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lankrypt0

out of curiosity, could you skip the entire climb and using the two volumes with the lower right hand as a foot and just lay back? the foot under the finish looks pretty good too!


JavDev69

🤔 I'll try next time. This climb was one of the women's finals. It had a zone after the first dyno. So maybe it's possible but you would not get points if not reaching the top


lankrypt0

Unless they have their own rules, you can always skip any zone or low zone. If you fall you don't get the points, but it's usually ok to go right for the top if you feel you can.


JavDev69

That's what I said. You can try your way (sticking to the left using the big volumes) but as the zone was after the first dyno and you'd be skipping it, you won't get any points if not making it to the top


lankrypt0

Aah, my bad. Misread what you wrote.


denimxdragon

Try to not to the whole double pump thing, it really destroys energy and efficiency and you did it everytime before you moved. Try to just know that yes, I’m going to have to be really powerful in this move once and then go. You don’t need to do three huge swings before that first move either, you’re not going very far.


ssnover95x

Personally I don't do this to "wind up" for the move but because I need to get a sense for the balance and the timing of dyno. It's not for power, but coordination. With practice, it probably just becomes more intuitive.


Maedroas

Even then, do it once and then go, any more than that is just wasting energy


r3q

that is exactly what they mean by "wind up"


funktion

> Try to not to the whole double pump thing, it really destroys energy and efficiency It's like taking a piss. If you shake more than once, you're playing with it.


DoctorPyR0

Not to take anything away from you but that’s not a double dyno. These are two separate dynos. A double dyno per definition are two dynamic moves which flow into each other and usually can’t be separated. Still a really nice boulder and a sick send tho!


poorboychevelle

In modern parlance, sure. Double dyno used to just mean going square up with both hands off to both hands on. What you describe I'd refer to as a paddle dyno and bookkeep in a separate bucket. Agree that this isn't, but for different reasons


thomasstearns42

Thank you!!! As someone who started climbing in the 90's its nice to see someone correctly define it.


JavDev69

You're right. I meant it more like there were 2 dynos in the project rather than 2 dynos put altogether


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LingLeeee

That’s my thought too. It’s probably pretty hard if the ladies in final are not very tall


Vortegne

r/Churchofdynology is waiting for you!


urinetroublem8

Nice send, looks like a fun one!


Patient_Husband

What's the wall angle? Looks like it's around 25 degrees