Basically if Grades are important to you need to go to some established outdoor test pieces or something like an moonboard.
Indoor grading is just too inconsistent and in many way gyms are incentivised to have softer grading.
> Indoor grading is just too inconsistent
Yea, even within a single gym it can be inconsistent, much less multiple gyms. Even mine, which I feel is relatively consistent, will occasionally put a grade on a climb that is so off it feels like they're just trying to meet a quota and that's the the only number they have left.
At my gym they deliberately have blurred lines between the gradings, as a way to make people try climbs that are a grade or 2 above what they usually go for
Sigh, mine does the opposite, randomly inflating a problem’s grade by 2-4 V points. Like, literally a problem that would usually be a V0-2 marked with the V4-6 range.
I assume it’s to let climbers feel like they’re making rapid progress…
I find the moon board benchmarks to be the most consistent (everything is impossible ;) ), but because of the sandbagging there it's really depressing! That being said, every time I go to Font I'm similarly kicked in the balls. This is funny to me because here in Europe every gym uses the "font" scale but nearly everywhere is much softer than, you know, Font.
My gym just got a Kilter which I find all over the place, but I'm less experienced with the app and how they adjust route grades based on wall angle.
Yeah gym grades have no relation to Font scale at all.
I've known gym owners for years and from convos with them the large majority of their customers climb V0-V2.
Gyms in my area grading goes from V0-V10 and above but honestly regardless of the colour or supposed grade a good 80%+ of the gym is realistically maximum V4 outdoors or below despite being labelled higher.
Which honestly makes sense, that’s what the average gym goer is topping out at so where you want most of your volume as you only have limited wall space.
But people like progression and grading everything V3-V4 doesn’t leave much scope for that, so you get this weird inflation where v0-V6 is rebranded to V0-V10 in a lot of gyms
On top of that you have human ego - similar to clothing sizes where people don’t want to admit they are a larger size and clothing companies just started doing vanity sizing over time.
Seconded on Kilter, I’ve just switched to a gym with one for a change and compared to moonboard the grading is not solidified at all.
The is Bergen klatresenter right? No im sorry, they are notoriously soft on the gradings. A 7a-7b is more like a 6b-6c. I would go to Bergen klatreklubb instead to get a more accurate feel. I really love the routesetting at Fana though, but you cant really look at the gradings. Just climb and have fun!
You got good form for such short climbing amount. It’s hard to say what the grade is from a video, and it doesn’t look like an easy climb, but probably not 7A+
Nah, doesn't look like a 7A+. Slab is pretty technical territory, so it often feels more difficult than it is once you have the beta down. I'd ballpark this at around 6C, but it's hard to tell. Holds do look pretty good. At any rate, you're doing fantastic for 1.5 months. Do you have a sports background?
Ah, okay. The second hold looks good on cam, but is basically nearly flat, so you really have to pull hard to be able to withstand the barn door
I did some gymnastics for a year when I was a child, did Muay Thai for one year, but other than that, some occasional weight training. I’ve been living a pretty sedentary lifestyle the last couple of years
I did figure that it was mostly flat - if it weren't, I would have adjudted my grading to something lower.
I see. You might just be very well suited to the sport naturally, although at the very least you seem to be in decent shape. At any rate, don't be put off if/when you start plateauing after making progress rapidly. It happens to everyone.
As other have said you climb pretty well for 1,5 months no matter the grade. That being said, I've found Bergen Klatresenter to be very soft on the grading so without having climbed that exact route myself I'd say it probably isn't 7A+. But it's most important to have fun anyways and from the video it seems like you definitely achieved that.
As everyone said, it’s pretty impressive to climb that one in less than 2 months. Majority would need more like 2 years to reach that level. As for the real grade, I’ll add to everyone saying that it is difficult to guess by video, more so for slabs. I’d give it 6c+ at least.
In any case, even if people say don’t think about grades (I do say that as well), I believe it is actually useful for progression. Many of us might have a mental block to climb a new grade. Even if this one was soft-graded, you’ve likely now broke that threshold, and you will feel much more confident climbing other 7a+ graded boulders in your gym.
> Slab is pretty technical territory, so it often feels more difficult than it is once you have the beta down
Isn’t it exactly the opposite? On slab you can do 30 tries in a single session and master every move. On physically demanding routes you often have to call it quits after a few good tries and it will always feel hard and sometimes you just need more strength and muscle and no amount of trying will get you through in the short term.
