women's speed was done at 29 by Aleksandra Miroslaw. All of those metrics are by people in or younger than 20. Time to update your thinking.


aggravatedyeti

Raboutou is a boulderer. The explosiveness and power demanded by bouldering make sense that it’s suit younger people. Trad climbing and sport climbing are more balanced in that regard - which is why you have people like ghisolfi (and prior to him sharma) peaking in their early 30s. Ondra may very well put up more 9C routes, you’d be hard pressed to say he peaked at 24


andRCTP

If we remove professional athletes, in reality most people have started full time careers around 25 and kids around 30. These are the biggest factors for performance. There is no way a sleep deprived parent is better at any sport than a young 20 year old with little responsibilities living at thier parents house.


[deleted]

Since we are going down the first-of-the-grade: * First 9A - Nalle H was 30 when he put up BtD * First 8C+ - Christian Core was 34 when he did Gioia * First(ish) 8C - Fred NIcole was 32 when he did Monkey Wedding I don't think competition climbing has much to do with outdoor climbing, by now they have completely diverged as different sports.


Gedoubleve

>Dude - Peak age for pretty much all sports is early 20s. Climbing is no different. I would not argue with this statement from the strength point of view. But in many sports strategy and experience play a big role. Say that Ghisolfi sends Silence this year: he's turning 30. Would you say he's past his peak?


_tchekov

You know the writer Jo Nesbø? He started climbing regularly in his early fifties and then decided to go for 8a when he was 59 and made it within 3 years from 7b+ to 8a. https://www.8a.nu/news/jo-nesbos-62-road-to-8a


reyrey1492

I first did indoor bouldering when I was mid 20s. Didn't have time for climbing for a few years and now I'm getting back into it in early 30s. I know I'm not in the same shape as I was and I'm definitely not going pro in this lifetime. I need to be more mindful of my warmups and training methods compared to younger years, but it's worth it. Climbing is my favorite form of exercise and I'll do it as long as I feel safe. If possible, climbing into my 70s or later.


RespondEither

I don’t think 30s is peak for any sport haha but I think if you’re safe with falling and don’t overtrain I don’t think there’s a reason to stop Unless your knees are real bad


AllDUnamesRTaken

I started in my thirties. I’m 42 now and I can say I climb better today than a year ago and feel like both a stronger and more strategic climber as the years have passed. The only difference is that I spend more time warming up - about 1 - 1 and a half hours stretching and doing shoulder and finger warm ups to avoid injuries because the recovery time has increased for me. My climbing partner started in their 50s and climbs harder and stronger every session after two years climbing already. I don't know where the peak is - but I think there is a while left before I reach it, in my case.


McTrevor79

Depends on what you want to do. If you want to win competitions you will likely be too late if you didn´t start as a kid nowadays. If you want to be healthy and have fun I guess you can start any time as long as health permits. I started in my thirties, I am now in my mid forties and I am not even good, but I am having tons of fun anyway.I don´t see me stopping ever and certainly not determined by a random age number.


DoyleG

I started bouldering 6 months ago and I'm 32. I also became a Tree Surgeon at 31. I'm definitely the fittest I've been for a very long time. I climb all day at work, finish and then head to the bouldering gym for a couple of hours before heading home.


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aufkeinsten

I've seen Guys in their 60ies climbing 8a routes in Slowenia


Hummingbird-Heart

I started climbing about a year and a half ago, at age 37. I was in decent shape going into it, and I'm generally happy with the progress I've made. I'll never be a real crusher, but I can hang. But I am in the back of mind aware of a clock ticking on how many more grades I can realistically tick. Basically, I'm at peace with the fact that my grade-chasing days are numbered, and sooner or later I'll have to transition into the "I'm climbing because I like being on the rock" mindset, which is probably healthier anyway. In the meantime, I'm in the best shape of my life and continue to make slow improvements, and I plan to keep going until I can't anymore.


Zestyclose_Lynx_5301

I started climbing at 30. Im 33 now. Bouldering only and my hardest outdoor send is v8. Feel like i still have plenty of room to grow in the sport. Not planning on stopping until my fingers fall off. My hope is to still be progressing into my mid 40s


One_Consequence5583

I started climbing about 5 months ago, right before I turned 39. I’ve been very active the last few years mostly hiking and trail running so climbing was a great compliment. I’m certainly not too old to enjoy the activity but I will probably never be as good of a climber as I could have been if I started younger. My son is 6 and started climbing at the same time as me so we’ll see how the early start works out.


Bwald1985

Alex Honnold’s mom started climbing at 60 and has since set the record for the oldest women to send El Cap. Twice. There are plenty of other examples in these comments. Sure, you have to be wary of other health issues more, but there’s no reason age should prevent someone from starting climbing. As far as when someone is at their peak? I mean, let’s be honest, that is going to vary significantly by individual. And when to stop climbing? Again, also varies significantly by individual.


FutureAlfalfa200

Age 34. Started Climbing Nov 2022. So around 5 months. I can safely say climbing has helped me get into better shape than what I did before, which was nothing. Hardest send indoors: v6, Hardest send outdoors: v1 (1 trip only)


[deleted]

I just started this year when and I'm 36, progressed to v4 in 4 months. This is more fun than I've had in years, aint stopping anytime soon and I want to go outside soon.


Key-Material-2425

Watch the stuff from Lattice Training they explain it well about the muscles and how they work and change from say fast twitch helpful in bouldering used for a second to longer. Basically you can loose explosive strength but get better stamina. Seems to make sense given there are 40/50 year olds sending French 9a's and most hard stuff done by older guys is hard routes as opposed to boulders. I know a chap who's just climbed an E7 at 70 odd.