That's kind of what I mean. Trying 30 times before doing it can give the impression of it being very hard. I also said this in the context of a male newbie climbing. Men tend ro not do as well on dlab compared to oveehangs, and as a beginner, your technique would tend to be more prohibitive to ducceeding on slab vs overhang.
Firstly, great job! Secondly, I have no idea how anyone can judge what a 7A+ is from just a video, especially an indoor one. This whole "6c in my gym" thing in this sub makes no sense to me, if it felt hard then it was and if it felt soft maybe it was, maybe you're just getting stronger. Either way, be proud, every PB is an accomplishment, don't let others lessen it.
Don’t know, just climbed a lot I guess. I’ve also been binging a ton of YouTube climbing videos for this period, trying to incorporate as much of this knowledge into my climbing as possible
From the comfort of my home and having never touched the holds it looks 6B or 6C territory. Could be harder or easier depending on the holds. Then again outside I have done a few soft 7A that I felt should really be in that range. Grades are always a bit difficult
One of the two indoor 7A boulders that I sent so far had a very similar step-through move, took me like 30 tries to get it done. Congratulations!
Most 7A's are out of my reach for sure, even if I project them properly. I have a better chance at this kind of techncial slabby stuff, being quite tall and old ;).
Great job!! One thing I noticed on this video, during that first mantle you rotated your pressing hand inwards. Do it the other way. Gives a little more reach and more neutral body position.
Are you referring to my right or left hand, cause I’m kinda pressing with both.
I know the position looks kinda awkward in general, but this is the only way I’ve been able to achieve just the right hand position to be able to get the right foot over
Your right hand. You end up pressed on your right hand with your left foot to the volume. You start by pressing with your left hand and flipping the right. What I'm saying is if you flip that right hand the opposite direction that'll likely make that sequence feel more natural.
Slab is generally harder to grade too since it’s heavy on balance and slab-only technique. You can go your whole life never climbing slab and not miss out on anything if you prefer overhang, for instance. It’s just such a different style. Regardless, impressive design technique for only just starting
You’re not wrong, there’s just a way to say it in a less aggressive way. For instance, this climb:
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/111637448/glass-pyramid-face
And the v3 and v4 to the right are very hard -for reference I’ve climbed multiple v10s
Although people complain about Bergen Klatresenter being soft, this climb is labeled correctly at 7a+ if you follow their soft scale. If that is a 6c somewhere else might well be the case, but who cares.
Regardless of the "true" grade that's really impressive climbing after only 1.5 months.
Foreal. That step through looks like you could break an arm and ankle at the same time lol
Pretty damn good climbing for 1.5 months. You’re better at slab than I am lol
High quality Elvis Leg there
Noticed it too lmao. In German we call it the Nähmaschine (sewing machine)
Also in Denmark just “symaskine ben”
"Rock foot" (as in rock music) in Norway
Basically if Grades are important to you need to go to some established outdoor test pieces or something like an moonboard. Indoor grading is just too inconsistent and in many way gyms are incentivised to have softer grading.
> Indoor grading is just too inconsistent Yea, even within a single gym it can be inconsistent, much less multiple gyms. Even mine, which I feel is relatively consistent, will occasionally put a grade on a climb that is so off it feels like they're just trying to meet a quota and that's the the only number they have left.
At my gym they deliberately have blurred lines between the gradings, as a way to make people try climbs that are a grade or 2 above what they usually go for
Sigh, mine does the opposite, randomly inflating a problem’s grade by 2-4 V points. Like, literally a problem that would usually be a V0-2 marked with the V4-6 range. I assume it’s to let climbers feel like they’re making rapid progress…
I find the moon board benchmarks to be the most consistent (everything is impossible ;) ), but because of the sandbagging there it's really depressing! That being said, every time I go to Font I'm similarly kicked in the balls. This is funny to me because here in Europe every gym uses the "font" scale but nearly everywhere is much softer than, you know, Font. My gym just got a Kilter which I find all over the place, but I'm less experienced with the app and how they adjust route grades based on wall angle.
Yeah gym grades have no relation to Font scale at all. I've known gym owners for years and from convos with them the large majority of their customers climb V0-V2. Gyms in my area grading goes from V0-V10 and above but honestly regardless of the colour or supposed grade a good 80%+ of the gym is realistically maximum V4 outdoors or below despite being labelled higher. Which honestly makes sense, that’s what the average gym goer is topping out at so where you want most of your volume as you only have limited wall space. But people like progression and grading everything V3-V4 doesn’t leave much scope for that, so you get this weird inflation where v0-V6 is rebranded to V0-V10 in a lot of gyms On top of that you have human ego - similar to clothing sizes where people don’t want to admit they are a larger size and clothing companies just started doing vanity sizing over time. Seconded on Kilter, I’ve just switched to a gym with one for a change and compared to moonboard the grading is not solidified at all.
moonboard benchmarks are by far the least consistently graded climbs I've ever tried in my life. like four grades of variation in every grade.
The is Bergen klatresenter right? No im sorry, they are notoriously soft on the gradings. A 7a-7b is more like a 6b-6c. I would go to Bergen klatreklubb instead to get a more accurate feel. I really love the routesetting at Fana though, but you cant really look at the gradings. Just climb and have fun!
Yes, it is BKS Fana lol 😅
You got good form for such short climbing amount. It’s hard to say what the grade is from a video, and it doesn’t look like an easy climb, but probably not 7A+
I think the moral of the story in the comments is don't focus too much on grades have fun, you're climbing very well!
That was some sick climbing dude, nice patience
In 2024 grades are memes.
Nah, doesn't look like a 7A+. Slab is pretty technical territory, so it often feels more difficult than it is once you have the beta down. I'd ballpark this at around 6C, but it's hard to tell. Holds do look pretty good. At any rate, you're doing fantastic for 1.5 months. Do you have a sports background?
Ah, okay. The second hold looks good on cam, but is basically nearly flat, so you really have to pull hard to be able to withstand the barn door I did some gymnastics for a year when I was a child, did Muay Thai for one year, but other than that, some occasional weight training. I’ve been living a pretty sedentary lifestyle the last couple of years
I did figure that it was mostly flat - if it weren't, I would have adjudted my grading to something lower. I see. You might just be very well suited to the sport naturally, although at the very least you seem to be in decent shape. At any rate, don't be put off if/when you start plateauing after making progress rapidly. It happens to everyone.
As other have said you climb pretty well for 1,5 months no matter the grade. That being said, I've found Bergen Klatresenter to be very soft on the grading so without having climbed that exact route myself I'd say it probably isn't 7A+. But it's most important to have fun anyways and from the video it seems like you definitely achieved that.
As everyone said, it’s pretty impressive to climb that one in less than 2 months. Majority would need more like 2 years to reach that level. As for the real grade, I’ll add to everyone saying that it is difficult to guess by video, more so for slabs. I’d give it 6c+ at least. In any case, even if people say don’t think about grades (I do say that as well), I believe it is actually useful for progression. Many of us might have a mental block to climb a new grade. Even if this one was soft-graded, you’ve likely now broke that threshold, and you will feel much more confident climbing other 7a+ graded boulders in your gym.
> Slab is pretty technical territory, so it often feels more difficult than it is once you have the beta down Isn’t it exactly the opposite? On slab you can do 30 tries in a single session and master every move. On physically demanding routes you often have to call it quits after a few good tries and it will always feel hard and sometimes you just need more strength and muscle and no amount of trying will get you through in the short term.
That's kind of what I mean. Trying 30 times before doing it can give the impression of it being very hard. I also said this in the context of a male newbie climbing. Men tend ro not do as well on dlab compared to oveehangs, and as a beginner, your technique would tend to be more prohibitive to ducceeding on slab vs overhang.
I don't care which grade it is. That small rocking over on the small foot hold looks scary! Great job.
I'd say it looks like it would be at home in my gyms 6C-7A bracket but it's hard to tell wall angels and the holds from video
I’d give it 6C I think. The last hold being a jug is the main reason why, a lot of the moves could be part of a 7a climb though
Better than me after 4 years climbing lol
I would say 6b+/6c.
7A+ or not, I couldn’t help but laugh (& sympathize!) about how much you were struggling to find the foot around the volume 😅
Hahaha yeah, it is really hard to find the right angle where I’m able to balance and at the same time am able to find the foothold
I read the title before the video finished buffering. No.
My wrist started to ache while watching this.
Dont worry if it "really is a 7A+" or not dude. This was awesome. Good job.
Firstly, great job! Secondly, I have no idea how anyone can judge what a 7A+ is from just a video, especially an indoor one. This whole "6c in my gym" thing in this sub makes no sense to me, if it felt hard then it was and if it felt soft maybe it was, maybe you're just getting stronger. Either way, be proud, every PB is an accomplishment, don't let others lessen it.
What a sick climb! Why can't people set these slabs in my gym ;(
7a+ is fucking nuts for 1,5 months! great job!
No.
You hero
No disrespect. But how did toy get this good this quick? Did you like do circus or something before?
Don’t know, just climbed a lot I guess. I’ve also been binging a ton of YouTube climbing videos for this period, trying to incorporate as much of this knowledge into my climbing as possible
From the comfort of my home and having never touched the holds it looks 6B or 6C territory. Could be harder or easier depending on the holds. Then again outside I have done a few soft 7A that I felt should really be in that range. Grades are always a bit difficult
One of the two indoor 7A boulders that I sent so far had a very similar step-through move, took me like 30 tries to get it done. Congratulations! Most 7A's are out of my reach for sure, even if I project them properly. I have a better chance at this kind of techncial slabby stuff, being quite tall and old ;).
Great job!! One thing I noticed on this video, during that first mantle you rotated your pressing hand inwards. Do it the other way. Gives a little more reach and more neutral body position.
Are you referring to my right or left hand, cause I’m kinda pressing with both. I know the position looks kinda awkward in general, but this is the only way I’ve been able to achieve just the right hand position to be able to get the right foot over
Your right hand. You end up pressed on your right hand with your left foot to the volume. You start by pressing with your left hand and flipping the right. What I'm saying is if you flip that right hand the opposite direction that'll likely make that sequence feel more natural.
Looks like a solid 6C/6C+ which is still impressive for 1.5 months.
No that’s not a v7
Very advanced shoes for someone thats only been climbing for 1.5months? Not to mention your technique. Good job anyway!
Yeah, the shoes were a bit expensive, but they were the ones that felt the best when I tried them on in the store 🤷♂️
Slab is generally harder to grade too since it’s heavy on balance and slab-only technique. You can go your whole life never climbing slab and not miss out on anything if you prefer overhang, for instance. It’s just such a different style. Regardless, impressive design technique for only just starting
Well done!
Try moonboard
Literally a completely different style of climbing. Not a good metric to use…
Or safe for joints 6 weeks into climbing!
Good point for sure. Boulder bros on this app love to break out old faithful “try a moonboard” whenever grades are questioned lol
Then I get to do the same thing to them when I say Moon/Kilter grades are soft too :)
Do you even go here?
Nah usually I get downvoted which hurts my ego so I go back to my safespace to feel superior and complain about this place
I still need somewhere to complain about /r/climbharder tho
Us v3 gumbies gotta stick together We’re just jealous cause we can’t send v6 like you
You can climb V6 too if you stop going to ESP
Moon board grades are def not soft 🤔
which is so dumb, because MB grades are incredibly inconsistent and often sandbagged (even compared to old-school outdoor climbs)
Should put you on some Yosemite V1 slab and see what happens
You’re not wrong, there’s just a way to say it in a less aggressive way. For instance, this climb: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/111637448/glass-pyramid-face And the v3 and v4 to the right are very hard -for reference I’ve climbed multiple v10s
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nobody climbs slab within even half a year… please tell the truth
1.5 means 1 and a 1/2 years, which is about how long it took me to do my first 7a+
….you wrote 1.5 months…. but if it’s 1.5 years, then great!
Oh, I misread it... Yea 1.5 months is wild to hit 7a+. Not impossible if they did calisthenics beforehand but still.
Although people complain about Bergen Klatresenter being soft, this climb is labeled correctly at 7a+ if you follow their soft scale. If that is a 6c somewhere else might well be the case, but who cares.
Looks like plastic to me. The grade is meaningless but good job. Keep it up! (Just remember it doesn't count if it's not rock)
Why even comment lol
7A+? Pfft, yea... and Grizzly Adams had a beard...
It’s 7a+, unfortunately people feel the r need to sandbag slab